Retracing D-Day: Self-guided tour a mistake?
 

A traveling companion and I will rent a car and spend 2 days & nights in the Bayeux area in Sept, seeing as many of the D-Day sites as we can absorb. By opting for the freedom of our own car, we are sacrificing the professional narration of the guided tours. Our priorities: Omaha & Utah Beaches, St Mere Eglise, both American & German cemeteries, Arromanches, and one good museum.

(1) What are we leaving out?
(2) What is the most logical order to follow--east to west?
(3) Should the museum come at the beginning or the end? Is the big one at Caen the best? Unless it's pouring rain, we'd rather not spend more than a couple of hours in the museum. We are pretty knowledgable of the history already.
Seeking comments & advice from any who have done a self-guided tour of the Normandy beach areas. Thanks.

I would start with the Caen Memorial. (www.memorial-caen.fr) It will give you new ideas and information if you have missed anything.

For starters, on a 2 day trip I would eliminate Caen as a stop. The big museum has much more than DDAY and you would be giving up much more. Besides, tyou have already scheduled the best DDAY museum there at Arromanches which as a starting point will give you the best orientation you need.

Have your 2 nights in Bayeux and East-West or West-East is not a consideration. You shoul also not miss the Bayeux Tapestries while there.

Just go well prepared with good maps of the area including DDAy maps.

There is so much info for your trip right here on Fodor. Just scroll up to search and look for DDay and Normandy.You'll be here a long time.

I've yet to do this myself but I've spent quite a bit of time thinking through the same problem.

You only have a day, whereas we're planning two days for D-Day stuff and a third for the Bayeux tapestry, etc.

I think you should consider Utah and St Mere Eglise as one grouping, and Arromanches, Omaha beach, the associated US cemetery, and the nearby German cemetery as another.

Pick one grouping to be your priority and the other an 'as time permits' priority.

There are museums at both Utah beach and Arromanches that deal with the nature of the artificial harbours constructed once the first troops had landed and secured the beachheads. I'd let the tide dictate when I went to the museum.

Logan,
My husband and I just returned from our trip, which included a visit to the Normandy beaches. Although we are usually do-it-your-selfers, I ended up doing a half-day guided tour with Victory Tours, which we booked shortly before we left. We ended up being very thankful that we did. Are you considering the possiblity that you might want to do at least part of a guided tour or are you dead set against it? I found that having a knowledgable and passionate guide brought home the drama, the emotion and the experiences of the invasion in a way that I could never have gotten on our own, much as my husband is fairly knowledgable about the war.

We did a half-day tour, which ended up being 5 1/2 hours, and found that it was just perfect for our interests and, quite honestly, our attention span! It was just ourselves and one other couple, and that, too, made it very intimate.

We had gone to the Caen Museum the day before, and my husband found the movie on the invasion to be the most worthwhile part of the visit. He found the museum itself less interesting because he was well-versed in WWII history. I found it helpful but exhausting, but agree that the movie of the invasion worthwhile. It did inform my visit the next day, and it helped that I saw actual footage of the war that occurred on the beaches that I visited the next day.

If you do continue to do it on your own, the area is well-posted. If you are pressed for time, however, I would bypass St.-Mere Eglise, which is a one-incident town, with a replica of a soldier hanging on the church and several military surplus stores catering to tourists around the square.

Sue,
The Bayeux tapstry does not need a day to view-- we went late in the day last month and, including the film but bypassing the individual description of each panel, we were in and out in about 1 1/2 hours. That's giving ourselves plenty of time to hang about and absorb the tapestry on our own, even after the audio guide was done. The audio guide has a timed commentary that is fixed so that it guides people through without a chance to replay, keeping the line constantly moving.

The tour of the beaches and the American cemetary as well as viewing the tapestry were both extraordinary experiences.
Paule

"Pick one grouping to be your priority and the other an 'as time permits' priority."

It is beyond me,Sue,how you can possibly give Omaha Beach and the US Cemetary a "time permits priority" with Utah as a viable option.

I have been to the beach area 4 times in visits and there is no comparison to Arromanches by any Utah Beach museum.The Arromanches museum is much much more than about the artificial harbor. By the way, the second artificial harbor was at Omaha Beach. I am surprised to hear there is such a museum at Utah beach.

