Hi, Bob! Really enjoying your report. Makes me want to go back to Europe (just when I was truly getting into the swing of Asia!). You're lucky to have had such a trip with a family/friends group (well, two groups). Keep it coming! And yes, loving the details.
Karen

Tuesday

up about 7 to the piddle pattle of rain...this was our day for florence...off by 9AM....we easily found our way up to the piazza san michaengelo overlooking florence where we had decided to leave the car for the day (free by the way), as we would have to be up there about 5:30...you cannot drive in central florence without a special pass by the way....by this time the sun was out....

karen had seen something about an annual international iris show up there, on the internet....we sought it out and the gardens were just next to the parking lot....the plants and flowers were huge and beautiful....we really enjoyed seeing many unusual blooms in beds outside, not in a greenhouse........we must have spent an hour there...

we walked down the hill and along the river....chris was now ready for his cafe....and we were all ready for a bathroom...one was located along the arno river....chris loved the coffee and we all loved the bathroom stop...

one note....in italy you save a great deal of money by taking your cafe at the bar and not sitting down....cafe at a bar is .60 Euros to maybe 1.25 euros....sitting down it can be 3-4 euros or more..

we spent the rest of the morning walking on the petti palace side of the river---"the other side" some might call it....we really like this area, especially the part further upstream from the ponte vecchio bridge...

i remembered the small shop/bar where karen and i had had lunch two years ago in this area, and we found it again and it was perfect for quick sandwiches/quiche
and drinks and dessert...

sandy bought a wonderful pair of leather gloves at a nice shop along the way...she also bought some lovely serving pieces for her daughter in laws birthday...


we walked across the ponte vecchio viewing some of the jewelry along the way....headed for the piazza della signoria...we wandered around....karen bought a pair of shoes....

we ended up over near to the duomo church where there were of course hordes of people...we took tons of pics, especially of the ghiberti doors on the baptistry...

it started to rain a bit so we ducked into a wonderful ice cream shop near to the dei mori B&B where we had been sent by peter for ice cream two years ago....it was fantastic!!

then the rain abated a bit so we walked on further....rain was approaching again just as we passed the old straw market so we went in under the tarp covers there to shop....all stalls....karen bought a bunch of scarves made of linen and some of silk and linen and an unusual pashmina of wool...sandy bought a few things also..

the rain stopped again....

another cafe stop--this time one of the famous ones in the republic plaza...

we headed for a bus stop we had seen along the river which would take us up to the piazza michaelangelo....

i had pre-arranged to meet boblax (kishore) from CT (a Fodorite) up at the church in back of the michelangelo for the special daily Gregorian "monk chant" at 5:40PM...by this time it was really pouring and we got soaked..cjhris drove his car to just in front of the church....we entered the church and heard the chanting coming from the crept....on entering the crept, i spotted kisore and his wife....we shook hands....we were all to have dinner together...after the service we decided to take the #13 bus back down the hill as it was still pouring...little did we know that while the bus made a big circle it was really a big circle taking us to the far side of florence...the ride was pleasant enough but it made us over 30 minutes late for our reservation at the Bordino Restaurant, near to the ponte vecchio....we telephoned them from the bus, thanks to sandy's english based cellphone, and they said no problem...this restaurant specializes in the famous Florentine steaks....they are only available in the florence area...they are made from the meat of a special cow which only thrives in the hills above florence...

the dinner was delicious and most of us had the steak, but not all....it is always cooked rare and has a very special taste...

more than the dinner however we enjoyed meeting kishore's wife, and chris and sandy enjoyed meeting them both....it was a lovely evening ...the restaurant was not that busy, so they just left us alone to talk, etc...

we had the restaurant call a taxi to take us back up the hill...expensive at 11E for a 5 minute ride but worth ever cent...none of us could have made it up the hill and it was very dark!!

it took over an hour to drive back to our house in the country....

now i need to catch up on my asia board reading....more later or tomorrow morning if i run out of time tonight...

wednesday

late breakfast..

spent the morning around the house, sitting in the sun, writing postcards, etc...

later we had leftovers on the deck for lunch...

karen and sandy caught the sun up by the pool...

about 3PM, we headed off for the 2nd most sacred roman catholic site in italy...it is the monastary at La Verna, where St Francis spent considerable time....this is a lovely spot very high up in the hills and totally issolated.... today there is a monastary and convent on this site...it is a frequent retreat and pilgrimage site... the current site dates to 1224 AD, but most of the buildings were built in the 1800's....this site is famous for its della robia tablets of which there are many, and some very massive ones--some are said to be the finest in existence today....we enjoyed our stay there although none of us are religious...it was very peaceful and there were not many people there, save a couple of school groups...

