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Sarlat > Clermont-Ferrand > Auxerre > CDG

Mar 22nd, 2007, 10:09 AM
  #1  
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Sarlat > Clermont-Ferrand > Auxerre > CDG

We leave Sarlat on a Saturday morning and fly out from CDG on Wednesday morning. Our plans are as follows:

Saturday – drive to Puy de Dome area and spend day exploring and spend Saturday night at Hotel Radio in Clermont-Ferrand. Dinner at Le Radio.

Sunday drive north to Auxerre and spend Sunday on Monday visiting Auxerre, Troyes and Sens. Stay Sunday and Monday nights at Auberge La Lucarne aux Chouettes in Villeneuve sur Yonne. Dinner one night at the auberge, one night at ???.

Tuesday drive north to Ermenonville where we stay overnight at Chateau d’Ermenonville.

Your comments and suggestions and thank you.
robjame is offline  
Mar 22nd, 2007, 10:28 AM
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I suspect that you can't really do the three towns in a day and a half. Troyes can take up a full day just visiting the Cathedral, the tool museum (a must for 19th cent. working life), and wandering around the old town--I recommend Le Bistroquet for lunch, although it is somewhat pricey, but you could also pick up lunch items at the local covered market.

Here are some pictures of Troyes, starting at number 32:

http://tinyurl.com/36jdgb
Michael is online now  
Mar 22nd, 2007, 10:35 AM
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Yes Michael - it will have to be more like a discovery visit than an in-depth stay (which we prefer). Hoping to get some input on which of the three we should concentrate on. Thanks for the lunch suggestion.
robjame is offline  
Mar 22nd, 2007, 10:43 AM
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I would concentrate on Troyes, which has a larger old town than Sens. I preferred it to Auxerre.
Michael is online now  
Mar 22nd, 2007, 11:17 AM
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We were quite underwhelmed with Sens. I would skip it & spend more time in the other places. It's a little difficult to get in/out of town also.

Too bad you're doing this on a Sunday when almost all stores will be closed. I don't think it would impact your enjoyment of Troyes that much, but Auxerre has many pretty storefronts, which will be 'dark" while you are there. There is an excellent walking guide book (in English) to Auxerre that you can get (free) at the tourist office - if it's open.
www.ot-auxerre.fr
Just like the Owl Walk in Dijon, there are markets along the streets. Unfortunately, some of the steets have been paved over after they placed/painted the markers there, so you'll have to "search" a bit. The walk took us about 1 1/2 hrs to complete.

Any reason you're skipping some wonderful chateaux in the Auxerre area?

Stu Dudley
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Mar 22nd, 2007, 12:08 PM
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We had to make a decision between one day in Puy de Dome and two in the Auxerre area or vice-versa.
Remembering that this is the end of October, the chateaux schedule didn't look promising. Am I wrong?
Any feedback on The Radio or La Lucarne aux Chouettes (Leslie Caron's place)?
robjame is offline  
Mar 22nd, 2007, 12:58 PM
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We had an excellent dinner at le Radio. It was my wife's birthday dinner. Probably the best meal of 10 or so we had in the Puy du Dome region. The dacor is quite different from what you would expect - Art Deco. Lots of 'beautiful people" were dining there (including my wife).

Chateau de Tanlay is open from April 1 to 12 November, daily except Tuesday. Michelin gives it a 2 star rating. The 1 hr tour is offered at 10, 11:30, 2:15, 3:15, 4:15, 5:15. We spent an hour or so lingering in the park there, waiting for the Chateau to open for the afternoon tour. www.chateaudetanlay.com

Chateau d'Ancy le Franc (another Michelin 2 star) is just down the road from Tanlay. It's open in October from Tues to Sunday (closed Mon). Tours are at 10:30, 11:30, 2, 3, 4.
www.chateau-ancy.com

If you visit both Chateaux, save your ticket for the first one you visit & you'll get a discount on the second chateau.

After visiting Auxerre, a good side trip to these chateau would be to head east on the N65/D965 past Chablis, past Tonnerre, and then to Tanlay. It's only about 45K from Auxerre. After Tanlay, if you have time, head southeast on the D518 then a smaller road to Ancy le Franc. After Ancy, take the D905, D12, D956 west to the cute town of Noyers for a quick visit. Then get on the freeway at exit 21 to head north.

If this was my trip, I'de stay near the 2 chateax, & not in Villeneuve. This would make it easier to visit Auxerre, Tanlay, Ancy le Franc, & Noyers on Sunday & Monday morning, then off to Troyes for lunch on Monday then a visit. There is hotel with a Michelin 1 star restaurant in Chablis (open Sun & Mon). Both the hotel rooms & the restaurant are reasonably priced. Hostellerie des Clos. We did not visit Chablis on our Sept trip.

Stu Dudley
StuDudley is online now  
Mar 22nd, 2007, 03:39 PM
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Good suggestion Stu. I gather you would stay 2 days in this area over 2 days in the Puy de Dome area?
robjame is offline  
Mar 22nd, 2007, 04:05 PM
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Yep - there are more things to see & do in the Burgundy area that consume time, like visiting Chateaux, cities, & villages.

In the Puy du Dome, you can drive around quite a lot and admire the wonderful views & scenery. Not that many villges/cities to visit and most (perhaps 90%) of the Chateaux are closed in Oct.

Stu Dudley
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