Roma Suggestions from Dean
 

Hi <BR> <BR>Rome suggestions in 7 parts <BR> <BR>Rome is one of the great cities in the world. Imaging the energy of Manhattan or San Francisco with Roman ruins mixed in. You can be walking through a business oriented neighborhood and come across the excavation of a Roman ruin. Be warned, in the area of the Vatican or any of the other great monuments, everything is very expensive and the food is lousy. You will pay L4000 for a half liter of water or L10,000 for a beer while the going rates for these are L1,000 and L4,000 respectively in the less touristy spots. The areas you need to watch are the Vatican, around the Coliseum and on Piazza Navona. <BR> <BR> <BR>We have visited Rome both in the summer and in the fall. We have never been there in spring when so many spring vegetables are featured on the menu. In favor of a fall visit is that it is less crowded and Roman food is wonderful on a cold night. But in July, the city becomes one giant music hall. You can enjoy any style of music from jazz to classical to rock. This last July, we could have gont to see Dylan, Bill Watrous (a jazz trombonist), opera, classical music all in historic settings. Most concerts cost L30,000 to L45,000 ($15.00 to 20.00 US) and tickets are easy to get. Just look at the posters everywhere or stop in at a tourist office. In fact you need to do both as there is no one place to get all the information centrally. <BR> <BR>Here is the Url for a site which lets you pre book most Rome sights: <BR> <BR>http://www.romeguide.it/ <BR> <BR>very slow site! <BR> <BR>Here are some of the things we loved to do in our 3 visits to Roma: <BR> <BR>Area Sacra Argentina. Where else can you find a feral cat sanctuary in collection of 4 over 2000 year old temples? Only in Rome. This is a great spot to see at night when the ruins are lit up, but you have to return during the day to see the cats who will one day rule Rome again. I list this first not because it is the most important site to see but because it captures the many contrasts that make up Rome. <BR> <BR>Therme di Caracalla (Caracalla's bath)-- this sight will give you real insight into what it was like being a roman citizen. 6,000 people a day came here to chat, play games and eat. The audio program here was one of the best we have ever used in Italy. By the way, purchase the combination ticket here and get reduced price entrance to 7 archeological sights including the Coliseum. That way you avoid the line at the Coliseum. <BR>

Rome part 2 <BR> <BR>The next 4 are all in the same general vicinity around the coliseum. The Coliseum is the biggerst tourist sight in Italy but is well worth it. There is nothing I can add to all the words written elsewhere about the Coliseum. Just make sure you carry in food and water to avoid the ripoff of the food in the area. <BR> <BR> <BR>Foro Palantino e Romano- Most people see the Roman forum. But few go up the hill to the Palantine. Here you can tour/see the ruins of the homes of the rulers of Imperial Rome. There is a book available at the ticket boot called Archaeological Rome with pictures of the ruins today and plastic overlays showing you how they looked originally. It is a superb aid to visiting the ruins. After the Foro Romano, exit north to the Capitoline Museums. You will be overwhelmed by the endless array of busts (mostly unlabeled) and other Roman art but there are many gems. The Piazza was designed by Michelangelo and is a must for a few minutes of just sitting and watching the workd go by. <BR> <BR>Domus Aurea- Neros Golden House. Underground excavations of Nero’s home. The scale will stun you. This is a very wonderful sight to see. You must pre book. <BR> <BR> <BR>San Clemente- an 11th century basilica that would be a must see on its own. But it is built atop a 4th century Christian church which was built atop a 4th century BC Mithraim (sp?). There is an early acquaduct that may even date back to Etruscan times. As you walk from the Coliseum to S. Clemente you will pass nameless trattorie where you can dine for next to nothing and eat well. We had pasta for 4 with almost drinkable house wine all for L45,000. What a bargain for huge plates of delicious penne amatricianna and arrabiata (spicy tomato sauces with and without pancetta). <BR> <BR>The Vatican Museum—call and schedule a tour thru the vatican museum itself. They have English language guided tours. Ours was taught by a retired Florentine school teacher with an art history degree. She was wonderful and the 90 minute tour was just perfect. After the tour you can return to the parts you love and commune with your favorite art or you can exit. <BR>

