Rickmav – A Three-Day Adventure in London – The Da Vinci Code, Rumpole of the Bailey and Jimmy Stewart in Rear Window
Feb 12th, 2007, 12:44 PM
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Rickmav – A Three-Day Adventure in London – The Da Vinci Code, Rumpole of the Bailey and Jimmy Stewart in Rear Window
Hi everyone. This is a brief trip report on the three days we spent in London in October 2006, in the midst of a four-month holiday in England and Italy.
If you are interested in any of our other reports, please see:
Overview & Yorkshire
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34937079
Suffolk:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34941319
Kent and Sussex http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34943207
Although we have been to London many times, paraphrasing Samuel Johnson, we have yet to get tired of this complicated and exciting city.
We left our self-catering cottage in Kent quite early in the morning, on our way to Gatwick and then to London. What a day. By 11:30 a.m., we've driven to Gatwick, dropped off our rental car � which by this time has become a member of the family � caught the train to London, tubed to King's Cross, then trundled our luggage down the street to our hotel.
It's a good thing my husband was paying attention to things when we picked up the rental car (National Car Rental through Auto Europe) and had noted all the dings in the windshield. The fellow checking the car over when we dropped it off tried to charge us for a new windshield, but Rick whipped out the form he'd filled out originally and proved that every ding could be accounted for.
We asked three different people at Gatwick what was the quickest train to King's Cross - we'd read somewhere that there was an express (the Gatwick Express only goes to Victoria). We were told there was only one train, which ends at Luton Airport, and costs us 10 pounds each.
Messed up on the way, thought that Thameslink was our stop when in fact it's King's Cross Thameslink. We got off at City Thameslink and had to wait for the next train. It's probably obvious to anyone who travels this way frequently, but we never have. Not a big deal, but we did feel a bit foolish.
At King's Cross bought a three-day travel card, off-peak, zones 1-6 for 20 pounds each. Have never sat down and figured out how much money it saves us, but I know we're ahead and it certainly is handy to have.
Disappointed with our hotel, the Jesmond Dene on Argyle Street. Read good reviews on trip advisor, but it's seems as if they are describing a different place. I know I shouldn't whine about cheap, London hotels, but geesh, you certainly get very little for your money (75 pounds). We booked a superior double and it's barely one step up from a hostel. The bathroom is a smidgen larger than an airplane loo. How small is it you ask? � so small we have to have the door open so we can sit on the toilet! There is no desk or chair, the view is depressing, you can hear everything taking place in the bathroom next door and you are allotted two towels per day, period. (No hand towels). The carpet is worn in the entrance and on the stairs. And they never change our drinking glasses.
But it is clean, the bed is not too bad and it is decorated with old movie posters with Marilyn Monroe and Humphrey Bogart. The staff is okay, a bit too engrossed in whatever they are doing on the computer, and the breakfast is your standard London B&B fry-up. (Note: we went around 8:30 am and there weren't enough tables for everyone. People had to stand and wait in the hall.) We don't like King's Cross, the area or the station, but you can take both trains and the tube from it. At the end of the three days, we decide that until we can afford a nice hotel in a decent area we aren't returning to London. (We've been here a number of times.)
We drop the bags off; we couldn't get into our room until after 1pm, and then head out to buy tickets for the theatre ('Woman in Black'). The Piccadilly line isn't working so we have to do a bit of to-ing and fro-ing � Rick isn't impressed and I wonder if going from a beamed cottage in Kent to mad, busy, noisy London was a good idea. For me it is invigorating in a strange way.
Found the theatre (the Fortune on Russell Street), bought our tickets for the matinee performance, then walked to Covent Garden. What an amazing place to people-watch. Some of the street performers, particularly the ones that look like gold or silver statues, but then suddenly come to life, intrigued us. Well done. Picked up a coffee at Starbucks and went back to watch the street performers � this time a French guy on top of a ladder. He really had the crowd going.
Wandered (we do a lot of that this trip and particularly in London) towards Trafalgar Square to see what is going on there. It is a beautiful day (Saturday) and there are lots of people about, the sun twinkling off the huge fountain in the middle and we just sit and enjoy the moment. As we are wandering, we come across two protests. One is in front of the South African embassy � couldn't quite read the signs, but it was all very colourful, the protesters are singing and dancing and the English Bobbies are keeping a quiet and discreet distance.
The second protest is in Trafalgar Square and I think the organizers are against everything that has happened in the past 30 years � contraception, video games, the Internet, sex education in schools, abortion, and the media. There are a series of speakers, who seem to yell at the audience, although I did enjoy the Christian rappers, at least their stuff had a beat. Couldn't get the tune out of my head all day. Nobody around us seemed to be paying much attention; it's probably just like any other Saturday in Trafalgar Square.
Walked back to the theatre in time for the 4pm performance. Had good seats, middle of row J in the stalls (36 pounds each). Very tight squeeze though, worse than Ryanair.
I wasn't impressed with the play at all. Perhaps, my expectations were so high because I'd heard about it for years. The story is kind of interesting and there are a few creepy moments but I thought a lot of it was kind of cheesy and included bits from every stock horror story out there. I also didn't accept the opening premise, which was too long � but I won't say anything more since I don't want to ruin it for anyone who might go.
