Rome/Malta/Ostia Antica
Oct 15th, 2017, 06:28 AM
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Rome/Malta/Ostia Antica
My wife and I recently returned from a Fall sojourn to Europe. We spent one week in Rome, three nights on Gozo (part of the Malta archipelago), 4 nights in Valetta, Malta and 3 nights below the Rome airport so we could explore Ostia Antica.
We flew Air Canada from Ottawa, through Montreal to Rome. We had Premium Economy seats which I highly recommend. The extra leg room, seat recline, meal choices, priority check-in, boarding and baggage handling made the extra cost well worth it. PE seats are available in rows 12-14. However row 12 is the bulkhead and legroom seemed restricted to me. We used Air Malta for our flights from Rome to Malta and return. I must say that Terminal 3 at FCO is quite efficient including security.
An interesting thing happened on our return flight to Canada. When we got off the plane we proceeded to passport control. However there were 2 streams, one for those exiting in Montreal and one for those making connections. Since we were continuing on to Ottawa we followed connections to a separate room downstairs. We went to passport control and handed the agent our passports and our customs declaration. He looked at it, asked a few questions and kept it. We left that area and continued on to our gate. We did not retrieve our bags until we arrived in Ottawa. Since this was a domestic flight we never did present ourselves or our bags at customs.
ROME
We spent the first week in Rome at the NH Giustiniano Hotel located behind the Castel Sant’Angelo. We have stayed here before and love the location because of its proximity to many of the primary attractions (Vatican City, Piazza Navona, Pantheon, Piazza del Popolo). We had a Junior Suite with a balcony. It was a lovely room, clean, very well kept and quiet. Oddly they don’t have chairs on the balcony. They said they would provide two but never did. The breakfast buffet was quite good and provided just about everything you might want. I’d have preferred some type of breakfast potato over stewed tomatoes but the fried mushrooms with onions were a pleasant surprise.
Now Rome is a walking city so we were out and about for at least 4 to 5 hours each day. We’d leave early, have a late lunch and then retreat to the hotel to relax before heading for ‘aperitivo’. That is basically happy hour accompanied by free tapas-style dishes. The Caffé Portofino overlooking Piazza Cola di Rienzo became our second home for our almost daily Aperol Spritz and ice cold draft .
We had purchased tickets in advance for the Palazzo Altemps and Crypta Barbi. As it ended up there were no long lines at either place. Palazzo Altemps had some interesting displays of pottery, coins and statues and such but I could have skipped it. The Crypta Barbi was our real interest. There might have been 10 other people there so we could take our time exploring. Well worth the time. Close by is the Largo Argentina which was also quite interesting. A little further on was the Compo di Fiori, a perfect place for shopping and a coffee break. Afterwards we crossed over Ponte Mazzini and headed up to St. Peter’s Square. We were somewhat surprised to see that the line to get into the Basilica extended from the entrance through the columns and across the square. Thankfully we had been there during prior visits to Rome.
Our destination was the Hotel Alante Star on via G. Vitelleschi so we could have a late lunch on the roof-top garden restaurant/bar with its wonderful views. I would highly recommend this.
Another day was dedicated to a tour of Trajan’s Market just beyond the Palazzo Valentini. The museum was quite good but the market area itself was fantastic. We spent at least an hour exploring the various areas and overlooking Trajan’s Forum. It is definitely worth it. On exiting we took the staircase down to see the base of Trajans’ Column behind the Domus Romane (another site we have previously visited that I would highly recommend). We had intended to go to the roof of the Vittoria Emanuele Monument but it was way too crowded by the time we got there. We retreated to an alley off the via del Corso for lunch and then continued over to the Trevi Fountain. The crowds here were a little much but again we had been here before so didn’t wait to get our 2 minutes at the railing to get a picture. We headed back cross-country toward the Pantheon and back to the hotel.
We had intended to spend one whole day out on the Appian Way. From the reviews I had read and a guide I found on the net I concluded that taking a taxi to where we planned to visit was not an option and that we should start walking from the San Sebastian Gate. Wrong. We could have taken our taxi all the way in and it was quite a trek (I have some mobility problems) from the Gate to the first Catacomb (St. Calixtus). Well by that time I was exhausted. There was no way I could walk up that hill and have any chance of lasting the day. So we thought we would proceed to the Catacombs of San Sebastian. A sign indicated that it was 1500 metres away up another incline. We abandoned our plans, flagged a taxi and headed back in town. I will make sure I research this better before our next trip to Rome.
