Review of Politian Apartments, Montepulciano
Jul 8th, 2005, 07:09 AM
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Review of Politian Apartments, Montepulciano
Hello all! My husband and I spent one week of our June honeymoon in the Politian apartments in Montepulciano. We had a perfect week, and I wanted to share my SlowTrav review on this board as well. So here goes! 
LOCATION
The apartment is located within the town of Montepulciano. It is in a perfect location- very close to all of the "downtown" amenities, but a little bit out of the way so that it's very quiet. It is located within a row of houses, and the street has a beautiful view of Tuscany (and many benches that allow you to sit and enjoy it!)
NEARBY AMENITIES
We were able to walk to everything. The Piazza Grande was just a few minutes away, and we could walk to the main shopping area in probably 7-10 minutes. There is also a small city bus that you can ride if you prefer. A large grocery store, Conrad, is on the other end of town. While it is physically possible to walk, some might prefer to take the bus to this area. However, there are plenty of small shops with the basic amenities nearby- and many wineries! The apartment was about 2 minutes' walk from our favorite restaurant, the Osteria Acquacheta. This is a must-visit!
THE HOUSE/APARTMENT
We stayed in Apartment #2, which was on the top floor of this particular building (I believe there may have been two floors below at most). Giacomo and his family own most of the buildings, which is nice because they are right there if you need anything. The place was very quiet. We hardly noticed any noise from other apartments, though the occasional motorcycle passed outside the window.
**Please be warned that getting to Apartment #2 requires climbing up many outside steps.** This was not a problem for us, but if you have any sort of physical ailment, you might want to be wary. Fewer steps are required for Apartment #1.
GARDEN
There is a lovely garden behind the house, which we had to pass through in order to reach our apartment. While we were there, Giacomo was waiting on the delivery of some outdoor furniture, so perhaps future visitors can report on this aspect.
FURNISHINGS/CLEANLINESS/LIVING AREA
The apartment itself was beautiful and spacious. It is furnished very tastefully, with lovely antique-looking pieces, and very clean and well-kept. We felt completely at home the moment we walked in.
It was just my husband and me in the apartment, so there was plenty of space for us. However, this apartment would easily accommodate an entire family-with some careful planning for the one bathroom!
The living/dining area was lovely, complete with a fireplace (which we didn't use in June). There were two extremely comfortable leather chairs, and a CD player with a few jazz and classical albums. There is also a 4-person kitchen table, and a dresser filled with maps and guidebooks of the area. In addition, there are many books throughout the house. Though I don't speak Italian at all, I enjoyed looking through the pictures in some of the books!
LOCATION
The apartment is located within the town of Montepulciano. It is in a perfect location- very close to all of the "downtown" amenities, but a little bit out of the way so that it's very quiet. It is located within a row of houses, and the street has a beautiful view of Tuscany (and many benches that allow you to sit and enjoy it!)
NEARBY AMENITIES
We were able to walk to everything. The Piazza Grande was just a few minutes away, and we could walk to the main shopping area in probably 7-10 minutes. There is also a small city bus that you can ride if you prefer. A large grocery store, Conrad, is on the other end of town. While it is physically possible to walk, some might prefer to take the bus to this area. However, there are plenty of small shops with the basic amenities nearby- and many wineries! The apartment was about 2 minutes' walk from our favorite restaurant, the Osteria Acquacheta. This is a must-visit!
THE HOUSE/APARTMENT
We stayed in Apartment #2, which was on the top floor of this particular building (I believe there may have been two floors below at most). Giacomo and his family own most of the buildings, which is nice because they are right there if you need anything. The place was very quiet. We hardly noticed any noise from other apartments, though the occasional motorcycle passed outside the window.
**Please be warned that getting to Apartment #2 requires climbing up many outside steps.** This was not a problem for us, but if you have any sort of physical ailment, you might want to be wary. Fewer steps are required for Apartment #1.
GARDEN
There is a lovely garden behind the house, which we had to pass through in order to reach our apartment. While we were there, Giacomo was waiting on the delivery of some outdoor furniture, so perhaps future visitors can report on this aspect.
FURNISHINGS/CLEANLINESS/LIVING AREA
The apartment itself was beautiful and spacious. It is furnished very tastefully, with lovely antique-looking pieces, and very clean and well-kept. We felt completely at home the moment we walked in.