The play ended around 6 o'clock. Wandered a bit more, lots of people about. Had dinner at The Longacre (1-3 Long Acre), right in the middle of the theatre district. We shared a 'rustic' platter for 10 pounds (it was their nightly special) and it was very good. It included Thai chicken skewers, egg rolls, tiny sausages, salad, parmesan bread, roasted potato wedges and four different kinds of dips. Two pints of ale and we were set. Definitely two thumbs up.
Wandered some more, picked up a bottle of wine and headed back to the hotel. Watched some TV and tried to ignore the gastric problems of the fellow in the next room or the raucous sex at 2:30 in the morning in the room above. Ah, London.
Decided the next morning to attend Sunday service at Temple Church, built by the Knights Templar, and featured in the Da Vinci Code. The Da Vinci connection didn't interest me, I thought the book was over-rated, but I have always been intrigued by the Templars. Of course, we were late. London time is different from anywhere else; you have to plan for the time for walking to the tube station, then to the platforms, waiting for the train, walking out to fresh air, getting your bearings, etc. We debated at the church door whether to go in, one other fellow chickened out, but I decided we'd got this far so might as well go for it.
We did cause a stir and a number of elderly parishioners cast un-Christian looks at us, but we settled in quickly and enjoyed every minute. The church is beautiful, the choir exquisite and it was a lovely way to begin our Sunday in London.
The Temple Church is over 800 years old and was built by the Templars, crusading monks who protected the pilgrims going from Europe to the Holy Land. It's kind of a strange looking building from the outside, with a round part, where the knights' effigies are (one of the Da Vinci Code clues), and then the church proper. (The Master of the Temple, Robin Griffith-Jones has written a book about the secrets of the Da Vinci Code and the Temple Church.)
The church has beautiful stained glass windows and there were quite a few people attending the service. Afterwards, we checked out the knights, then shook the vicar's hand and tried to find our way out of the Inner Temple, the area where the church is located and famous for being, among other things, the stomping ground of Rumpole of the Bailey (another British TV series we enjoy).
Had lunch at The Tipperary, a tiny, Irish pub (I think London's first) at 66 Fleet St. Nicely decorated, lots of dark wood panelling and Irish shamrocks in mosaics on the floor. I had chunky vegetable soup with Irish soda bread and a side salad, Rick had steak pie with chips. Although Rick is of Irish ancestry, he hates Guinness, so I always try a �, on his behalf. Certainly couldn't drink it all the time. With beer, the meal cost 15 pounds. The only strange thing was the waitress who stood very close to our table, so we had to whisper, and spent all her time text messaging. But she was helpful enough when we asked for something.
Then we took the tube to the Victoria & Albert Museum. Another amazing place. I think it would take you a lifetime to see it in its entirety. And, even then, the special exhibits keep changing, so I don't know if you'd ever catch up. There was a lot of construction going on, which made it difficult to get around. Some exhibits weren't open, others hard to find.
Really enjoyed the exhibit dedicated to Sixties Fashion, although it covers clothes and accessories from the mid 1950s to the mid 1970s. Had everything from paper dresses, and Mary Quant's minis to the psychedelic Bohemia look of the 70s. My favourite outfit was a dress made by Givenchy for Audrey Hepburn.
Other areas of the museum we enjoyed were the small side gallery dedicated to father and daughter, Henry VIII and Elizabeth I, and the room full of plaster casts of the most amazing burial effigies, church fonts, Celtic crosses, etc. The Museum has a great gift shop, and I bought some beautiful postcards depicting kimonos in the Far East collection. Make sure to look up at the chandelier by Dale Chihuly in the entrance. I can't imagine cleaning that thing.
Walked down Brompton Road towards Harrods. Took a quick cruise through the Food Halls and bought a little chunk of Ashley Estate double gloucester (that's about all we could afford), a wonderful cheese matured in the Wookey Hole Caves. Then to Hyde Park where we rest our weary feet and people watch. It's a beautiful day, so it's quite busy. Then we take the bus back to the hotel. We usually take the tube everywhere, but by bus you realize how much of London you are missing.
Surprised at the anti-immigrant feeling in England, haven't noticed it on previous trips. It's in the newspapers a lot, but also comes up in conversations with B&B owners, at the car rental places, etc. Even when we are eavesdropping on the bus. This morning I saw some graffiti on the wall of an underground tunnel � 'Mosley Was Right'. Now that's a blast from the past.
Can't sleep at night. I'm too excited being in London, so stand at the window for a long time, even though you can really only see the apartments across the alley. Open the window and listen to the sounds of the city. I feel a bit like Jimmy Stewart in 'Rear Window' � although I don't see anything as interesting as a murder.
The next day is our last in London, before leaving for three weeks in Italy. I talk with my mother and it is snowing in Canada! � but another beautiful day here. I think you can tell the Canadians in London because they are the ones walking around without coats, sometimes even without shirts.
We spent today at the Imperial War Museum. We've been before but only for flying visits so decide that today we will spend as much time there as we want. My husband and I see some things together and then split up. Later we meet up for a treat in the museum cafe, carrot cake for me and a chocolate muffin for Rick.