Before coming to Rome we had purchased tickets for a tour of the excavated site at the Circus Maximus and Domus Aurea (Nero’s Palace). The excavation was quite interesting but we could have done this on our own with the aid of a good guide book on any day of the week. However tours of the Domus are only scheduled for Saturdays and Sundays and are guided by an archeologist (or an assistant) that is working at the site during the week. You are required to wear a hard hat during the tour just in case something falls from the ceiling. When you first enter there is a short introductory movie on the history of the site that is projected over 30 feet of an ancient wall. You are then brought through a series of passageways, rooms and archways. At one point you sit, don goggles and are brought through a virtual-reality tour. Fantastic tour and definitely a must see.
https://www.througheternity.com/en/r...urea-tour.html
Of course you can’t visit Rome without having lunch at the Piazza Navona. There are many choice restaurants and we have never had a bad meal there any time we have visited. Unfortunately for many the two fountains at either end were turned off and surrounded by construction netting. I know there was a water shortage in Italy this summer but am unsure if this was related. After lunch we took a walk through some of the side streets. One street over from the Piazza we peaked through the open door at 40, Corso del Rinascimentov and stumbled upon the Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza church at the rear of the courtyard. There is a unique corkscrew lantern at its dome. We didn’t venture in as we didn’t want to interrupt the Mass.
MALTA
We had been to Malta twice before but had never ventured over to Comino nor Gozo. This time we spent the first 3 nights at the Grand Hotel on Gozo. The hotel arranged a transfer from the airport (30Euro) to the ferry. Freddy our driver was great and provided much commentary as we crossed the big island. At the ferry we placed our luggage in a secure ‘locker’ and picked them up on the other side after a 20 minute crossing. You don’t need to purchase a ticket ($4.65) until your return passage.
The Grand Hotel was in fact grand. We had booked a room with a balcony but they upgraded us to a room with a terrace over-looking the harbour. There was a table, 4 chairs and 2 lounge chairs. The room itself was almost as long as our bungalow at home. It was quiet and very well-kept. The breakfast buffet was quite good and dinners were absolutely perfect. The staff are quite attentive and will assist wherever needed. The outdoor swimming pool is on the 4th floor. It is probably 80-100 feet long but only 15-20 feet wide. There are at least 20 lounge chairs and umbrellas at either end. It was a wonderful place to relax after a busy day out and about. It also offered great views and you could phone down to the bar for refreshments or snacks.
We used the hop-on/hop-off bus (20Euro) to explore the island. There are 14 stops with the buses coming every 45 minutes. Our primary destination was the Ggantija Temple site. We were not disappointed. If lost civilizations are of any interest to you then this you will enjoy.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C4%A0gantija
We stopped in Victoria for lunch with the intention of visiting the Citadel and the various museums. However I didn’t think I could climb the slope and still have enough energy to explore this site properly. We decided to put it off till the next day but unfortunately we didn’t make it back having decided to have a pool day instead.
The ferry back was uneventful. We were fortunate to have Freddy again for our transfer back to Valletta by a different route this time. He really is a great ambassador for Malta.
We spent 4 nights at the Grand Hotel Excelsior in Valletta. This was our 3rd time there so knew enough to book a room with a balcony with a view of the pool area and the harbour. The hotel is within easy walking distance from Republic Street and the main bus terminal. The breakfast buffet has everything you could ask for. There is a large pool with plenty of lounge chairs but by mid-afternoon most people have returned from their outings so availability can be a problem.
We did spend a fair bit of time walking up and down the lower streets of Valletta and enjoying the various vistas across the harbours. However our primary purpose this year was to visit some of the temple sites we had not previously seen (have been to the Hypogeum and Tarxien Temples). The Hagar Qim is on a hilltop, the Mnajdra is 500 metres below above the Southern cliffs. Both were well worth exploring. The walk back up from Mnajdra I found a little taxing but am sure glad I went down.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C4%A6a%C4%A1ar_Qim
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mnajdra
OSTIA ANTICA
I was unaware of this site until reading a few trip reports and its comparison to Pompeii. So rather than flying directly home from Malta we decided to spend a few days at a FCO airport hotel so we could explore it.
We chose the Golden Tulip Hotel because of its proximity to Ostia Antica but were surprised to find out that they did not offer transfers from the airport till 1:00pm. As we arrived at 9:00am we had to take a ‘local’ taxi to the hotel. No big deal but just found it quite odd. The hotel met our needs, comfortable room, clean and quiet. The meals at the bar and restaurant were very good and the breakfast was quite adequate.
We took a taxi (25Euro) to Ostia Antica early in the morning to avoid the rumoured crowds from the tour buses that would be arriving from Rome. That was a good idea as by noon you were tripping over tour groups. Fortunately we had at least 3 hours before the onslaught so were able to take some good pictures of some amazing ruins. I’d guess the site is at least 1 mile long and a quarter wide. We had intended to spread our exploring over 2 days but by the time we got to the outer extremes it seemed senseless not to proceed and finish thereby eliminating the need to return.
