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Scandinavia Trip in Progress: Copenhagen, Stockholm, Oslo and the Western Fjords

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Scandinavia Trip in Progress: Copenhagen, Stockholm, Oslo and the Western Fjords

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Old May 19th, 2022, 07:11 AM
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I think I would agree that I also enjoyed Stockholm a bit more than Copenhagen, but both are really lovely. My trip to the Vasa was a really highlight of my Stockholm trip even 20 years later!
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Old May 19th, 2022, 09:06 AM
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Russ, you are doing a wonderful job of finding and photoing all the best stuff in these lovely cities. Thanks so much for bringing back so many wonderful memories.

On the debate between Stockholm and Copenhagen, I differ with the prevailing opinion so far. Somehow I felt that Stockholm takes itself more seriously than Copenhagen which seems to me more playful and fun. Both are wonderful but if I were to pick one to live in, it would definitely be Copenhagen. I find myself swaying in time with the music from Wonderful, Wonderful Copenhagen just thinking about it.
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Old May 19th, 2022, 03:21 PM
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Russ and thursday, I am interested in your impressions of Skansen; have either of you been to the Enkhuizen Zuizerdeemuseum, and how does it compare? Thank you.
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Old May 19th, 2022, 03:35 PM
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The comparisons between Copenhagen and Stockholm are interesting. I've only been to Copenhagen, which I've loved. Cannot wait to get to Stockholm some day.
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Old May 19th, 2022, 06:40 PM
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Yes, I've been to Enkhuizen, but it was back in 2003, whereas Skansen was in 2015, and my memory isn't what it was. However, if I have to pick one, it would be Enkhuizen. But the Oslo museum would beat both. See: https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...navia-in-oslo/

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Old May 19th, 2022, 08:12 PM
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Thanks for your report - I'm really enjoying the pictures. You make me realise just how little of Copenhagen I saw (compared to you) on my short stay there a few years back.

Stockholm - I've been there a few times but haven't seen the Millesgĺrden Museum - looks like it's worthwhile. I went to the Maritime museum, which isn't worthwhile. Skansen - I recall thinking it was ho-hum, quite a few years ago.
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Old May 19th, 2022, 09:05 PM
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Wonderful update, so interesting.
And a coincidental capture of the aeroplane between the hands of the ‘flying’ statue, so cool.
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Old May 20th, 2022, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Iwan2go
Russ and thursday, I am interested in your impressions of Skansen; have either of you been to the Enkhuizen Zuizerdeemuseum, and how does it compare? Thank you.
I’m afraid I have not been to Enkhuizen Zuizerdeemuseum
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Old May 20th, 2022, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Adelaidean
Wonderful update, so interesting.
And a coincidental capture of the aeroplane between the hands of the ‘flying’ statue, so cool.
Im glad you noticed that. I meant to caption it with some silly comment but forgot. Oh well 🤷‍♂️

Last edited by russ_in_LA; May 20th, 2022 at 12:11 PM.
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Old May 20th, 2022, 05:55 PM
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Our visit to Millesgarden was a highlight for us in Stockholm too. The sculptures are so whimsical. We had a nice lunch outside of the cafe there too.
We had been to an historical village in Oslo with traditional buildings so skipped Skansen.
I hope you toured City Hall. Thankfully, our Swedish friends gave us a “must see” list for Stockholm.
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Old May 20th, 2022, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by HappyTrvlr
Our visit to Millesgarden was a highlight for us in Stockholm too. The sculptures are so whimsical. We had a nice lunch outside of the cafe there too.
We had been to an historical village in Oslo with traditional buildings so skipped Skansen.
I hope you toured City Hall. Thankfully, our Swedish friends gave us a “must see” list for Stockholm.
OMG! I just googled the city hall interior. I can’t believe we missed that!! Looks incredible. Next time I guess.
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Old May 21st, 2022, 12:15 PM
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Oslo’s appeal took its time revealing itself. Our AirBnB was located in a brand new section of apartment buildings called Sřrenga, located on a man-made peninsula constructed on former docks just south of the central train station. What this area lacks in old world charm it makes up for in convenience. There are dozens of restaurants with outdoor seating, and we were fortunate to have two full days of absolutely gorgeous sunny days of about 65°F/18°C.