There's so much to see here, and like the Victoria & Albert, the entrance fee is a donation. We enjoy the Blitz Experience, the trenches from World War I and climbing in and out of (my husband does more of that) the tanks. My favourite thing is the 1940s house, although while I'm there it is invaded by little schoolgirls in blue and white checked dresses. There are thousands of them, all calling their teacher, 'Miss'.
The 1940s house is a re-created, semi-detached, wartime home and is an identical copy of the one used in the Channel 4 series named, of course, '1940s House'.
It's decorated as it would have been during the war, with blackout blinds, a gramophone playing George Formby and a Dig For Victory vegetable garden. It's amazing how much it resembles my mother's house in Canada. Eerie, in fact.
There's a special exhibit called 'Children at War' that highlights what it would have been like for children during WWII. There are clothes for kids to try on, boxes of old toys they can play with and special audio-guides just for them. Well done.
I'd been to the Holocaust exhibit on the top floor before, but couldn't bear to go again, it is so exquisitely done that it is torture for me. But I did go to a new exhibit called 'Crimes Against Humanity'. It was just as disturbing.
You enter a large, white room with white cubes as benches lined up in front of a ceiling to floor screen. A film starts and shows all the different places in the world where genocide has occurred since 1945. It was very moving and horrifying. The only other person in the room with me was this ancient, shrunken man. As we left, he turned to me and shook my hand. We both knew we'd shared something meaningful.
I think the Imperial War Museum is one of the best museums in the world for the creative way it displays its collections and for the tightrope it walks between recognizing war, without glorifying it.
We took a bus to Oxford Circus to find our driving maps of Italy. It is shopper's heaven. We finally find a four-storey bookstore called 'Borders' and buy our maps. I can't believe some of the bags people are carrying around � Gucci, Fendi, Versace, etc. Either people are spending millions, or they just walk around with the bags full of their old sweater and today's lunch.
Dinner tonight not too far from the hotel at Casa Mamma (339 Grays Inn Road). Spaghetti Bolognese and lasagne (we are going to be sick of the stuff before we even get to Italy!), which is excellent. The waiter is Italian, I practice a few words I've learned, he breaks out into a big smile, and from then on, he only speaks Italian to me. It's funny, I know what he's saying, although I struggle with the replies. The service is top notch, ambiance wonderful and we sit by the window and pretend we are in Italy (which we will be tomorrow!).
Since we have been to London a number of times, we don't try and cram too much into each day, just focus on one thing we really want to do and then wander about/let the tube take us where it may. I'm sure we would have planned a different trip if it were our first visit, or our only time there. Although I love London (my husband, Rick, is luke-warm about it), the hotel has dampened my usual enthusiasm. Will just have to keep looking for that elusive hotel that is both reasonable and comfortable.
We leave for Italy in the morning. I'll post that report separately. If anyone has any questions about what we did in London or about London in general, I will try to answer them.
If you are interested in any of our other reports, please see:
Overview & Yorkshire
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34937079
Suffolk:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34941319
Kent and Sussex http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34943207
Although we have been to London many times, paraphrasing Samuel Johnson, we have yet to get tired of this complicated and exciting city.
We left our self-catering cottage in Kent quite early in the morning, on our way to Gatwick and then to London. What a day. By 11:30 a.m., we've driven to Gatwick, dropped off our rental car � which by this time has become a member of the family � caught the train to London, tubed to King's Cross, then trundled our luggage down the street to our hotel.
It's a good thing my husband was paying attention to things when we picked up the rental car (National Car Rental through Auto Europe) and had noted all the dings in the windshield. The fellow checking the car over when we dropped it off tried to charge us for a new windshield, but Rick whipped out the form he'd filled out originally and proved that every ding could be accounted for.
We asked three different people at Gatwick what was the quickest train to King's Cross - we'd read somewhere that there was an express (the Gatwick Express only goes to Victoria). We were told there was only one train, which ends at Luton Airport, and costs us 10 pounds each.
Messed up on the way, thought that Thameslink was our stop when in fact it's King's Cross Thameslink. We got off at City Thameslink and had to wait for the next train. It's probably obvious to anyone who travels this way frequently, but we never have. Not a big deal, but we did feel a bit foolish.
At King's Cross bought a three-day travel card, off-peak, zones 1-6 for 20 pounds each. Have never sat down and figured out how much money it saves us, but I know we're ahead and it certainly is handy to have.
Disappointed with our hotel, the Jesmond Dene on Argyle Street. Read good reviews on trip advisor, but it's seems as if they are describing a different place. I know I shouldn't whine about cheap, London hotels, but geesh, you certainly get very little for your money (75 pounds). We booked a superior double and it's barely one step up from a hostel. The bathroom is a smidgen larger than an airplane loo. How small is it you ask? � so small we have to have the door open so we can sit on the toilet! There is no desk or chair, the view is depressing, you can hear everything taking place in the bathroom next door and you are allotted two towels per day, period. (No hand towels). The carpet is worn in the entrance and on the stairs. And they never change our drinking glasses.
