Rome – Off the Beaten Path-Trip Report
Jan 25th, 2016, 08:57 AM
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Rome – Off the Beaten Path-Trip Report
Off the beaten path in Rome? Is that possible? Just to clarify, by off the beaten path, I mean less tourists, not no tourists. If you’ve been to Rome, you would understand what I mean. I don’t think there is anywhere in Rome, or Italy, for that matter that is tourist free. (We traveled 6 hours south east from Pompei on a train, then bus to a town called Matera, and still encountered a tour bus.) But I digress.
The Baths of Diocletian – the largest bath complex ever built in Rome. It is located near the Terminale Train Station in RomeThe Baths were built around 300AD. It ¬now houses a church (Santa Maria degli Angelie dei Martiri) in a small portion of its structure. The church was the last structure designed by Michelangelo, but he died before its completion. Within the Baths, a Meridian Line was built. At true noon, sunlight comes through a slit cut through the walls of the building to illuminate the date on the marble floor.
Basilica di San Clemente. It is a church that boasts 4 excavated layers beneath it. The church has no entrance fee but the excavations have an admission fee of 10EU for adults (free for kids under 16 accompanied by their parents). Beware the siesta here. At this church, you can wander through 4 levels of history from a 12th century church to a 4th century church, to a 2nd century pagan temple to 1st century Roman homes and listen to the underground river passing by. Though the cost might seem high by Roman standards, where else can you walk through 4 layers of history under one building? We stopped at the Basilica di San Clemente on our walk to the Colosseum. One bonus walking from the Basilica to the Colosseum is our encounter with the Gladiator’s Tunnels just across the street from the Colosseum.
Just a metro ride away is Ostia Antica, the ancient Roman port from around 400BC which was buried under river silt. Ostia Antica may have been Rome’s first colony. By the time we got to Ostia Antica, we had seen many ruins. But we did spot some “new” things there that we had not seen elsewhere. Ancient latrines, ancient apartment buildings and ancient warehouses were some unique structures that we saw there. Of course, as in most ancient Roman cities, there was a forum, bath houses, temples, and theaters as well. Ostia Antica also has the added bonus of being less crowded than the Colosseum or Pompeii, but still boasts the well-preserved structures
Another metro ride away is Via Appia Antica, THE old Roman road, dubbed the Queen of Roads. Originally built it was 210km, later extended to 560 km and links Rome to Italy’s south eastern coast near the port city of Brindisi. Construction of the road started around 300BC. There is a section of Appia Antica that is pedestrian friendly, where you can walk on cobblestone streets that once saw Roman slaves walking in their final hours.
On the way to Appia Antica, we walked through Parco degli Aquadotti (Aquaduct Park). Aquaduct Park boasts the remnants of several aquaducts built at different times in Roman history. Aquaduct construction started in 312 BC and ended in 226 AD and carried many gallons of water to Roman residents, making it possible for the Romans to have their magnificent baths.
Feel free to stop by my blog at http://budgettravelwithkids.com/blog/rome/ for more details and pictures.
We enjoyed our time in Rome, my husband, our 3 kids and myself. This was my second trip to Rome, the first for my husband and kids. We did all the tourist hotspots as well (i.e. Colosseum, Pantheon, Vatican, Forum, etc) but added these destinations above to escape the crowds. We were glad we did.
The Baths of Diocletian – the largest bath complex ever built in Rome. It is located near the Terminale Train Station in RomeThe Baths were built around 300AD. It ¬now houses a church (Santa Maria degli Angelie dei Martiri) in a small portion of its structure. The church was the last structure designed by Michelangelo, but he died before its completion. Within the Baths, a Meridian Line was built. At true noon, sunlight comes through a slit cut through the walls of the building to illuminate the date on the marble floor.