on our return we stopped at the co-op grocery shop...

peter had invited us to drinks and dinner in his portion of the house...he had asked us to pick up a few things for him...we also stopped at his local wine shop where you buy both red and white wine in 5 litre bottles, which you bring with you---6.9E per bottle...its quite good also...

they are also a vendor for regular bottled wine and we purchased some as well as olive oil to bring home to usa...

at 7:45 we joined peter on his porch for some champagne (asti)...he had a bottle and we brought one as well...

we retired to his lovely dining room where he told us we were going to have a "picking" meal.....their part of the house is beautifully furnished and they have a wonderful collection of original art....the meal started out with the most delicious lentil soup, which he had made...then there was pasta with pesto....and then the picking began...he brought in ham, olives, cheeses, pickles, pears, a wonderful candied fruit with a mustard/horshradish sauce, and a salad of walnuts, pears, cheeses and greens...there was also quiche...

for dessert he had made a crushed merrange with mascapone cheese and fresh strawberries and yogurt and kiwi dish...it was magnificent and delicious...

there were several wines to try and he followed it off with coffees and brandy...

this was a wonderful and enjoyable evening...what a host!!

we waddled and swayed back to our part of the house and went right to bed...

I'm still enjoying this report, Bob. Please keep it coming. Did you make it to the little B&B I told you about in Monteleone?

How many pairs of SHOES does Karen have??? I know she bought loads of pairs in BKK... where does she keep them all??? lol I thought I was a shoe-aholic. She has me beat, I think.

Carol

carol...she has cut way down after she saw what happened to mrs marcos...

we did not make it to that town at all unfortunately...next time...

Thursday

headed to cortona in the morning...

as we left our village we stopped at the large ceramic factory that we had observed as we came and went to the main road....the terrace table that peter and danny have is from there (although it is a huge piece of hand-painted stone) and peter said they welcome visitors...

we spent quite a while looking through their various showrooms...lots of nice stuff....sandy bought a whole lot of things as she had the car to take things home...she especially was pleased with the sunflower design set she bought for desserts... karen bought a couple of things....the table we wanted was 1600 E and weighed about 200+ pounds so we had to leave it behind...sad!!

cortona is another hilltop town...unlike some of the others it looks out onto a huge plain, which makes it even more dramatic...

the town is quite attractive and more tourist oriented than the other towns we have visited....not in a negetive way really....it was very nice....

i found a photo shop as i needed to download my one GB stick to cd's (2)....450 pics....it was done while we ate lunch (10E)...

we walked around the town a bit...the square is very attractive....we found a wonderful terrace restaurant overlooking the square....they were very unwelcoming and even rude so i refused to sit down...karen was mad..

there was an american woman in a wedding dress having her pics taken in front of the church...some of the party were having lunch near-by....a destination wedding i guess...

we moved back to the main street and found a wonderful sidewalk cafe where we had a great lunch...

we left this town about 3:15 and headed back to arezzo to walk around some more as so many of the shops had been closed on sunday....a very very nice town...quite large for this area...wonderful old buildings...our first stop was in the house of a doctor/engineer/scientist of a prior century....nothing was in english but his library and some of the rooms were very attractive...

we walked around for about 2 hours...

from there we headed to Poppi where we had a dinner reservation...we had great expectations, as both danny and peter had built this place up as excellent....it is very attractive, but that is where our pleasure ended...the name is L'Antica Cantina....

the service was mediocre and the food was only fair (cold, not fresh, unimaginitive, etc and expensive) ....our first real failure...i will leave it at that....peter was mad when we told him, and said he will be speaking with the owner...they have sent lots of people there in the past and do not want to continue if things have changed.....

i was so hungary on the way home that i made them stop to get me something else to eat--take out...

Friday

slow start in the AM...did not even wake up until 8:30...

did some laundry as it was a nice drying day...

peter had suggested the woolen mill in stia as a good shopping place, although he did not know exactly where it was in the town, but danny telephoned from florence and gave directions...

the nite before peter had fallen on the front steps and hurt his hand...he went to the hospital at karen's suggestion...he was in quite a bit of pain...only a bad sprain....

so off to stia again...we found the factory next to the river at one end of town...what a find!!! the company name is Tessilnova...a century ago or so they perfected the manufacture of a type of wool that was copied from the coats worn by horses to keep them warm in winter and later by the shepards....it is a nubbly type wool fabric...the traditional colors are a very bright orange and a strong green...more recently they have added other colors...

