Restaurant Reservations in Central Europe
 

We will be leaving in a week for Poland, Hungary, Vienna, and Czech Republic. I've researched restaurant recommendations on this site and others. Often times people have said you need a reservation. Would it be better, once we're over there, to phone a day before (wondering about the problem of us not speaking the language) or should I email them from home before I leave?

Hello jr:

The opinions you will receive on this question will vary from walk around and look at posted menus, then reserve, to the technique I use in cases where I am sure about a restaurant in advance. I have found that restaurants generally respond more favorably to a fax rather than e-mail. In Dresden, the owner of a fine but tiny Italian restaurant had my fax from 4 months prior in his hand as he seated us. I acknowledge that a fax requires a little more effort and some expense but it seems to work for me. Gradyghost

Thanks, gradyghost. Anyone else?

Hi; We have been to all three countries and the city you mentioned a few times. We have never found it necessary to book ahead of time. Perhaps the day before. If you are considering an upscale restaurant, then you might have to book in advance [weeks of longer]. Our method is to look for restaurants while we are sightseeing. Of course, your hotel will have recommendations. But booking ahead is OK if you feel more comfortable. View this web site for great downloads for some of the cities you will be visiting. www.inyourpocket.com/ Dick

Most of the restaurants that require reservations will have a web site that will allow you to book on-line. I have done that on several occasions.

Unless you're planning on going to a VERY special restaurant you should be able to get reservations on the spot. And I would assume whoever would take them would speak English. If they don;t speak English you probably don;t need reservations. Or, the concierge or front desk in your hotel can call for you if you're uncomfortable in making them yourself.

When we visited the Czech Republic, Slovakia and Hungary last May, we only made reservations in advance for the weekends in big cities (Prague and Budapest). Some of them filled up when we were there, so we were glad we did; others did not. It did give us piece of mind, knowing we didn't have to search for a place to eat, especially on our arrival day, when we arrived in Prague in the early evening on a Friday night.

We made all of those dinner reservations ourselves, in English. Overall, many restaurants in the Czech Republic and Hungary had websites, and all had English options, and many (all?) had menus in English on the websites. I found this to be much more the case than in France and Italy; I assume because fewer people, generally speakk Czech or Hungarian than speak French and Italian.

I was in Budapest, Vienna & Prague last October.

In Budapest, I made a reservation in person in my halting Hungarian at a restaurant whose website I'd visited and that had good reviews (They did speak English too). It was only a couple of blocks from my hotel (Budapest Hilton in the Castle District) so I was able to make it several hours in advance and return for dinner later.

In Vienna, I wanted to have dinner at a very special restaurant (Rote Bar Restaurant at the Sacher Hotel) before my opera performance so I made a reservation several months in advance via their website. They were waiting for me when I arrived; I simply mentioned that I had a reservation at x time, and they greeted me by name.

In Prague I had the hotel concierge make reservations in the morning for that evening, and, already, my first choice was full. Luckily, the second choice was available, and I was very happy with that.

Based on my experience, if it is a very popular or well-known restaurant, if it is very important to you to eat there (especially on a certain day or certain time), or if it is peak season, advance reservations would be helpful. How far in advance you make them depends on your comfort level. If website reservations are an option, I would do that; you could even print the screen and take it with you. Also, I don't hate to use the concierge because often they can get you in easier than you could yourself.

I usually made reservations on the same day. We never got shut out, but came close in Kraków.

FYI, here are a few of my recommendations if you are in these cities.

<B>Prague -</B> Ballavista - great food (mushroom risotto and grilled chicken in a pesto sauce were phenomenal); great views and, of course, Dark Urquell beer on tap.

For a terrific wine cellar, try The Noble Club, located at Tržiště 371. It offers several wines by the glass and has a nice selection of wines from around the world. Great ambiance.

The Orange Moon is a Thai restaurant located between Old Town and Josefov, and its menu of Thai, Burmese and Indian cuisine was spectacular (at very reasonable prices, too).

<B>Cesky Krumlov -</B> For lunch along the river - pick an outside table at U Dwau Marii for a Bohemian feast.