Basilica di San Clemente. It is a church that boasts 4 excavated layers beneath it. The church has no entrance fee but the excavations have an admission fee of 10EU for adults (free for kids under 16 accompanied by their parents). Beware the siesta here. At this church, you can wander through 4 levels of history from a 12th century church to a 4th century church, to a 2nd century pagan temple to 1st century Roman homes and listen to the underground river passing by. Though the cost might seem high by Roman standards, where else can you walk through 4 layers of history under one building? We stopped at the Basilica di San Clemente on our walk to the Colosseum. One bonus walking from the Basilica to the Colosseum is our encounter with the Gladiator’s Tunnels just across the street from the Colosseum.
Just a metro ride away is Ostia Antica, the ancient Roman port from around 400BC which was buried under river silt. Ostia Antica may have been Rome’s first colony. By the time we got to Ostia Antica, we had seen many ruins. But we did spot some “new” things there that we had not seen elsewhere. Ancient latrines, ancient apartment buildings and ancient warehouses were some unique structures that we saw there. Of course, as in most ancient Roman cities, there was a forum, bath houses, temples, and theaters as well. Ostia Antica also has the added bonus of being less crowded than the Colosseum or Pompeii, but still boasts the well-preserved structures
Another metro ride away is Via Appia Antica, THE old Roman road, dubbed the Queen of Roads. Originally built it was 210km, later extended to 560 km and links Rome to Italy’s south eastern coast near the port city of Brindisi. Construction of the road started around 300BC. There is a section of Appia Antica that is pedestrian friendly, where you can walk on cobblestone streets that once saw Roman slaves walking in their final hours.
On the way to Appia Antica, we walked through Parco degli Aquadotti (Aquaduct Park). Aquaduct Park boasts the remnants of several aquaducts built at different times in Roman history. Aquaduct construction started in 312 BC and ended in 226 AD and carried many gallons of water to Roman residents, making it possible for the Romans to have their magnificent baths.
Feel free to stop by my blog at http://budgettravelwithkids.com/blog/rome/ for more details and pictures.
We enjoyed our time in Rome, my husband, our 3 kids and myself. This was my second trip to Rome, the first for my husband and kids. We did all the tourist hotspots as well (i.e. Colosseum, Pantheon, Vatican, Forum, etc) but added these destinations above to escape the crowds. We were glad we did.
Jan 25th, 2016, 01:43 PM
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I'm glad you saw some of the hidden gems of Rome. I think it's a mistake to go to Rome, especially for just a few days, and then spend the time shuffling along in a pack of fellow tourists. This is exactly what happens at the Vatican Museums, and at the Colosseum to a lesser extent.
The Baths of Diocletian were really huge, much bigger than the present Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri. Piazza della Republica, in front of the basilica, is where the entrance hall to the bath complex was located. The piazza takes the form of the hall. The Museum of the Terme (Baths) di Diocleziano, also near Termini station has another large hall of the baths, to your left as you enter the museum gate. There are two very well-preserved ancient Roman painted tombs inside this hall, but they were brought there from elsewhere in the mid-20th century. There are other remnant of the bath complex in the Termini station area, but nothing much to see.
Termini station actually takes its name from the bath complex. The Latin word for baths was <i>thermae</i> (The English "thermos" comes from the same root.) The Italian word is <i>terme</i>. The whole area was once known as Termini before the station was built.
The meridian line was traced inside the basilica after Michelangelo's day. It was intended to mark the exact time of noon, not the date. Each day the sun touches the line at the point where the current date is marked at exactly noon. When that happened, the bells of the basilica were rung, and this allowed Romans to set their timepieces (which didn't keep very good time in those days). This was the official timekeeper of the city until the mid-19th century, when it replaced by a cannon that is fired on the Janiculum (Gianicolo) Hill at exactly noon. (This cannon is still fired every day.)
Other places that get few visitors are:
<b>Ancient Roman</b>:
The Ara Pacis, the Emperor Augustus' Altar of Peace. There are often interesting art exhibits inside.