karen went wild....she bought enough for a vest and a coat...she will have these made in thailand next fall..

they also now manufacture very special cashmere fabrics....karen bought a two sided (reversable) piece to also have fashioned into a jacket with a hood in thailand...i will not reveal the price but it was V E R Y expensive...!!! it is beige color on one side and sort of a chocolate brown on the other side...

this stop then allowed us to return to the wonderful restaurant in the main square in Stia for lunch....

they remembered us from sunday and we had another great meal....

i forgot to mention that when peter returned from the hospital karen invited him to join us for dinner...we went with another of his suggestions which was also in a hilltop town....

so after stia, we decided to go to the hilltop town of Riggiolo...it is very enchanting...much of the town has been redone...there is lots of rental property and in fact the restaurant is part of a "resort"....they have rooms and houses and apartments for rent as well as a pool.... (il Convivio dei Corsi is the name)....parking is a bit difficult, but not impossible...

we had tea with peter on the pool deck after our return..

peter then invited us to come for a drink before we left for the restaurant...very lovely setting on his terrace and of course more good wine...

the reataurant is very attractive both inside and out....the service was fabulous...there was only one other party besides us....the waitress spoke decent english....

as it turned out this was the best meal of our trip!!!

plates were delivered to the table with flower decorations....the food was very elegant and delicious....everything was warm to hot and beautifully presented....the wines were delicious...i can't say enough for this place...

we were presented with a welcomming bubbly drink and a fanciful hor d'oeuvre (1)...after dessert we were again presented with a complimentary cordial...amazingly the dinner was only 36 E per person....amazing!!! and delicious...

drive home and bed....

Saturday

up about 7 and had a nice breakfast and finished our packing as we must leave this AM....about 9:30 we are off heading for pisa...a fond farwell to la massa and our host peter...

karen had requested a stop in Lucca....i have to say that we were disappointed in general...it is not a bad place, just not fabulous as we had been led to believe...spent about 3 hours there....got a great parking space inside the wall in a pay and display spot...had a quick lunch at a sidewalk cafe--just sandwiches...

off to pisa...on entering town we saw a carrefour dept store and we stopped as we now needed an extra suitcase...found a 22 inche rolly for 9E, if you can believe it...perfect...

we had a city map for our hotel location...we were to have one nite at the Hotel Alessandro della Spina on via allessandro della spina...this is a great little 3 star hotel (125 E) with a private parking place out back and a delicious buffet breakfast...very centrally located...a short bus ride to the leaning tower....

after checking in and getting settled in our very nice rooms we decide to hike over to the dummo...too far, so we take the local bus...we spend an hour or two around the church and leaning tower of pisa...most of the buildings have been cleaned on the exterior in the last couple of years and they look quite nice...there are tons of people there and tons of vendors selling every kind of junk you can imagine...

we returned to the hotel and invited chris and sandy into our room for a glass of wine and the remaining cheese for tuscany....

the front desk suggested a restaurant to us...we had a terrible time finding it....karen says by the time we found it i was in a "pissy mood" which is putting it mildly...it had also started to rain...

i made poor choices from the menu...karen and chris sharred a florentine steak which was delicious...did not record sandy's dinner....the restaurant is the Galileo on via silvestri, very close to the river...

back to the hotel for bed...

Sunday

now for the highlight of karen's trip...

lovely breakfast at the hotel...no added taxes on our bill..

we are off to Levanto, the town just north of the cinque terre towns... we drove along the shore towns on our way from pisa...in viareggio, a lovely seaside resort town, we found many people strolling the waterfront and shops...we spent about an hour here, having an ice cream cone for refreshment... we stayed along the beach road although shortly we were detoured because of a bicycle race along the beach...finally we got past all of that...i hate bicycle people---in NE they think they own the road and can break all the rules!!! gpanda is a good example of this!!
we stopped for lunch in the town of marina di montignoso...a lovely little town...a very high end antiques fair was on in the town square...we had delicious pizzas at a restaurant that one of the antique vendors sent us to...

we were now heading for levanto and to the B&B Villa Margherita....both this hotel and the Pisa ones were taken from rick steeves book on italy...

we found the B&B quite easily after decending a huge and twisty road from the mountain top to the sea...they (the B&B) also have private parking, in a garage in fact on their property...