But it is clean, the bed is not too bad and it is decorated with old movie posters with Marilyn Monroe and Humphrey Bogart. The staff is okay, a bit too engrossed in whatever they are doing on the computer, and the breakfast is your standard London B&B fry-up. (Note: we went around 8:30 am and there weren't enough tables for everyone. People had to stand and wait in the hall.) We don't like King's Cross, the area or the station, but you can take both trains and the tube from it. At the end of the three days, we decide that until we can afford a nice hotel in a decent area we aren't returning to London. (We've been here a number of times.)
We drop the bags off; we couldn't get into our room until after 1pm, and then head out to buy tickets for the theatre ('Woman in Black'). The Piccadilly line isn't working so we have to do a bit of to-ing and fro-ing � Rick isn't impressed and I wonder if going from a beamed cottage in Kent to mad, busy, noisy London was a good idea. For me it is invigorating in a strange way.
Found the theatre (the Fortune on Russell Street), bought our tickets for the matinee performance, then walked to Covent Garden. What an amazing place to people-watch. Some of the street performers, particularly the ones that look like gold or silver statues, but then suddenly come to life, intrigued us. Well done. Picked up a coffee at Starbucks and went back to watch the street performers � this time a French guy on top of a ladder. He really had the crowd going.
Wandered (we do a lot of that this trip and particularly in London) towards Trafalgar Square to see what is going on there. It is a beautiful day (Saturday) and there are lots of people about, the sun twinkling off the huge fountain in the middle and we just sit and enjoy the moment. As we are wandering, we come across two protests. One is in front of the South African embassy � couldn't quite read the signs, but it was all very colourful, the protesters are singing and dancing and the English Bobbies are keeping a quiet and discreet distance.
The second protest is in Trafalgar Square and I think the organizers are against everything that has happened in the past 30 years � contraception, video games, the Internet, sex education in schools, abortion, and the media. There are a series of speakers, who seem to yell at the audience, although I did enjoy the Christian rappers, at least their stuff had a beat. Couldn't get the tune out of my head all day. Nobody around us seemed to be paying much attention; it's probably just like any other Saturday in Trafalgar Square.
Walked back to the theatre in time for the 4pm performance. Had good seats, middle of row J in the stalls (36 pounds each). Very tight squeeze though, worse than Ryanair.
I wasn't impressed with the play at all. Perhaps, my expectations were so high because I'd heard about it for years. The story is kind of interesting and there are a few creepy moments but I thought a lot of it was kind of cheesy and included bits from every stock horror story out there. I also didn't accept the opening premise, which was too long � but I won't say anything more since I don't want to ruin it for anyone who might go.
The play ended around 6 o'clock. Wandered a bit more, lots of people about. Had dinner at The Longacre (1-3 Long Acre), right in the middle of the theatre district. We shared a 'rustic' platter for 10 pounds (it was their nightly special) and it was very good. It included Thai chicken skewers, egg rolls, tiny sausages, salad, parmesan bread, roasted potato wedges and four different kinds of dips. Two pints of ale and we were set. Definitely two thumbs up.
Wandered some more, picked up a bottle of wine and headed back to the hotel. Watched some TV and tried to ignore the gastric problems of the fellow in the next room or the raucous sex at 2:30 in the morning in the room above. Ah, London.
Decided the next morning to attend Sunday service at Temple Church, built by the Knights Templar, and featured in the Da Vinci Code. The Da Vinci connection didn't interest me, I thought the book was over-rated, but I have always been intrigued by the Templars. Of course, we were late. London time is different from anywhere else; you have to plan for the time for walking to the tube station, then to the platforms, waiting for the train, walking out to fresh air, getting your bearings, etc. We debated at the church door whether to go in, one other fellow chickened out, but I decided we'd got this far so might as well go for it.
We did cause a stir and a number of elderly parishioners cast un-Christian looks at us, but we settled in quickly and enjoyed every minute. The church is beautiful, the choir exquisite and it was a lovely way to begin our Sunday in London.
The Temple Church is over 800 years old and was built by the Templars, crusading monks who protected the pilgrims going from Europe to the Holy Land. It's kind of a strange looking building from the outside, with a round part, where the knights' effigies are (one of the Da Vinci Code clues), and then the church proper. (The Master of the Temple, Robin Griffith-Jones has written a book about the secrets of the Da Vinci Code and the Temple Church.)
The church has beautiful stained glass windows and there were quite a few people attending the service. Afterwards, we checked out the knights, then shook the vicar's hand and tried to find our way out of the Inner Temple, the area where the church is located and famous for being, among other things, the stomping ground of Rumpole of the Bailey (another British TV series we enjoy).
Had lunch at The Tipperary, a tiny, Irish pub (I think London's first) at 66 Fleet St. Nicely decorated, lots of dark wood panelling and Irish shamrocks in mosaics on the floor. I had chunky vegetable soup with Irish soda bread and a side salad, Rick had steak pie with chips. Although Rick is of Irish ancestry, he hates Guinness, so I always try a �, on his behalf. Certainly couldn't drink it all the time. With beer, the meal cost 15 pounds. The only strange thing was the waitress who stood very close to our table, so we had to whisper, and spent all her time text messaging. But she was helpful enough when we asked for something.