Le Case Roman, a complex of Roman houses and shops under the Church of SS. Giovanni e Paolo, on the Caelian (Celio) Hill. The guided tours can be reserved in English, and it's really worth it to make sense of the site. They also have guided tours followed by a meal prepared according to ancient Roman recipes. Their website is only in Italian, but you could ask for information at [email protected] . The website is http://www.caseromane.it/ . You might get a decent translation by pasting the URL into translate.google.com .
Hadrian's Market, across from the Roman Forum. It was mostly used as administrative offices, including the office that oversaw the grain ration. The ground floor had shops open to the street. From the museum, you can access the ancient Via Biberatica, where you can walk on Roman paving stones and peer into the ancient shops. On the door sills, you can see the grooves where they placed the wooden shutters to close the shop at night. The last shutter turned on an axis, with the pole placed in a hole that you can see in the doorsill. The shopkeeper closed this last shutter from the inside, bolted it, and went up the stairs (or ladder) to his living quarters above the shop.
The Domus Romane, under Palazzo Valentini (near the Roman Forum) is the excavation of the home of a well-to-do Roman family, and part of an ancient street. They have an excellent sound-and-light show; you can't visit independently. The visits are available in English. http://www.palazzovalentini.it/domus.../index-en.html
The Baths of Diocletian were really huge, much bigger than the present Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri. Piazza della Republica, in front of the basilica, is where the entrance hall to the bath complex was located. The piazza takes the form of the hall. The Museum of the Terme (Baths) di Diocleziano, also near Termini station has another large hall of the baths, to your left as you enter the museum gate. There are two very well-preserved ancient Roman painted tombs inside this hall, but they were brought there from elsewhere in the mid-20th century. There are other remnant of the bath complex in the Termini station area, but nothing much to see.
Termini station actually takes its name from the bath complex. The Latin word for baths was <i>thermae</i> (The English "thermos" comes from the same root.) The Italian word is <i>terme</i>. The whole area was once known as Termini before the station was built.
The meridian line was traced inside the basilica after Michelangelo's day. It was intended to mark the exact time of noon, not the date. Each day the sun touches the line at the point where the current date is marked at exactly noon. When that happened, the bells of the basilica were rung, and this allowed Romans to set their timepieces (which didn't keep very good time in those days). This was the official timekeeper of the city until the mid-19th century, when it replaced by a cannon that is fired on the Janiculum (Gianicolo) Hill at exactly noon. (This cannon is still fired every day.)
Other places that get few visitors are:
<b>Ancient Roman</b>:
The Ara Pacis, the Emperor Augustus' Altar of Peace. There are often interesting art exhibits inside.
Le Case Roman, a complex of Roman houses and shops under the Church of SS. Giovanni e Paolo, on the Caelian (Celio) Hill. The guided tours can be reserved in English, and it's really worth it to make sense of the site. They also have guided tours followed by a meal prepared according to ancient Roman recipes. Their website is only in Italian, but you could ask for information at [email protected] . The website is http://www.caseromane.it/ . You might get a decent translation by pasting the URL into translate.google.com .
Hadrian's Market, across from the Roman Forum. It was mostly used as administrative offices, including the office that oversaw the grain ration. The ground floor had shops open to the street. From the museum, you can access the ancient Via Biberatica, where you can walk on Roman paving stones and peer into the ancient shops. On the door sills, you can see the grooves where they placed the wooden shutters to close the shop at night. The last shutter turned on an axis, with the pole placed in a hole that you can see in the doorsill. The shopkeeper closed this last shutter from the inside, bolted it, and went up the stairs (or ladder) to his living quarters above the shop.
The Domus Romane, under Palazzo Valentini (near the Roman Forum) is the excavation of the home of a well-to-do Roman family, and part of an ancient street. They have an excellent sound-and-light show; you can't visit independently. The visits are available in English. http://www.palazzovalentini.it/domus.../index-en.html
Jan 25th, 2016, 02:14 PM
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I meant to also mention some wonderful museums that don't require reservations, and are never crowded. These are by no means all of the great museums in Rome. There are others that I haven't seen yet, and some that I don't mention because they're already very well known, and mentioned as "must-sees" in every list of things to see in Rome.
