Scotland: Highlights, Islands, and...Covid
Jun 14th, 2022, 10:00 PM
#21
Terrific report and loved the photos.
Even before paging down to the photos I knew from the location/description that the castle across the muddy field was Kilchurn . . . and yes it definitely is. It is one of my favorites.
A wee baby heilan coo
Even before paging down to the photos I knew from the location/description that the castle across the muddy field was Kilchurn . . . and yes it definitely is. It is one of my favorites.
A wee baby heilan coo
Jun 15th, 2022, 03:59 AM
#22
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Ugh, I just spent an hour writing up the next day of the trip and it all just disappeared as I was uploading photos! (Where did the autosaved version go?!) I'm trying not to drag this out too long, but the next installment will have to wait until I can retype it all tonight.
@janisj - I knew someone would know the name of that castle!
@janisj - I knew someone would know the name of that castle!
Jun 15th, 2022, 05:55 AM
#23
I know that is frustrating and it's happened to me more times than I can count . . . but a hint when the site is being 'twitchy', it helps to type long entries like Trip Reports into word processing and then copy/paste. Then add photos as a separate post.
Jun 15th, 2022, 01:09 PM
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That is what I do all the time! I do not type my reports directly into Fodors. I type them in Word, save them of course, and then copy and paste. And upload photos separately.
Jun 15th, 2022, 05:05 PM
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@janisj, @ KarenWoo - Yes, I've typed out trip reports in Word before and then copied and pasted them over. I'll have to start doing that again now.
@maitaitom - St. Conan's is a gem! I wish I'd taken better photos there.
@progol, @willowjane, @tripplanner001 - Thanks for following along!
@maitaitom - St. Conan's is a gem! I wish I'd taken better photos there.
@progol, @willowjane, @tripplanner001 - Thanks for following along!
Jun 15th, 2022, 05:57 PM
#32
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Day 4
The next day was my favorite of the entire trip. A lot of people come to Scotland to see the green of the highlands, but I’d actually come most excited about the islands. I remember a scene in the first season of The Crown where the Queen Mother goes to Scotland and walks along the coast on a wind-whipping, gloomy day. I wanted that experience of dramatic coastline, waves crashing, wind in my hair – beautiful scenery but more wild than a tropical beach. I’m a rather contained person who doesn’t feel the need to express my emotions in big dramatic ways, but there’s something so cathartic about being out in wild, dramatic nature.
I had to get up early for our 6:30am departure and ferry to Mull. The morning was chilly, windy, and rainy, so I spent the 45-minute ferry ride inside eating the take-away breakfast my B&B host had packed. Once on the Isle of Mull, we started with a drive from the east to the southwest part of the island. Overcast skies turned into a storm, but the rain passed quickly, and we even saw a rainbow when the sun managed to break through a spot in the clouds. To me Mull felt wild and remote. We saw a good portion of it by bus but had little time for feet on the ground there. If I ever return to Scotland I’d love to return to Mull and spend several days hiking with evenings in front of a fire at one of the cute, fairly isolated guesthouses we passed.
We arrived in Fionnphort to take the ferry to the island of Iona. Gill let us know that we’d have about three hours on our own to explore the island. One of the other women in the group and I looked at each other like “What are we going to do for three whole hours in this rainy, chilly weather?!” On the ferry I found a radiator and pressed myself up against it, trying to soak in as much warmth as possible.
In the short 10-15 minutes it took to get to Iona the weather improved slightly, and I was immediately taken in by the beautiful white sand and light blue water of the beach. I spent a good twenty minutes photographing the beach from all angles and making friends with a cranky old calico (actually a tortie, but the alliteration of calico sounds better).
I finally got a move on and spent some time at the ruins of the Iona Nunnery and then on to Iona Abbey. Iona is known as the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland because the monk St. Columba traveled to the island from Ireland in the 6th century and introduced Christianity to the Picts. The current abbey structure is a restoration of a medieval abbey that is still in use today. I paid the entrance fee to the site and had the place pretty much to myself. My favorite part were the large stone crosses in front of the abbey. I was happy to pay the entrance fee to support the economy of the island, but the best parts, in my opinion, were the views, which you can easily get without actually entering the abbey site.