It was just my husband and me in the apartment, so there was plenty of space for us. However, this apartment would easily accommodate an entire family-with some careful planning for the one bathroom!
The living/dining area was lovely, complete with a fireplace (which we didn't use in June). There were two extremely comfortable leather chairs, and a CD player with a few jazz and classical albums. There is also a 4-person kitchen table, and a dresser filled with maps and guidebooks of the area. In addition, there are many books throughout the house. Though I don't speak Italian at all, I enjoyed looking through the pictures in some of the books!
Jul 8th, 2005, 07:10 AM
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BEDROOMS/BATHROOM
There are two bedrooms: the master bedroom is quite large, and has a beautiful canopy bed, a dresser, cedar chest and armoire, and a small sitting area and table (complete with chess set!) There are two large windows in the room, with beautiful views of Tuscany- of course!
The second bedroom has two single beds, which we only used for napping (quite comfortable!) as there were only two of us. This room also had two seats by the window, a large dresser, and a beautiful writing desk.
There is one bathroom, which is small but adequate. The shower is tiny, stall-only (no tub). Though we didn’t find it to be any smaller than others we used in Europe, I feel it should be noted.
KITCHEN
The kitchen was perfectly adequate. There is a small refrigerator, stove, and range, along with a coffee maker. We were able to find plenty of pots and pans, and there were lots of dishes, glasses, wine glasses, etc. We did not do any full-scale cooking, but did buy some pici and jarred sauce from a local market. We were able to cook easily and enjoyed this quiet evening at home!
PROBLEMS OR BONUSES
We were very excited to find that there is a small washing machine in the apartment. However, it takes a VERY long time. We ended up turning it on the morning and returning later in the day to hang things out to dry. There is a laundry place in town that works just fine for a few euros, if you don't want to wait for the washer.
Also, the bathroom shower is a bit small, so just be prepared for that. It is a stall only (no tub). We didn't find it to be any smaller than others in Europe, but I do feel that should be noted.
Otherwise, the best surprise was just the apartment itself- realizing that it was truly everything we had dreamed of for our honeymoon!
There are two bedrooms: the master bedroom is quite large, and has a beautiful canopy bed, a dresser, cedar chest and armoire, and a small sitting area and table (complete with chess set!) There are two large windows in the room, with beautiful views of Tuscany- of course!
The second bedroom has two single beds, which we only used for napping (quite comfortable!) as there were only two of us. This room also had two seats by the window, a large dresser, and a beautiful writing desk.
There is one bathroom, which is small but adequate. The shower is tiny, stall-only (no tub). Though we didn’t find it to be any smaller than others we used in Europe, I feel it should be noted.
KITCHEN
The kitchen was perfectly adequate. There is a small refrigerator, stove, and range, along with a coffee maker. We were able to find plenty of pots and pans, and there were lots of dishes, glasses, wine glasses, etc. We did not do any full-scale cooking, but did buy some pici and jarred sauce from a local market. We were able to cook easily and enjoyed this quiet evening at home!
PROBLEMS OR BONUSES
We were very excited to find that there is a small washing machine in the apartment. However, it takes a VERY long time. We ended up turning it on the morning and returning later in the day to hang things out to dry. There is a laundry place in town that works just fine for a few euros, if you don't want to wait for the washer.
Also, the bathroom shower is a bit small, so just be prepared for that. It is a stall only (no tub). We didn't find it to be any smaller than others in Europe, but I do feel that should be noted.
Otherwise, the best surprise was just the apartment itself- realizing that it was truly everything we had dreamed of for our honeymoon!
Jul 8th, 2005, 07:10 AM
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AGENCY AND PRICE
We booked directly with Giacomo, the owner, based on recommendations on this board and Fodors.com. The website represents the apartment very accurately, and Giacomo was a pleasure to work with. He was very helpful with providing information to us, and even welcomed us to our honeymoon with a bottle of champagne.
We paid 450 Euros for a week in June, which we felt was completely reasonable given the space and location.
DO YOU RECOMMEND THIS RENTAL?
Absolutely! We will definitely be staying there again, and have already told many of our friends we are planning to bring them back with us. We adored Montepulciano, and the apartment was absolutely perfect. There are no qualifications at all to this recommendation, other than making people aware of the steps outside.
