tessietoes

This is just the stuff you don't get in guidebooks! Thanks for confirming Gros. The apt we're looking at has a nice view of the water and bridge leading to Old town so crossing fingers that works out.

Thinking of renting a car {thank you for that suggestion!} latter part then head to Bilbao for maybe 1 or 2 nights then fly out of Bilbao airport. Any areas/hotels in Bilbao you suggest we stay at?

Rebecca, your future drive through France sounds fun! I'm curious if you've mapped out which parts of France.. and also that apt you highly recommend. You have so many great suggestions, thank you!

Everyone has so many great suggestions! yorkshire, danon, kimhe, DebitNM, PalenQ...appreciate all the tips and like kya said...the wonderful info, thank you.

Regarding Barcelona, which central area do you suggest? I am going back and forth between el Born and Ciutat Vella...or your preference?

mikelg

I am a Bilbao native...the choice of hotels is wide and they are quite cheap compared to those in Donostia-San Sebastian. It depends on your budget, but it´s quite true that hotels in Spain are far better than those in other countries at more reasonable prices. That is, a 3 star hotel will surpass many 4 star hotels in many other countries. I can recommend Barceló Nervión, Conde Duque, Miró, Indautxu, Abando, Albia, Carlton. Any area is just fine...you can walk anywhere in Bilbao.

RebeccahS

I haven't planned the drive yet - our next Spain excursion is only a quick week in Madrid before Hungary - but there are a few topics on it here and there. Here's a link to the Airbnb apartment: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/534069 and my trip report with our pintxos route map and other SS excursions: http://rebeccasnyder.com/18-days-in-northwest-spain.htm

danon

I prefer Eixample close to Placa Cataluya( a very center of Barcelona.)..several Gaudi
buildings, wide boulevards, upscale shops, many cafes.

CV ...is not my favorite..
Stayed in Born once...also fine ..hip, many bars , very crowded at night.

It is easy to walk from one area to others, also Barcelona has a great metro system.

kja

I'm still following along, still learning -- thanks all!

kimhe

Both Eixample and El Born would be very good and different options in Barcelona. Eixample is modern, largely upscale and local feel, whereas El Born is medieval, narrow streets, sights, museums and more tourists. Great tapas bars, cafés, restaurants and nightlife in both areas (Eixample is large, so it depends on where). I've stayed in both areas, and I prefer El Born for the more laid-back bars and atmosphere into the night and the proximity to the vibrant Barceloneta area and the beach.

tessietoes

Thanks mike! I appreciate the hotel choices, always great to hear what the natives like.

Rebecca, that apt looked nice. Still waiting for the owner to respond but we decided to take the one in Gros. Love the Pintxos Route Map!! Great blog

danon & kimhe, thanks so much for all your suggestions. I think we would prefer to be in Eixample but the eastern side closer to el Born. Does someone have an apt they recommend? I've looked at a ton and didn't quite see any, was hoping for a view/balcony. Any hotels you liked in that area? $150-200 Thanks!

danon

we rented a couple of times from habitat some time ago
some other posters as well
http://www.habitatapartments.com/bar...FZE1aQodlzAAyw

tessietoes

Thank you! Going to check that out.

tessietoes

We are completely in love with San Sébastian!!

The water, landscape, people, culture, language and food are just wonderful. LOVE.

When we got here, it was chilly enough that I had to wear my Cuddl Duds...hehe I like that name...Cuddl Duds which I learned from someone on Fodors, then the next day was cold but no Duds. Then today... BAM! Absolutely glorious! Warm enough to sunbathe in our swimsuits on the terrace. We got lucky enough to grab one of the attic rooms at the Londres {only found the room through its actual website under Offers--Romantic Getaway} and it is worth every penny. Thanks for the attic rec, kimhe...among many many others.

The pintxos are so much fun and just delicious. And quite affordable. IMDonehere, I'm enjoying throwing napkins all over the floors!

Upon touch down at the airport, my bf said, I think 6 days might be too much here. Today he looks at me and says, why are we only staying 6 days here!?

We've been to some yummy pintxo bars such as Atari, Gandarias, Zeruko, etc but so far my favorite is Bar Azkena tucked inside the Mercado de la Bretxa. We enjoyed it enough we're going again before we leave. Don't let the fish market smell put you off on the other side of the market...can't really smell it from the seats. Side note: I'm not gluten intolerant but they do make gluten-free stuff for those who are.

He made reservations somewhere tomorrow for lunch but he won't say where so that's that. Will share if it turns out to be great, lol.

I keep referring to this thread.. thank you again for all the suggestions, all.

Kja, omg... excited for you!

kja

Thanks, tessietoes -- I'm excited for myself! (it was wonderful of you to think of me!) And I am <b>delighted</b> to learn that you and your bf are enjoying your time in San Sebastian so much! )

Betsy

Would love some recs for good pintxos in Barcelona. Would like to spend a casual, informal evening migrating from one place to another enjoying wine and bites of good food--you had me at jamon iberico. We're staying in Eixample about a 10-minute walk from Placa Catalunya. Is there a pintxos route there?