Once I explored the abbey, I set off walking down the road, pulling the hood of my jacket off and on again as the weather changed from rain to sun what seemed like every 15 minutes or so. I saw green fields and white farmhouses, the blue of the ocean, and lots of sheep. It was perfect! This was one of the few opportunities we had on the tour to have significant time to explore a place, and I loved every second of it. What I feared would be a long, cold three hours turned into a period of soul-filling beauty and freedom that passed way too quickly.
With just about 30 minutes before we were to meet for the ferry back to Mull, I stopped in for lunch at the Argyll Hotel, one of Gill’s recommendations. They have a garden out behind the hotel where they grow herbs and vegetables. I had a beetroot and hummus sandwich on the most delicious bread. I sat in the sunroom, which had a gorgeous view out to the sun shining on bright aqua water.
As the ferry pulled away from the shore, I reluctantly said goodbye to Iona. Originally a boat trip out to Staffa had also been planned for this day, but it was cancelled due to weather. I’m sure that would have been a highlight, but I had such a good experience exploring Iona that I’m not at all disappointed with the way the day turned out.
Once back on Mull, we took another – different – scenic drive along the southern coast back to the ferry at Craignure. Gill provided some really interesting commentary on the use of Gaelic and other topics related to Iona, Mull, and Scotland.
I considered going to Coriander again for dinner that night – the food was that good – but I still had a sandwich from the morning’s breakfast as well as some other snacks that needed to be eaten up, so I opted instead to just stay at my B&B and relax for the evening.
Isle of Mull
Rainbow on Mull
Iona in the morning
Iona in the morning
A new feline friend
Iona Nunnery
Iona Abbey
Stone cross at Iona Abbey
Stone cross at Iona Abbey
Iona
Iona
Iona
View of Iona from the ferry
Isle of Mull
Isle of Mull
Oban
The next day was my favorite of the entire trip. A lot of people come to Scotland to see the green of the highlands, but I’d actually come most excited about the islands. I remember a scene in the first season of The Crown where the Queen Mother goes to Scotland and walks along the coast on a wind-whipping, gloomy day. I wanted that experience of dramatic coastline, waves crashing, wind in my hair – beautiful scenery but more wild than a tropical beach. I’m a rather contained person who doesn’t feel the need to express my emotions in big dramatic ways, but there’s something so cathartic about being out in wild, dramatic nature.
I had to get up early for our 6:30am departure and ferry to Mull. The morning was chilly, windy, and rainy, so I spent the 45-minute ferry ride inside eating the take-away breakfast my B&B host had packed. Once on the Isle of Mull, we started with a drive from the east to the southwest part of the island. Overcast skies turned into a storm, but the rain passed quickly, and we even saw a rainbow when the sun managed to break through a spot in the clouds. To me Mull felt wild and remote. We saw a good portion of it by bus but had little time for feet on the ground there. If I ever return to Scotland I’d love to return to Mull and spend several days hiking with evenings in front of a fire at one of the cute, fairly isolated guesthouses we passed.
We arrived in Fionnphort to take the ferry to the island of Iona. Gill let us know that we’d have about three hours on our own to explore the island. One of the other women in the group and I looked at each other like “What are we going to do for three whole hours in this rainy, chilly weather?!” On the ferry I found a radiator and pressed myself up against it, trying to soak in as much warmth as possible.
In the short 10-15 minutes it took to get to Iona the weather improved slightly, and I was immediately taken in by the beautiful white sand and light blue water of the beach. I spent a good twenty minutes photographing the beach from all angles and making friends with a cranky old calico (actually a tortie, but the alliteration of calico sounds better).
I finally got a move on and spent some time at the ruins of the Iona Nunnery and then on to Iona Abbey. Iona is known as the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland because the monk St. Columba traveled to the island from Ireland in the 6th century and introduced Christianity to the Picts. The current abbey structure is a restoration of a medieval abbey that is still in use today. I paid the entrance fee to the site and had the place pretty much to myself. My favorite part were the large stone crosses in front of the abbey. I was happy to pay the entrance fee to support the economy of the island, but the best parts, in my opinion, were the views, which you can easily get without actually entering the abbey site.