Then we took the tube to the Victoria & Albert Museum. Another amazing place. I think it would take you a lifetime to see it in its entirety. And, even then, the special exhibits keep changing, so I don't know if you'd ever catch up. There was a lot of construction going on, which made it difficult to get around. Some exhibits weren't open, others hard to find.
Really enjoyed the exhibit dedicated to Sixties Fashion, although it covers clothes and accessories from the mid 1950s to the mid 1970s. Had everything from paper dresses, and Mary Quant's minis to the psychedelic Bohemia look of the 70s. My favourite outfit was a dress made by Givenchy for Audrey Hepburn.
Other areas of the museum we enjoyed were the small side gallery dedicated to father and daughter, Henry VIII and Elizabeth I, and the room full of plaster casts of the most amazing burial effigies, church fonts, Celtic crosses, etc. The Museum has a great gift shop, and I bought some beautiful postcards depicting kimonos in the Far East collection. Make sure to look up at the chandelier by Dale Chihuly in the entrance. I can't imagine cleaning that thing.
Walked down Brompton Road towards Harrods. Took a quick cruise through the Food Halls and bought a little chunk of Ashley Estate double gloucester (that's about all we could afford), a wonderful cheese matured in the Wookey Hole Caves. Then to Hyde Park where we rest our weary feet and people watch. It's a beautiful day, so it's quite busy. Then we take the bus back to the hotel. We usually take the tube everywhere, but by bus you realize how much of London you are missing.
Surprised at the anti-immigrant feeling in England, haven't noticed it on previous trips. It's in the newspapers a lot, but also comes up in conversations with B&B owners, at the car rental places, etc. Even when we are eavesdropping on the bus. This morning I saw some graffiti on the wall of an underground tunnel � 'Mosley Was Right'. Now that's a blast from the past.
Can't sleep at night. I'm too excited being in London, so stand at the window for a long time, even though you can really only see the apartments across the alley. Open the window and listen to the sounds of the city. I feel a bit like Jimmy Stewart in 'Rear Window' � although I don't see anything as interesting as a murder.
The next day is our last in London, before leaving for three weeks in Italy. I talk with my mother and it is snowing in Canada! � but another beautiful day here. I think you can tell the Canadians in London because they are the ones walking around without coats, sometimes even without shirts.
We spent today at the Imperial War Museum. We've been before but only for flying visits so decide that today we will spend as much time there as we want. My husband and I see some things together and then split up. Later we meet up for a treat in the museum cafe, carrot cake for me and a chocolate muffin for Rick.
There's so much to see here, and like the Victoria & Albert, the entrance fee is a donation. We enjoy the Blitz Experience, the trenches from World War I and climbing in and out of (my husband does more of that) the tanks. My favourite thing is the 1940s house, although while I'm there it is invaded by little schoolgirls in blue and white checked dresses. There are thousands of them, all calling their teacher, 'Miss'.
The 1940s house is a re-created, semi-detached, wartime home and is an identical copy of the one used in the Channel 4 series named, of course, '1940s House'.
It's decorated as it would have been during the war, with blackout blinds, a gramophone playing George Formby and a Dig For Victory vegetable garden. It's amazing how much it resembles my mother's house in Canada. Eerie, in fact.
There's a special exhibit called 'Children at War' that highlights what it would have been like for children during WWII. There are clothes for kids to try on, boxes of old toys they can play with and special audio-guides just for them. Well done.
I'd been to the Holocaust exhibit on the top floor before, but couldn't bear to go again, it is so exquisitely done that it is torture for me. But I did go to a new exhibit called 'Crimes Against Humanity'. It was just as disturbing.
You enter a large, white room with white cubes as benches lined up in front of a ceiling to floor screen. A film starts and shows all the different places in the world where genocide has occurred since 1945. It was very moving and horrifying. The only other person in the room with me was this ancient, shrunken man. As we left, he turned to me and shook my hand. We both knew we'd shared something meaningful.
I think the Imperial War Museum is one of the best museums in the world for the creative way it displays its collections and for the tightrope it walks between recognizing war, without glorifying it.
We took a bus to Oxford Circus to find our driving maps of Italy. It is shopper's heaven. We finally find a four-storey bookstore called 'Borders' and buy our maps. I can't believe some of the bags people are carrying around � Gucci, Fendi, Versace, etc. Either people are spending millions, or they just walk around with the bags full of their old sweater and today's lunch.
Dinner tonight not too far from the hotel at Casa Mamma (339 Grays Inn Road). Spaghetti Bolognese and lasagne (we are going to be sick of the stuff before we even get to Italy!), which is excellent. The waiter is Italian, I practice a few words I've learned, he breaks out into a big smile, and from then on, he only speaks Italian to me. It's funny, I know what he's saying, although I struggle with the replies. The service is top notch, ambiance wonderful and we sit by the window and pretend we are in Italy (which we will be tomorrow!).
Since we have been to London a number of times, we don't try and cram too much into each day, just focus on one thing we really want to do and then wander about/let the tube take us where it may. I'm sure we would have planned a different trip if it were our first visit, or our only time there. Although I love London (my husband, Rick, is luke-warm about it), the hotel has dampened my usual enthusiasm. Will just have to keep looking for that elusive hotel that is both reasonable and comfortable.
