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Rome 2015- A Spring Break Adventure!

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Rome 2015- A Spring Break Adventure!

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Old Apr 26th, 2015, 04:32 PM
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This trip report was great! It made me want to visit Rome again! Thanks for posting.
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Old Apr 26th, 2015, 11:04 PM
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Thanks everyone for reading! I have a couple more posts to finish up so it's not over yet......


Day 8- Roscioli bakery- St. Peter’s Basilica- Caffe Eustachio and more

Today would be our last day of sightseeing before leaving tomorrow. I was up earlier than usual and headed off to the Antico Forno Roscioli (the Roscioli bakery) to check a Cornetto off from my bucket list. http://www.anticofornoroscioli.it/

I don’t remember which came first, the Salumeria Roscioli deli/restaurant or the Antico Forno Roscioli but both are owned by the same owner, both highly regarded, and both in “our” neighborhood. Score! From our apartment the bakery was right around the corner and a few shops away down the street. Soooo convenient!

I was one of the first patrons in that morning. Paper bags lined the store filled with fresh loaves of bread ready to be picked up by the restaurants (I assume they were for restaurants due to the quantity in the bags). Other morning breads and treats were in the cases. I asked for quattro Cornetti chocolatto. I had no idea how to ask for it in Italian so did my best! The person behind the counter went to the back and came out with four giant cornetto(i). I had never tasted one before so didn’t know if they were sweet or bread-like so asked for four bread rolls to go with. We had some leftover peach preserves (that were delicious) which made a nice topping for any bread. The total for my breakfast goodies was €5.66. I paid and was on my way back to the apartment.

We roused the family for breakfast and we all took our first bites of our cornettos. I read later that cornettos can vary in how they are made. While they look like a croissant (sort of) this one was much less buttery in flavor and more flaky. I read that they actually have more butter than a croissant, so go figure! The first bite was close to heaven. This cornetto had a slight glaze on the top and inside was a golden pale orange color. The pale orange gave way to an orange essence of flavor. Then came the chocolate! It was a wonderful blend of flavors. The chocolate was actually Nutella, which I am not a fan of, but it was very good blended with this orange. DH thought his was overpowered by the Nutella and he scooped out some of his and finished the rest of the cornetto. The kids gobbled theirs down too. I’ve tried Google to find information about orange infused cornetto but haven’t had any luck finding anything. I wasn’t sure if this is standard or something special this bakery makes. In Sweden we have a chocolate treat called “Romerska bågar”. The translation is off but they are flat orange shaped slices of orange infused chocolate. Now we know where they came from.

By now it was after 9 a.m. and since today was our day to see St. Peter’s Basilica it was best we get going early. We set off on foot around 9.30 a.m.. Another gorgeous sunny day! We certainly lucked out this trip with the weather! We took the stroll leisurely and before 10 a.m. we arrived and got in line. It was a Saturday and the line snaked from the Security Check Point to ALL the way around the square to the other side. We had no choice but to get in line. There were signs saying the entry closed at 12.30 that day so we were wondering if we’d make it in time but the lines actually moved fairly quickly. I brought bottles of water, we chatted and after a while the girls and I stepped out to find the toilets before entering the Basilica. We knew where they were from the other day so DH and I had the girls go together first while we held our place in line. The girls got back so I took my turn and got in the line for the toilets. A group of tourists didn’t read the signs (written in their language) and blew past the queue to enter through the exit side. The toilet attendant got very fierce and barked at them in Italian and they sheepishly took their place in line with the rest of us. By the time I got back to my family the line had moved up and it was just a short distance to the security checkpoint. We removed purses, backpacks and I think our jackets and put them thru the machine. Walked through security and paused to take a look at the square from this vantage point on our way into the Basilica. I wanted to see what the Pope could see since we missed him on Wednesday. There were chairs lined all around for the upcoming service. The entry line was still snaked around the square -but we were in!