Once I explored the abbey, I set off walking down the road, pulling the hood of my jacket off and on again as the weather changed from rain to sun what seemed like every 15 minutes or so. I saw green fields and white farmhouses, the blue of the ocean, and lots of sheep. It was perfect! This was one of the few opportunities we had on the tour to have significant time to explore a place, and I loved every second of it. What I feared would be a long, cold three hours turned into a period of soul-filling beauty and freedom that passed way too quickly.
With just about 30 minutes before we were to meet for the ferry back to Mull, I stopped in for lunch at the Argyll Hotel, one of Gill’s recommendations. They have a garden out behind the hotel where they grow herbs and vegetables. I had a beetroot and hummus sandwich on the most delicious bread. I sat in the sunroom, which had a gorgeous view out to the sun shining on bright aqua water.
As the ferry pulled away from the shore, I reluctantly said goodbye to Iona. Originally a boat trip out to Staffa had also been planned for this day, but it was cancelled due to weather. I’m sure that would have been a highlight, but I had such a good experience exploring Iona that I’m not at all disappointed with the way the day turned out.
Once back on Mull, we took another – different – scenic drive along the southern coast back to the ferry at Craignure. Gill provided some really interesting commentary on the use of Gaelic and other topics related to Iona, Mull, and Scotland.
I considered going to Coriander again for dinner that night – the food was that good – but I still had a sandwich from the morning’s breakfast as well as some other snacks that needed to be eaten up, so I opted instead to just stay at my B&B and relax for the evening.
Isle of Mull
Rainbow on Mull
Iona in the morning
Iona in the morning
A new feline friend
Iona Nunnery
Iona Abbey
Stone cross at Iona Abbey
Stone cross at Iona Abbey
Iona
Iona
Iona
View of Iona from the ferry
Isle of Mull
Isle of Mull
Oban
Jun 15th, 2022, 07:00 PM
#33
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Day 5
Before we said goodbye to Oban we visited McCaig’s folly, a colosseum-like structure commissioned by a wealthy banker in the late nineteenth century, both as a monument to his family and a source of work for local tradesmen. This is worth a visit for the beautiful views is provides of Oban and the sea.
We hit the road and shortly turned off onto a super narrow, bumpy path that led to Castle Stalker, or at least the shore in front of Castle Stalker. This is a private castle (still in use as a non-primary residence) built on a small island. A little way up the main road we stopped at a roadside café and giftshop for hot-out-of-the-oven scones with jam and cream. I tested both jam + cream and cream + jam and decided that jam and then cream is the way to go for me. I love that Rabbies gives its tour guides freedom to make stops that they think the group will enjoy.
Our next stop was Glen Coe, famous for both its geological history as well as the 1692 massacre. It was interesting to learn that the massacre is so greatly remembered because of the betrayal of highland hospitality and not just the fact that people were killed. It was cold and rainy and windy while we were there, so while I found the glen to be pretty, it didn’t really stand above other impressive sights we’d been seeing. Perhaps if I’d been on my own and waited it out until the rain stopped and the weather was better, I would have been more impressed. We stopped at the visitor’s center, and I caught the end of a film about the massacre. Even more interesting to me was the traditional creel house that had recently been built using the same techniques and materials that would have been used to build these houses centuries ago. Some of the others on the tour ate lunch in the café at the visitor’s center, but the breakfast at my B&B plus the scone earlier in the day had filled me up, so I didn’t eat a proper lunch on this day.
After Glen Coe we were back on the road. We made a quick stop at Chocolates of Glenshiel, a specialty chocolate brand and café started several years ago by a 16-year-old boy. I picked up a haggis spice chocolate bar. It was really, really good, so much so that I went looking for more of this chocolate to take home later in the trip. I had imagined that the spices in haggis would be something garlic or oniony, but in fact the spices in the chocolate are pepper, nutmeg, and mace.
We drove through the beautiful Glenelg, down to a spot where a little community-run ferry took us and our minibus across to the Isle of Skye. There were two working border collies – Spot and Kim – who helped to make sure everyone was on board; they were really fun to watch!
Gill seemed to have contacts and friends everywhere we went! I could tell she has a passion for supporting local businesses – both the chocolate shop and the ferry being two examples.