I would also say that looking at the Tapestries would not have to take a full day away from the beaches

PROGOL....The museum at Arromanches also has a movie on the landings. I wouldn't be surprised if it were some of the same footage at Caen

I've visited the Normandy battlefields a number of times, and have never taken a guided tour.

I don't think that it is a mistake for you to try it. However, to make the most of your time, you should have done some prepatory reading so that you are familiar with the battle (or at the very least, the D-Day landings). That way you will be able to put the things that you are seeing into context. You've indicated that you are fairly knowlegable about the history, so that seems a good start. Secondly, you or your companion should be comfortable in navigating the back roads of Normandy so that you don't lose too much time in getting lost. Use the Michelin local maps for the area. No. 303 should cover all you will be seeing.


"What are we leaving out?" Quite a bit, but with only two days, you have to choose. For exmple, Pegasus Bridge is very interesting, but too far out of your way. Other sites of considerable interest which you haven't mentioned include (from east to west) the Juno Beach Centre, the battery at Longues-sur-Mer and Point du Hoc.

You may find some older guides which recommend the Battle of Normandy Museum in Bayeux. Sadly, this museum, which used to be one of the best, is now a shadow of its former self, due to a dispute between the City of Bayeux and the founder. I wouldn't recommend a visit at this time.

In my opinion, the Mémorial de Caen is worth a visit, and preferably at the beginning of your tour. It does cover other things than the Battle of Normandy, but you can concentrate on the latter if your time is limited.

I think that in two days, you can cover the places that you have mentioned, with one day for the Mémorial, Arromanches and Omaha Beach including the American Cemetery, with the second for the German Cemetery at La Cambe, Utah Beach and Ste. Mère Eglise. They will be full days, but it is certainly doable if you don't spend more than an hour or two at the Mémorial. On the second day, before you start out, you can probably take in the Bayeux Tapestry if you are interested. By September, it shouldn't be crowded, particularly if you get there at opening time.

You mentioned that you would like to visit the American and German cemeteries, but I think you would also profit from a visit to one of the Commonwealth cemeteries as well. Unlike the others, there is not one or two large cemeteries, but 25 or so dotted all over Normandy. The most convenient for you to visit would be the Bayeux War Cemetery, on the southern part of the ring road, and just across from the Commonwealth memorial to those killed in Normandy with no known grave. One of the features of all Commonwealth War Graves Cemeteries is that most of the headstones contain an inscription chosen by the family of the dead soldier--these are often quite touching.

If you need a guidebook, "Major and Mrs. Holt's Guide to the Normandy Landing Beaches" is a classic. with good maps, photos and narratives.

A good website for touring the battlefields, is Paul Reid's guide:

http://battlefieldsww2.50megs.com/no...ttlefields.htm

Enjoy your visit.

Such good advice. Thanks to all of you. I'm working so hard doing my homework for this trip; I hope it pays off with a minimum of fumbling and indecision once we get there.

Forgot to mention we'll be there on a weekend. It would be nice to know in advance if something is closed on Sundays so it could be done on Sat. The Bayeux tapestries and Arromanches museum comes to mind. I'm sure I'll find out eventually, but I haven't had time yet to check. And thanks especially for the reminder on Points du Hoc, the battery at Longue sur mer, and the website, laverendrye.

And thanks to Fodor's for this electronic bulletin board.

Logan69

I'm glad to have been of assistance. For opening times and such, I have found this website to be very useful:

http://www.normandy-tourism.org/gb/index.asp

Just a few thoughts to add to the debate on whether or not to visit the Peace Museum in Caen. The Museum's mission is to tell the story of both world wars which are presented as a single conflict with a 20-year cease fire in the middle. The D-Day invasion is only part (albeit a big part) of the story told. We thought the museum was great; but, considering all the things on your agenda for two days, I just don't think you have time for it.

As to whether a self-guided tour is a mistake, I don't think so. But you're going to have to do a lot of research. I recommend the Michelin Green Guide for Normandy and Michelin Map No. 231 (Normandy). There's also a reprint of a 1947 Michelin map (No. 102, Battle of Normandy) which is just packed with information about the progress of the invasion.

Another helpful resource was a brochure we picked up at the Peace Museum that showed the routes of a few self-guided/driving tours. As you're driving, you follow the road signs for these itineraries which are based on themes ("The Assault," "The Breakout," "The Encirclement" etc.). You wouldn't be able to do all of the drives, but the signage is a good way to stay on the right road. The brochure was prepared by the four regional tourist departments (Calvados, La Manche, L'Orne, and Normandie). Google and see what might be available online. Search "Comite Departemental du Tourisme du ..." (fill in "Calvados" or "Normandie" etc.).