THINGS TO DO IN THIS AREA
As mentioned above, we loved Osteria Acquacheta. We actually went twice, for dinner and lunch. It is right near the apartment, and has absolutely fantastic homemade food. It has a "rustic" feel to it, and is very reasonably priced. It is the best place to go for simple, wonderful food- pici with ragu, Tuscan sausage, bruschetta pomodoro, and, if you're up for it, one of the steaks! (they are huge; we didn't get one).
Each morning we ate breakfast at Caffe Poliziano. Though the restaurant is expensive, the bar is a steal- cappuccino, espresso and two pastries for 3.65E. Can't be beat, and it was delicious
Others we enjoyed were Diva e Maceo, Trattoria di Cagnano, and Grotta di Nano. We were not thrilled with Ai Quattro Venti. It didn't have a particularly warm or friendly atmosphere, but since we only went once, that could just have been our luck.
We didn't rent a car, and enjoyed staying in Montepulciano and thoroughly exploring the town. We bought a little guidebook from the tourist office which provided a "walking itinerary" of the town by way of explaining the history and significance of each building.
In addition, we did a "wine tasting" tour of the town, because there are so many. This helped us decide which bottles to bring home! We had fun exploring the cellars as well. You must visit Cantina Redi- we discovered the "secret" entrance near the Piazza Grande, which leads you through the winding, cavernous cellars right to the door of the Cantina.
The Temple of San Biagio is a must (about a 1/2 mile down the hill). We hiked one day to Pienza, which was beautiful; it took about 4-5 hours. You could also take the bus there and back. One trip we saved for next time is a bus to Montalcino; from there, we were also going to visit the Abbey.
My husband bought a beautiful briefcase at "The Oldest Shop in Montepulciano," a leather goods store right across from Caffe Poliziano. It is worth a look even if you don't buy anything.
We booked directly with Giacomo, the owner, based on recommendations on this board and Fodors.com. The website represents the apartment very accurately, and Giacomo was a pleasure to work with. He was very helpful with providing information to us, and even welcomed us to our honeymoon with a bottle of champagne.
We paid 450 Euros for a week in June, which we felt was completely reasonable given the space and location.
DO YOU RECOMMEND THIS RENTAL?
Absolutely! We will definitely be staying there again, and have already told many of our friends we are planning to bring them back with us. We adored Montepulciano, and the apartment was absolutely perfect. There are no qualifications at all to this recommendation, other than making people aware of the steps outside.
THINGS TO DO IN THIS AREA
As mentioned above, we loved Osteria Acquacheta. We actually went twice, for dinner and lunch. It is right near the apartment, and has absolutely fantastic homemade food. It has a "rustic" feel to it, and is very reasonably priced. It is the best place to go for simple, wonderful food- pici with ragu, Tuscan sausage, bruschetta pomodoro, and, if you're up for it, one of the steaks! (they are huge; we didn't get one).
Each morning we ate breakfast at Caffe Poliziano. Though the restaurant is expensive, the bar is a steal- cappuccino, espresso and two pastries for 3.65E. Can't be beat, and it was delicious
Others we enjoyed were Diva e Maceo, Trattoria di Cagnano, and Grotta di Nano. We were not thrilled with Ai Quattro Venti. It didn't have a particularly warm or friendly atmosphere, but since we only went once, that could just have been our luck.
We didn't rent a car, and enjoyed staying in Montepulciano and thoroughly exploring the town. We bought a little guidebook from the tourist office which provided a "walking itinerary" of the town by way of explaining the history and significance of each building.
In addition, we did a "wine tasting" tour of the town, because there are so many. This helped us decide which bottles to bring home! We had fun exploring the cellars as well. You must visit Cantina Redi- we discovered the "secret" entrance near the Piazza Grande, which leads you through the winding, cavernous cellars right to the door of the Cantina.
The Temple of San Biagio is a must (about a 1/2 mile down the hill). We hiked one day to Pienza, which was beautiful; it took about 4-5 hours. You could also take the bus there and back. One trip we saved for next time is a bus to Montalcino; from there, we were also going to visit the Abbey.
My husband bought a beautiful briefcase at "The Oldest Shop in Montepulciano," a leather goods store right across from Caffe Poliziano. It is worth a look even if you don't buy anything.