The main difference between here and Pompeii: OA was covered by silt not the ruble from a volcanic eruption, OA is much more shaded and at OA you can enter just about every ruin.
We flew Air Canada from Ottawa, through Montreal to Rome. We had Premium Economy seats which I highly recommend. The extra leg room, seat recline, meal choices, priority check-in, boarding and baggage handling made the extra cost well worth it. PE seats are available in rows 12-14. However row 12 is the bulkhead and legroom seemed restricted to me. We used Air Malta for our flights from Rome to Malta and return. I must say that Terminal 3 at FCO is quite efficient including security.
An interesting thing happened on our return flight to Canada. When we got off the plane we proceeded to passport control. However there were 2 streams, one for those exiting in Montreal and one for those making connections. Since we were continuing on to Ottawa we followed connections to a separate room downstairs. We went to passport control and handed the agent our passports and our customs declaration. He looked at it, asked a few questions and kept it. We left that area and continued on to our gate. We did not retrieve our bags until we arrived in Ottawa. Since this was a domestic flight we never did present ourselves or our bags at customs.
ROME
We spent the first week in Rome at the NH Giustiniano Hotel located behind the Castel Sant’Angelo. We have stayed here before and love the location because of its proximity to many of the primary attractions (Vatican City, Piazza Navona, Pantheon, Piazza del Popolo). We had a Junior Suite with a balcony. It was a lovely room, clean, very well kept and quiet. Oddly they don’t have chairs on the balcony. They said they would provide two but never did. The breakfast buffet was quite good and provided just about everything you might want. I’d have preferred some type of breakfast potato over stewed tomatoes but the fried mushrooms with onions were a pleasant surprise.
Now Rome is a walking city so we were out and about for at least 4 to 5 hours each day. We’d leave early, have a late lunch and then retreat to the hotel to relax before heading for ‘aperitivo’. That is basically happy hour accompanied by free tapas-style dishes. The Caffé Portofino overlooking Piazza Cola di Rienzo became our second home for our almost daily Aperol Spritz and ice cold draft .
We had purchased tickets in advance for the Palazzo Altemps and Crypta Barbi. As it ended up there were no long lines at either place. Palazzo Altemps had some interesting displays of pottery, coins and statues and such but I could have skipped it. The Crypta Barbi was our real interest. There might have been 10 other people there so we could take our time exploring. Well worth the time. Close by is the Largo Argentina which was also quite interesting. A little further on was the Compo di Fiori, a perfect place for shopping and a coffee break. Afterwards we crossed over Ponte Mazzini and headed up to St. Peter’s Square. We were somewhat surprised to see that the line to get into the Basilica extended from the entrance through the columns and across the square. Thankfully we had been there during prior visits to Rome.
Our destination was the Hotel Alante Star on via G. Vitelleschi so we could have a late lunch on the roof-top garden restaurant/bar with its wonderful views. I would highly recommend this.
Another day was dedicated to a tour of Trajan’s Market just beyond the Palazzo Valentini. The museum was quite good but the market area itself was fantastic. We spent at least an hour exploring the various areas and overlooking Trajan’s Forum. It is definitely worth it. On exiting we took the staircase down to see the base of Trajans’ Column behind the Domus Romane (another site we have previously visited that I would highly recommend). We had intended to go to the roof of the Vittoria Emanuele Monument but it was way too crowded by the time we got there. We retreated to an alley off the via del Corso for lunch and then continued over to the Trevi Fountain. The crowds here were a little much but again we had been here before so didn’t wait to get our 2 minutes at the railing to get a picture. We headed back cross-country toward the Pantheon and back to the hotel.
We had intended to spend one whole day out on the Appian Way. From the reviews I had read and a guide I found on the net I concluded that taking a taxi to where we planned to visit was not an option and that we should start walking from the San Sebastian Gate. Wrong. We could have taken our taxi all the way in and it was quite a trek (I have some mobility problems) from the Gate to the first Catacomb (St. Calixtus). Well by that time I was exhausted. There was no way I could walk up that hill and have any chance of lasting the day. So we thought we would proceed to the Catacombs of San Sebastian. A sign indicated that it was 1500 metres away up another incline. We abandoned our plans, flagged a taxi and headed back in town. I will make sure I research this better before our next trip to Rome.