The area is also super convenient to the new Munch museum and the blindingly white, modern Opera House, which are accessed via a convenient foot-bridge. This was meant to be temporary during the construction of the residential area, but has become so popular with the locals they have decided to keep it for the time being.

The area also has a lot of out door recreational spaces. There are small man-made beaches, wooden platforms for sunning, and even a saltwater “swimming pool”, which is a rectangular frame constructed in the sea, with floating cords for creating lanes.

What I found most interesting was that a series of temporary saunas have been set up along the waters edge, or on currently undeveloped land next to the museum and opera house. These are wooden shacks were you can warmup in the dry-heat of the sauna, and then get your blood racing by jumping into the icy-cold water of the Oslofjord. Watching the locals do this I thought they were crazy, but they seemed to really enjoy it. Afterwards, they would stand around in their swimsuits, socializing with a beer in hand and eating something cooked on the smoking grills that they all seemed to have.

Something we realized the first night, as we were planning our next two days, was that our second full day would fall on May 17th, the Norwegian National holiday commemorating the establishment of their constitution. As a result of holiday closures, all the things we wanted to do over two days would now have to be condensed into one very full day.

The next day, we started with the Munch Museum, which has 7 floors of artwork, but it’s not too jammed packed to be overwhelming. We noted that they did not have any painted versions of “The Scream” on display, but there was a wood block print and a lithograph version. Our intent was to see the more renown versions at the new National Museum, but we found out that it isn’t due to open until June 11.

After a quick sushi lunch nearby, we walked to the Opera House. We did not tour the interior, but the roof is accessible to the general public via a white stone ramp which starts at ground level and just becomes the roof. While walking up we focused on not tripping and sliding back down. I can only imagine walking it in the rain! But the views were wonderful from up there.

Illogically, from an efficiency standpoint, but necessary, due to the holiday closures the next day, we then headed for the Bygdřy peninsula, a green, attractive suburb to the west of the center, and the location of another smattering of museums. The three we had in our sights were the Kon-Tiki Museum, the Fram Museum and the Viking Ship Museum. Unfortunately, the Viking Ship Museum is closed for renovation until 2025, but we loved the Kon-Tiki museum, which documents the voyage that Norwegian explorer Thor Heyerdahl, and his crew, took from Peru to the middle of the South Pacific, on a 18 x 45 ft balsawood raft, to demonstrate that the Polynesian islands could have been populated through migration from South America. It was a crazy endeavor, and even more so once you see the actual raft the 6 men (and a parrot) lived on for the 101 days of the expedition. Oh, and by the way, 5 of the 6 people had never sailed a boat before!

The Fram museum documents a different journey all together, this time by Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen, and crew, to be the first to the South Pole. The exhibit features the actual boat, which you can board and wander around to get an idea of how these men lived.

After the museums, we took a ferry back to central Oslo, which docked right in front of the City Hall (of which I just found out I should have gone inside). The area just to the west was also comprised of modern buildings which replaced working docks, this time in the early 2000’s. At the end of the promenade, looking like a giant wing, is the Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art, designed by Renzo Piano. Unfortunately the museum is closed on Monday’s, but the sculpture park was open. It was nice place to wander around and the park included one statue from Louise Bourgeois entitled, “Eyes”, but you’ll have to judge for yourself if she was being litteral or ironic with that title.

We had heard that, due to the national holiday, the area around the royal palace and downtown would be mobbed, so we decided to go have a look while they were relatively empty. The palace is set in an attractive park, and the exterior looks palatial enough, in a not-too-showy sort of way.

From the Palace we walked downtown along the main shopping street, Karl Johan’s Gate, and finally found a street lined with collection of buildings from before the 20th century, which included landmarks such as the National Theater, the Parliament building and the Oslo Cathedral.

The street ends at the train station, and from there it was a five minute stroll back to the Opera House and a hop, skip and a jump to our apartment. It was a very busy yet satisfying day, but we wondered what the the national holiday had in store for us the next day.



Opera House

Munch Museum

Munch Museum - The Scream

Munch Museum

Munch Museum

View from Munch Museum of new “Barcode” business and residential district.

