davispeets

Rome, Perugia, Spello, Orvieto – 15 nights

I can’t thank you all enough for all the information I have received over the years from Fodorites. I have never written a trip report but have benefited tremendously from the generosity of others that share and I thought I would give it a try.

Itinerary -

Rome (1) @ Cenci B & B (Steps to Trevi Fountain, 170E)
Perugia (3) @ Hotel Fortuna (Unbeatable location, 147E)
Spello (3) @ Residenza dei Cappucini Apartment (Top of the hill town, incredible value, 72E)
Orvieto (2) @ B&B Michelanegeli Apartment (Lovely hosts, great location, cute apartment, 95E)
Rome (6) @ Apartment http://www.vrbo.com/423093 (Comfortable new apartment in the heart of the lively Campo de’ Fiori area, 135E)

A July e-mail alert from airfare watchdog for fall travel set everything in motion. www.airfarewatchdog.com A jaw dropping low price to Rome from San Francisco ($856) and I ran with it – British Airways one stop in London.

The flights were great, no complaints, in seat entertainment. On the way back, the Rome to London flight was delayed due to fog at Heathrow, the SFO flight was held for us and others flying in from other locations with delayed landings. One World staff were waiting for our flight (maybe 10 people total from the Rome flight) as soon as we got of the plane and the two of them escorted the group all the way to the another gate to catch the SFO flight, and helped get us through security quickly. I was so impressed with the service from British Airways/Heathrow.

The Facts

This was our second trip to Italy (my third if counting the post -college Grand Tour). Previously, we covered Venice and Tuscany (Florence, Lucca, Siena, San Quirico d'Orcia (and surrounding areas), and San Gimigiango).

I was uncertain how we would fare in Rome. My previous expectations for Venice and Florence had been all wrong! I was so unsure about Venice after reading such spirited and differing opinions and we ended up adoring it. Then I was surprised to find that we did not connect with Florence when so many others seem to love it. I had read a thread where others who did not connect with Florence enjoyed Rome – and that gave me hope. Plus, we love love love Paris, we keep going back even though we have so much more of the world to experience.

Would we like Rome? Vespas zooming? Graffiti? Traffic? Can't cross the street? Gritty?

The answer was a resounding YES!

Not only that, I think it helped push me out my Paris safety box. I was so energized, that on the plane ride home, I was plotting trips to Spain and Slovenia and London (so many great recent trip reports – thank you all). I hope to visit Rome again at the beginning or end of future trips to Italy as we have much more Italian territory to cover.

davispeets

This was the first time I used www.booking.com for Europe and I loved it! It was such an efficient time-saver. No need for back and forth e-mails (with the time delay) with the hotel about things like cancellation policies and availability. I only made refundable reservations.

Being obsessive when it comes to travel planning (half of the fun!), of course I still read all the reviews on Tripadvisor in addition to the booking.com reviews. All reservations were honored, the prices were as quoted, and some apartments were included in the listings. I reconfirmed before leaving, but I don’t think I needed to. Once I had decided on the hotels/apartments, I booked everything in under an hour.

Also, if you use the Tripit App – all the confirmation e-mails from booking.com flow in perfectly – including the price. Tripit keeps a running total on the cost of the trip from the confirmation e-mails you forward. (Nod to the recent topic: Do you really want to know what your trip cost?)

I book one bedroom apartments to give us separate sleeping quarters so we can either sleep in or stay up late without bothering the other person. For us, a central location in a pedestrian friendly area has been key factor to a successful and enjoyable visit to a city or town.

We generally prefer apartment rentals over hotels where possible for the extra space it provides as well as the kitchen facilities – primarily for the ability to make and have coffee first thing in the morning. Coffee is key to a great morning in our home – it is a serious sacred morning ritual. Don’t mess with the coffee, and don’t run out. I took 3 half pound bags of freshly ground coffee with us – neither the B&B nor the Hotel had kettles, but all of the apartments did. We do pour over coffee at home, and were able to do the same in the apartments – I brought the coffee, cones, filters, and s scoop. And, we did almost run out at the end an no my clothes didn't smell of coffee, I put each bag in a ziplock bag.

I made scrambled eggs with smoked pancetta for most breakfasts served along with fruit and yogurt. This trip, we never got tired of eating out for lunch or dinner. Perhaps because an Italian menu was easier for us to decipher? Or, maybe because we never really had a bad meal experience?

davispeets

Airport Transportation

Somewhere along the line I had written down that these two companies had good reviews:

Rome Cabs 50 euros Paypal in advance or cash – no credit card. http://www.romecabs.com/

Roma Shuttle 45 euros http://www.romashuttle.com/

I first tried Rome Cabs, but I had waited too long & they were booked. I got an email back right away, but they didn't suggest an alternate company.

I then emailed Roma Shuttle, and they confirmed both rides: 45 euros for the pick up and 48 euros for the return (an early pick up @ 5:10 am).

