Restaurants in Verona and Emilia-Romagna
 

Does anyone have any favorites they'd wish to share? No tourist traps, please!

In Verona, La Greppia.

In Bologna
Nuovi Notai and Da Cesarina

In Verona, I second Ristorante La Greppia. Also Bottega Del Vino for a fantastic wine selection. They're both just off Via Mazzini, the main shopping street.

For a very local-feeling place where no one speaks English, try Osteria del Duca, supposedly in Romeo's old house.

Thanks so much for all your suggestions, and we'll be sure to leave plenty of time for the return. I was able to get info on the bus to Sirmione, Bardolino and Garda. Now cross fingers for clear weather!