Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Scotland - Islands and Highlands Suggestions

Scotland - Islands and Highlands Suggestions

Old Sep 25th, 2011, 05:30 PM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Scotland - Islands and Highlands Suggestions

My husband and I are planning a trip in mid-October to the UK. We start our trip in London, where we're going to rent a car and drive to the Cotswolds (2 days) followed by the Lake District (2 days).

We'll then head to Scotland, where we have about 5 days, and we're a little unsure of how to spend them. We've been to Scotland before, but only Edinburgh and Glasgow, and this trip is all about smaller locations.

We're interested in non-expert hiking/walking, beautiful Scottish scenery (craggy cliffs, coasts, moors, lochs, etc.), charming towns and pints at the local pub. From our research, it sounds like a good amount of places would fit our bill, from the Shetland Islands (far north, I know, but sounds amazing) to Argyll to Isle of Skye...etc. We live in NYC, so basically we're looking to be as far removed from that as possible (while still being within walking distance of a good pint).

Any recommendations from Fodorites to help us map out an itinerary would be greatly appreciated! As for budget, we're trying to average about $250/day for the basics - accommodation, activities and food.

Thanks so much!
kgriff01 is offline  
Old Sep 25th, 2011, 05:50 PM
  #2  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sorry, in case it's not clear - we'll have a rental car with us the whole time.
kgriff01 is offline  
Old Sep 25th, 2011, 07:04 PM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 72,633
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 7 Posts
OK -- do you have 2 nights each in the Cotswolds and Lake District or 2 'days' (meaning 3 nights)? Same for Scotland -- 5 nights or 5 days/6 nights?

This info makes a significant difference. 2 nights in the Cotswolds will give you less than 2 full days. And following that w/ 2 nights in the Lakes will give you less than 1.5 days. (Ex. Burford to Ambleside is almost 250 miles and close to a 5 hour drive). 5 nights in Highland Scotland starting from the Lake District will net about 4 days.

So clarify how many nights you are talking about. Also - what are you doing after your 5 'days' in Scotland -- flying home from GLA or EDI, returning to London or ??

The reason I'm asking for this level of detail is to help you decide how far/much you can manage.

Does your $250/£160 also include petrol? The drive from the Cotswolds to the Lakes alone will cost more than $50
janisj is online now  
Old Sep 26th, 2011, 04:20 AM
  #4  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks so much for your response. To clarify:

1. No, our budget does not include petrol. That's just going to cost what it's going to cost. We know it's much pricier in the UK than in the States, and that's fine.

2. Here's the outline of the trip thus far:

FRI: Arrive LHR @ 11am from JFK; rent car, drive to Cotswolds (Chipping Campden)

SAT: Cotswolds

SUN: Early AM drive to Lake District (Hawkshead)

MON: Lake District

TUES: Early AM drive to TBD, but we're thinking Ballachulish, perhaps...(the "plan" we worked out after posting was some amount of time split between Ballachulish/Mallaig/small isles (including Skye) and a somewhere around Inverness. Then on Saturday afternoon, we'll drive to Glasgow, return our car and catch a 9pm flight from to LHR. Leave for NYC the next morning.

Finally, please note that while we'd love to spend more time in each location, our bosses apparently require that we be in the office, so we're working with what we have. We like driving (again, we live in NYC, so the "open road" is fun to us), so we don't consider time in the car a loss, especially during the pretty drives.
kgriff01 is offline  
Old Sep 26th, 2011, 04:45 AM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I would highly recommend a walk on the West Highland Way. My family did a portion of this long-distance walk in June, and it was one of the best days we had during our week in the Highlands.

Here's a helpful website:
http://walking.visitscotland.com/wal...nd-way-rambler

We did "The Rambler" along Loch Lomond with our 8-year-old, who only "hikes" as a favor to his parents.

We rented a cottgae for the week, so I don't have any advice for you on hotels, though.
pavot is offline  
Old Sep 26th, 2011, 06:17 AM
  #6  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ooh that looks amazing - thanks, pavot! That's exactly the sort of thing we'd love to do.
kgriff01 is offline  
Old Sep 26th, 2011, 06:41 AM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We did a Mull and Skye drive last year. Click on my name for the trip report.
Lifeman is offline  
Old Sep 26th, 2011, 06:51 AM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,160
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Consider reversing your trip. The weather in Scotland in later fall is likely to be wet and windy and cold (not to speak of the rest of the year). The earlier you go the better. So you could fly on from Heathrow to Glasgow or Edinburgh or even Inverness. Recover from jetlag and pick up your rental car.