For dinner - Look for the Chinese restaurant on the main square. No, I am nor sending you to a Chinese restaurant. Look for the sign for Pivna KataKomby. Incredible dinner. I quote myself; "At the bottom of the staircase there in front of me was another world. There was a beautiful bar with tables in one room and then I entered another room, and another, and another, all in a surreal, cave-like setting (the bears would have loved it). In the back, there was a large wood-burning pit where the restaurant’s grilled specialties are cooked.

We shared an appetizer of crispy, fried bacon and onions that was delicious. It contained fried chunks of pork with white onions (al dente), seasoned with lots of black pepper. It was served with gherkins and salad.

Every dish was plated so nicely that Kim took pictures of each culinary delight (you’ll have to wait for the blog to see them) before we started eating. As spectacular as they looked, they were even more terrific to consume.

I had the grilled skewer of chicken, pork and beef with fresh peppers and salad.

Mary had the specialty of the house, which was called a “Krumburger.” It was a huge hamburger patty that lay on a bed of fresh cole slaw. She also had a side dish of a baked potato with herbed crème fraîche.

Tracy ordered a pork tenderloin served “English-style.’ It came with asparagus, artichokes and peppers.

Kim’s grilled lemon chicken on a bed of arugula, peppers, tomato relish and grilled garlic bread was good, but his side dish, “gratin au potatoes,” garnered the evening’s “Wow” award.

These potatoes were absolutely amazing, and we all know because we all tried them. We figured there had to be about 50 thin layers of potatoes, with a touch of garlic and Parmesan cheese. It had a golden, crunchy top."

<B>Finally in Kraków - </B> I recommend (again I quote my trip report) - "Guliwer, located at ul. Bracka 6, turned out to be one of the best restaurants of the trip. Mary started with a wild mushroom soup (Polish specialty) and went on to Provencale-style chicken liver with onions and red peppers along with roasted potatoes.

I had a scrumptious veal cutlet with herb garlic butter, fried apples paired with some delicious pan-fried potatoes. It received a “Wow” rating. This would be a night for “Wows.”

Tracy’s first “Wow” dish was a refreshing, cold cucumber and watermelon soup. Her duck filet with a pepper sauce and celery salad with raisins and nuts was great, too.

With dishes like these, we could not stop. On to dessert!

I had a terrific Crepe Suzette, which was fabulous, but Tracy’s second “Wow” of the night came in the form of vanilla and chocolate crepes filled with ice cream, an orange-chocolate sauce, whipped cream and lots of orange zest. We were told the orange-chocolate sauce is made in-house.

All this and a bottle of 2004 Chateau Pertignos Bordeaux made this dinner most memorable.

I highly, highly recommend Guliwer for dinner. Simply tremendous!"

Have a great trip.

((H))

By the way, that address for The Noble Club wine cellar is in Mala Strana section of town. The Bellavista sits atop Mala Strana area. It is a little bit of a hike from down below, but well worth the effort.

((H))

Thanks, everyone, for your suggestions. And, Maitaitom, I appreciate your specific suggestions. I'm getting hungry already! I emailed Guliwer 3 days ago and didn't hear back; but perhaps my computer is blocking them. I'll phone them or stop by when I get to Krakow.

Have a great trip. Someone pulled up my trip report this morning, and that reminded me that one year ago today I was in Kraków. By the way, the women in Kraków might be the most beautiful women I have seen on the planet. Tracy is still slapping me.

((H))

I've been to Krakow, Prague, Budapest and Gdansk and have made approximately zero reservations at any restaurant in any of the four cities. And we really haven't had any bad meals (except one in Prague in a restaurant on the Castle Road that just didn't sit right).

In Krakow, however, you should go to the Kazimierz district for dinner one night and in Prague you should eat outside on Kampa Island.

In Budapest, there are (or were) a bunch of lively places in Lizst Ter.

And I thought the women in Gdansk were better-looking than the ones in Krakow, but maybe that's because there were so few Russian and German tourists in Gdansk. Do with that what you will . . .