Roma Shuttle was 100% reliable and less expensive, but perhaps they don't have the latest cars. Or perhaps I just booked too late! Our Mercedes on pick up was the oldest in the lot of waiting cars with drivers but the older gentleman gave us a nice narrative tour as we went into Rome. On return we had a large van, but he was parked and waiting outside our apartment way before the scheduled 5:10 am pickup- which is a priceless comfort!

denisea

I am in...

Great price on the airfare! Glad to know I am not alone in my planning dedication and euphoria!

We had good experiences with Rome Cabs....glad the alternative worked out for you.

Dying to hear more, especially Orvieto! We loved it.

tower

you stayed at one of my favorites in Perugia..happy you seemed to like it. You're right,magnifcent location on the top deck of the city. Waiting for the rest of your first report...so far, so very good.
stu

2010

We saved Rome for our second trip to Italy. I was surprised how much I loved it - the energy, the history, the people, the food, the shopping!!! It was fantastic!

I am often asked which I like better, Paris or Rome. I will be interested in your impressions!

Waiting for more ...

Leely2

Good report so far, and thanks for all the accommodation links.

I like your safety box comment. Italy and France are my Europe safety boxes; I've been thinking about Spain a lot lately. Time for me to get out of the box.

You might consider Sicily someday--very different from the rest of Italy and easy to pair with some time in Roma.

Looking forward to your next installment!

davispeets

Thanks for the encouragement! I will keep going.

LowCountryIslander

Your report is off to a great start. Looking forward to reading more!

davispeets

Here are direct links to all the accommodations, plus links to the review sites. After I made the reservations, I continued to monitor the reviews - well because I am like that!

I can recommend them all. But, I don't think I would recommend the Cenci B&B to a first time traveler (only 3 rooms on different floors) because you need to be very independent and there are lots of keys to carry - for the building, elevator, room, floor, and more, and owners don't seem to live on site.


Rome - Cenci B&B:

http://www.cencibedandbreakfast.it/
http://www.booking.com/hotel/it/cenc...e5c2608;dcid=2
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev...ome_Lazio.html

Perugia - Hotel Fortuna:

http://www.hotelfortunaperugia.com/
http://www.booking.com/hotel/it/hote...erugia.en.html
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev...ia_Umbria.html

Spello - La Residenza dei Cappuccini:

http://www.residenzadeicappuccini.it...tta/camere.php
http://www.tripadvisor.com/VacationR...ia_Umbria.html
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev...ia_Umbria.html
http://www.booking.com/hotel/it/la-r...7d3e3a31bf27X8

Orvieto - B&B Michelanegeli:

http://www.bbmichelangeli.com/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev...ni_Umbria.html
http://www.booking.com/hotel/it/b-or...e5c2608;dcid=2

Rome - Campo de' Fiori Apartment

http://www.vrbo.com/423093

davispeets

Rome: Cenci B & B (170 Euros)

Right around the corner from the Trevi Fountain. I choose Cenci because it had very good reviews, and looked nice as a one nighter jet lag recovery room. We had the room with the blue-mood lighted shower, a very nice modern bathroom. The one snafu was not getting the wifi password when we checked in – as there was no information in the room.

I choose the Trevi Fountain location because I wanted to be in the historical core, but not too far from Termini Station for the taxi ride to the train station in the morning as we headed off to the three hour train ride to Perugia. And, later our home base would be near the Campo – so this would give me another location to check out.

Based on my one time trip, for a longer term stay I would recommend the Parthenon/Campo/Piazza Navona locations over Trevi/Spanish Steps/Piazzo del Popolo/Vatican locations.

Since we were weren’t arriving in Rome until late in the afternoon – my only plan for that first day was to see the Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps (didn’t happen – went the wrong way! Got to see the Parthenon instead) and eat dinner.

Dinner was il Chianti right across the street from the B&B. It has a large outdoor patio – we like outdoor settings – it seems to be a very popular place and the b&b hostess said that guests enjoyed the place. It was good enough that we ate there again when we found ourselves back near the Trevi Fountain on our return to Rome and needed a place to eat.

Facing the Trevi Fountain Il Chianti is to the right – large covered outdoor patio. Via del Lavatore 81

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...ome_Lazio.html

Learning from my mistakes:

(1) I Better Get in Shape for this Trip! Exercising:

I decided to prepare for the steep hills and stairs of Umbria about two weeks out. Although of course I had been thinking about it since July. I stupidly overdid it the very first time out injuring one of my knees - a sprained knee ligament– doing some ridiculous stretching. I had felt so great and limber. But the next day, I discovered that I did too much. My knee is still messed up and I can’t wear heels. I have been in shoe shame hell, because I don't (yet) own any flat work appropriate shoes!

Don’t over do it – take it slow – everyone knows that – I know that. I would have been better off doing nothing. Ugh.