It was very large and very beautiful inside as one could imagine. We entered into a side chapel used for prayer. Peaceful and quiet. We walked past a permanent memorial of a priest that appeared to be embalmed laying in a glass cased casket. We saw a similar memorial at another church and I didn’t understand who or what that was about. There was a service going on in the main Basilica for what appeared to be visiting priests and nuns from around the world. We listened to the service (didn’t understand what was going on) and listened to the music. Soon the service was finished. There were ropes and security guards that had cordoned off the front section of the church so we couldn’t be very close. The music piped louder and dozens and dozens of robed-clad priests filed out. The music got softer and stopped and then the nuns followed. I wondered why the priests got the fanfare and not the nuns? It got me thinking…. DH and I whispered quietly to each other about churches and power and money. We browsed around some more and left after about 30 minutes. I know- people spend hours in there but not us. It was an option to climb the steps to the dome but we opted out. I thought about the neighboring church to our Rome apartment, Sta Andrea delle Valle and thought that was equally beautiful to the St. Peter’s Basilica. A size difference, but just as beautiful.

By now it was time for a coffee. Next on my personal bucket list was a cafe I had seen in passing from our rainy first day in Rome, the Sant’Eustachio Caffe. The link is in several languages but I like the look of Italian so here it is:

http://www.santeustachioilcaffe.it/

From the outside it looked like a smallish stand-up coffee bar kind of place and the people were lined out the door. At that time I was with my girls and since were we cold to the bone we opted to go home. After the Vatican, I was happy to make it back since I read that it is one of Rome’s oldest and most established coffee bars- supposedly the best espresso in Rome. I knew where to find it so from the Vatican we walked down the Corso Vittorio Emanuele and took a left at the Benetton store. It was just down from there to the Piazza St. Eustachio. Since the day was beautiful we opted to find a table outside. The tables were reserved for table service and we felt like being served rather than standing up. Some tourists didn’t see this large yellow sign on the tables saying “reserved for table service” and plopped themselves down after going inside for their coffees. The single waitress was busy politely shooing those people from the tables. She brought over a menu which we took a look at. All sorts of choices, all pictured on the menu but not much in the way of descriptions or sizes. There were too many coffees to ask about so DH and I blindly made our selection which happened to be the same. It took a while for the coffees to arrive and they came on a silver tray with sugars and spoons and each a glass of water. Much appreciated! DH and I ordered something similar to a cappuccino but not. It was served in a larger than espresso sized mug and had some milk foam on top with cocoa powder. No, not a macchiato… don’t know. I later saw some Italians ordered a warm coffee drink in a glass mug. This was not pictured on the menu so wonder what they ordered. It pays to be a local, I guess. The coffees went down quickly and I here’s where I miss the American bottomless pot of coffee. haha. The girls each had a frappino?- cold, sweet and frothy. Not to be confused with a frappuccino which is an icy drink. I now know where Starbucks got their idea from even though I couldn’t make sense of the sorts the Eustachio served. It was an expensive coffee stop but leisurely and a nice atmosphere in the square. I would liked to haved tasted more coffee and less foam for my money. Next time...

to be continued…..
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Old Apr 27th, 2015, 05:04 AM
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Wonderful report, thank you!
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Old Apr 28th, 2015, 04:04 AM
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Thank you, Louisa! I'm glad you've enjoyed it. I need to get it finished up soon!
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Old May 1st, 2015, 07:37 AM
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Finecheapboxofwine this is a very nice trip report. I am planning on going to Rome for Christmas this year and we also have about 9 full days. I noticed you wrote about walking....did you guys ever took the bus or metro anywhere?
Thank you
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Old May 1st, 2015, 08:31 AM
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Day 8 continued…. Shop and Stroll

After our coffees it was time to stroll onward. DD1 wanted to show DD2 the shops she had missed when she was home sick a couple of days ago. So we headed down the Via Corso toward Piazza di Popolo. By now this would be our third trip toward this destination- part of Rome I didn’t think about before. I don’t know- it looked so far away on the map when in reality was really doable in terms of walking.

The day sunny. A Saturday so the street was filled. We found the shops we were looking for and DD2 found a couple of cute tops. We back tracked past the Spanish Steps again and turned into the pedestrian street, Via Condotti. This was crowded so we turned again onto a really nice pedestrian street, the Via Borgonona. This street included upscale boutiques and a few unique cafes- the kind of a “ladies who lunch” type.

