Rome and Spoleta? Or not to Spoleta?
 

Hello all,

Eager to hear seasoned advice. Headed to Rome on a short notice trip (leave in less than 3 wks) for five full days and five nights. I have been to Rome before, boyfriend has not. He is interested in taking it all in (while not being a super-tourist and overdoing things), especially the architecture, since he is an architect/artist. I have found that the nicest aspect of travel has been the side trip. For example, did an unforgettable day trip to Giverney from Paris last year. For this reason, I am encouraging him to consider a side trip from Rome to a hill town in Umbria. I like the idea of Spoleto. Do seasoned travelers feel that leaving Rome for a night to travel to Spoleto (either by car or train) and stay a night there would be a refreshing break or a hassle? Also, any thoughts on car vs. train travel would be appreicated!

thanks!

You could also do a day trip to Orvieto, which is only about an hour by train from Rome, and is a lovely small town up on a hill, with fascinating underground spaces and a stunning Duomo that your boyfriend would appreciate as an architect and as an artist. Many good restaurants, too. It would be so much simpler than actually doing an overnight (meaning at least a half-day used up in changing hotels and travel in each direction. I have never gone to Spoleto by train, but it would be a longer trip and require either a bus transfer or renting a car.

Another day trip would be to Tivoli, which is very close to Rome, to see Hadrian's Villa, an enormous ruin of his country getaway. It covers many acres. Also in Tivoli is Villa D'Este, which has gardens in the back with hundreds of imaginative fountains of all sizes and configurations.

Charnee

I would definitely NOT go to Spoleto. We travelled to Assisi, Orvieto, Todi, Montalcino, Montepulciano and other hill towns in Umbria and Tuscnay Hill town and SPpoleto was hte only one we really didnt like. It was very industral and dirty, nothing of real interst.

I would highly recommend Orvieto..very easy from Rome, or the tuscan hill towns. We were so disappointed in Spoleto!!!

On the other hand Villa D'Este in Tivole was a fabulous day trip from Rome!

nmarieke,
I like Spoleto. See my trip report http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35046872 for ideas.

Henry

I would stay in Rome the entire 5 day period myself. Our family recently spent 7 1/2 days there including only one half day side trip to Ostia Antica. My husband and I had both visited Rome before and really enjoyed exploring new sites and introducing our son to the city.
I am posting mostly to recommend a book that I think would interest an architect visiting Rome: The Genius in the Design: Bernini, Borromini and the Rivalry that Transformed Rome by Jake Morrissey.

I second the suggestion for Orvieto. It is a lovely town with very interesting Etruscan history and a beautiful duomo. It is a short trip from Rome and makes a great day trip.

I like Spoleto too, but I'd day-trip by train to Orvieto or just stay put in Rome... unless you would be travelling on from wherever to another destination.

My thoughts mirror Jamikins. Of the towns in Umbria we visited Spoleto was the only town we didn't care for.

I would choose Assisi, a favorite of mine, or Orvieto.

Tracy

Stay in Rome.

Orvieto! One of the mistakes that people make when going to Italy is thinking that Rome IS Italy. You need to get outta town to really experience Italy.

I agree with Jabez, I would stay in Rome. Five days and nights sounds like a long time, but it really isn't when there is so much to see and do (and you'll want opportunities to be able to relax in a cafe without worrying that you're wasting precious time!)

I've taken the train from Spoleto to Rome, if you catch a direct train it's about 90 minutes. Perhaps two hours if you get an indirect line and have to transfer. But you also lose time getting to Termini in Rome and buying tickets; then getting to Spoleto's train station and walking half an hour to get up (and it's a steep climb!) to the old part of Spoleto....that's probably half of your day gone just to transportation.

Spoleto is lovely, as Henry says (and I think he knows Spoleto quite well) but don't cheat yourself by rushing around too much. I'd suggest you and your boyfriend relax and enjoy Rome.

Have a great trip,
Sandra

I really appreciate everyone's feedback. What a rich resource this is! I believe that we will do a day trip to Orvieto. I just want him to see a bit outside of Rome (perhaps to tempt him into returning to Italy soon??!)

Thank you also for the book recommendation. I am going to hunt for it on amazon.

Any other thoughts on what tours/etc would be of interest to an architect would be greatly appreciated!

hi, nmarieke,

the great thing is that you don't need to decide til you get there.

if you want some time looking at the countryside, then Tivoli would be a good choice. ditto, strangely, ostia antica - it's very green. an architect/artist might enjoy both.

in our week in Rome, we never had time to go to Orvieto.

the Blue guides specialise in art/architecture and are very detailed.

have a great time,

regards, ann

Oh! I also want to mention that while he is interested primarily in architecture, I am interested primarily in WINE...Not sure if any of these side trips would allow access to a tasting room or two, given that we will not be renting a car. This may perhaps weigh heavily upon the final decision!

oh, nmarieke, that 's a good one.

I don't remember much about wine tasting in or around Rome.

we had a great meal at a restaurant in Tivoli - just away from the main square, with nice wine.

also there was a wine bar [enotecha]opposite our apartment on the via degli serpenti but our kids weren't interested so we didn't go. [how lame is that?!]

some enoteche named in my guide book are

buccone, via de ripetta

ferrara, via del moro

capranica, piazza of same name

trimani, via gioto

Cavour 313 [this is its address]

cul de sac, piazza pasquino

I'm sure there must be more. Also your hotel concierge may be able to arrange a wine-tasting trip.

have fun,

regards, ann

from rome go to the castelli di roma the castles of rome 2 towns of marino and frascati that are up on very high ground abouve rome. the view from frascati at nite is simply amazing an easy trip and worth it ti expoare and relax and see the scenery also good restauraants

Wine and architecture... OK, here's an idea that hasn't come up yet: Spello.
If you time your departure right (early in the a.m., I'm afraid), there's a direct train that will get you there in 2 hours (as opposed to Orvieto in 1 hour). Spello is a tiny jewel of an Umbrian hill town almost untouched by time (except for one truly ugly building), it's rosy-pink, I would think it's an artist's dream. And it has an extremely good enoteca, Properzio, where you can taste a sublime Umbrian red, Sagrantino di Montefalco. (Orvieto's local wine is a so-so white.) Don't expect it to be free, and don't even expect it to be cheap, but you will always remember it.
And, again if you time it right, you can take a direct train back that will get you to Rome in time for dinner.

How can anyone describe Spoleto as industrial?? Have literally just got back from Spoleto where we had a magical 4 days staying in Wallace's Arthouse (check tripadvisor reviews). Spoleto has a direct train service to Rome Termini which takes 90 mins. It's about 15 min walk from the train station to the lovely Duomo or take a frequent bus to Piazza della Liberta.
There's some great restaurants and most places serve the sagrantino wine from Montefalco.