Jul 8th, 2005, 01:42 PM
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Oh Tarheels, you've made me homesick for Montepulciano -- it was wonderful!
Tell me, is Osteria Acquacheta the restaurant that's owned by the fellow we ended up calling 'pony-tail guy'? If so, we had several meals there and enjoyed everyone of them. I also agree with you that Ai Quattro Venti is over-rated. My meal was so salty it was literally inedible. But I will always remember that meal because we shared the restaurant with Phil Donahue and Marlo Thomas and their party!
The other thing I'll always remember is sitting on what I think of as "the floating balcony" at the Cafe Poliziano overlooking Tuscany.
I think pretty much every residence in Montepulciano involves stairs since everything is built into or onto a hill. Our apartment was on four levels and the owner's place was up stairs from us on three levels. Can't quite figure that out but that's how it worked.
Anyway, thanks for your post -- it brought up some wonderful memories for me.
Tell me, is Osteria Acquacheta the restaurant that's owned by the fellow we ended up calling 'pony-tail guy'? If so, we had several meals there and enjoyed everyone of them. I also agree with you that Ai Quattro Venti is over-rated. My meal was so salty it was literally inedible. But I will always remember that meal because we shared the restaurant with Phil Donahue and Marlo Thomas and their party!
The other thing I'll always remember is sitting on what I think of as "the floating balcony" at the Cafe Poliziano overlooking Tuscany.
I think pretty much every residence in Montepulciano involves stairs since everything is built into or onto a hill. Our apartment was on four levels and the owner's place was up stairs from us on three levels. Can't quite figure that out but that's how it worked.
Anyway, thanks for your post -- it brought up some wonderful memories for me.
Jul 9th, 2005, 05:34 AM
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Excellent, in depth report...thanks.
hdm,
That <"the floating balcony" at the Cafe Poliziano overlooking Tuscany.> also overlooked( on the right hand side) the apartment that we had rented.
hdm,
That <"the floating balcony" at the Cafe Poliziano overlooking Tuscany.> also overlooked( on the right hand side) the apartment that we had rented.
Jul 9th, 2005, 07:05 AM
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hdm,
The apartment we rented was owned by the local pahrmacist and rented through parker.
Did you get to see the workshops at the top of the hill. We loved the copper and woodworking workshops at the top of the hill.
The apartment we rented was owned by the local pahrmacist and rented through parker.
Did you get to see the workshops at the top of the hill. We loved the copper and woodworking workshops at the top of the hill.
Jul 9th, 2005, 02:20 PM
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No we didn't see them -- I'm sure we missed about a thousand things on this trip. I've stopped reading people's Italy trip reports because I just get frustrated that someone saw something, did something, bought something, or ate or drank something that I didn't. We did go into a beautiful handicraft shop, though, on a little street running off the hill to the main square and an art gallery up (or down?) the street from our apartment where I bought a nice watercolour and two etchings.
Jul 11th, 2005, 11:41 AM
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Oh dear, I hope I didn't forget to include the website. It is www.politian.com.
hdm, that is certainly the same restaurant One of our favorite moments on the trip came from Acqucheta. When ready to pay, we asked our server for the check. Her reply was, "no, no, you must wait for Il Boss." If you have seen the pony-tailed man, you would certainly understand the title! (I apologize, this is probably a "had to be there" moment)
hdm, that is certainly the same restaurant
One of our favorite moments on the trip came from Acqucheta. When ready to pay, we asked our server for the check. Her reply was, "no, no, you must wait for Il Boss." If you have seen the pony-tailed man, you would certainly understand the title! (I apologize, this is probably a "had to be there" moment)
Jul 11th, 2005, 05:23 PM
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No, no, don't apologize! This is finally a 'moment' I can relate to! We were told by our landlords that they didn't usually go to Aquacheta because the owner (our pony-tail guy) was short-tempered and rude. I was so glad we ignored the warning because he was very friendly every time we were there. On two occasions we stayed so late that we closed the place, so engrossed were we in conversation with our table-mates. My mother-in-law (who doesn't travel) asked if we always had to share a table with strangers. It seemed like such an odd question to me -- isn't that one of the delights of travelling?