Also, using your first jet-lagged, sleepy day to get to your furthest point is an efficient use of your limited time.
Mimar is offline  
Old Sep 26th, 2011, 06:58 AM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,313
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Days will be shorter than in the summer, so your sightseeing will be less easy. I would stick to one of the more southern isles - Isle of Aran, Mull, or Skye - as they will require less travel time to get to and from. Skye would be my recommendation, but that's the farthest away. It is, however, completely worth it. I wouldn't try to fit in more than one stay - stick with one place and explore to your hearts' content. Skye has many walking areas, and there's a hiking centre in Sligachan, I believe.

There was a great lodge we stayed at http://www.the-lodge-at-edinbane.co.uk/ - 16th century hunting lodge, about 20 minutes from Portree. Remote enough to be fun, not so far away as to be inconvenient. Lovely hosts, reasonably priced, great food and pub. We were there 4 nights a couple years ago, and want to go back!

Other things to see on Skye: The Quiraing, the Old Man of Storr (a small hike through the woods up a mountain), The Fairy Glen (Hazel at the Lodge can give you directions), Three Chimneys - great food in Carbost (expensive, but worth it!), walking the mountains everywhere - red cuillins, black cuillins. Too much to mention!
GreenDragon is offline  
Old Sep 26th, 2011, 07:58 AM
  #10  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thank you Lifeman - great report. We may end up stealing a few of your ideas! Sounds like the scenery was gorgeous throughout - just what we're looking for. : )

Mimar - point taken. We're familiar with the weather in the UK and know that rain is hardly an anomaly. However, as reversing the trip would only bring us to Scotland 4 days earlier, I don't think it's worth changing our plans as flights worked out better this way. The weather will basically be luck of the draw...

GreenDragon - thank so much. I think you may be right about sticking to one place and exploring "to your heart's content." Sounds like Skye might be the answer. Maybe we can do that and then do pavot's walking tour on Saturday as we head back to Glasgow. My only concern was that there wasn't enough to "do" in Skye, but on the other hand, we don't really want to do anything beyond walk, drink pints and read our books. : )
kgriff01 is offline  
Old Sep 26th, 2011, 08:01 AM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 72,633
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 7 Posts
The days aren't short in Mid October (not as long as in June of course). In Central Scotland sunset will be around 6:15PM, exactly the same as in New York.

Now -- there are some amazing places - several already mentioned. But I'm going to be Debbie Downer here I see some real problems.

"We like driving (again, we live in NYC, so the "open road" is fun to us), so we don't consider time in the car a loss, especially during the pretty drives."

Unfortunately wide open roads is not what the UK is about. On the rural roads in the Cotswolds/Lakes/Scotland you will average maybe 35MPH

Day 1 -- have you flown over night and then driven on the 'wrong' side of the road on unfamiliar roads? It really isn't a good idea to drive much immediately off a long haul flight. LHR to Chipping Campden is only about 80 miles but easily a 2.5 hour drive. So even if you felt fresh enough to drive (not a good idea IMO), by the time you clear immigration, and get the car sorted out --you'll be on the road probably around 1:30 or 2 PM. Traffic can be heavy on a Friday afternoon so you can expect to get to CC by maybe 4:30 or 5PM. That will have been a very long travel day. Then you get Sat. to 'see' the Cotswolds' and you are off again the next morning to the Lakes.

CC to Hawkshead is about a 5 hour drive w/o stops -- so about a 6 hour drive in real life. So the same situation - you get to Ambleside around 2 or 3PM and have just the next day for the Lake District.

Hawkshead to Ballachullish will easily take 6 hours w/o any breaks/stops. So essentially it is an all day drive. That gives you Wed to Sat Afternoon for exploring Scotland. That is long enough to see one of the Isles (Mull/Iona or Skye) for 2 days and then 1.5 days to see another area. The Trossachs (Stirling, Loch Lomond, Killin, Loch Earn, etc) would be good and an easy drive to GLA

The driving on those islands is much slower BTW - lots of single track roads.
janisj is online now  
Old Sep 26th, 2011, 08:45 AM
  #12  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks janisj. Yes, we've driven on the "wrong" side, most recently in Australia where we pulled the same move. We kno roads in the UK aren't exactly the 405, nor do we want them to be - as I said, "pretty" is what we're after. Sorry if that caused confusion.

We've done diligence and researched directions and driving times, so we have that factored into our planning and are comfortable with the driving portion of the trip. Might not be for everyone, but it works for us. Still, it's good to hear feedback.

I've already mentioned this, but if we had more time to "see" everything, we would be using it. Clearly, I'd like to spend more time in each of the locations we're visiting, and by no means is spending 1.5 days in the Cotswolds "seeing" it in its entirety. Unfortunately, though, it's all we have. Some people go on day trips, so we're a step ahead of them, at any rate.

I think we may take up GreenDragon's suggestion of just staying on Skye (with maybe one night elsewhere). Seems like a lovely place, and it appears to be highly recommended by nearly everyone.