slight problem upon arrival....they had only reserved one room for us nd they were full....i was not pleased as i had made these reservations months in advance...the owner did make good on it however and gave each of us an apartment not too far from the B&B---3 minute walk....we actually lucked out and he reduced the 110E fee to 85 E.....karen and i had a nicely equiped 3 bedroom apartment, and sandy and chris had an acceptable one bedroom apartment in the next building...theirs was a bit odd, but was acceptable...we took our breakfasts at the B&B and that was a decent buffet...they offer free internet in the lounge...i would suggest that if you want to visit cinque terre that this town is a wonderful place to stay and this B&B very nice indeed...even though he made a huge mistake, he did fix it immediately...we felt that after visiting the CT towns and seeing their logistic problems, that the problems with getting to them and to the hotels/accomodations was not worth the effort, so this town makes much more sense...

we settled in and then were off to explore the town....as we met S&C outside their flat, a nice young woman spoke to us in english (her bikini outfit helped lift c's and my attitudes)...she turned out to be russian, lives below S&C's flat building and works in the tourist office...she gave us good info....

we walked along the very long beach front quai...beach was wide and sandy...we scouted out where the boats go from to cinque terre as the russian lady had reconfirmed my research that this is the best way to see cinque terre---from a boat....the boat leaves daily at 1010 from levanto and returns about 1820....we then planned that this is what we would do the next day...we sat in the sun quite a while waiting for the 6:20 boat to return so we could scope out the situation...it came in right on time and dropped off sunday's tourists...

overlooking the harbor and boat pier is a huge estate which we were told is the angenelli house---fiat family...quite nice!!!

about 7, we began to look for a restaurant...i spotted one sign that looked nice so we explored it...the owner was most welcoming so we knew it was for us--no one was inside and we asked if it was too early and he said no, come in...the name is ristorante moresco....it is on via d. viviani, next to the stella maris hotel..we all had the 20E set meal which was filling and delicious...there was not an empty table by 8:30 so we knew we had made a good choice...the owner was most welcoming and made us feel very much at home...highly suggested!!

after dinner we walked up the hill to the apartments and bed...

Monday

karen declares this to be: CINQUE TERRE DAY!!!

lovely breakfast at the B&B...it has nice sitting areas in its garden by the way...we did not use them however..

we met one american couple there who were spending 6 days... the CT area is famous for hiking from town to town...not suggested for lazy american senior citizens however....we did see lots of folks who did do just that however...

we went by the tourist office and were in fact there before it opened...it is at the end of the main street near the beach quai...we got a map of both the town of levanto and the cinque terre towns....

we headed to the boat dock...the fee is 22E per person for as many ons and offs of the boat as you wish for one full day...it departs at 1010 from levanto and there is a written schedule for each of the stops...the boat stops at every town, save one...it does not stop at Corniglia...

the other options to visit these towns are to walk from one to another, the total time which is about 5 hours or to take the very frequent train service (much of the time you are in tunnels)...

we decided that we would take the boat from levaton all the way to the end and then work our way back using the boat schedule to guide us for the times...so we were off...the weather was clear with a slight haze...we stopped at each of the towns along the way and people got on and got off...finally we reached the last town of Portovenere...this is a fabulous town, which would also make an alternative town for staying to levanto...the town is very attractive and quite large...the tourist structure is well in place...the harbor is lovely and lined with restaurants...there are many shops...interesting churches and one main street to stroll along...we explore and find a wonderful sandwich place for lunch...warm italian sandwiches...from there we caught the 2:15 boat...

next stop is Riomaggiore... lots of steps and really hilly...all the houses are colorful...multistoried houses...as many as 7 levels...it looked difficult to navigate so we did not stay here too long...took the next boat to Vernazza...we skipped a town or two that looked less interesting and small and hard to climb into...

all of this area of cinque terre is a national park....all along the way there are grape terraces and the hills--high hills- cascade down to the ocean...it is quite picturesque...the boat commentator told us that one small settlement had access only from the sea and that it is 1000 steps to enter it...

vernazza has the most restaurants, etc...it is a lovely town and again very attractive...the small harbor is unique...we spent some time here looking around and finsihed it off with a drink in the main square at a cafe....

we boarded the 1750 boat back to levanto...last boat of the day...

a splendid day all told...karen loved it...

we decided to eat in a fish restaurant on the quai upon our return, instead of climbing up the hill to the apartments first....they were a bit unfriendly and would not even allow us to sit on their deck until they opened...so we decided to return to the Moresco in town...unfortunately they were closed this evening....we scouted around a bit and found what looked to be a new place on a back street...bob will never take the obvious places and keeps pushing on much to karen's discust!! of course it proved to be a perfect choice...bob scores!! the name is ristorante Rino on via Garibaldi...place soon was full of locals which is a good sign...staff were very accomodating...food was delicious...

we walked back home and packed up a bit as we were to leave in the morning for Nice....

i will finish off the report tonight with some final thoughts...

