Ring of Kerry: South Loop only? Gap of Dunloe?
 

Hi there.

I know there's lots of RoK talk and I read much, but having trouble finding some specific help with my dilemma.

Question is: I have read that the South Loop of Ring Of Kerry is the best, traveling clockwise to avoid the tour buses, and I'd rather focus on quality over quantity...

1.) How far is it worth it to drive for the South loop? Waterville? Portmagee?

2.) What time should I be my furthest south point by to beat the tour busses? Especially if I want to double back? What's a good recommended departure time?

And a few other considerations which will factor into where I end up staying for the night before (Fossa Village VS Kenmore). I'm planning to leave Cork in the evening, after sundown, and get into either Killarney or Kenmore in the evening around 8pm (or Fossa Village for a BnB there, just west of Killarney town). The town itself isn't much of a consideration as I'm just using it as a starting point in the morning for the day around the ring + national park.

3.) Is Gap of Dunloe worth driving? And if so, how does it compare to the drive through Killarney (+ perhaps a couple shorter stops? Is it worth doing both? If it's worth doing both, I would be inclined to start in Fossa VS Kenmore...

4.) ROUTES:

Thoughts on...

A. Fossa Village via Dunloe Gap to Kenmare to South Loop, double back via Kenmore, Killarney National Park, back to Fossa Village

VS

B. Fossa starting with Killarney drive, Kenmore, south loop, and double back via Dunloe gap in evening

VS

C. Don't start in Fossa village, start in KENMARE instead, and get straight into the southern loop. Double back via either Dunloe Gap or the National Park (which one?)

VS

D. Do the whole loop, and just proceed onward to Dingle at the end?

//

So the bottom line is, for my 1 day around Kerry, been debating on whether Kenmare or Fossa Village makes more sense as my staging point (ignoring the town as I won't be staying there to explore). Factors in this would be if I should just run the whole loop, or the south portion only to allow more time for Killarney; and whether or not the Dunloe Gap is also worth driving or if I should just pass. And, lastly, how early I want to be out on the south loop (to consider starting location and also when to do Killarney, earlier in day or the end of the day).

Thanks. Sorry for the long post!! Appreciate the insights.

Too long of a question???

We stayed in Kenmore and did the Ring as far as Waterville and turned around. We left after 9 AM and don't recall seeing any bus traffic.
The following day we left from Kenmore for Dingle and it took a full day with stops etc.
Whether or not we missed anything by turning around in Waterville is hard to say as we didn't continue. However, I felt we saw some great views and combine that with our drive along Slea Head from Dingle we felt we saw many terrific sites.

Is anyone able to help with this in any more detail?

Yes. Throw away the Rick Steves guide as he is the only eejit to recommend driving the ring Clockwise driving head on into heavy ( Bus/Truck ) traffic and other garbage.

The Gap of Dunloe is a single track mountain pass that is used by walkers, cyclists and equestrian type traffic. It is legal to drive the Gap but I would recommend against doing this unless very early or late evening.

Fossa is a Townland with a campsite and not much more so not even sure why it gets a mention if you are not staying there?

You could just have an early start and drive Kenmare to Killarney along the N71 which takes you past Molls gap, Ladies View and Muckross

What time of year are you planning if "planning to leave Cork in the evening, after sundown, and get into either Killarney or Kenmare in the evening around 8pm" 8pm is only after sundown in Winter?

One of the best options between Cork and Kerry is to use the Heally Pass (on Beara) to cross the border but a bit pointless after dark? I am guessing that by Killarney you mean the National park rather than the Town as St Rick prefers his readers to flock to tourist central Dingle rather than the popular touring base of Killarney.

I am not sure that answers any of your questions but then again I'm not sure I fully understand any of the questions.

Tony wrote: "... St Rick prefers his readers to flock to tourist central Dingle ..."

OP mentioned neither Rick Steves nor Dingle, but Tony continues on his Quixotic endeavour.

