Restaurant in La Roque Gageac ?
 

We are staying At the Belle Etoile on a Monday night in May and they just emailed me that the kitchen is closed that night. Can anyone recommend another restaurant in the town?? I thought of La Plume d’Oie. Does anyone know if that might be open and how expensive it is? Are there any others that are good? Thanks.

How dissapointing for you! Our only meal in La Roque Gageac was there...did you ask the hotel for a recommendation?

Will they be open for lunch that day or the next? I would make a point of eating there. We had lunch there last summer and had a picnic for dinner. The food there was some of the best on our entire trip.

The following is from my 20+ page itinerary on the Dordogne - it's an excerpt from my wife's diary. E-mail me at [email protected] if you want a copy.

La Plume d’Oie in Roque Gageac 05 53 29 57 05

This restaurant is right on the road bordering the Dordogne. We both started with the house aperitif (couldn’t quite put our finger on the contents, but it may have had some peach liqueur). I had the menu a 195 FF, starting with what was called a “bisque”, but actually was 2 lobster ravioli (perfect pasta with melt in your mouth stuffing), with a fabulous lobster sauce. Then I had the “declinaition” of fish. Although I had my dictionary, I could not find this word defined in a food context (the related verb was “to reject”), but decided for “go for it” anyway & it was a good decision. It was 3 different fish fillets beautifully sautéed & sauced. No cheese course for me, but the desert was incredible chocolate mania !!! – a small cup of coffee with ice cream & chocolate drops which were partially melted, with a round of what was basically chocolate truffle filling topped with hard chocolate and (yes there was more !) a ball of chocolate sorbet. I figured that with the coffee & chocolate, the caffeine would keep me going for a week. Stu had the menu a 295FF starting with the foie gras in aspic – but unfortunately, we forgot to write down his remaining courses.

Sept ’03
We were the first people there; we remembered the hostess/co-owner from our prior visit: quite a character. Stu debated between the 24 and 35E menus, ultimately deciding on the 24E menu with langoustines & scallops as an a la carte addition. We had two wonderful Amuse Bouche courses: pastry cups filled with buttery sauteed cepes and a thin, fried crispy “tortilla” square topped with fromage blanc and then topped with a walnut. THEN, we had a small cup of cold potato vichyssoise soup garnished with chopped chives! Stu then had 3 langoustines and 3 scallops in a buttery saffron sauce, while I had a langoustine ravioli with a buttery crustacean sauce – so rich a sauce spoon was provided. We both had the cannette next (it was served on this menu for two only). This included the breast in a red wine reduction and a confit of the leg in a pilaf with vegetables. There was also a tian/quenelle made with a grain (described as ble, wheat on the menu). For dessert, Stu had an assortment of three chocolate decadences. I had a creation with meringue wafers alternating with layers of peach fondant, all with a peach coulis.


La Treille in Vitrac 05 53 28 33 19

This is a small, low key family owned hotel/restaurant in a nice setting. We ate in a glass-enclosed dining room that could be opened to the outdoors in warmer weather. I had the menu a 138FF. We both had an amuse bouche of smoked magret de canard with melon. I started with the marinated salmon (diced with olive oil, onions, cucumber, & tomato), followed by fillets de rougets (red mullet fish) served with tapenade. This dish was simply awesome !! I then had another amuse bouche. This was, I believe, intended to somewhat equalize the number of courses between Stu & me (the server said I would be waiting between courses because of Stu’s selection & all I could say was “c’est normale”). I choose what seemed to be the lightest dessert: 2 balls of sorbet (I asked for only one – cassis), & even that was way beyond simple – it was served with a splash of some sort of liqueur & topped with a light cookie/gallette. Stu had the menu a 235FF. He too had a special amuse bouche of seared foie gras, followed with a crustacean soup – creamy with chunks of seafood plus several langoustines at the bottom of the bowl. Then Stu had a “tart” with pastry, caramelized turnips and seared foie gras. Then !! Stu had 3 pieces of white fish sautéed and served on a bed of cepes, fava beans, & accompanied by a “signature” garnish of small tubes of cooked pasta, stuffed with cheese & then sautéed. This was followed by a “breather” course of sorbet mirabelle – that is, plum sorbet with prune liqueur. Then came a pastry packet of pigeon breasts (squab) with candied nuts and a perigord sauce. The legs of the squab were roasted & served outside the packet. With a paltry !! number of courses, the dessert was preceded by a “small dessert” – a crème brulee served warm. The “real” dessert was a rich chocolate gateau served with coffee ice cream. Incredibly, Stu’s meal (excluding the amuse bouche for the table) was 8 courses !!! Even more remarkabely was the fact that this meal for the two of us, with 2 aperitifs, 2 half-bottles of wine, and a bottle of mineral water was a total of 583FF including service/tip and taxes. With the current exchange, this was $80. We both agreed that this may be one of the best meals we have had in France & from a “value” point of view, it may be the best. We talked about how wonderful it was all the way back to the Gite.