Jul 11th, 2005, 05:38 PM
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About a week ago on a thread about ordering Tuscan steaks well done instead of rare, it was Aquacheta I was referring to where the native Montepulciano sister who owned the apartment we rented said she always orders hers that way. I got mine very rare there and loved it, though.
We ate there two nights. Fun, but not what I'd call a great place foodwise. I also loved the idea that if you had house wine you only got one glass. If you ordered bottled water too, you had to alternate drinking wine or water out of the same glass -- a very plain jelly jar type drinking glass -- no stemware here! They made a big deal about that. All part of the ambiance.
We ate there two nights. Fun, but not what I'd call a great place foodwise. I also loved the idea that if you had house wine you only got one glass. If you ordered bottled water too, you had to alternate drinking wine or water out of the same glass -- a very plain jelly jar type drinking glass -- no stemware here! They made a big deal about that. All part of the ambiance.
Jul 12th, 2005, 06:41 AM
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Patrick- you're probably right; I should perhaps amend my recommendation to say that if you are searching for "fine dining," Acquacheta is not your speed! To me, it felt like a very authentic Tuscan experience...the type one might have at someone's home (with a LOT of friends over!). But it is not a gourment establishment.
Also, another small note for Patrick- thank you, once again, for sharing your Montepulciano hiking experience with us. Your "itinerary" helped us decide for certain that we did not want to rent a car, and it was the best decision we made! We hiked one day from Montepulciano to Pienza, and that was perfect for us.
Also, another small note for Patrick- thank you, once again, for sharing your Montepulciano hiking experience with us. Your "itinerary" helped us decide for certain that we did not want to rent a car, and it was the best decision we made! We hiked one day from Montepulciano to Pienza, and that was perfect for us.
Jul 12th, 2005, 07:54 AM
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You're welcome, Tarheels. I saw that note about hiking to Pienza and didn't respond before. Did you hike both ways or return by bus? Did you go through Montichiello? We took the bus to Pienza and hiked back that way. Just curious if you did the same in reverse.
I'm glad it worked out. There are times when I ask myself if I've only "pretended" we enjoyed not having a car. We had always intended to, but cancelled our rental after our wreck in Wales and we both were still a little shakey. We thought it was a great experience not having a car, but sometimes I just wonder if I was trying to talk myself into it. Glad to hear you had an equally successful time.
I'm glad it worked out. There are times when I ask myself if I've only "pretended" we enjoyed not having a car. We had always intended to, but cancelled our rental after our wreck in Wales and we both were still a little shakey. We thought it was a great experience not having a car, but sometimes I just wonder if I was trying to talk myself into it. Glad to hear you had an equally successful time.
Jul 12th, 2005, 08:02 AM
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I wanted to jump in here and ask about the hiking from Pienza to Montepulciano. Since we'll be staying in Montichiello, I'm interested in doing the segment from there to Pienza and/or from there to Montepulciano. Do you, Patrick, know whether there is a bus that goes to Montichiello from either of the other two towns, so that we don't have to hike round trip?
Jul 13th, 2005, 06:23 AM
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Patrick, in our situation, not having a car was truly perfect. Our goal was not to visit a lot of towns, specifically...we didn't come to Tuscany with a checklist of sights to see. For us, we really just wanted time to take it slow, soak in Tuscany (our first visit) and enjoy each other's company. So I wouldn't recommend never renting a car, certainly, but I do think that it can be a wonderful way to really enjoy one area. We may try renting a car on a future trip, but for this one, it was just perfect. I am glad to report that it IS possible to enjoy Tuscany without one
When we did our hike, we did stop in Montichiello for a gelato and a bit of exploring. Unfortunately, for fear of the heat (it was approaching noon), we didn't linger, but it really was a darling little town. We took the bus back from Pienza in the evening.
I unfortunately don't know much about the bus service in Montichiello, but I did see bus stops in the town. Perhaps you might try looking up LFI bus schedules to see? Or, once you get there, the tourist office will surely be able to help. I will say that for whatever reason, it felt as though the Montichiello-Pienza portion was straight uphill, so if you're going to go only one way, you might want to try the reverse But of course, after a 5-hour hike, that could entirely have just been a matter of perception!
When we did our hike, we did stop in Montichiello for a gelato and a bit of exploring. Unfortunately, for fear of the heat (it was approaching noon), we didn't linger, but it really was a darling little town. We took the bus back from Pienza in the evening.
