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Rome & Paris: Gregorian Chants
So, where can I partake of some awsome church music in these two fine cities?
I thought Notre Dame had a sunday service at 0930 or 1030? |
By far the most impressive time to visit Notre Dame is during Mass. The great organ, the choir, and the rich French voice of the priest saying mass echoing through the cavernous Gothic sanctuary is a truly moving experience. Hundreds of votive candles will greet you as you enter (for 2 Euros each, you can add your own.) Incense hangs in the air and the ambiance of the whole scene is nearly surreal. The best times on Sundays for Mass are 10am (Gregorian chants); 11:30am (with the choir); 12:45am (chanter), and 6:30 pm (choir). You can also catch an organ recital on Sundays and church holidays at 5:15pm.
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If your travels take you to Florence, visit San Miniato. The Benedictine monks perform Gregorian chants every evening I believe. Also, they sell the herbs and potions they grow and make.
I am not Catholic but found it quite moving. |
Degas, I read somewhere (?) and made a note that one can hear Gregorian Chants in Paris at:
-- Chapelle du Val-de-Grâce. 1, pl A. Laveran, 5e, 01 40 51 47 00 or 01 40 51 47 28; Open 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. daily -- Église Saint-Nicholas-du Chardonnet. 23, r des Bernadins. 5e 01 44 27 08 90 I've not phoned yet to check times but plan to do so when next in Paris. |
I bookmarked this for our recent trip to Rome but didn't get a chance to go:
http://www.osb-international.info/sa...gia/index.html Hopefully someone can give you first-hand advice about Sant'Anselmo. |
Thanks for the feedback.
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How early, would one have to get to Notre Dame, in order to get in , for the 10 AM service?
I ask, because we were too late in Cambridge, even though arriving 45 minutes early. Thanks, g |
I don't know how early you would need to get to ND for Mass, but on a regular Sunday, I don't think you would be closed out. On special holidays, I could see that, but Gregorian Chant and masses aren't a big tourist attraction for most people that it's a problem. I've known people who have gone for that and just got there a little early like you would for any service.
There are other places that have some masses with gregorian chant, although it is a specialty and not something many choirs practice regularly. There is a special choir that sometimes has concerts in Paris (Choeur Gregorien de Paris) the chapel in Notre Dame du Val de Grace, as someone mentioned above. When they do sing in there, it is usually 9 am. There are other churches that have such masses, I found a couple. Those might be nice for a change, especially since most tourists will have seen ND some other time. A couple central ones are: St Francois Xavier in the 7th arr (near metro of same name). I'd probably go there -- that is a 19th century church (Italian Ren) with some beautiful chapels and it's in a chi chi area so you figure they have enough money to keep things up. Their Gregorian mass is at 9:00 in the Chapelle de la Vierge. Another one is also in a somewhat posh area that could be a change of pace for many -- just a little north of Alma Marceau metro stop on the Right Bank. That is St Pierre de Chaillot (31 ave Marceau, 16e). It's a newer church (early 20th Cen), but attractive. Their Greg. mass is at 7 pm on Sunday. That's a good variety of times, also, to help choose. I don't know about one at St Nicholas close to the Seine. |
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