We leave for Italy in the morning. I'll post that report separately. If anyone has any questions about what we did in London or about London in general, I will try to answer them.
Feb 12th, 2007, 01:28 PM
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Next time rent a flat! I have to agree with your about "Woman in Black." Being disappointed in it has kept me from seeing the "Mousetrap."
I, too constantly find new/old things in the V&A & since I rent a flat within spitting distance I visit it several times each trip.
I hate to see your UK trip report end. I've enjoyed it soooo much. Thank you.
I, too constantly find new/old things in the V&A & since I rent a flat within spitting distance I visit it several times each trip.
I hate to see your UK trip report end. I've enjoyed it soooo much. Thank you.
Feb 12th, 2007, 01:55 PM
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Thanks for the kind words, carrybean. I don't know why I never think about renting a flat in London. I guess I assume it will be too expensive. It might also be because, many, many years ago, I rented a studio flat in London with three other women and it turned out to be the holiday from hell. I guess you get what you pay for.
We did enjoy 'The Mousetrap', although I know many posters here think it's too touristy. But I like anything Agatha Christie does. Would be interesting to hear from someone who loved the 'Woman in Black'.
We did enjoy 'The Mousetrap', although I know many posters here think it's too touristy. But I like anything Agatha Christie does. Would be interesting to hear from someone who loved the 'Woman in Black'.
Feb 12th, 2007, 02:01 PM
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Great trip report. It sounds like you were quite unlucky with your hotel; Kings Cross is a horrible area to stay in (or to have to visit) and £75 is a lot for a grotty room there. Don't give up on London because of this stay; there are good value hotels in nice areas!
Feb 12th, 2007, 02:25 PM
#5
Rickmav: too late to help you now - but since you love London so much and to help convince your husband - just a couple of hints for next time. A flat of course is a good idea (and especially one as far from Kings Cross as you can get 
) But even a flat will be fairly pricey. I almost always rent an apartment - but for true bargains you guys simply MUST try priceline. As long as you pick the 2 or 3 best PL zones you can get 4 star hotels for between about $US70 and $US100. Priceline is not that great in a lot of cities - but in London it is brilliant. Tomorrow I leave for London and meeting some friends for a few days. We are renting flats - but for the last few days when I'm on my own I pricelined and got a Holiday Inn in Kensington for $US75.
And while the W in B is not my favorite play either -- it is just about <b>always</b> available at TKTS at 1/2 price. A lot more enjoyable at 20 GBP vs 36 GBP.
I'm glad to hear the 1940's house is still at the Imp. War. I visited it a few years ago and wanted to take one of my friends there next week.
I have absolutely loved all of your reports!
) But even a flat will be fairly pricey. I almost always rent an apartment - but for true bargains you guys simply MUST try priceline. As long as you pick the 2 or 3 best PL zones you can get 4 star hotels for between about $US70 and $US100. Priceline is not that great in a lot of cities - but in London it is brilliant. Tomorrow I leave for London and meeting some friends for a few days. We are renting flats - but for the last few days when I'm on my own I pricelined and got a Holiday Inn in Kensington for $US75.And while the W in B is not my favorite play either -- it is just about <b>always</b> available at TKTS at 1/2 price. A lot more enjoyable at 20 GBP vs 36 GBP.
I'm glad to hear the 1940's house is still at the Imp. War. I visited it a few years ago and wanted to take one of my friends there next week.
I have absolutely loved all of your reports!
Feb 12th, 2007, 02:25 PM
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"Would be interesting to hear from someone who loved the 'Woman in Black'. "
-raises hand-
It sounds like we had the opposite experience w/the play. We bought the tickets because there was no other play available. It sounded a bit cheesy, in the flyer, but it was only 15 GBP. The bare set made it a bit difficult to "get into" at first, but the 2 actors played their parts well and I got caught up in the how and why of the story. My companion, who hates the ghost genre, even remarked how he enjoyed it. But different strokes...
But I hated Mousetrap and I've read all the Christie novels..go figure.
I agree w/the others who said don't give up on London based on 1 bad hotel room. If you aren't into renting a flat, may I suggest an apart'hotel such as the Citadines? They have the same layout as flats, yet still have the convienence of a front desk and maintenance staff. Plus, you have your own kitchenette so you can make your own breakfast instead of the fry-ups
Thanks for the report
-raises hand-
It sounds like we had the opposite experience w/the play. We bought the tickets because there was no other play available. It sounded a bit cheesy, in the flyer, but it was only 15 GBP. The bare set made it a bit difficult to "get into" at first, but the 2 actors played their parts well and I got caught up in the how and why of the story. My companion, who hates the ghost genre, even remarked how he enjoyed it. But different strokes...
But I hated Mousetrap and I've read all the Christie novels..go figure.
I agree w/the others who said don't give up on London based on 1 bad hotel room. If you aren't into renting a flat, may I suggest an apart'hotel such as the Citadines? They have the same layout as flats, yet still have the convienence of a front desk and maintenance staff. Plus, you have your own kitchenette so you can make your own breakfast instead of the fry-ups
Thanks for the report
Feb 12th, 2007, 03:17 PM
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Love your London report. You give lots of great detail about the things you've seen and done. I'm now hoping to fit the V&A and/or the Imperial War Museum into my March trip. And maybe the Templar church. Not for services, though, and I've heard the opening hours are tricky/unreliable.
