Rome Beyond the Obvious: Things to See, Things to Do
Apr 1st, 2023, 06:31 PM
#41
I just thought of a few other places you might want to visit, given your interest in archaeology.
The Case Romane al Celio, is a group of ancient houses and shops. Over the centuries, the use of the site changed several times, which was one of the most interesting aspects to me. They have guided tours in English. It's partially located under the Church of Saints Giovanni and Paolo, named after two Christian officials who lived in the complex, and who were placed under house arrest, and eventually executed in their own home, under the reign of Julian, who tried to restore the ancient pagan religion to Rome. The church is from the 14th century, but is built on the foundations of an ancient Roman church, parts of which are visible. The church has a beautiful cosmatesque floor (a type of medieval mosaic). A nearby bell tower is built on the remains of the ancient temple of the deified Emperor Claudius.
Trajan's Market, across from the Roman Forum. This was actually an administrative building more than a market, although there were shops on the lower level. You can visit at least two levels of the building. There is a museum there, and there are often temporary exhibits. Especially interesting is the Via Biberatica, an ancient Roman street, with Roman shopfronts. There is a video guide you can rent, and some sort of guide would be very helpful for this complex site.
The Domus Romana, also near the Roman Forum, is the remains of an upper-class Roman dwelling. There is a very well-done guided multimedia tour, available in English several times a day. Since the last time I was there, they expanded the tour to include material about Trajan's Market. I don't know if this is still included, but, if so, you might want to visit this before Trajan's Market.
The Basilica of Santa Sabina is probably the best-preserved ancient Christian basilica in Rome. It has some added medieval elements, but on the whole it gives an excellent idea of the ancient church. A mosaic above the door, shows two women, one in Greek dress and the other in Jewish dress, representing the unity of the two main strongholds of ancient Christianity. There is also a beautiful and unique carved wooden door showing scenes from the Bible. It's the best preserved example of ancient Roman woodcarving, most of which has not survived the centuries.
I would also recommend visiting some of the catacombs. The Catacomb of Priscilla has some excellent Roman Christian art. The catacomb of St. Agnes developed around the tomb of a young girl who was murdered because she refused to marry the son of a Roman official. Her foster sister was also killed, because she refused to stop praying at Agnes' tomb.They were around 12 years old, and their murder horrified even non-Christian Romans. Costanza, the daughter of the Emperor Constantine, had a mausoleum for herself constructed on the grounds of the cemetery. She ended up dying elsewhere, so wasn't buried in her mausoleum, which is now the Church of Santa Costanza. It has a marvellous mosaic frieze, part of which depicts an ancient Roman grape harvest. These two catacombs are relatively uncrowded. You have to take guided tours, but the groups are usually small enough that you can hear the guide and see what she's pointing at.
I may think of more additions to this post!
The Case Romane al Celio, is a group of ancient houses and shops. Over the centuries, the use of the site changed several times, which was one of the most interesting aspects to me. They have guided tours in English. It's partially located under the Church of Saints Giovanni and Paolo, named after two Christian officials who lived in the complex, and who were placed under house arrest, and eventually executed in their own home, under the reign of Julian, who tried to restore the ancient pagan religion to Rome. The church is from the 14th century, but is built on the foundations of an ancient Roman church, parts of which are visible. The church has a beautiful cosmatesque floor (a type of medieval mosaic). A nearby bell tower is built on the remains of the ancient temple of the deified Emperor Claudius.
Trajan's Market, across from the Roman Forum. This was actually an administrative building more than a market, although there were shops on the lower level. You can visit at least two levels of the building. There is a museum there, and there are often temporary exhibits. Especially interesting is the Via Biberatica, an ancient Roman street, with Roman shopfronts. There is a video guide you can rent, and some sort of guide would be very helpful for this complex site.
The Domus Romana, also near the Roman Forum, is the remains of an upper-class Roman dwelling. There is a very well-done guided multimedia tour, available in English several times a day. Since the last time I was there, they expanded the tour to include material about Trajan's Market. I don't know if this is still included, but, if so, you might want to visit this before Trajan's Market.
The Basilica of Santa Sabina is probably the best-preserved ancient Christian basilica in Rome. It has some added medieval elements, but on the whole it gives an excellent idea of the ancient church. A mosaic above the door, shows two women, one in Greek dress and the other in Jewish dress, representing the unity of the two main strongholds of ancient Christianity. There is also a beautiful and unique carved wooden door showing scenes from the Bible. It's the best preserved example of ancient Roman woodcarving, most of which has not survived the centuries.
I would also recommend visiting some of the catacombs. The Catacomb of Priscilla has some excellent Roman Christian art. The catacomb of St. Agnes developed around the tomb of a young girl who was murdered because she refused to marry the son of a Roman official. Her foster sister was also killed, because she refused to stop praying at Agnes' tomb.They were around 12 years old, and their murder horrified even non-Christian Romans. Costanza, the daughter of the Emperor Constantine, had a mausoleum for herself constructed on the grounds of the cemetery. She ended up dying elsewhere, so wasn't buried in her mausoleum, which is now the Church of Santa Costanza. It has a marvellous mosaic frieze, part of which depicts an ancient Roman grape harvest. These two catacombs are relatively uncrowded. You have to take guided tours, but the groups are usually small enough that you can hear the guide and see what she's pointing at.
I may think of more additions to this post!
I have discovered that the Case Romane al Coelio has hours when it is open two days a week, so it is on my list.
Somehow, I have always managed to miss Trajan's Market on my previous visits. I am determined that this will not happen this time. AS for the Domus Romana, I have seen some references to tours of it, but I wasn't sure what it really involved. I'll check it out.
Thanks for the reminder about Santa Sabina. I love paleochristian churches, and it looks like something that could be combined with a visit to Trastevere or the sites SW of the Palatine Hill.
And given that, Santa Costanza is definitely on my list! I wrote an article about her once for an Internet discussion group. She suffered from a lot of dreadful press in antiquity. And the Saint Agnese catacombs are right there. I'll also look into the St. Priscilla Catacombs, although having seen those of St. Sebastian on the Appian Way and the Vatican Necropolis, I kind of have put catacombs in the "been there, done that" category.
Apr 1st, 2023, 07:04 PM
#43
Apr 2nd, 2023, 06:29 AM
#44
<<Thanks, KTravel. I have done all but the Cappuchin Crypt before. I had my fill of Cappuchin crypts many years ago in Palermo. However, I am planning to revisit the underground Necropolis at St. Peter's; the Baths of Diocletian; and I do want to climb to the top of St. Peter's Basilica again -- but I know there are something like 550 steps, and I'm not as young as I was when I first made that climb a little over 40 years ago.>>
Can I suggest taking the lift? It makes things a lot easier when it comes to the harder bit of getting up to the top of the dome. And if you decide not to venture up to the top, there is still plenty to enjoy at that level - the beautiful tiles of the roofs, the eye -level view of the backs of the statues on the top of St Peter's, a cafe, [and a bathroom] and an up close and personal look at the mosaics round the bottom of the dome which really can't be seen very well from ground level.
Can I suggest taking the lift? It makes things a lot easier when it comes to the harder bit of getting up to the top of the dome. And if you decide not to venture up to the top, there is still plenty to enjoy at that level - the beautiful tiles of the roofs, the eye -level view of the backs of the statues on the top of St Peter's, a cafe, [and a bathroom] and an up close and personal look at the mosaics round the bottom of the dome which really can't be seen very well from ground level.
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