Thanks, all, for your suggestions!
kgriff01 is offline  
Old Sep 26th, 2011, 09:18 AM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 72,633
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 7 Posts
Driving in OZ is like driving in Nevada. You simply can't compare that w/ the UK (except for the driving on the left bit). Even the motorways can be slow.

When you say you've done your due diligence . . . does that mean using on-line trip/route calculators? If so, you need to add between 25% and 50% to the times, and more in some areas. The on-line calculators give you what a local who know the roads could make in best case scenarios. No accounting for traffic, roads works, sheep in the road, getting stuck behind caravans (motorhomes) farm vehicles or lorries.

And that is just for actual behind-the-wheel time. Quick Photo ops, petrol stops, add a lot more.

Every once in a long while we get a trip report that says 'We made good time. All the warnings were off base." But 90%-95% of the time, folks come back and tell us the drives took much longer than they expected.

But its your trip . . .
janisj is online now  
Old Sep 26th, 2011, 10:59 AM
  #14  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Janisj, I believe you're trying to help, but 1) it sounds like you're opposed to what we'd like to do on our trip in general and 2) I haven't heard a suggestion as to what you'd do differently.

New to the forum doesn't mean new to traveling.
kgriff01 is offline  
Old Sep 26th, 2011, 12:02 PM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,159
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
kgriff, I think it sounds fine, and I have a suggestion. Why don't you base yourselves just a wee bit further on and out.

Viamichelin has 4 1/2 hours to Ballachulish and just under 6 to Arisaig. Can I suggest you base yourself around there. the very reasonably priced Arisaig Hotel is nice, and there are some super B&Bs in the area. It's the pierhead for the ferry to the Small Isles, a hop and a skip to Mallaig whence you can get the ferry for a day trip to Skye, and you have the option of cutting across the Ardnamurchan peninsula to get the wee ferry for a day trip to Mull.

No need then to go to Inverness to get back to Glasgow, either.
sheila is offline  
Old Sep 26th, 2011, 12:35 PM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
kgriff

With less than two weeks I really would consider flying in and out of Glasgow. With your route above it is going to be late afternoon on Tuesday before make the Highlands. If you went straight into GLA on Friday morning you would be able to spend time island hopping in route that could take a circular tour of say Argyll/Bute/Mallaig/Syke/Lomond and say Stirling.

I have spent years in The Lakes and they pale in comparison to the Highlands. I really do think that the huge detour from Heathrow to CC and then The Lakes just isn't worth it.

I made similar mistakes when visiting the States. Driving 350 miles down the Smoky Mountains was one, it was just driving for drivings sake, very slowly.
humptynumpty is offline  
Old Sep 26th, 2011, 02:14 PM
  #17  
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,165
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We did a very similar trip last fall. London to Cotswolds, Lake District, up to Skye with several overnights along the way. We allowed three weeks and drove back down to Edinburgh and turned in the rental car. Be sure to not get a large car if Hawkshead is still in your plans. It literally may not fit on the road to Hawkshead-it is very narrow(dual carriage and lots of stone walls protruding into road) and the drive is a bit harrowing to say the least-DH said he will not drive there again. We stayed at the quaint Queen's Head Inn if you are looking for lodging. Dinner there was great with a good sized crowd. The school where Wordsworth attended and taught is worth a visit and of course the Beatrix Potter Farmhouse. Have a safe drive!
nini is offline  
Old Sep 27th, 2011, 11:54 AM
  #18  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi humptynumpty - the first bit of our trip is set in stone, unfortunately. We have to fly Delta and London is the only destination that works with our schedule. Thanks for the thought, though. Also - interesting point about the Lakes - I guess we shall see. At least this way we'll see both the Lakes and the Highlands so we know which to go back to next time!

(Side note about the Smoky Mountains - my family is from Asheville, North Carolina. It's absolutely beautiful, but driving the entire Blue Ridge Parkway is slooow going.)

Sheila - we checked into Arisaig, per your suggestion. I think we're sold! Looks amazing and like it'd be the perfect stepping stone to everything we'd want to do. We might stay there one night and somewhere on Skye for two (or vice versa).

nini - good tip about the car. Getting wedged between ancient old buildings isn't on our itinerary, so we'll note that!

Thanks again, all. Much appreciated!
kgriff01 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattchoo
Europe
28
Mar 19th, 2017 08:02 PM
ktstel
Europe
12
Feb 24th, 2017 03:17 PM
elizabethG
Europe
38
Dec 4th, 2014 01:21 PM
laquebecoise
Europe
18
Apr 11th, 2014 03:55 AM
jdkimball
Europe
21
Apr 24th, 2009 04:22 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -