Saumur: a winery and lunch
 

Hi all

I lent my Dad the book Wine and War to read before our trip. I've planned the itinerary to be based from Paris-Fougeres-Bayeux-Paris. Now that he has read that book he really wants to visit a winery on our trip.

Since Brittany and Normandy aren't actually known for wineries, I am considering taking the TGV to Tours when we leave Paris, pick up a car, and visit Saumur for a winery and lunch before continuing the drive to Fougeres, the next stop.

I know wineries and food won't be hard to find there, but, I thought I'd ask if anyone had any favorites to recommend.

As an aside, I am considering part of a day in Reims, from Paris - as a bonus there are also some sites of WWII historical interest in Reims (more or less the theme of our trip) and of course some of the book concentrated on the Champagne region.

Thanks!

Hi flygirl, I don't have any suggestions, but may i ask why Saumur specifically?

You can also consider taking the TGV to Angers instead of Tours.

Hi yk!

Saumur seemed to be in a logical line towards Fougeres - or at least not greatly out of the way. I've visited the Loire a few times (and well know we are giving it far-too-short shrift by passing through like this) but haven't been to Saumur and have heard good things about it.

I considered Angers too, as well as Vouvray, which would be a little bit of a backtrack, perhaps not too bad. I've been to Vouvray, but not Angers. In the end we won't have much time for sightseeing (or rather what extra we add on this end, comes off another end, so choices will need to be made). I chose Fougeres and environs for a reason so I don't want to cut that time to bits either.

Entirely too many things to see and do and far too little time to do it all.

If you think Angers is better than Saumur, I'm all ears!

No NO NO!! Not Angers -Saumur is the place to be!!
I have been to both twice and the only reason we went to Angers was to see the tapestry and catch the TGV back to Paris when our week long tour of the Loire ended. I'm not saying this is all there is to Angers and maybe someone can add something here.

Saumur is wonderful. The chateau behind was under renovation and there wasn't that much to see in it. Azay-le-Rideau is far far better for their beautiful chateau and moat.

We had many many wine tastings at each meal and did go for one private tour to a small winery, but the best part was having lunch deep - very very deep, into a Troglidyte cave where they grew mushrooms and snails. There are several of these caves and unfortunately I couldn't remember the name of the one I've described so ended up at a much lesser interesting one on my second trip.
Do contact the Saumur Tourist Board and ask them about the large cave that has a restaurant inside if you decide on Saumur.
Also, we took a champagne boat trip up the very wide Loire river.

Hotels:
Azay-le-Rideau - Hotel Grand Monarque, 1 Place de la Republic,
Te: 02 47 45 40 08 Fax:02 47 45 46 25

Saumur: Hotel Anne d'Anjou - sorry you will have to get the address off the web but we had their room overlooking the Loire - huge and cavernous with a small balcony which is over their front entrance. They have garden rooms as well.
Our last night was at a Chateau: Le Prieure in Chenehutte-les-Tuffeaux. Absolutely wonderful!

Do not miss, repeat DO NOT miss the teeny little enclave of
Candes-St-Martin, described as one of the most beautiful villages in all of France.

Here's the troglodyte cave/restaurant we ate at in Saumur:

http://www.cave-aux-moines.com/

Wonderful, unique experience.

Can't help out with a winery, as we didn't do one in Saumur.

Hey flygirl -
I'm also planning on going to Saumur in July. I've been recommended to eat at:
http://www.restaurantlegambetta.com/

Also, if you go to Reims and your dad wants another book to read:
'The Widow Clicquot: The Story of a Champagne Empire and the Woman Who Ruled It'

Some questions for you:
What in Reims is the WWII historical interest that you speak of? We'll be spending a day there.

Vouvray - We'll be passing thru as well. You've been, any recommendations there?

Most French wine producers accept visitors, but the package is often very limited: you don't actually see much. A good visit near Saumur is Domaine Filliatreau. It has the further advantage of being easy to find. Take the road along the south bank of the river, going eastward (towards Montsoreau and Fontevraud); it's a few miles out of the city, on the right-hand side of the road, well signposted. I like their wines, too.

St Cirq - You are marvellous! Yes, that's the one!!
Definitely don't bother with anything else Flygirl.
I remember our lunch was a set menu and included a dish - or should I say breadroll, stuffed with something exotic that was once a favourite of Balzac's.
Of course one of the wines to drink in the Loire is Sancerre.

tod, I think those are fouées chaudes, stuffed with rillettes or mushrooms.

Well StCirq and tod have talked me into changing my plans... going to have dinner at those caves!! Looks truly unique. Thanks for the tip!