Will you have more England to report after Italy?
Will you have more England to report after Italy?
Feb 12th, 2007, 03:26 PM
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Yeesh, I wish we'd been smart enough to think to go to a service at the Temple Church. The book I think of in connection with that church isn't The Da Vinci Code but my favourite of PD James' novels, "A Certain Justice." (But thanks to our not being able to get in - choir practice under way - we did find one of the sites where they filmed Rumpole - wonder if you found this place, hence your title.
I only saw "the Woman in Black" as a film and have to say I loved it. Maybe though having what I think was St. Michael's Mont in Cornwall (?) as a setting helped, I don't know.
Enjoying your report.
I only saw "the Woman in Black" as a film and have to say I loved it. Maybe though having what I think was St. Michael's Mont in Cornwall (?) as a setting helped, I don't know.
Enjoying your report.
Feb 12th, 2007, 03:56 PM
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rickmav - What a three-day adventure.
Glad you got to attend services at the Templar church even if you were a tad late.
So sorry about your hotel but you seemed to make the very best of it.
Carrybean - Would love to know the contact information for the flat that you usually stay at.
I so appreciate your time and effort to post such a long trip report. You are a very talented and gifted writer.
Sandy
Glad you got to attend services at the Templar church even if you were a tad late.
So sorry about your hotel but you seemed to make the very best of it.
Carrybean - Would love to know the contact information for the flat that you usually stay at.
I so appreciate your time and effort to post such a long trip report. You are a very talented and gifted writer.
Sandy
Feb 12th, 2007, 04:56 PM
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papagena - I agree with you, the King's Cross area is pretty grotty. I suppose I was influenced, too much, by the reviews of the hotel on tripadvisor. Not having ever been in the area, I didn't know what I was letting us in for.
janisj - Thanks for your kind words. I will try Priceline next time - we tried for this trip but when we couldn't get anything for 100US gave up. I was probably doing something wrong, I know there are different combinations of things that can get you what you want. If I'd known what we would get for 75 pounds, I would have gladly increased the amount we offered. Live and learn I guess.
emily71 - Thanks for 'raising your hand'. I probably could have taken cheesy at 15 pounds (or janisj's 20 pounds); at 36 we felt bad that we'd wasted our time and money and missed something else really good.
noe846 and SandyBrit - Thanks for following me about. I hope to start our Italy report tomorrow. We've been snowed in here for days so I have some time. The next best thing to being on holiday is writing about it!
suexxyy - You're so right about 'A Certain Justice'. I totally missed that. And yes, we were in the area where Rumpole of the Bailey takes place in the books. A security guard pointed out where they had done some filming, I wasn't able to find a map or anything on the Internet that had film locations listed.
janisj - Thanks for your kind words. I will try Priceline next time - we tried for this trip but when we couldn't get anything for 100US gave up. I was probably doing something wrong, I know there are different combinations of things that can get you what you want. If I'd known what we would get for 75 pounds, I would have gladly increased the amount we offered. Live and learn I guess.
emily71 - Thanks for 'raising your hand'. I probably could have taken cheesy at 15 pounds (or janisj's 20 pounds); at 36 we felt bad that we'd wasted our time and money and missed something else really good.
noe846 and SandyBrit - Thanks for following me about. I hope to start our Italy report tomorrow. We've been snowed in here for days so I have some time. The next best thing to being on holiday is writing about it!
suexxyy - You're so right about 'A Certain Justice'. I totally missed that. And yes, we were in the area where Rumpole of the Bailey takes place in the books. A security guard pointed out where they had done some filming, I wasn't able to find a map or anything on the Internet that had film locations listed.
Feb 13th, 2007, 12:39 AM
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Sandy, go to www.londonguestsuites.com and in the upper right corner enter 1107 as the property code.
After I booked it for June, they said it was sold & gave me a 2 bedroom in the same building for the same price but then said the new owner would honor the bookings. (I stayed with the 2 bedroom.)
The kitchen is wonderful & the location is where I prefer to be in London. Would work out to less than 80 GBP/night including VAT.
After I booked it for June, they said it was sold & gave me a 2 bedroom in the same building for the same price but then said the new owner would honor the bookings. (I stayed with the 2 bedroom.)
The kitchen is wonderful & the location is where I prefer to be in London. Would work out to less than 80 GBP/night including VAT.
Feb 13th, 2007, 03:02 AM
#12
Hi, Rickmav - sorry you didn't enjoy the "WIB". It's been doing the rounds now for some time [we saw it in Truro, Cornwall] a few years ago and enjoyed it, but we don't get a huge amount of live theatre down here so perhaps expectations are lower.
Great idea to attend a service in the Temple Church. I worked in the temple for about 15 years and only went in once to attend a christening, though i often swas the choristers waking around in thier surplices.
You may be interested to know that the Chambers used for filming Rumpole [at least the outside bits] were John Mortimer's old Chambers just down from middle temple Gate. The temple is often used for filming Dickens and other period pieces because of the lack of electric street lights - the gas lamps are still lit at dusk and extnguished at dawn by the lamp-lighter - or they were in my day.[about 10 years ago].