heart2travel

I'm sorry I didn't jump in sooner. @tessietoes can't wait for your trip report. We are there in June. Do you see kids at the pintxo bars? Traveling with my 13&17 year old nephew / niece . Also I am allergic to shellfish(bummer!!!!!) and my sister only eats veggies,fish and seafood. Any problem in communicating? I am sort of worried as my allergy it is a lethal one. ( I carry an epipen but still nervous!)
Enjoy your time in SS and so generous of you to share your info from there...
Kim

kimhe

Betsy,

Pintxos is a Basque thing, and has little to do with Catalan food culture. But in recent years there has popped up dozens of copies in Barcelona. Although the Barcelona pintxos bars seldom impress Basque people (the pintxos in Barcelona use to have toothpicks in different colours, so that the waiter could count how many and to what prize you have eaten, in genuine pintxos bars this would be based on trust only) there are some fine pintxos places in Barcelona also. I like two bars in El Born, 300 meters apart, Euskal Etxea and Txakolin.
Euskal Etxea: http://www.euskaletxeataberna.com/eng/restaurantes/
Txakolin: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Catalonia.html

BUT Euskal Etxea is almost next door to fabulous local tapas bar Tapeo (the Coca de Sardina tapa is to die for) http://www.tapeoborn.cat/
and famous Xampanyet: http://www.worldsbestbars.com/bar/ba...r/el-xampanyet

So my suggestion would perhaps be to start with pintxos at Basque Euskal Etxea or Txakolin and then on to Catalan tapas at Tapeo and Xampanyet

heart2travel
Kids are everywhere in Spain, and very much in pintxos bars. My wife is also allergic to shellfish, and has eaten her way through loads of pintxos bars in San Sebastian over the years. Should be no problem communicating, shellfish is mariscos and allergy is alergia.

tessie,
Glad you got the Londres attic, have a great time!

Betsy

Thanks kimhe, for making the distinction between Catalan and Basque. Thanks also for the pintxos and tapas recommendations. Can't wait!

We'll be there during the National Day of Spain in October. Is this a big holiday in Barcelona that will result in restaurant closures and altered transportation schedules on the metro?

tessietoes

Man o man, 430a and I'm wide awake.

Kim, instead of writing notes to myself I'll post here esp since I doubt I'll be doing a TR when we get back...diving right back to work.

So tonight we experienced another first in Europe. We got propositioned for drugs! On our way back from a pintxo bar, Gandarias again since not a lot are open at 11p, this guy in a beanie came up to bf and asked if he needs anything. We kept walking then he started walking with us. "You sure?" Then he got more specific, "cocaine, marijuana, hashish?" Bf said no thanks and we kept walking. He wasnt pushy, finally turned around and said "okay no problem". We didn't feel unsafe but also wondered if it's an undercover cop because there were 2 security people only a few feet away on the same block. After he asked us, he went on to ask another couple sitting in front of Atari which is a nearby pintxo spot. Interesting.

The lunch surprise turned out to be Arzak. Apparently he emailed them but they were in full capacity. Last minute cancelation. Food and experience were unforgettable and met Juan Mari Arzak. He made his rounds on the small area, 10 tables, and asked me where I'm from. I said Estados Unidos and he said no, de donde eres? I said Estados Unidos again, then I realized he was asking my ethnicity. I'm a mutt so I guess he couldn't place my look? I get star struck with super skilled chefs so that was a really special moment for me I was looking for Elena his daughter who is also a chef there but she's in "London on business". More space and more tables on upper level.

Weather today was gray but no rain. The food here continues to keep us mind-blowingly happy...very impt to note that one does not have to spend a lot here to eat insanely amazing food unless you want a particular experience. And some great pintxos start at a euro!

Kim, I've seen many kids at pintxo bars, babies too. You can also ask for the menu for some of the hot pintxos not on display. Allergy or not, one thing's for sure...there'll be a party in your tummy!!

Now I'm sleepy.

kimhe

The drugs thing is not at all uncommon, but I've never experienced anyone particularly pushy.

Sound like a great lunch and a peculiar meeting with Arzak himself ;-)

Betsy
<We'll be there during the National Day of Spain in October. Is this a big holiday in Barcelona>
No, and especially not now with the Catalan independence from Spain question becoming more and more acute. The Catalan National Day is September 11, remembering the loss of independence to Spain in 1714. http://www.homagetobcn.com/diada-de-catalunya/

Some recent updates on the independence issue: http://www.bloomberg.com/news/articl...-discuss-split

Betsy

Thanks again, kimhe. I thought the Catalan independence issue might make for a more subdued celebration in Barcelona.

Thanks for reporting in Tessietoes. Looking forward to a party in my tummy despite my allergy to shellfish.

PalenQ

Barcelona now has Amsterdam lie coffeeshops - clubs you must join but anyone can. And they have outlawed bullfighting in Catalonia, another mark of a more advanced place than the rest of Spain.

kimhe

<And they have outlawed bullfighting in Catalonia, another mark of a more advanced place than the rest of Spain>

The Catalan ban on bullfihting says more about Catalan attitudes towards Spain/Madrid than about attitudes towards bullfighting or animal cruelty. To put it bluntly: In the context of the current increasing importance of regional matters, not least in Spain and France, the Spanish Catalans are against bullfighting also because Madrid is pro bullfighting, while especially the Nimes/Arles region in the south of France is as pro bullfighting as ever while Paris is against. BBC sep 2012: "Bullfighting declared legal in France": http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-19673414

Jason Webster has lived in Spain since the early 1990's and has written several best selling books about Spanish life and culture. In his cyncal, but true words: http://www.independent.co.uk/voices/...y-2360934.html

No wonder that the bullfight of the entury took place in the South of France a couple of years ago. Here from The Guardian: http://www.theguardian.com/world/201...s-france-spain