We drove across a small portion of Skye before heading back over the bridge to the mainland and our lodgings in Plockton. I’ll have lots more to say about Plockton later; this tiny, idyllic village was another highlight of the trip. My lodgings for the next two nights were at the Hill View B&B. This was the B&B with the least sophisticated décor, but the wifi and shower were both great and the host could easily be a character in one of those cozy British mystery series. (Yes, I've heard that the show Hamish Macbeth was filmed in Plockton, but I haven't had a chance to watch it yet.)
Since dining options in Plockton are quite limited, Gill had booked a table for our whole group at the Plockton Inn. I had a cheese and leek tart, which came with salad and fries, and sticky toffee pudding for dessert. The food was just okay and cost a lot for what I got, but I enjoyed our group, so the company was good.
McCaig's Folly
View of Oban from McCaig's Folly
Pretty house near McCaig's Folly
Castle Stalker. Notice the Ukrainian flag flying from the roof. I saw lots of Ukrainian flags and support for Ukraine in Scotland.
Glen Coe
Glen Coe
View of the Creel house from the visitor's center
Creel house
Glenelg Ferry
Plockton
Plockton
Plockton
Plockton sunset
Before we said goodbye to Oban we visited McCaig’s folly, a colosseum-like structure commissioned by a wealthy banker in the late nineteenth century, both as a monument to his family and a source of work for local tradesmen. This is worth a visit for the beautiful views is provides of Oban and the sea.
We hit the road and shortly turned off onto a super narrow, bumpy path that led to Castle Stalker, or at least the shore in front of Castle Stalker. This is a private castle (still in use as a non-primary residence) built on a small island. A little way up the main road we stopped at a roadside café and giftshop for hot-out-of-the-oven scones with jam and cream. I tested both jam + cream and cream + jam and decided that jam and then cream is the way to go for me. I love that Rabbies gives its tour guides freedom to make stops that they think the group will enjoy.
Our next stop was Glen Coe, famous for both its geological history as well as the 1692 massacre. It was interesting to learn that the massacre is so greatly remembered because of the betrayal of highland hospitality and not just the fact that people were killed. It was cold and rainy and windy while we were there, so while I found the glen to be pretty, it didn’t really stand above other impressive sights we’d been seeing. Perhaps if I’d been on my own and waited it out until the rain stopped and the weather was better, I would have been more impressed. We stopped at the visitor’s center, and I caught the end of a film about the massacre. Even more interesting to me was the traditional creel house that had recently been built using the same techniques and materials that would have been used to build these houses centuries ago. Some of the others on the tour ate lunch in the café at the visitor’s center, but the breakfast at my B&B plus the scone earlier in the day had filled me up, so I didn’t eat a proper lunch on this day.
After Glen Coe we were back on the road. We made a quick stop at Chocolates of Glenshiel, a specialty chocolate brand and café started several years ago by a 16-year-old boy. I picked up a haggis spice chocolate bar. It was really, really good, so much so that I went looking for more of this chocolate to take home later in the trip. I had imagined that the spices in haggis would be something garlic or oniony, but in fact the spices in the chocolate are pepper, nutmeg, and mace.
We drove through the beautiful Glenelg, down to a spot where a little community-run ferry took us and our minibus across to the Isle of Skye. There were two working border collies – Spot and Kim – who helped to make sure everyone was on board; they were really fun to watch!
Gill seemed to have contacts and friends everywhere we went! I could tell she has a passion for supporting local businesses – both the chocolate shop and the ferry being two examples.
We drove across a small portion of Skye before heading back over the bridge to the mainland and our lodgings in Plockton. I’ll have lots more to say about Plockton later; this tiny, idyllic village was another highlight of the trip. My lodgings for the next two nights were at the Hill View B&B. This was the B&B with the least sophisticated décor, but the wifi and shower were both great and the host could easily be a character in one of those cozy British mystery series. (Yes, I've heard that the show Hamish Macbeth was filmed in Plockton, but I haven't had a chance to watch it yet.)
Since dining options in Plockton are quite limited, Gill had booked a table for our whole group at the Plockton Inn. I had a cheese and leek tart, which came with salad and fries, and sticky toffee pudding for dessert. The food was just okay and cost a lot for what I got, but I enjoyed our group, so the company was good.