FYI on week-days, you can get lunch in middle Temple hall, without being a member - just dress reasonably smartly and walk straight in, as if you know what you're doing, and sit down. Teh food is OK -Reasonable, but you can't beat the surroundings!
Looking fwd to the Italy section,
REgards
Ann
Great idea to attend a service in the Temple Church. I worked in the temple for about 15 years and only went in once to attend a christening, though i often swas the choristers waking around in thier surplices.
You may be interested to know that the Chambers used for filming Rumpole [at least the outside bits] were John Mortimer's old Chambers just down from middle temple Gate. The temple is often used for filming Dickens and other period pieces because of the lack of electric street lights - the gas lamps are still lit at dusk and extnguished at dawn by the lamp-lighter - or they were in my day.[about 10 years ago].
FYI on week-days, you can get lunch in middle Temple hall, without being a member - just dress reasonably smartly and walk straight in, as if you know what you're doing, and sit down. Teh food is OK -Reasonable, but you can't beat the surroundings!
Looking fwd to the Italy section,
REgards
Ann
Feb 13th, 2007, 03:55 AM
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rickmav
We have passed thru London on our way to other parts for years now. I got turned off a few years ago with a bad hotel experience and just thought I've had enough. This thread has encouraged me to reconsider.
Carrybean - thanks so much for the link. If we have another go at London it will be with a flat.
rickmav - you mentioned that you were snowed in so I'll just comment that it seems thus far in your trip you have enjoyed remarkably nice days of pleasant weather.
Sandy
We have passed thru London on our way to other parts for years now. I got turned off a few years ago with a bad hotel experience and just thought I've had enough. This thread has encouraged me to reconsider.
Carrybean - thanks so much for the link. If we have another go at London it will be with a flat.
rickmav - you mentioned that you were snowed in so I'll just comment that it seems thus far in your trip you have enjoyed remarkably nice days of pleasant weather.
Sandy
Feb 14th, 2007, 04:11 AM
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annhig - So those were John Mortimer's chambers? We found them by accident while wandering through the area on a quiet Sunday afternoon.
Rickmav, you would have found them because there are TWO lists of names outside the door. One list obviously contains the names of the 'real' occupants; the other, much larger list is headed "Ground Floor South: Judge George Frobisher, Mr. Samuel Ballard, Mr. Horace Rumpole, Mr. C Erskine-Brown....."
Rickmav, you would have found them because there are TWO lists of names outside the door. One list obviously contains the names of the 'real' occupants; the other, much larger list is headed "Ground Floor South: Judge George Frobisher, Mr. Samuel Ballard, Mr. Horace Rumpole, Mr. C Erskine-Brown....."
Mar 11th, 2007, 11:49 AM
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Sorry, I didn't respond earlier to some of you. I'm starting to lose track of all the trip reports!
Carrybean - Thanks for helping out SandyBrit.
annhig - not sure what happened with Women in Black - I think I was just expecting too much. I could definitely see where the Temple area would be used for filming, it's as if time has stood still there. I didn't know that about the gas lamps - fascinating. And thanks for the tip about lunch. My mom and I may be going this fall (she's the Rumpole fanatic) and will definitely check it out. If you didn't find Italy, the link is below.
SandyBrit Yes, we were very lucky weather-wise in England. Not so much when we got home.
Sue_xx_yy - Thanks for the Rumpole tip.
------------------------------------
For those of you who may be interested in following us in our travels, after London, we flew to Italy for three weeks:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34947512
And then back to England for Christmas:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34961337
Carrybean - Thanks for helping out SandyBrit.
annhig - not sure what happened with Women in Black - I think I was just expecting too much. I could definitely see where the Temple area would be used for filming, it's as if time has stood still there. I didn't know that about the gas lamps - fascinating. And thanks for the tip about lunch. My mom and I may be going this fall (she's the Rumpole fanatic) and will definitely check it out. If you didn't find Italy, the link is below.
SandyBrit Yes, we were very lucky weather-wise in England. Not so much when we got home.
Sue_xx_yy - Thanks for the Rumpole tip.
------------------------------------
For those of you who may be interested in following us in our travels, after London, we flew to Italy for three weeks:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34947512
And then back to England for Christmas:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34961337
Oct 3rd, 2008, 09:32 AM
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rickmav - Don't know how I missed this before, but glad that it came up as I was doing a search. Thoroughly enjoyed your trip report, esp your description of V&A and the IWM. I have been to the IWM once before, but it was a very hurried visit. I didn't even know there is a 1940s house, so I'll go look for it on my next visit.
Oct 3rd, 2008, 08:53 PM
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I didn't realise this thread was a bit "old",I really enjoyed reading it rickmav, thanks. For all those going to London it will be very helpful.
I need to find your other reports now, it sounds like they are just as good.
Schnauzer
I need to find your other reports now, it sounds like they are just as good.
Schnauzer
Oct 4th, 2008, 02:05 AM
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Since this has come back up to the top, the flat I've rented several times is now listed at www.aplacelikehome.co.uk & is listed under Studios (though it's very large for a studio) & you can find it under L47 Egerton Gardens.