Rome part 3 of 6 <BR> <BR>Galleria Borghese- you have to reserve in advance. You will be admitted for a 2 hour visit which includes only 30 minutes for the amazing paintings on the second floor. They have an unbelievable aray of Titians, Caravaggio’s, Bernini’s etc. This is one of the most jammed packed museums you will ever visit. Almost every sculpture is a masterpiece and the painting collection has an amazing number of masterpieces. There are a few rooms upstairs that lose my interest but I am in love with titains sacred and profane love, one of 4 from my favorite artist in just one room! The snack bar there is very civilized and the park surrounding the Galleria is a tranquil and delightful respite of the noise and hustle of Roma. Even though entry is limited, because they only allow groups in at 2 hour intervals it can feel crowded. Do what we do, immediately go to the second floor and start from the back. After you 30 minutes there you will go back down stairs and can see the down stairs in order and relatively crowd free. That way you can walk around the canova’s and bernini’s and really see them from all sides. <BR> <BR>Museo Etrusca at Villa Giulia- Not far from the Villa Borghese is the Villa Giulia, home to the most amazing collection of Etruscan artifacts I have yet seen. There are many an Etruscan museum with far more artifacts but none have so many major works. We visited while half the exhibits were “chiuso per restaurao” and were overwhelmed by the stunning art. We will go back soon. Its best just to wander through and stop at the stuff that interests you most. Don’t ven try to take it all in in one setting. The Villa itself is stunning with its grotto and Mythraium and the small replica of an Etruscan temple in one of the courtyards. If the restauration in still not complete when you visit you will have the added attraction of being able to see the artisans at work as well. <BR> <BR>Ara Pacis and the Mauseleo di Augosto These monuments are realted to August the first Emperor of Imperial Rome. It is said that August inherited a city of Brick and left it a city of marble. The Ara Pacsis is an altar of Roman peace. Rome of August was the workd’s sole superpower and its impreial reach made Rome the richese city of the world. This is a wondrfully carves screen which shows the imperial family and court in procession. The Mauseleo is an Etruscan style tomb where Augustus and his family were interred. Both have been under renovation so check before you go although both are impressive even if you can’t go in. <BR>

Rome part 4 <BR> <BR>You should also plan a day trip to Tarquinia and Cerveteri for the Etruscan tombs. You will not believe it till you are there and actually experience it for yourself. Cerveteri is a huge necropolis or city of the dead. And it literally is. It is a sight maybe 3 miles long by as much as a half a mile wide composed only of tombs. The city spans hundreds of years so you can see how the tombs evolved over the centuries. Interesting, the earlier tombs are the largest, round chambers topped with earthen domes. Some are large enough to have small grovces of trees growing on the top. The newer tombs are more elaborately carved, yet smaller. Tarquinia is famous for its painted tombs. There is also a worthwhile Museum in Tarquinia most famous for the winged horses. We also loved the eortic art on the pottery. The Etruscan’s were lusty folk! <BR> <BR> <BR>Rome is not all museums and churches and ruins. You must take care of the soul and body as well. Here are a few of our favorite eating places: <BR> <BR>Campo di Fiori for the morning market. Be sure to stop off at Il Forno di Campo di Fiori for Pizza Bianco o Rosso or a sweet treat like the torte di ricotta. There are also many bars surrounding the Campo for caffe and paste (pastries). We always come to Campo di Fiore, even if we are not staying where we can cook, for fruit and other picnic supplies. A few baskets of frutti di bosco (wild berries) makes for a wonderful breakfast. But if we are in an apartment with a kitchen, the Campo is a daily stop for us. <BR> <BR>Walking in Trastevere- Trastevere is Italian for across the Tiber. It has the feel of what the Village has to New York. It’s a vibrant area with a high concentration of younger Romans. There are art shops and great food stores. It is a warren of tiny streets and beautiful and inviting piazze. We found a wonderful “Paleo Christian” basilica along Viale Trasevere where you can view the body of a beatified women under glass. She died in the early part of this century and her body has nor decomposed. Be sure to stop at the many frutteria stands and try some fresh fruit to refresh yourself as you wander. Also trek up the Gianicolo. <BR> <BR>Volpetti (in Testaccio) for a look at the best cheese shop I have ever been in. Watch your wallet if you love cheese as they will sell you enough to feed an army. They specialize in more traditional producers who still hand make their cheeses. There is also carry out food such as lasagne, baked pasta, porchetta. Attached is a small snack bar as well. <BR> <BR>

Rome part 5 <BR> <BR>Checchino dal 1887- the place to go to dine on deconstructed cow. They serve every part of the cow you thought was edible and some that you never would have thought of. For the squeamish, they have lovely lamb stew and other run of the mill parts. But if you love the odds and ends of the animal, here is you place. Very traditional Roman food. Highly recommended. <BR> <BR> <BR>Monte Testaccio and the Testaccio market – Checchino is lovcated in a trash dump. Truly! It is locvated in a human constructed mound called Monte Testaccio. This is where the Romans imported wines and dumped their broken amphorae. The pile grew into a large hill which over time became covered with soil, grass and trees. Business are carved into the hill. This ares is very lively at night with myriad nightclubs. During the day the area also has the Testaccio market. Much more traditional than Campo di Fiore, this market is frequented by the sterotypic grandmoms and grand pas and local housewives. It’s a must see but I liked the food quality much better at Campo di Fiori. <BR> <BR>La Rosetta- right around the corner from the Pantheon, this is one of the great seafood restaurants of all time. Expect to pay a bundle but also expect perfection. Start with the mixed antipasti, a procession of 13 or so small plates of seafood: raw, marinated, cooked. All are very simple and screamingly fresh. You will feast on squid, clams, shrimp, langustino and fin fish in a mind boggling array of preparations that never hide the fresh flavor if the fish. Skip the pasta or risotto course unless you are truly starved and have a whole fish baked in salt. The wine list is filled with great whites from Alto Adige and Friuli. I especially love either an Alto Adige gewürztraminer (very aromatic, lush and intense yet not sweet like American versions and not as heavy as Alsatian, perfect for the varied and abundant flavors of a meal at La Rosetta, or a Tocai Friulano. The staff will help you find a specific producer. They have a changing selection because the restaurant chooses many wines from tiny producers with very limited quantities. This is a great wine list to splurge on). Desserts are wonderful as well. Massimo is the chef and you will see him during your dinner. In fact he had to make some emergency electrical repairs during our dinner. Dinner for 4 was about $125.00 per person with one great bottle of wine, three courses and a dessert each. We always schedule a meal at La Rosetta on our LAST night in Rome so we won’t be tempted to dine there more than once. <BR>