McCaig's Folly
View of Oban from McCaig's Folly
Pretty house near McCaig's Folly
Castle Stalker. Notice the Ukrainian flag flying from the roof. I saw lots of Ukrainian flags and support for Ukraine in Scotland.
Glen Coe
Glen Coe
View of the Creel house from the visitor's center
Creel house
Glenelg Ferry
Plockton
Plockton
Plockton
Plockton sunset
Jun 16th, 2022, 07:44 PM
#34
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Day 6
Today was our Isle of Skye day. After crossing the bridge onto the island, we made a stop at the grocery store in Broadford so that we could pick up sandwiches and snacks to eat later for lunch. I also met Jeannie, a friendly black cat who has adopted a group of tourist/artisan shops as her home.
As we started our drive north, we saw that a number of people had stopped because a group of highland cows were right up near the road. We also stopped, and I got the close-up photos that I was praying (but not really expecting) to get. I learned that originally highland cows were black and as small as sheep.
Next we stopped at Sligachan, an area with a picturesque stone bridge and great views of the Black Cuillen mountain range. Continuing on, we saw the Old Man of Storr and the waterfall at Kilt Rock. Next we stopped at Staffin Bay, a beach where dinosaur footprints were discovered in 2002. I have to admit, the dinosaur prints were impressive. I don’t know how people identified these as actual dinosaur footprints, rather than just the way rocks have come together, but apparently the experts have confirmed that these are dinosaur footprints.
The next stop, the Quiraing, was by far the most impressive stop of the day. I’ve heard that getting up there on the narrow, one-lane mountain road can be a nightmare in the summer, but I totally see why this is a don’t-miss spot. The view from this high point really highlights the majesty of Skye. We were lucky in that, while it was overcast all day, it was still relatively clear. Skye can be very misty, so we were fortunate to have good visibility.
We made some additional stops coming around the north point of the island and back down to Portree. I didn’t note them down because none of them were that interesting to me. I had a pleasant day on Skye, but I didn’t fall in love with it or feel awed the way so many others seem to, and I think that’s because driving around making short stops is not the ideal way to experience Skye. I wish that I’d had time to do the Quiraing walk, hike up to the Old Man of Storr, and walk out to the Fairy Pools. (I understand that with one day there is only so much I could have done, but I also wonder about what decisions were made about our route and stops due to mobility and the age of our group.) For most sites, the disadvantages of being on a tour were balanced or outweighed by the positives, but for Skye I feel like I would have had a much better experience had I been able focus on fewer sites and have my feet on the ground more. Also, while the weather wasn’t bad, I think I would have thought Skye more spectacular had there been some sun making all of the colors of the island more vibrant.
We finished the day off in Portree. We arrived just before most of the shops closed, so I really didn’t have time to do much besides photograph the line of shops and hotels on the water (which didn’t really turn out well due to the dull weather) and find a place to eat. A lot of the restaurants were either too busy or closed due to staffing shortages and reduced schedules, so I ended up at another Indian restaurant. No problem, I love Indian food, and my meal at this one (I didn’t note the name) was really good.
Once back in Plockton, I considered staying out and about to see the sunset, but the sun sets so late at this time of year that I decided instead to call it a night and get up early to photograph the little town in the morning light. That turned out to be a great decision!
The Black Cuillens
Hairy coo!
Up close and personal (there was a fence between me and the cows)
Highland cow family
View of the Old Man of Storr
Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls
Near Kilt Rock
I love the white houses against all of the green
Dinosaur footprint
Quiraing
Quiraing
Quiraing
Portree
Today was our Isle of Skye day. After crossing the bridge onto the island, we made a stop at the grocery store in Broadford so that we could pick up sandwiches and snacks to eat later for lunch. I also met Jeannie, a friendly black cat who has adopted a group of tourist/artisan shops as her home.
As we started our drive north, we saw that a number of people had stopped because a group of highland cows were right up near the road. We also stopped, and I got the close-up photos that I was praying (but not really expecting) to get. I learned that originally highland cows were black and as small as sheep.