Hello rhkkmk, again I am so enjoying your trip report except for the fact it makes me miss beautiful Italy more than ever, if that is possible!! It is so nice that you and your friends travel together so well. They sound like a wonderful couple.

I have also enjoyed reading your report.
We were in Italy last month - spent Easter weekend in Lerici, and took the ferry from there to Portovenere and the CT, so I've been reliving that with you and your friends.

Tuesday---last full day of vacation

breakfast about 8:30.. car packed up and we were on our way...

the drive to Nice from Levanto was about 3 hours, all highway and another huge toll....we found our ugly hotel, Hotel Comfort Galaxie---free with comfort points very close to the airport....they should have paid us to stay there quite honestly....karen had to keep reminding me that it was free....it is directly next to the novotel and the cap 3000 mall...galixie was a so called 3 star but i would rate it 1.5 star....they had a sign up for 170E for the following week for the monaco race week....ARE YOU NUTS!!!???

we walked over to the mall to get some lunch before saying goodbye to sandy and chris....nice little lunch in a pizza place...sort of a chain restaurant....not any decent restaurants in this mall, btw....

we took the train from the st laurent station into nice after saying our thank yous and good byes to sandy and chris...they had to rush back to collobrieres (1.5 hour drive) as they had to pack up, as they were leaving the next morning for england....

we had no map, but found the "i" just next to the station...we had a nice walk down into the main shopping part of town...we walked along the main street and then entered the old part of nice....we visited the two famous olive oil shops near the beginning and in the 2nd one we bought quite a few gifts and some fancy oils for ourselves...

we spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around the old city area...

finally we stopped at a wine/beer place and had a drink...the waiter was very friendly so we asked him about dinner...we had seen a mussel place but he said it was only so so....he then suggested another place also near-by...name: La Table Alziari, 4 rue francois Zanin....fabulous last meal!! we ate outside, but there was an inside also---very small place in an alley almost...

i had cold eggplant with tomatoe sauce and karen had stuffed fresh sardines (fantastic)....i then had a rolled thinly cut beef which was stuffed with herbs and cooked in red wine...it was served with noodles...fantastic and very tasty...karen had veal stuffed with potatoe and sausage, mixed braised veggies and french fries...we had a 1/2 caraff of white wine which was quite decent, two fabulous deserts...bottom line 60E....

we wandered back to the train station and got the 2208 train back to st laurent du var

a little repacking and bed...not uncomfortable honestly....glad there were no bugs...

Wednesday, May 17

we had bought some pastry in the old part of nice so we had it for our breakfast in the room...there was a coffee maker for karen and i had my usual cold water....there was a fridge...

the hotel ordered a taxi for us and it was there in less than 10 minutes...15E for the four minute ride---rip-off....

very slow checking in and we were last...i had again misread or mis remembered the flight time by one hour...i heard about that...!!

they put us in the exit row which was quite nice...

easy flight...

charles de gaulle is still in a mess from the roof collapse some time ago...much in terminal two is temporary...it was quite a walk and not moving walkways...up and down...pain...this also ment that it was bus gates which we hate!! the nice flight was a bus gate as well...
who has ever heard of a bus gate for international???
we departed from term. 2E...warning, there is no restaurant there only a snack bar...we had a wait of a couple of hours...

decent flight to boston, but the food was poor in comparison to the flight over to paris...interesting...


all in all this was a splendid trip...lots of planning on my part...alterations in our method of travel because of our grand daughter, but it all worked wonderfully....we had a great time...we look forward to a return to both tuscany and VAR in the near future...full retirement is right around the corner...

thank you all for your kind comments...

now the countdown is on for our october trip to thailand with india sandwiched in the middle..

au revoir

great report bob as usual.....to bad they didn't have those Bangkok Marriot pastries in the morning..lol
Aloha!

You make me want ot go to Italy and France!

Loved your comments of ordering wrong in restaurants. I am finding more and more (especially when I dine with a group) how this can affect one's feelings about a place. Sometimes I'll have such different memories of a place and I know it can't be that we had different servers or tables!!

Bob
Enjoyed your report, as always. I note you spent some time in Viarreggio, walking along the beach street. DH and I spent a night on this beach a year ago spring. It was one of those "drive into town for a look" sort of discovery. Very nice!! We enjoyed a pizza and chianti dinner there.

Have fun planning your next Thailand trip. I'm sure Karen can't wait to have her tailor-made items done there.

Carol

Bob
Again, thanks so much for sharing your vacation with us and please thank Karen for keeping such detailed notes.

Look forward to reading your next report.

Pat