“Swimming pool” in the Oslofjord

Sunning decks along side the Oslofjord

Saunas along side the Oslofjord

Saunas along side the Oslofjord

The actual Kon-Tiki balsa wood raft

This thing sailed 4300 miles in the open ocean

City Hall

“Eyes” by Louise Bourgeois

Royal Palace

In front of the national theater

The Faculty of Law building of the University of Oslo

Parliament Building

Oslo Cathedral

Former cathedral buildings, now shops and restaurants



Last edited by russ_in_LA; May 21st, 2022 at 12:26 PM.
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Old May 23rd, 2022, 01:56 PM
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We realized that our second day in Oslo was going to be different the second we walked out of our apartment door. Already, at 10:00 in the morning, parties were in full force on many balconies and terraces of our apartment building.

We had decided to spend the morning at Vigeland Sculpture Park. Although it might have been fun to join in the festivities, we thought we would capitalize on a moment when the park would more likely be empty.

While walking to the bus stop, we noticed that the vast majority of girls and women on the streets were dressed in traditional Norwegian attire for the holiday, as well as a sizable minority of boys and men. The majority of men were decked out in a “uniform” of dark suit, white shirt, tie, and ribbon in the national colors pinned to their jackets. The busses were disgorging hundreds of happy holiday makers, waving small Norwegian flags, and all heading downtown to see the parade, and perhaps to see and the King and Queen wave from the royal palace.

When we arrived at Frogner Park, the larger park within which the sculpture park is located, we were happy to see families and friends setting up picnics, each group getting ready to spend the holiday in their own ways.

The sculpture park consists primarily of a circular assembly of sculptures, with a large monolith in the center. The statues depict men, women and children, and represent the various stages of life, from birth, through childhood and young adulthood, old age and eventually death. I found it oddly moving. Vigeland said that he had rendered the figures naked so that they would remain timeless.

The exact meaning of the monolith in the center is a bit harder to decider. According to the Vigeland Museum website:

“The Monolith stands at the highest point in Vigeland Park, and measures 17 meters above ground. The sculpture was carved out of one stone block during the late 1920s.

The sculpture depicts 121 human figures clinging and floating together. There's women and men of different ages, and the top of the Monolith is crowned with children.

The sculpture has been interpreted as a kind of vision of resurrection, and our longing and striving for spirituality.”

The other area with a high concentration of sculptures is the bridge leading into the park. This is also lined with similarly naked people in all walks of life, but this time in bronze, and mostly solo or in pairs.

After the sculpture park, we strolled over to the nearby Manor House restaurant and we’re lucky enough to score a table for lunch, as it was otherwise sold out. The terrace was festively decorated with Norwegian flags for the holiday, and it was so wonderful to sit outside in the sun with all the other guests in their traditional clothes. We were made to feel very welcome, even though we were among the very few non-Norwegians there. The excitement was contagious, and it made for a very fun meal.

Later in the afternoon, we decided to visit the Akershus Fortress, which sits on a small peninsula between the Opera and City Hall. Originally built in the 13th century, the park-like grounds were open for the holiday. Like everywhere else, it was filled with picnickers in costume, people taking a stroll eating an ice cream or enjoying the view of the harbor area below. There was even live music. The area around the fort seemed to have the oldest buildings we had come across yet, many of them now used as pubs and restaurants. It felt like we had finally found the historic heart of the city.

So that wraps up Oslo. It may not have been as immediately appealing as Stockholm or Copenhagen when we first arrived, but it won us over with the warmth of its people, some excellent museums and parks, a surprise festival, and the unexpectedly fantastic weather!

Next up: Bergen and the Fjords




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Last edited by russ_in_LA; May 23rd, 2022 at 02:09 PM.
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Old May 23rd, 2022, 02:54 PM
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Oslo looks beautiful. Also love the traditional costumes.
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Old May 23rd, 2022, 05:24 PM
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We had no expectations for Oslo and also fell in love with it. You certainly were lucky to be able to observe a national holiday, Norwegian dress and all!
You’ll have to return when the Viking Ship Museum reopens.
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Old May 23rd, 2022, 09:03 PM
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How fantastic to see so many locals in traditional clothing.

We passed through Oslo (headed for Flam) about 35 years ago, thought we’d get back and explore further but never did.
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Old May 24th, 2022, 07:58 AM
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Thanks You Guys

Boy am I coming to this thread late.

Loved your Croatia and Portugal.

Nice to follow you along, you took better pictures than I ever did !