You all are WONDERFUL! Thank you for such great info! Saumur it is, and Cande St. Martin looks like a great place to stop as well (so much for "no time for extra sightseeing..."). The caves look like a unique experience.

maxmox - the Germans signed their surrender at Reims, for starters. There are also a few UNESCO World Heritage sites in Reims.

Interestingly enough, Reims is also called the Ville Art Deco due to being destroyed in WWI and being rebuilt in the 20s (yk, you'd like that!)

Flygirl - Correction to a previouse statement: The fouees chaudes stuffed with rillettes and mushrooms were beloved by FRANCOIS RABELAIS, a native of Chinon, not Balzac.

Maxmox: You have done the right thing! Restaurant Le Gambetta may have lovely food but the setting didn't grab me.
As a matter of fact I was going to suggest dining al fresco directly outside the medieval doors of the church of St Pierre in the town square. All the tables are lit with candles and if the weather is right, creates a most romantic setting.

Flygirl: At Candes-Saint-Martin there is a little bistro below the steps of the church. We stopped for lunch there during one of our daily walking excursions through the forests and farms along the Loire.
Do also find MONTRE~SOR on your map. A beautiful village on the river Indrois and loveliest valley in Touraine. Poppies abound in the fields.

When you pick up your car in Tours do take a drive ( or walk there first) to the Cathedral St- Gatien. Started early 13th century and completed in the 16th century. Has a flamboyant Gothic facade that may be blackened and crumbling but yet still impressive, as are the medieval stained glass windows. Next door is the MUST before departing Tours - in the garden is a giant Cedar of Lebanon peported to be nearly 800 years old!
It certainly outclasses the one in Paris' Botanical Gardens by miles!

tod - Thanks again! I've even added Candes St Martin AND Montresor onto our itinerary!

Do you have any restaurant recommendations or Must-Sees in Chinon?

flygirl - hope you don't mind me "highjacking" your thread here... there is some great advice!!

We go along with the recommendation for Azay le Rideau. It's a small, lovely chateau and a comparatively quick stop, for a chateau visit. Not much in the town otherwise. If you want a B&B nearby, at Cheille La grange bleue is charming. Montsoreau and Candes St Martin are side by side and both qualify as most beautiful villages.

I hope you're not trying to fit all this in in one day before going to Fougeres?

There's a nice little restaurant in Chinon called Au Plaisir Gourmand. We had a lovely meal there, but it was about 10 years ago, so my information isn't current.

I was on an organised walk through the Loire Valley and so only experienced what was planned for us. However, I refer to my EyeWitness Guide under restaurants:- Chinon, and they recommend this place:
Les Annee`s, 78 rue Voltaire , PH: 02 47 93 37 18.
An elegant little eatery on the way up to the Chateau. Pike-Perch in butter and coq au vin are served in an airy diningroom or out on the terrace.

Oops! Forgot you asked about 'must-sees' CHINON!

Well, our guide could not emphasise enough the wonderment of Chateau De Chinon! V e r y very important shrine in Joan of Arc country and, as such, receives money from all passing pilgrims ( and tourists)!

It was here in 1429 that the saint first recognised the disguised dauphin (later Charles VII) - did you see the movie? If not get it and watch before your trip - it will put you right in the medieval mood!
She persuaded him to give her an army in order to drive the English out of France. The Chateau was also the Plantagenet Kings' favourite castle.
The town's bijou centre is like a medieval film set. Rue Voltaire lined with 15th century houses and once enclosed by the castle walls. There is a wine museum at No.12 and at No.44 is a stone mansion where in 1199, Richard The Lion-Heart
is said to have died.

maxmox, the more the merrier! When you ask questions it brings up other good ideas.

Coquelicot, indeed, the same day. I would like to keep it simple - pick one place to eat, one winery, wander a little bit (incl les plus beaux villages...), and keep going. In the end I leave it up to Dad, if he wants to tarry, tarry we will. As long as we are in Fougeres in time for dinner it's all good.

I visited Chinon about ten years ago... I stayed for a few days, enjoyed it immensely, and would like to go back, but not for such a short visit. There IS a lot of history in that village!

BTW, flygirl, my dad taught French and Latin to the author of "Wine and War." We got a complimentary copy of it from him with the nicest note about how my dad had sparked his now lifelong interest in France. I'm sure there were plenty of other influences, but it was sweet of him to remember. And it was an interesting book.

Very interesting! I can say that of some of my high school teachers (specifically history) and college profs (re: France), as well.

The book was great. I re-read it before lending it to Dad.