Padraig: "Throw away the Rick Steves guide as he is the only eejit to recommend driving the ring Clockwise driving head on into heavy ( Bus/Truck ) traffic and other garbage."

I have to agree with tony on that comment.
http://www.ringofkerrytourism.com/ri...ions.html#att1

dsc106: Typically, the bus tours depart Killarney about 10 AM and return to there between 4 and 5 PM. Along the way, they make stops at 3-4 places (You would need to check individual tour web sites to see where)

If you are departing Cork after dark, I would urge driving to Killarney (the better, shorter road)and then drive the ROK COUNTER-CLOCKWISE - as the official tourism site also suggests. Best to be on the road no later than 9 AM to stay ahead of the Buses.
I've driven the Black valley / Gap of Dunloe road 3 or 4 times -- typically starting from the Sneem / Moll's Gap end and finishing at Kate Kearney's. In the Summer, I usually START about 6 PM -- avoiding 99% of the horse carts and pedestrians. I wouldn't want to attempt it during "working" hours, though as it would likely take forever.

I did read point "D" Padraig and I have also read a couple of St Rick's offerings.

Dingle is one of 3 tourist towns I wouldn't personally spend the night although I did spend a lot of time there when it was still just a working Fishing Port and Market Town in the early 80's

There was a good deal on an AirBNB in Fossa which is why I had mentioned.

I will be there in early October.

I was planning to go to Dingle, actually, after driving the ring (that same night, actually). Which was the rationale for driving the ring clockwise (well, that and having read a number of people saying to do so). Dingle was on the recommendation of a friend (not Rick Steves :P).

So I can make an informed decision, why do you suggest NOT doing the ring clockwise (keeping in mind this is October and not peak tourism season as well)? I had heard the North side is not as scenic. My thought was by going clockwise, I could take my time on the scenic portion and perhaps end in Portmagee around sunset.

Then the northen portion of the ring on the way to Dingle just drive around dusk and early night (since it's not as scenic anyway) and arrive Dingle after sundown.

Thank you for the helpful tips on tour bus timing, gap of dunloe, etc.

Again, I strongly urge you read the link I provided.
Three reasons why:
1) In October, there WILL be fewer Tour Buses but there will still BE Tour Buses and meeting them 'Head On' can be a frightening and awkward experience. In April of 1999, I did the ROK Clockwise (per RS) and only encountered two -- but in each case, it required driving up onto the rock wall and stopping so the bus could 'creep by' -- an inch or so from the edge of the VW van I was driving.
Now, the roads HAVE been widened SOME since then, but it would be MUCH easier traveling WITH the traffic, rather than AGAINST it.
2) In October, it gets dark fairly early. Other than town/city center, street lights in Ireland are exceedingly rare. It gets VERY dark. Even after 20 visits and THOUSANDS of miles driven, I would be VERY reluctant to drive the Northern portion of the ROK and the road from there into Dingle after dark -- and I know them fairly well!
Additionally, the views from Inch Strand and beyond along the bay are Stunning in daylight (even, if misty, rainy and slightly over-cast)-- but pretty much Non-existent, in the dark.
3) If you are starting in Fossa, driving Clockwise would require driving into Killarney, through town and then back past Torc Falls, Ladies View and Moll's Gap -- some of the 'Choice bits' of the ROK -- and all worth stops. From Moll's Gap to Sneem is basically all inland, unless you first continue on to Kenmare and follow the 'Coastal route. Even then, the 'extra' choice would be to DO the Skellig Ring and possibly Valentia Island -- and then planning a mad dash in the dark, to Dingle.


While it IS possible to drive the standard ROK and end up in Dingle town by end of day, that will NOT allow for much more than viewing it all as a 'Green Blur' beyond the window as you drive past.
I know how tempting it is to want to 'See It All', but it really isn't possible to cram two days worth of touring into a single day -- particularly in Ireland.
Because, Ireland is SO much more than just Pretty scenery!