Rome neighborhoods?
 

I am going to Rome for the first time in May and would like recommendations on lovely neighborhoods to explore that are not extremely touristy. Any suggestions?

Gianicolo.

Yes, and the Trastevere right down the hill. Do be aware that while Rome is a much safer city than most American cities, some of its non-touristy neighborhoods are not places to wander around aimlessly after dark.

But also realize that very few Roman neighborhoods, apart from the Trevi Fountain or the Piazza Navona and to some extent the Piazza della Rotonda and the Campo dei Fiore, are completely given over to tourists. If you step out of the Piazza Navona for a walk, you will find yourself in a maze of ancient streets where Romans enjoy socializing and eating (and living).

You will probably see some tourists if you stroll down the via Margutta, but there are interesting art galleries and restaurants in that area.

WillTravel,

where is Gianicolo exactly?

Sandy, if we were in Rome, I could lead you there, but I find it hard to describe how to get there. Does this map help (look at the left)?

http://www.romanreference.com/search/piantrastevere.jpg

Don't miss the Testaccio near the ancient harbour where a large hill named monte Testaccio was entirely built of amphora potsherds. Head for the delicious art nouveau craziness of the Coppedé quarter (piazza Buenos Aires). And generally spoken: you should absolutely make appointments (i.e., make them NOW) with Rome's three different antiquities authorities, one statal, one communal, one ecclesiastical. They have the keys for an incredible number of hidden treasures that very few tourists ever visit, and they're more or less ready to open them for people who show interest - and it's even for free! Get yourself a really good travel book (e.g. the Cadogan guide written by Dana Facaros and Michael Pauls) with explanations of at least some of those unknown marvels (and with hints as to who might be responsible for them). The communal authority is the easiest to deal with. Don't try to make any appointments by email (unless required) - most Italians never read their emails, let alone answer them. Make appointments by phone, and don't be discouraged if you have to call a dozen times till you get hold of the person in charge. It's worth all the efforts.
One of my favourite sights in Rome, to give you but one example, is among those admistrated by the city of Rome (and opened only upon request): the columbarium of Pomponius Hylas, near Porta Latina. A tiny and yet great jewel among Rome's antiquities... and from outside, you wouldn't gess there is anything; the entrance, in a public park, looks like a gardeners' hovel.

I seemed to recall a website listing all the communal antique monuments of Rome - and true! I've found it: http://www2.comune.roma.it/monumenti...u_elenco.html; to take a look at the columbarium of Pomponius Hylas (included in that list) click http://www2.comune.roma.it/monumenti...nio_hylas.html
Good luck, and enjoy Rome, the most interesting city in the whole world!

Thanks for the map Will. I will have to take a stroll through it next time.

Testaccio and the Aventine!