I handled the walking/stair climbing on the trip with a combination of (1) Ibuprofen, (2) Voltaren Gel (purchased over the counter in Italy – about 11 euros) (3) knee “peas” ice pack from CVS -- another good reason to have an apartment, and (4) a few vicodin pills. I went to the doc before leaving to have the knee looked at – and we discussed the Voltaren Gel which I read about on a thread here (Thanks Densiea!) for once I got to Italy.

(2) Walking after a Long Plane Ride: Swollen Feet and Shoe Selection:

It was warm when we landed and I switched from my Dansko/Sanita clogs with socks into another pair of Dansko Mary Jane sandals (Sam) with no socks that I thought I had properly worn in. But, what I didn’t account for was that my feet were still swollen from the plane ride. So with the strap of the Mary Jane sandal, the heat, and no socks – I got blisters within an hour. I should have kept on my go to clogs and worn socks.

I am really silently upset with myself – Limping? Blisters? And the trip is just beginning! Plus, upon return to Rome I have a fourth story walk up apartment! My one trip a year – I have never had a walking issue before. Are you kidding me?

willowjane

Loving this report! Sorry about the shoes and blisters

denisea

You speak the truth....I have never had more blisters on my feet than I did in Rome. (And funny that the bandaids I had selcted and sorted did not get in my bag and I got to pay for some at the hotel.....i had to scrub like carzy to get the water proof adhesive off my skin....otherwise dirt would stick to itand look so gross!)

Still reading along!

sarge56

Looking forward to the rest of your report. Rome is my favorite place in all the world.

davispeets

Taking the Train to Perugia

In the morning we took a taxi to Termini. With my newly obtained Andrews Federal Credit Union Chip and Pin card (Thanks DebitNM) – now improved with no foreign transaction fee!

http://www.andrewsfcu.org/credit_car...k_rewards.html

I hopefully stepped up to a self-service kiosk to buy the train tickets. It worked! Didn’t ask for a PIN number.

There was a first class option for the first part of the trip which I took – remembering that you did not have to validate in first class, and we would have more space for luggage.

I found the Ron in Rome website super helpful – some of the best nuts and bolts stuff is under “Postings” (How to buy a train ticket, how to ride the bus & metro)

http://www.roninrome.com/site-search

I was feeling pretty smug when I successfully purchased the train tickets, then it went slightly down hill from there.

That leads to:

Learning from my mistakes:

I was looking at the Departure Board and could not see our train (I saw the time 11:28 - but you need to know the last stop! – I think it was Ancona) I think it was also important to know the Train Number to read the Board. I had printed some pages of the schedule from the Trentialia website – but not everything because I was not sure which train we would take. I knew we switched in Foligno and I knew we should get off at the main (second) Perugia stop.

I should have printed all possible options, and then also printed the section with the “information” which shows all the stops along the way so you can gauge where you are.

I looked at the tickets and could not figure anything out: Repeat Look at Board, Look at Tickets, Confusion. Finally, we asked a worker he indicated with his hand that it was really far away. I think it was 1 est track. Where the heck is that? Why can’t it be a normal track number – Why can’t it be plain old “1”. Facing the tracks, that is all the way to the left of the station, and then way the hell down there --past the normal tracks where everyone else is waiting leisurely and all non-panicky for their train ride.

Once we started the long trek down – I didn’t see a validation machine And, my plan to pick up some food for the 2 hour 51 hour train ride failed . Luckily, Cenci provides bottled water in the room, which we took so we had water and I still had some “emergency” food from home.

Ok found the track, now keep walking, of course, looking for the first class section of the train.

Done. On. The Train! Yay!

Next, adventure. The train stops at Orte, First a couple of young girls go by giggling (where they spotters?). Then, a suspicious woman and daughter without luggage or any bags gets on. They sit in the aisle across from us and immediately pull down the shade.

I am now on extra guard. Our messenger bags are on the seats. I am ready for them to try grab and them when the train starts. The train conductor comes up to them, asks for their tickets, and they smile get up and leave.

Lots of people were constantly being kicked off the first class train the entire way.

Later on our way back from Orvieto, that very same woman – this time by herself- got on the train at Orte and handed out the slips of paper – I didn’t touch it watching how the locals just ignored the piece of paper.

Next up – switch trains at Foligno.

Hmmm how do you think that went……

davispeets

Sarge56 one of your posts led me to that vrbo Rome apartment! Thank you - it was a great apartment.

Dayle

davispeets,

I am so happy to see your trip report and your writing is terrific! I remember all your planning and can't wait for the rest of this tale....

Dayle

PS - didn't you take moleskin? That is always my #1 piece of advice!

denisea

Hilarious...we nearly died when we realized our train was on that same track! Quite a hike... The validation machines were to your left, not on the train platform.

Still with you,

kybourbon

>>>>There was a first class option for the first part of the trip which I took – remembering that you did not have to validate in first class, and we would have more space for luggage.<<<

FYI - Class has nothing to do with whether you need to validate a ticket or not in Italy. Tickets, first or second class, with reserved seating do not have to be validated. Tickets, first or second class, without reserved seats must be validated.