I will be following now that I found your superb trip posting !

Belated Happy Birthday




Your picture of the Round Tower in Copenhagen reminds me that when I was there I was told Peter the Great rode up here on horseback and his wife Catherine I ( not Catherine the Great) rode in a carriage with four horse abreast!!
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Old May 25th, 2022, 11:28 AM
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Thank you everyone for your positive comments! It really motivates me to continue, even though I am several days behind now. Here’s the next installment.

When we arrived in Bergen in the mid-afternoon, the city was still enjoying the same gorgeous weather we had had in Oslo, so we decided to take a stroll through Bryggen, the historic harbor district known for its colorfully painted wood houses. Although many of the shops were closed for the day, it was fun to walk up and down the narrow alleys between the houses, and admire the ones which had been so lovingly restored.

The next day, our luck finally ran out on the good weather, and it was rain, rain and more rain. When it comes to just how often it rains in Bergen, I think my guide book says it best:

A tourist walks up to a young boy in Bergen and says, “Does it always rain here?!” To which the boy replies, “I don’t know, I’m only thirteen”.

(Insert rimshot here.)

Since the weather report was predicting rain for the next morning, and (slightly less) rain for the afternoon, we decided to spend the morning at the series of KODE museums, imaginatively named KODE 1, 2, 3 and 4. The first two were rather small, with number 1 focusing on architectural ideas for a communal living community, which brought back some repressed memories of university housing. The second had two small exhibits on Norwegian painters, as well as a two-story high, chrome sculpture of what looked like a cross between a giant narwhal tusk and an enormous drill bit. I loved how incongruous the modern sculpture looked against the traditional architecture of the building.

KODE 3 had larger expositions, with a collection of Norwegian decorative arts, such as furniture and tableware, as well as a collection of paintings which focus primarily, but not exclusively, on Munch. Unfortunately, about 75% of the Munch paintings were either out on loan or being rotated out, so we were doubly happy that we had visited the Munch museum in Oslo.

KODE 4 had a special temporary exhibition to celebrate the 50 year anniversary of Norway decriminalizing same-sex relations, called the Queer Gaze.

(Personal aside: It’s interesting, but after being a loving couple for 39 years, we have long stopped feeling like we need society’s approval; however, it made me feel good to see our relationship not only recognized, but celebrated. Similar to how it felt to hear the officient in our wedding, many years ago, say the words, “I now pronounce you husband and husband”, in the presence of our family and friends.)

The exhibit was interesting, with overt examples of same-sex themes from Greek and Roman art, to the more ambiguous symbolism in the artworks from the Middle Ages, through the renaissance to early modern art, and finally, the out-and-proud examples from contemporary artists.

After a lunch that was rather more healthy than satisfying, we decided to take the funicular up to a view-point over the city. The rain had slowed to a light mist, so we thought this might be our only chance. Of course, the minute we started up the hill, a huge cloud bank descended on the mountain side, rendering the view virtually non-existent. So after some tea and a slice of apple tart at the top, we reboarded for the return trip. Well, Odin, or some other Norse god in Asgard, must have taken pity on us, because the clouds parted as we made our descent, at least enough to shoot a few gray and hazy pics.

Later that night, we were excited as we packed our bags, because the next day we would pick up our rental car to start the next phase of our trip: frolicking through the fjords.

(Almost all of these pics were taken the first afternoon, before the rain.)

Bryggen

Bryggen

Bryggen

Bryggen

Bryggen

Bryggen

Julemarked Byparken, in front of KODE 1

Pavilion at the Julemarked Byparken

Narwhal Tusk/Drill Bit (we never found a plaque to see who the artist was)

Food delivery on electric scooter

City center

Residential neighborhood


“Your kind of place”

Bergen from the funicular


Bryggen at 10pm (still twilight)

Last edited by russ_in_LA; May 25th, 2022 at 12:13 PM.
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Old May 25th, 2022, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Percy

Your picture of the Round Tower in Copenhagen reminds me that when I was there I was told Peter the Great rode up here on horseback and his wife Catherine I ( not Catherine the Great) rode in a carriage with four horse abreast!!
Ha ha! I love that!!
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Old May 25th, 2022, 12:53 PM
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Still here too. Hoping the weather improves the rest of your journey.
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