The Capitoline Museums, above the Roman Forum, has an excellent collection of ancient sculpture and other ancient artifacts, including the originals of the two famous statues on the piazza outside, the bronze equestrian statue of the Emperor Marcus Aurelius; and the Capitoline Wolf, nursing the twins Romulus (traditional founder of Rome) and Remus. There is a great view over the Roman Forum from a terrace in the museum, especially impressive when it's lit up, in the winter when it gets dark before the museum closes. There's also a cafeteria inside where you can get a simple meal to take a break while exploring ancient Rome.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (at the Baths) is near Termini station, in the area where the Diocletian Baths were located. This museum is smaller than Capitoline Museums, but has an equally prestigious collection of ancient sculpture, mosaics, and rare Roman wall frescoes, from the Villa of Livia, wife of the Emperor Augustus. There are also household items, including amazingly well-preserved glassware, jewelry, coins, and other household artifacts. There's even a mummy: a little girl found buried in Rome, along with her doll, in the traditional Egyptian fashion. The rest of her family buried in the tomb were not mummified.
The Doria Pamphilj Gallery, in a sumptuous Renaissance palazzo, is still owned, and partly inhabited, by descendants of the powerful Doria Pamphilj family. The family's original art collection is displayed on the walls, and contains some priceless works, but the main attraction is the palazzo itself, with rooms furnished in the styles of different periods. There is an excellent audio tour, narrated by a family member.
The Barberini Gallery has an outstanding collection of Italian Renaissance painting. For those interested in architecture, there are two monumental staircases in the palazzo, one designed by Bernini and one by his archrival Borromeo. There is also a truly amazing ceiling fresco by Piero da Cortona. They provide padded benches so you can lie down to admire it.
The Villa Farnesina, in Trastevere, is a Renaissance villa built for the Farnese family, set in a lovely garden. The main attraction is the frescoed rooms, including some by Raphael. On selected Sundays, they have visits with Renaissance music ensembles. Otherwise, they're closed on Sundays, and they close at 2 PM every day.
The Corsini Gallery, a small museum across from the Villa Farnesina, has a very rich collection of art for such a small museum. You can get a joint ticket to this and the Barberini Gallery for only €12, one of Rome's greatest bargains. A visit would take less than an hour, and it's a good combination with the Villa Farnesina.
The Villa Giulia, on the northern edge of the Villa Borghese park, is one of the world's best museums of the Etruscan civilization. (There is also a great Etruscan collection at the Vatican Museums, and an even better Egyptian collection.)
This really belonged above on the original post, but I'll tack it on here:
The Palatine Hill, perhaps the most beautiful part of ancient Rome, is unfortunatly often overlooked by the tourists mobbing the Colosseum. The same ticket gets you into both the Colosseum and the Roman Forum/Palatine Hill site. The ticket is good for three consecutive days, for one entrance to each of the two sites. The Roman Forum and Palatine Hill are connected internally, so you can enter either one and pass to the other. You can't enter twice, though.
The Capitoline Museums, above the Roman Forum, has an excellent collection of ancient sculpture and other ancient artifacts, including the originals of the two famous statues on the piazza outside, the bronze equestrian statue of the Emperor Marcus Aurelius; and the Capitoline Wolf, nursing the twins Romulus (traditional founder of Rome) and Remus. There is a great view over the Roman Forum from a terrace in the museum, especially impressive when it's lit up, in the winter when it gets dark before the museum closes. There's also a cafeteria inside where you can get a simple meal to take a break while exploring ancient Rome.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (at the Baths) is near Termini station, in the area where the Diocletian Baths were located. This museum is smaller than Capitoline Museums, but has an equally prestigious collection of ancient sculpture, mosaics, and rare Roman wall frescoes, from the Villa of Livia, wife of the Emperor Augustus. There are also household items, including amazingly well-preserved glassware, jewelry, coins, and other household artifacts. There's even a mummy: a little girl found buried in Rome, along with her doll, in the traditional Egyptian fashion. The rest of her family buried in the tomb were not mummified.