I unfortunately don't know much about the bus service in Montichiello, but I did see bus stops in the town. Perhaps you might try looking up LFI bus schedules to see? Or, once you get there, the tourist office will surely be able to help. I will say that for whatever reason, it felt as though the Montichiello-Pienza portion was straight uphill, so if you're going to go only one way, you might want to try the reverse
But of course, after a 5-hour hike, that could entirely have just been a matter of perception!
Jul 13th, 2005, 06:43 AM
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Regarding bus service to Montechiello, yes there is some, but minimal. I do know that on the day of the market in Montepulciano there are several busses from Montechiello to Montepulciano, and on other days I think there is only one per day. I believe (but don't hold me to it, that is also the only bus that goes onwards to Pienza).
We met up with a youngish couple who were renting a "tower" in the Montechiello town wall for a week. They rented bikes and were traveling the area in those.
Another option is of course to hike from Montechiello to Montepulciano, take a bus to Pienza, and then hike from Pienza back to Montechiello. Or you can do that same route in reverse. There are several busses per day between Pienza and Montichiello. I also think you can stop on the road between those two larger cities and take a hiking shortcut to Montechiello.
We met up with a youngish couple who were renting a "tower" in the Montechiello town wall for a week. They rented bikes and were traveling the area in those.
Another option is of course to hike from Montechiello to Montepulciano, take a bus to Pienza, and then hike from Pienza back to Montechiello. Or you can do that same route in reverse. There are several busses per day between Pienza and Montichiello. I also think you can stop on the road between those two larger cities and take a hiking shortcut to Montechiello.
Jul 14th, 2005, 04:05 PM
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Tarheels, you wrote a terrific report about the apartment (we were in apartment #1 for a couple of days while Tarheels was in apartment #2). Sorry we didn't get much of a chance to visit, but it was nice meeting you.
I agree with all of Tarheels' observations about the apartment, and we were also very pleased with Montepulciano as a place to stay and as a base for seeing parts of Tuscany. I also wanted to post to tell Patrick that he was also responsible for our considering not having a car for most of our time in Montepulciano, and it worked out very well. We had arranged to have a car for the last two days there so that we could explore the countryside and a few other towns (Pienza, Montalcino, etc.), and this was a very good combination. We really enjoyed the slow pace of the town and spending time walking around in and around it. So thanks for your insights.
I agree with all of Tarheels' observations about the apartment, and we were also very pleased with Montepulciano as a place to stay and as a base for seeing parts of Tuscany. I also wanted to post to tell Patrick that he was also responsible for our considering not having a car for most of our time in Montepulciano, and it worked out very well. We had arranged to have a car for the last two days there so that we could explore the countryside and a few other towns (Pienza, Montalcino, etc.), and this was a very good combination. We really enjoyed the slow pace of the town and spending time walking around in and around it. So thanks for your insights.
Jul 20th, 2005, 07:31 AM
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jd_dallas, it was wonderful to meet you as well! I'm sorry our trips didn't match up a bit better, to allow for time to chat. Perhaps the next time And thank you very much for the wine! We brought it home with us to enjoy when we are missing Tuscany.
And thank you very much for the wine! We brought it home with us to enjoy when we are missing Tuscany.
Jul 20th, 2005, 07:54 AM
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Glad you enjoyed your trip and the apartment and your honeymoon. You described the place to a "T." I wasn't exaggerating about all the steps, was I? 
Can you imagine lugging the "kitchen sink" up and down?
Osteria Acquacheta was also our favorite restaurant there also -- a couple blocks down the street from the Apt. Yes, that's the place where the ponytail guy worked. We liked the guy -- he had a great, dry sense of humor. We even had the "big steak" there one night, and he barked at us for sending it back to cook it a little more. It was raw & cold on the inside.
Did you get by Crociani across the street for some of his vino da tavola?
Can you imagine lugging the "kitchen sink" up and down?Osteria Acquacheta was also our favorite restaurant there also -- a couple blocks down the street from the Apt. Yes, that's the place where the ponytail guy worked. We liked the guy -- he had a great, dry sense of humor. We even had the "big steak" there one night, and he barked at us for sending it back to cook it a little more. It was raw & cold on the inside.
Did you get by Crociani across the street for some of his vino da tavola?