Rome part 6 <BR> <BR>Agata e Romeo- in a very non touristed neighborhood is Agata e Romeo. This is a major gastronomic treat. Very much in the modern style of Italian cuisine, it is worth seeking out and reserving. Be sure to reserve well in advance as its tiny. You will first need to be buzzed in the locked front door after they are sure you have a reservation. Cell phones will be confiscated at the front!!!!! How civilized. Then you will be shown to your seats in the simple and severly decorated dining room. A stool will be provided for the ladies’ purses (my wife had never seen this before but luckily she didn’t use the stool as a foot rest!). Lighting is fairly bright so you can really see your food. It’s a family run restaurant with Papa the captain, Mamma in the kitchen, Daughter the sommelier and the cheese monger and the son serving as waiter and bus boy. They offer several multi course meals or alla carte diining. I remeber a spectacular skate wing preparation, incredible smoked (and very close to raw) duck with moscato grapes and a grilled slice of fish which they could not name in English so we will never know what it was. The wine list is good but go for a lesser known name as the famous stuff is stiffly priced. The cheese course is superb and even better than the outstanding desserts. Breads are homemade. Figure on about $120.00 a person with a modest bottle of wine. <BR> <BR>Finally, there is a great Gelateria and restaurant (both owned by the same folk) but I don't have an address or street name so here is how you can get there. Start out crossing the Tevere at Ponte Sixto into Trastevere. Just to your right and ahead of you is Piazza Trilussa. Head out of P. Trilussa to the right (at a 45 degree angle) and you will come to P. San Giovanni degli Malva. Bear right out of this Piazza passing a wonderful little glass shop at number 5. You will have a pizzeria on your right. Follow this street a half a block ad you will come to a restaurant, bar and gelateria all with the same owners. They all three are spectacular. The bar has a wonderful selection of pastries and serves a great caffe or cappuccino. The gelateria has a small selection of gelato, all house made and naturally flavored. The restaurant has an inside garden and offers fresh seafood as well as traditional Roman offerings. They make a mean carciofi alla Giudea or fried artichoke. Try the Roman antipasti plate and you will get arancini (fried rice balls), fiori di zucca (stuff and fried zucchini flowers) the above mentioned artichoke and more. Dinner for 4 with seafood and a nice bottle of wine was L300,000. <BR> <BR>

Last add <BR> <BR>The Jewish Ghetto and the synagogue are a must see even if you are not Jewish. The synagogue is an art deco find. Beautiful inside and out, but perhaps the most poignant aspect is the security measure necessary since it was bombed. You cannot take pictures inside because someone might use them to plan another attack. Another treat was our guides discussion of Ladino, the language of the Roman jewish community. It is a combination of Spanish, Italian, Yiddish and Hebrew. It is being kept alive by the young people of Rome today. Our guide and her friends all speak it amongst themselves. It is their way of maintianing their sense of community. <BR> <BR>The Ghetto is almost completely gone, but there are signs of this blight on both Church and Roman history. There are several placques commemorating the past and there are statuary and inscriptions on some churches surrounding that add to the historic record. <BR> <BR>After this touching and moving sight, the area from the Ghetto back over to Campo di Fiore is a rabbit warred of side streets filled with artisan shops, trattorie, bar and wine bars. It is a wonderful place to get lost for a few hours.

Great stuff, Dean. Just printed your thread out to read, along with your Toscana suggestions, on the flight to Rome tomorrow. Thanks.

Dean, we leave for Rome next Tuesday. Thanks for all the useful information. I just made a reservation at La Rosetta for next week! <BR> <BR>Kate

Thanks, Dean. I have printed your Roma and Toscana posts to read on the flight to Roma tomorrow as well! Paul, I will see you in Siena. Have a safe and pleasant trip!

Dean, <BR>Going to Rome in January. Between your info & Elaine's, I figure I probably have everything pretty much sewn up. <BR> <BR>Thanks for sharing, <BR>BC

Dean, we just got back from Rome but your post is so good, I'm saving it for our next trip. Another great restaurant in Trastevere is La Cisterna which is the oldest restaurant in Rome. You can get a great meal there and afterwords, tour the Cisterna which is actually an old Roman road and cistern.

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