Before coming to Rome we had purchased tickets for a tour of the excavated site at the Circus Maximus and Domus Aurea (Nero’s Palace). The excavation was quite interesting but we could have done this on our own with the aid of a good guide book on any day of the week. However tours of the Domus are only scheduled for Saturdays and Sundays and are guided by an archeologist (or an assistant) that is working at the site during the week. You are required to wear a hard hat during the tour just in case something falls from the ceiling. When you first enter there is a short introductory movie on the history of the site that is projected over 30 feet of an ancient wall. You are then brought through a series of passageways, rooms and archways. At one point you sit, don goggles and are brought through a virtual-reality tour. Fantastic tour and definitely a must see.
https://www.througheternity.com/en/r...urea-tour.html
Of course you can’t visit Rome without having lunch at the Piazza Navona. There are many choice restaurants and we have never had a bad meal there any time we have visited. Unfortunately for many the two fountains at either end were turned off and surrounded by construction netting. I know there was a water shortage in Italy this summer but am unsure if this was related. After lunch we took a walk through some of the side streets. One street over from the Piazza we peaked through the open door at 40, Corso del Rinascimentov and stumbled upon the Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza church at the rear of the courtyard. There is a unique corkscrew lantern at its dome. We didn’t venture in as we didn’t want to interrupt the Mass.
MALTA
We had been to Malta twice before but had never ventured over to Comino nor Gozo. This time we spent the first 3 nights at the Grand Hotel on Gozo. The hotel arranged a transfer from the airport (30Euro) to the ferry. Freddy our driver was great and provided much commentary as we crossed the big island. At the ferry we placed our luggage in a secure ‘locker’ and picked them up on the other side after a 20 minute crossing. You don’t need to purchase a ticket ($4.65) until your return passage.
The Grand Hotel was in fact grand. We had booked a room with a balcony but they upgraded us to a room with a terrace over-looking the harbour. There was a table, 4 chairs and 2 lounge chairs. The room itself was almost as long as our bungalow at home. It was quiet and very well-kept. The breakfast buffet was quite good and dinners were absolutely perfect. The staff are quite attentive and will assist wherever needed. The outdoor swimming pool is on the 4th floor. It is probably 80-100 feet long but only 15-20 feet wide. There are at least 20 lounge chairs and umbrellas at either end. It was a wonderful place to relax after a busy day out and about. It also offered great views and you could phone down to the bar for refreshments or snacks.
We used the hop-on/hop-off bus (20Euro) to explore the island. There are 14 stops with the buses coming every 45 minutes. Our primary destination was the Ggantija Temple site. We were not disappointed. If lost civilizations are of any interest to you then this you will enjoy.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C4%A0gantija
We stopped in Victoria for lunch with the intention of visiting the Citadel and the various museums. However I didn’t think I could climb the slope and still have enough energy to explore this site properly. We decided to put it off till the next day but unfortunately we didn’t make it back having decided to have a pool day instead.
The ferry back was uneventful. We were fortunate to have Freddy again for our transfer back to Valletta by a different route this time. He really is a great ambassador for Malta.
We spent 4 nights at the Grand Hotel Excelsior in Valletta. This was our 3rd time there so knew enough to book a room with a balcony with a view of the pool area and the harbour. The hotel is within easy walking distance from Republic Street and the main bus terminal. The breakfast buffet has everything you could ask for. There is a large pool with plenty of lounge chairs but by mid-afternoon most people have returned from their outings so availability can be a problem.
We did spend a fair bit of time walking up and down the lower streets of Valletta and enjoying the various vistas across the harbours. However our primary purpose this year was to visit some of the temple sites we had not previously seen (have been to the Hypogeum and Tarxien Temples). The Hagar Qim is on a hilltop, the Mnajdra is 500 metres below above the Southern cliffs. Both were well worth exploring. The walk back up from Mnajdra I found a little taxing but am sure glad I went down.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C4%A6a%C4%A1ar_Qim
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mnajdra
OSTIA ANTICA
I was unaware of this site until reading a few trip reports and its comparison to Pompeii. So rather than flying directly home from Malta we decided to spend a few days at a FCO airport hotel so we could explore it.
We chose the Golden Tulip Hotel because of its proximity to Ostia Antica but were surprised to find out that they did not offer transfers from the airport till 1:00pm. As we arrived at 9:00am we had to take a ‘local’ taxi to the hotel. No big deal but just found it quite odd. The hotel met our needs, comfortable room, clean and quiet. The meals at the bar and restaurant were very good and the breakfast was quite adequate.
We took a taxi (25Euro) to Ostia Antica early in the morning to avoid the rumoured crowds from the tour buses that would be arriving from Rome. That was a good idea as by noon you were tripping over tour groups. Fortunately we had at least 3 hours before the onslaught so were able to take some good pictures of some amazing ruins. I’d guess the site is at least 1 mile long and a quarter wide. We had intended to spread our exploring over 2 days but by the time we got to the outer extremes it seemed senseless not to proceed and finish thereby eliminating the need to return.
The main difference between here and Pompeii: OA was covered by silt not the ruble from a volcanic eruption, OA is much more shaded and at OA you can enter just about every ruin.
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Jun 28th, 2005 07:40 AM