We continued a slow walk and look-see on over towards the Piazza Navona. By this time we were hungry and decided to take advantage of our last lunch in Rome and select a restaurant on the Piazza. The sun was warm so we picked the shady side of the Piazza. I had no recommendations for a restaurant so our pick was based solely on the menu and restaurant appearance. The “hosts” were out in droves trying to lure us into their restaurant. I believe that there’s so much competition amongst all the different restaurants and cafes that they are happy to snare a customer and actually treat you quite well. Some places were more filled than others. We said, "no thank you" to one and said, "yes" to the next door neighbor called, Tre Scalini.

We placed our order- DH seafood pasta; me Pizza Bresaola and the girls a pizza each. They ordered sodas and DH and I a beer. It was a beer kind of day! We were seated next to a young Italian couple. The young man was wearing one of those silk neck scarves that could match a silk pocket square if he had one. He was smoking some awful cigar smelling cigarettes. Chain smoking more like it- switching between the smelly to the less smelly. Finally they paid their bill and left before our food arrived.

For being on the touristy Piazza I expected just “ok” food, that we were willing to sacrifice for the view of the Piazza Navona, but our food was actually very good. DH’s pasta had a generous portion of seafood. I really enjoyed the bresaola on my pizza. It was very tender and was topped with fresh ricola, which I love. The girls ordered a margherita pizza and enjoyed theirs. Getting customers for these restaurants if is kind of “dog eat dog”, but when I saw our pizzas being delivered from the first place we said no to, the neighbouring place, I didn’t feel soooo bad. We had a good laugh because the waiters would stand in the middle of the walk path trying to get people in. They would give each other the eye and then one would beeline toward the most attractive women. Then they lined the path and turn our direction and watched us eat! Entertainment for everyone. Lunch was soon over so we stopped to watch an entertainer in the Piazza before walking back to our apartment.

Once we got home we put our feet up a while and had to pack for the trip home. I needed to get back to a little boutique I had seen which was across from the Hosteria Farnese in Campo di Fiori. There was a necklace there calling my name and since the boutique was closed the first time I saw the jewelry in the window I would take a second chance. I left the family reading and resting and walked over and the boutique was open. I decided on the necklace which is handcrafted in gold and then weaved in some traditional Sicilian tiny lace pieces. It makes for a lovely summer piece and I was happy to finally find something for me! The boutique didn’t take a credit card but I found a cash machine close by. There are several cash machines on the Corso Vittorio Emanuelle which was so convenient for us.

We had just a few bits in the fridge to finish up and for dinner so I thought to pop into the grocery to find some lite accompaniment for supper. I passed the Roscioli bakery again and went in to see if anything looked good. An Italian Mom was ordering one of those slices from a larger pizza. The guy behind the counter had a big butcher knife and he hacked off the slice according to her order. After she paid she stood out on the street and ate it with her young son. We had that pizza for lunch so moved on to the grocery. I browsed around and wanted to see if I could find a square long pasta that my daughter ate one day at a restaurant. I didn’t see it so found some star shaped pasta instead. (Nice to have at home to add to broth during the cold season.) There wasn’t anything soooo unique that I couldn’t buy it in Sweden so I didn’t fill my cart with much in terms of food. I selected a few cheeses and some fruit for dinner. After we ate I decided that Italy has the best hard parmigiano and mozzarella but the others didn’t jump out as great.

We ate our meal and then time to pack up. We were all feeling like it was time to go home. I think we all were super satisfied by this trip to Rome and will definitely get back again. I could even see taking the kids there by myself if the opportunity presented itself. It was that comfortable. But we usually see new places by the time that opportunity arrives so maybe a new destination in Italy to explore.

