Sardinia help needed
 

I've been reading my Cadogan Sardinia guide, I've read tons of postings, and yet I'm still perplexed. I'm not getting a good feel for this island. Conversely, I have a good feel for Sicily and how to spend our time there.

Here's the plan, we're flying into Olbia Sept 16 around 3pm and staying for 12 days before parting out of Cagliari to Sicily. The plan stops here.

So, from the Sardinia experts, my question is "If you had twelve days, where would you go first?" I have read that people say to "get a car" but then others say "don't get the car at the airport" in order to avoid the high airport tax. Honestly, I'm not that excited about driving, but I understand that it's really quite necessary. Maybe we could train/bus somewhere first then get the car for a few days to do some driving for sightseeing along the coast.

We want to relax along some beautiful beaches. I'd like to see some nuraghe remains and eat some tasty food. We'd like to spend about two hundred a night to no more than 300/night for accommodations. I prefer non touristy spots. I envision staying in a town for 3 or 4 nights with, perhaps some day trips. So far, about the only "don't miss" town seems to be La Maddalena.

I'd love to hear from you GAC-and of course, anyone else willing to input their two cents. If you had twelve days, what would you do? Thanks!

topping

Here is a sample 12 day itinerary, based upon use of public transportation (if you rent a car for at least part of the trip, you will see more of the interior of the Island and will be free from the limitations of sticking to bus schedules):

1. From Olbia airport, take airporter bus direct to Palau. At Palau, take the car ferry to La Maddalena. Two or three nights in La Maddalena. Visit Garibaldi's House and Compound on Caprera Island (local buses).

2. Return to Palau by car ferry. Take ARST bus to Santa Teresa di Gallura. Transfer to ARST bus to Castelsardo (one and possibly two buses go all the way from Olbia/Palau/S.Teresa/Castelsardo/Sassariwithout changing, but this is not essential, as it's easy to transfer buses in S. Teresa. Two nights in Castelsardo.

3. From Castelsardo by rental car (available locally), drive to the inland churches of Nosta Signora di Tergu and San Pietro delle Immagini.

4. From Castelsardo take the ARST bus to Sassari. Possibly spend two hours there roaming around the Old Town (store luggage at the train station near the bus stop). Transfer to ARST or FMS bus to Alghero. Four nights in Alghero.

5. From Alghero, take public transportation (or use rental car or rental motorbike) to surrounding tourist sites: Palmavera Nuraghe, Anghelu Ruiu, Mosca e Sella Winery, Bosa, Le Bombarde Beach, Alghero Lido, Capo Caccia Promontory. Take boat tour to Nepture Grotto.

6. Return to Sassari by bus. Travel to Oristano by PANI bus, or by train, or by rental car. (If by car, stop to visit the marvellous church of SS Trinita' di Saccargia south of Sassari, in open countryside, thence important nuraghi along the route to Oristano). Visit Oristano town. Go to Tharros Peninsula to see spectacular Roman ruins (ASRT bus during July and August only), otherwise use rental car or motorbike. Possibly one night in Oristano.

7. Continue by rental car to Barumini Nuraghe, then on to Cagliari. (Alternatively, go to Cagliari by PANI bus or by train, then take the 2 pm ARST bus to Barumini and return to Cagliari the following morning at 7:35 a.m.). Two nights in Cagliari to visit the Archeological Museum, Cathedral, and roam around the town. If you want to spend the nights at a beach resort, I recommend Santa Margherita di Pula or Chia Laguna. ARST bus goes to both.

8. From Cagliari, take side trips by ARST bus or by rental car to: Roman Ruins at Nora/Pula; Santa Margherita di Pula/Chia Laguna; Villasimius/Costa Rey

9. Take the overnight Tirrenia car ferry to either Trapani or Palermo (departurnes only on Fridays and Sundays)

Here are some web sites:

www.arst.sardegna.it (ARST buses)
www.trenitalia.com
www.tirrenia.it
www.saremar.it (car ferry from Palau)

Bless your heart GAC! I'm printing this out and will follow it. You're the best!

Just to put my posting in perspective: there are many other possible itineraries to consider, such as one which emphasizes the Sardinian interior (inland Gallura, Logudoro, Nuorese-Barbagia, Campidano, Sulcis, Nurra etc.) over the coastal areas. The sample itinerary which I posted above overwhelmingly favors the coastal routes, with minimal forays into the interior. It also ignores large areas of Sardinia such as the beautiful Nuorese coastline and the Costa Verde south of Oristano, largely because it emphasizes the use of public transport. The more you value the interior of the Island, the handier a rental car becomes. If you stick entirely to the coastal areas, you can very easily rely almost exclusively on buses. However, you do miss out on important sites inland, as well as some flexibility. In the ARST website, you can look up most of the bus schedules, and learn about the 7 and 14 day tourist passes which allow unlimited travel on ARST buses (NOT on PANI or FMS buses). You can also calculate the point-to-point fares to determine the value to you of a tourist pass.