Restaurants in Madrid
 

I'll be staying 2 nights at the Hotel Madrid and two nights at the Carlos V hotel. Can you recommend any restaurants that are within walking distance to each of those hotels? Thanks.

* Taberna del Alabardero (Felipe V 6; Metro Opera; tel. 91 531 6612; reservations recommended for dinner inside) This is next to the Royal Theatre, just off Plazza de Oriente. We went there twice. Once for a tapas dinner outside (with a view of part of the façade of the Royal Palace; 6,000ptas for two) and once for full course dinner inside (about 9,500ptas for two). We didn't reserve but were lucky to get the next to last table for dinner without having to wait. Menu with a bias toward Basque cuisine. Very nice setting and good service. Hard on nonsmokers inside. <BR> <BR>*Café del Oriente (Plaza de Oriente 2; Metro Opera; tel. 91 541 3974) We had a tapas lunch outside on exiting the Royal Palace (5,000ptas) and didn't make it back for a planned dinner inside. Very nice setting and good service. <BR> <BR>*Botin (Cuchilleros 17; Metro Opera, Sol or Tirso de Molina; tel. 91 366 4217; reservations essential for dinner). This is just off the southwest corner of Plaza Mayor. We got there at 11pm and had no reservations. As the reception desk had just told us that every single table was reserved/occupied a couple just in front of us raised to leave :-) We had a suckling roasted baby pig and a filet mignon aux champignons and spent 8,500ptas. Very extensive menu fitting all tastes. Pictoresque, good service, a ball! Hard on non smokers!

*Julian de Tolosa (Cava Baja 32; Metro La Latina; tel. 91 365 8210; reservations essential; closed Sunday) We had been there the night before and didn't manage to find a table and reserved for the next day. We had the famous "chuletton madrileño" with a price tag of 10,000ptas. If you don't like medium rare stakes just forget it ... they don't ask you how you want your stake because they're sure they know better. If you ask for a well done stake they'll certainly think (and maybe shout out) "what the hell are you doing here?". Very nice setting, perfect service. Hard on non smokers. <BR> <BR>*La Camarilla (Cava Baja 21; Metro La Latina; tel. 91 354 0207; didn't ask if it closes) We tried this one (which wasn't in our list) when we didn't find a table at the Julian de Tolosa. Price tag of 10,000ptas for a good setting, perfect service and no smoke at all (only thre tables being served at the time, one a couple with a baby). Plate presentation with a French touch (big plates with the entrée artistically disposed in the center ... portions could be somewhat bigger :-( <BR> <BR>Except for the tapas dinner at the Alabardero and the dinner at the Botin we went out in two couples. Among other, I had listed Casa Paco, Paradis Madrid, Posada de la Villa and Casa Lucio which were closed in August. On Cava Baja I had listed the Viejo Madrid which was open but the ladies decided for the Camarilla to get a respite from cigarette smoke. <BR> <BR>It would be difficult to single one of the above out. Each has its own merits and I would recommend them all. I highly recommend a tour back and forth on Cava Baja up to Puerta Cerrada. There's one restaurant or bar after the other. Outside July/August/Sunday they should be all open. We checked the tapas bar El Soleá (on # 27) and it looked very interesting. On schedulled days outside August they have jazz jam sessions, not so touristy and expensive flamenco tablao, etc. <BR> <BR>Paulo

Roz, <BR>Paulo has given you a splendid list of very dependable restaurants (hi, Paulo!). Follow his advice, particularly about walking up and down the Cava Baja. Also great wine bars with fabulous gourmet, creative tapas there like "El Tempranillo" and "La Taberna de los Cien Vinos" around the corner at Nuncio #17, down the street and to the right of Puerta Cerrada. <BR> <BR>I'd like to add a few recent discoveries of my own: <BR> <BR>"Zerain" (Quevedo #3)-a new Basque cider house, beautifully done on a recently yuppified street in Old Madrid down from the Plaza Santa Ana with two floors of dining, basement is cozier. You can be brave and serve yourself "sidra" from the giant vats in the wall, or if you want to avoid the drippy mess, have the waitress bring you a pitcher. Very hearty Basque country fare; large portions. Packed at mid day with business types and politicians from nearby Parliament. <BR> <BR>Lively. <BR> <BR>When "Botin" is full, I take guests to "Casa Lucio" (Cava Baja #35) where few tourists venture in-you may spot royalty or celebs-it's the King's fav. as well as the Griffin/Banderas and Bruce Willis/Bravo duo's (Melanie G loves the rice pudding)-casually fashionable dress at night-filled with business types at noon-fabulously fresh fish, great cholesterol laden scrambled eggs with potatoes ("patatas revolconas")-garlic chicken-NOT for those allergic to smoke, however! And upstairs is Siberia. <BR> <BR>Another old stand by that's easy on the wallet: "El Schotis" (Cava Baja #11)-good red meats and roast lamb in a more simple atmosphere, below the "Posada de la Villa"-old timer waiters-pretty murals in upstairs d. room. <BR> <BR>A spot for carnivores near the Teatro Real: "El Buey" (Plaza de la Marina Espanola #1)-across from the Senate- noted for its fillet ("lomo de buey") which is served on a sizzling clay platter so that you can cook it to your liking, excellent house red Ribera del Duero wines-everyone orders the same thing, the "lomo de buey", a house salad of tomtoes and onion, fries and homemade lemon sorbet for dessert. But other desserts are great as well (cheesecake, crepes, apple tart, yum...) No space between tables! Reserve 2 days in advance for weekends, the morning of for weekdays. <BR> <BR>Also "Casa Marta", a small Mom and Pop with flair, recommended by NY Times. Caring service. Hard to find. From left side of Teatro Real facing the Opera metro, walk up Calle Vergara past Irish Pub. It's on the corner at Calle Santa Clara. <BR> <BR>You can also check the weekly "Guia de Ocio". Buy it at the airport or at any newstand (comes out on Thurs.) It lists "what's doing" and also gives restaurant addresses, approximate cost and hours (all in Spanish but easy to figure out). <BR> <BR>And have fun!

We found Botin's a highly over-rated restaurant. We were rushed so they could get another customer, very expensive and food not particularly good. We found Casa Paco as the best we ate at. So good went back following night! <BR>Steaks are great --- dont ask for medium or anything cooked more. <BR>You purchase by weight. The restaurant in very close to Botin's but can't remember name of street. Moderately expensive (expensive to some) but you get your money's worth. <BR>Richard

Try to make time at the end of your evening for one of the chocolaterias, particularly Chocolateria San Gines, near Plaza Mayor. Decadent nightcap - like drinking chocolate fondue.

Regarding the comment above about being rushed at Botin's. The standard dining hour is about 10 PM in Spain. We were warned that those tourists who arrive when a restaurant opens at 8 or 8:30 (some do, many don't open till later), will be rushed to make room for the full seating that comes later. We seldom went out before 10:00 and always had slow and gracious service -- clearly the table is yours for the rest of the evening. We had spotted a small packed restaurant called Cluny in Madrid near our hotel coming back late one night, so next night went there arriving about 10 when it opened. It was completely empty. They looked at the list and said they really couldn't take us, then someone called in to cancel, so they seated us. The next two people came in about 10:30. By 11:30 it was completely full. They clearly only allow for one seating.