We couldn’t have been more happy with our apartment and the location, Campo di Fiori. DH liked the neighborhood because it felt real. It was touristy in some aspects but also felt like a living and working neighborhood. I don’t know how that is in reality but I understand what he was saying. The only downsides to the actual apartment were in the kitchen where the tools were understocked. Would have been nice with a knife more than a bread knife and small steak knife for prep and cooking. Not because I couldn’t use what was there but thinking of safety too. A set of two hot pads would have been helpful especially when emptying the pasta pots. We did use the kitchen a lot and it was well equipped with pots, pans, dishes and cutlery but only missing those other things.
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Old May 1st, 2015, 08:40 AM
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Day 9 Travel Day

Our intercontinental Europe flight left from Terminal 3 at noon. I had read that the lines for security can be horrible so didn’t want to chance it and be late. We booked a cab that was waiting for us at 8.00 a.m. A short drive to the airport and we were there before 9 a.m. We checked in and headed for security. The lines were not so bad. Security was actually a breeze! DH said it was the most efficient security check he’s been through! I must have misread about the horrible lines and security or at least it wasn’t for this intercontinental terminal. Well, it was best to be there and we’d would have to wait anyway. We had a two hour wait before we would be able to know which gate so we found some benches and took turns window shopping. Time to board. On-time and off we were to our layover place in Munich. Two hours there and then we were back home in Sweden. Our travel day ended up to be quite long and I would try to find a more efficient way to get to Rome next time.

Thank you for reading my Trip Report. I recommend all to write a TR as it brings it all together and I now I have it documented. My kids have enjoyed reading it too! Thanks to the Fodorites who gave me advice on transport, pre-booking of the sights and general information. No names mentioned/no names forgotten….
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Old May 1st, 2015, 08:43 AM
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Some might find it helpful to see what one can pack in a carryon for nine days. Here's my carryon for this Spring trip to Rome. I'm cutting and pasting it from a TR I posted on the Helpful Hints and Tips forum on Fodor's.

We are a family of four who travelled to Rome for nine days/two of which were travel days. It was Springtime and the weather was around 15 C /65 F during the day. We each packed a carryon and flew two flights within Europe so I knew the luggage compartment space would be small and I didn't want to to be stressed trying to fit my bag. I opted against a roll on carryon for a soft sided shoulder bag for this reason. I was pleased with my packing- selected neutrals and basics and could fit it all in. Here are the contents of my bag:

3 pants: *1 jeans, 1 stretch jeans and *1 black stretch jeans
2 cardigans: 1 gray, *1 lacy blue
1 white blouse that was designed to be "skrinkled together" after washing
*1 light blue long sleeve wrap sweater
1 plain gray t
1 blue flowered t
1 white long sleeve t for layering or bedtime if I felt cold
1 white tank
1 pajamas top and bottom
1 bra
4 underwear
1 pair of shoes
toiletry kit

Here's what I wore on the plane:
Greenish colored stretch jeans
Blue 3/4 sleeve blouse
Black tank top
Black cardigan
Large scarf designed in warm spring colors that looked nice with everything
Rain jacket- a last minute purchase that I'm so happy I had with me.
New Balance shoes- not the prettiest but worked on that cobblestone for my flat feet

Suggestions for future packing:
I never wore the lacey cardigan and the black stretch jeans.
The regular jeans I wore two days and they were starting to look baggy. I recommend packing pants with a bit of stretch as they look and feel better.
I could have gotten by with wearing one pair of pants and packing two for that amount of time. I actually put the black ones in at the last moment because I had room but didn't wear them.
I wore the layering long sleeve top and was lucky to have that along for that rainy day as it was pretty drafty and cold in some of the churches and on the streets that day.
I maybe could have done without the light blue wrap sweater but it was a different look to the cardigans and tops.

We had a laundry machine in the apartment which we used twice when the laundry bag started looking full. Was very happy to have that available!
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Old May 1st, 2015, 08:47 AM
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Ticalinda- No, we did not take the bus or taxi at all except for to and from the airport! I was surprised but that's how my husband rolls! And good thing too because we saw soooo much more on foot than if we took transport. I guess it all depends on the traveller and conditions. But, the weather was very nice except for one rainy day so we were comfortable. My feet WERE killing me after a day pounding the pavement but I have problem feet anyway so that was no surprise. I quickly recovered enough to get back at it the next days. I wore New Balance and if I could have found new pair in Sweden in my size before this trip I would have bought them. (Will have to wait till I get to the US for that this summer.)
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Old May 2nd, 2015, 10:40 AM
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Thank you Finecheapboxofwine...that's all what I needed to know...I like to walk...and you are right, by foot you can get to see more and that's what I want too
Tica
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