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Rome or Siena for Christmas day? relative benefits of each?

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Rome or Siena for Christmas day? relative benefits of each?

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Old Nov 24th, 2013, 04:18 PM
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Rome or Siena for Christmas day? relative benefits of each?

Christmas 2014 (yes, we plan that far ahead) we hope to go to back to Europe for Christmas. My spouse and I will be traveling with our 2 children - they will be 17 (a huge ancient history fan) and 12 (tolerant of nearly anything). They travel well.

3 years ago we spent part of our Christmas holiday in Venice. After going to midnight mass on Christmas eve at St. Mark's, we woke to a concert of church bells the next morning - it was wonderful and a memory that will last our lifetimes.

This time, after a very short visit to friends near Strasbourg, we will get ourselves to Italy. Then the question - do we spend the days surrounding Christmas in Rome or Siena? My dilemma is that I think I might be able to get tickets to midnight mass at St Peter's - which would be beautiful to see under those circumstances - and what a neat (if long) experience - but I also like the idea of a smaller town atmosphere that we would find in Siena.

The overall scheme includes a week in Rome and about 5 days based in Siena - to tour Florence and the surrounding area. We plan to rent apartments or self catering rooms if possible - so restaurant availability during a holiday is not particularly important. I have read in several posts that Rome is crowded over Christmas - is that over the whole holiday (new years too) period? I would imagine so...

I know I'm splitting hairs here - and both would be lovely. But it would be nice to hear opinions from those who've 'been there-done that' - perhaps there are some factors I have not yet considered.

thanks in advance.
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Old Nov 24th, 2013, 05:48 PM
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I would not miss a chance to attend a midnight Christmas mass at St. Peter's, and I'm not Catholic. But I haven't been in either city over the Christmas and New Year holidays, so I can't comment on crowds.

BTW, Siena isn't what I would describe as a "smaller town." It's obviously smaller than Rome, but it's not small. You can base yourself in a quieter neighborhood, but you would still have to deal with some traffic as you come and go on excursions to other towns. Siena has a limited traffic zone (ZTL), so make sure you understand how to reach your lodging and/or parking without violating the zone.
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Old Nov 24th, 2013, 06:48 PM
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Rome is VERY busy over the Christmas/NY period, particularly between 24 Dec to 6 January (Epiphany/Befana) so if you plan to visit St Peter's Square for Midnight Mass you know you'll be there with 80,000 new friends! Having said that, if it's something you would like to do then don't let the crowds put you off. IF you manage to get tickets for Mass INSIDE St Peter's, then there's your answer - Rome it is!

Rome tends to, for the most part, shut down from the afternoon of 24 Dec until 26 Dec, so don't plan any sightseeing inside anywhere on these days. Walking outside will be great as many people will be doing the same and there is a real celebratory and holiday feel to being in Rome at this time of year.

Some restaurants stay open on these days, but some take the opportunity to close for a small break, so if there is a specific place you wanted to eat in, check they will be open (closer to the dates, obviously).

The Vatican is also busy over this whole period as many families visit Rome at this time of year and want to go through the Vatican Museums and St Peter's, so the crowds are particularly full on. And as there are quite a few closed days for the Vatican Museums over these 2 weeks, the days they are open will mean lots of visitors.

Other than that, if you are prepared for quite a few (!) people in town, for things to not be open at your convenience, and to just relax, then you'll enjoy Rome at this time of year.
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Old Nov 24th, 2013, 07:39 PM
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If I had the opportunity to attend Chrstmas Mass at the Vatican, that would be my choice. I'm Catholic but not a regular at Mass. Seem to attend more Masses during vacations then throughout the rest of the year.

That said, I am a cathedrals and castles girl... So when in Siena, I'd recommend the Basilica of San Francesco to see the miracle of the wafers:

http://www.therealpresence.org/eucha..._pdf/Siena.pdf

I don't think a lot of people know of it as it wasn't very crowded at all when I was there. And I just stumbled across it, hadn't read about it anywhere!
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Old Nov 25th, 2013, 01:04 AM
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I have been in Italy most Christmases and I will tell you HANDS DOWN stay in Rome on Christmas. Sienna is an old walled city and although you think its going to be like something out of MY HOUSE IN UMBRIA it is not quaint and actually a little creepy. I never feel comfortable there and the locals are well...not so wonderful. dont get me wrong, all merchants are pleasant albeit with very limited english...but the guys you see hanging around are little on the rough side-I think of dockworker types. Unlike Rome where you can walk around at any hour of the day or night and feel and be safe and be in a glorious place. Mass at St Peters is SO CROWDED and Rome is filled with churches...pick any other one, your hotel can suggest one nearby and you will be amazed at how incredible you will find it. CONTRARY to the posts above---Rome is NOT busy on Christmas Day or Christmas Eve, it is deserted, except of course, St Peters etc. For this reason dont expect to find a taxi on Christmas day or that many shops will be open. reserve a nice dinner in a nice hotel, walk to midnight mass and enjoy the glory of Rome. Siena is also MUCH colder, dark at night, not really decorated for Christmas, easy to get lost and well...you might feel like you are in a dungeon.
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Old Nov 25th, 2013, 02:15 AM
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All good feedback - just what I was looking for. Joannnyc - I'm a castles and churches person too, so the suggestion is much appreciated. I do think that since it's unanimous, I'll plan for Rome and then go to St Peter's only if I can swing getting tickets on the inside. Otherwise we'll choose something else - since my oldest is such a history buff - maybe the Pantheon, I've heard they have Mass on the 24th. Since it will be quiet, I thought Christmas day would be an ideal time to wander the City or see some of the outdoor sights that we could walk to.

My husband and I have been to Rome and Siena before, and I loved Siena - but I can see your point ju1244 - it can be a bit disconcerting. The thing that threw me at first was the fact that there is virtually no grass, anywhere, and it does have a 'close in' feel.

Thanks again!
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Old Nov 25th, 2013, 02:59 AM
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We spent a week in Rome over nye a few years ago and loved it

Our trip report is here
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...s-20112012.cfm

And our pics are here http://www.flickr.com/photos/pug_gir...7637218569466/

We didn't find it overly busy. What we did notice was that many restaurants close over this period so we had to plan ahead if we wanted to eat somewhere in particular.

Enjoy!
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Old Nov 25th, 2013, 03:22 PM
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Thank you Jamikins - loved the photos especially!
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Old Nov 25th, 2013, 10:04 PM
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Thanks so much jujubean! We love Rome at this time of year!
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Old Nov 26th, 2013, 02:02 PM
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Can I ask what area you recommend staying in? I'd like to spend Christmas day wandering. I've been checking ion vrbo and other rental sites, but I have been a bit overwhelmed by the options and I'm not sure where best to stay for our interests. Are you open to an email? I'd love to pick your brain a bit more!
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