The Doria Pamphilj Gallery, in a sumptuous Renaissance palazzo, is still owned, and partly inhabited, by descendants of the powerful Doria Pamphilj family. The family's original art collection is displayed on the walls, and contains some priceless works, but the main attraction is the palazzo itself, with rooms furnished in the styles of different periods. There is an excellent audio tour, narrated by a family member.
The Barberini Gallery has an outstanding collection of Italian Renaissance painting. For those interested in architecture, there are two monumental staircases in the palazzo, one designed by Bernini and one by his archrival Borromeo. There is also a truly amazing ceiling fresco by Piero da Cortona. They provide padded benches so you can lie down to admire it.
The Villa Farnesina, in Trastevere, is a Renaissance villa built for the Farnese family, set in a lovely garden. The main attraction is the frescoed rooms, including some by Raphael. On selected Sundays, they have visits with Renaissance music ensembles. Otherwise, they're closed on Sundays, and they close at 2 PM every day.
The Corsini Gallery, a small museum across from the Villa Farnesina, has a very rich collection of art for such a small museum. You can get a joint ticket to this and the Barberini Gallery for only €12, one of Rome's greatest bargains. A visit would take less than an hour, and it's a good combination with the Villa Farnesina.
The Villa Giulia, on the northern edge of the Villa Borghese park, is one of the world's best museums of the Etruscan civilization. (There is also a great Etruscan collection at the Vatican Museums, and an even better Egyptian collection.)
This really belonged above on the original post, but I'll tack it on here:
The Palatine Hill, perhaps the most beautiful part of ancient Rome, is unfortunatly often overlooked by the tourists mobbing the Colosseum. The same ticket gets you into both the Colosseum and the Roman Forum/Palatine Hill site. The ticket is good for three consecutive days, for one entrance to each of the two sites. The Roman Forum and Palatine Hill are connected internally, so you can enter either one and pass to the other. You can't enter twice, though.
Jan 25th, 2016, 03:30 PM
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Thanks for a great trip report - it was a wonderful read!
In addition to Bvlenci's great ideas for 'under the radar' here are some more:
Palazzo Farnese - a magnificent Renaissance palace with recently restored frescoes by Carracci that rival the Sistine Chapel. It is the French Embassy so can only be toured by bookings.
http://www.inventerrome.com/index.ph...alazzo-farnese
The Scuderie del Quirinale - the former stables of the nearby Quirinale Palace - always interesting temporary exhibitions on here.
http://english.scuderiequirinale.it/...e/categoria-17
Palazzo Colonna - another sumptuous palace. Only open Saturdays but if you're around, definitely worth a look. Some of the rooms remind me of Versailles.
http://www.galleriacolonna.it/en/colonna-palace/
In addition to Bvlenci's great ideas for 'under the radar' here are some more:
Palazzo Farnese - a magnificent Renaissance palace with recently restored frescoes by Carracci that rival the Sistine Chapel. It is the French Embassy so can only be toured by bookings.
http://www.inventerrome.com/index.ph...alazzo-farnese
The Scuderie del Quirinale - the former stables of the nearby Quirinale Palace - always interesting temporary exhibitions on here.
http://english.scuderiequirinale.it/...e/categoria-17
Palazzo Colonna - another sumptuous palace. Only open Saturdays but if you're around, definitely worth a look. Some of the rooms remind me of Versailles.
http://www.galleriacolonna.it/en/colonna-palace/
Jan 28th, 2016, 09:42 PM
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No, we did not go to the Baths of Caracalla. The kids were
"ruined" out and were not going to tolerate another ruin. As our bus went by it though, I wished we could have stopped and visited. It looked magnificent.
"ruined" out and were not going to tolerate another ruin. As our bus went by it though, I wished we could have stopped and visited. It looked magnificent.