Good luck and have a great trip.

Just remember that alot of the spots to visit are almost as simple as name plates with nothing else to make it any more than a picture in a book would make.


I would certainly add Point du Hoc but I thought was already a given with Omaha Beach.It is just after the last beach exits.

I thought the Peace Museum was an essential part of the entire experience and I would also urge you to visit the British Cemetary which is slightly inland of the American Cemetary. If memory serves, should you stay in Bayeux - which I recommend - you will pass the British Cemetary on the way out to the American Cemetary. The American site is so stark and really beautiful but you will find yourself becoming quite emotional, I would think, when you view the British, Northern Irish, and Scots graves at the other cemetary. Have a great trip.

I think the Caen museum is a priority. The film that shows the before & after of each city is a stark reminder that the price paid for liberation was high in more than just military deaths. And to see those cities now shows how life goes on no matter what. If only there were such a museum in the Middle East.

JUst a clarification of fitznj's reference to "the" British cemetery. There are 26 Commonwealth War Graves Cemeteries in Normandy. Some are large, some are small. Most are largely, but not exclusively, British, and while two are designated as Canadian, they also have graves of other Commonwealth soldiers.

The Bayeux War cemetery, to which I think nitznj was referring, is mostly British but it also has Canadians, Australians, New Zealanders and a South Aftrican among its Comonwealth graves. It also containes the graves of a few French, Czech, Italian and Russian soldiers, as well as

Sorry, hit the wrong button.

...as well as nearly 500 German graves.

Bayeux was the site of a general hospital, so many buried there died of their wounds. Other of the CWGC cemeteries are close to where the action took place, so they are located throughout the Normandy battlefields.

By comparison, the two American and several German cemeteries are where graves were consolidated from throughout Normandy.

All the war cemeteries are very moving places.

We have been on a D Day trip ourselves. We took an organized van trip and then went to Arromanche ourselves the next morning. The organized trips do cover alot of sights in a minimum of time.

I don't feel that there is a better east-west or west to east. If you have not read any books then read Steven Ambrose's 'D-Day'.

Minimum Sights:
American Cemetery (Colleville)
a beach (either Omaha or Utah for the US)
a museum

Recommended
Arromanche (has both a museum and 360 degree theater). Arromanche will give you insight into the materials movement reqiured to support the invasion. The Germans rightly thought that any successful invasion would quickly have to capture a port to support the invasion. Arromanche and its american counterpart turned that idea on its head.

St Mere Eglaise, the first city liberated by the invasion (was liberated by Paratroopers) has a small museum as well.

Point du hoc.

I have been to the Caen Peace Museum both would like to go.

If you're a reader, I recommend the Ambrose book(s).

If you're not, watch <u>The Longest Day</u> for an overview of how the Allies went about accomplishing their mission. The &quot;All-Star&quot; cast is somewhat distracting, but the history is fairly sound.

An excellent summary of the strategy and tactics is the &quot;Battlefield&quot; series narrated by Tim Piggot-Smith. It outlines the commanders, armies, equipment, order of battle, and how the events played out. I can't find it on line, but you might get lucky.

I would agree with Robspierre on the Ambrose D-Day book and The Longest Day movie as very realistic representations. I would say that looking at the Channel from the American Cemetary will give you the German view of the invasion over the Easy Red section of Omaha and a good thought to have while you are there.

I would think the most important beach to see is Omaha (rather than Utah)as the landings on Utah were not the type of beach landings that we are familiar with. Most dramatic is the view at Omaha of the long stretch of beach and the perspective given when one views the beach exits at St.Laurent-sur-mer and Vierville where subsequent memorials have been erected.

Without reading all the replies we did this. A poster on the AOL boards gave an itinerary which we sort of followed, but mainly we got the Michelin Green Guide to Normandy and used it. We did start our day (from Bayeux) at St. Mere Eglise.
We had stopped at the Pegasus Bridge on the way TO Bayeux.
It was all plenty for us and you will see MANY small roadside &quot;museums&quot;. Pass on by, is my advice.
The museums/displays at the major sites are quite good. Arromanches is really fascinating. Oh, you have left out Pointe du Hoc.