Next we stopped at Sligachan, an area with a picturesque stone bridge and great views of the Black Cuillen mountain range. Continuing on, we saw the Old Man of Storr and the waterfall at Kilt Rock. Next we stopped at Staffin Bay, a beach where dinosaur footprints were discovered in 2002. I have to admit, the dinosaur prints were impressive. I don’t know how people identified these as actual dinosaur footprints, rather than just the way rocks have come together, but apparently the experts have confirmed that these are dinosaur footprints.
The next stop, the Quiraing, was by far the most impressive stop of the day. I’ve heard that getting up there on the narrow, one-lane mountain road can be a nightmare in the summer, but I totally see why this is a don’t-miss spot. The view from this high point really highlights the majesty of Skye. We were lucky in that, while it was overcast all day, it was still relatively clear. Skye can be very misty, so we were fortunate to have good visibility.
We made some additional stops coming around the north point of the island and back down to Portree. I didn’t note them down because none of them were that interesting to me. I had a pleasant day on Skye, but I didn’t fall in love with it or feel awed the way so many others seem to, and I think that’s because driving around making short stops is not the ideal way to experience Skye. I wish that I’d had time to do the Quiraing walk, hike up to the Old Man of Storr, and walk out to the Fairy Pools. (I understand that with one day there is only so much I could have done, but I also wonder about what decisions were made about our route and stops due to mobility and the age of our group.) For most sites, the disadvantages of being on a tour were balanced or outweighed by the positives, but for Skye I feel like I would have had a much better experience had I been able focus on fewer sites and have my feet on the ground more. Also, while the weather wasn’t bad, I think I would have thought Skye more spectacular had there been some sun making all of the colors of the island more vibrant.
We finished the day off in Portree. We arrived just before most of the shops closed, so I really didn’t have time to do much besides photograph the line of shops and hotels on the water (which didn’t really turn out well due to the dull weather) and find a place to eat. A lot of the restaurants were either too busy or closed due to staffing shortages and reduced schedules, so I ended up at another Indian restaurant. No problem, I love Indian food, and my meal at this one (I didn’t note the name) was really good.
Once back in Plockton, I considered staying out and about to see the sunset, but the sun sets so late at this time of year that I decided instead to call it a night and get up early to photograph the little town in the morning light. That turned out to be a great decision!
The Black Cuillens
Hairy coo!
Up close and personal (there was a fence between me and the cows)
Highland cow family
View of the Old Man of Storr
Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls
Near Kilt Rock
I love the white houses against all of the green
Dinosaur footprint
Quiraing
Quiraing
Quiraing
Portree
Last edited by memejs; Jun 16th, 2022 at 08:04 PM.
Jun 16th, 2022, 08:00 PM
#35
Wonderful photos! 
Actually you were really lucky with the weather. They don't call it the "misty Isle" for nothin'. It was my third visit to Skye before I saw a darned thing. But my oh my (!) that 3rd time was glorious. I think with just one day on the island that was a terrific itinerary. Without staying overnight (two nights really) it is hard to see/do more than what you managed. The driving on most parts of Skye is really REALLY slow.
One teensy tiny correction . . . it isn'tBroadmoor. . . . the village is Broadford
Actually you were really lucky with the weather. They don't call it the "misty Isle" for nothin'. It was my third visit to Skye before I saw a darned thing. But my oh my (!) that 3rd time was glorious. I think with just one day on the island that was a terrific itinerary. Without staying overnight (two nights really) it is hard to see/do more than what you managed. The driving on most parts of Skye is really REALLY slow.
One teensy tiny correction . . . it isn't
Jun 16th, 2022, 08:07 PM
#36
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@janisj - Thanks, I made that correction. It's good to know that the weather and itinerary were good. I guess I'm just a victim of seeing too many photos with perfect, clear, golden hour weather (or photoshopped weather!). I always have to remind myself that I can't be at every site at golden hour or sunset.
Jun 17th, 2022, 06:05 AM
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Your pictures are drool worthy, just stunning!
Jun 17th, 2022, 06:30 AM
#40
I'm still following this love your photos! And I believe that much of Scotland is especially beautiful because of the mist, which lends a moody, mystical (mist-ical?) atmosphere to the landscape. I've been on Skye several times and it's almost always been shrouded in mist with the occasional sun bursting through but it's always been a magical place to me.