We ate at La Treille twice.

Sept ’03
Stu had the menu a 34E, and I had the menu a 24E. Stu also added to his menu, a pigeon dish (a la carte) which was one he remembered from our prior trip. We started with an amuse bouche for the table: pastries with tomato & also pastry wrapped boudin sausages. Stu’s next course was roasted garlic soup, and when it arrived I was served a second amuse bouche of crème de langoustines soup, so that I would have something to nibble on while Stu had his added courses. Stu then proceeded with foie gras pot au feu with carrots & parsnips, followed by a fish course of sandre atop a red wine reduction sauce & served with carrots & zucchini cut into an elliptical shape. Next came his piece de resistance: rare pigeon breast in a philo pastry packet. Also inside the packet was a huge slice of foie gras. This not only added to the flavor, also the foie gras oil melted into the pigeon breasts. The legs and thighs were deep fried & served alongside the pastry packet. The packet was served on top of a reduced game sauce & summer truffles. Also on the plate was the restaurant’s signature pasta tubes & cheese, plus carrots & zucchini. For his cheese course, Stu had a cabacou round served on top of toast with honey drizzled over the top. For dessert, he had a “soft” (melting) chocolate cake with chocolate sorbet. I started with a salad aux senteurs du Perigord – not your typical green salad, but rathar a small serving of greens accompanied by typical flavors of the area: gesiers, smoked magret, candied walnuts, & terrine of foie gras. This was followed by rouget fillets – some topped with tapenade & some garnished with diced tomato, onoin, & red pepper. I had walnut ice cream drizzled with walnut liqeur for dessert. When the bill came, Stu expected to see the full price for the a la cart order of pigeon, but saw only a 7.50E “supplement”. When we questioned this, our server said the chef had adjusted the size of Stu’s fish course, resulting only in the supplement, rather than the full a la cart price.

I did ask the hotel for other recommendations.They haven't emailed back. The restaurant at La Treille in Vitrac also seems to be closed on Mondays. I haven't found a website for La Plume d'Oie.

Hi CP,

I have in my notes:

La Plume d’Oie 05 53 29 57 05 make reservations La Roque Closed Monday

((I))

We stayed in La Roque-Gageac for two weeks last June, and enjoyed several meals at the Belle Etoile. It's too bad it will be closed the night you are there.

La Plume d'Oie was something of a mystery. I don't think we ever saw any guests there, although it sometimes appeared to be open. Several of our group phoned one afternoon for a reservation and were told that it would be "quite impossible" with no further reason given. So we never had a chance to try it out.

There are several other restaurants in town (including Gardette, just beside the Belle Etoile), which are not bad, but certainly not up to the standard of the Belle Etoile.

If you want to try something nearby, l'Esplanade in Domme is very good, but it might also be closed on Mondays.

If you don't mind a 20 minute drive, Sarlat will probably have a few good restaurants open on Monday nights.

>>La Plume d'Oie was something of a mystery. I don't think we ever saw any guests there, although it sometimes appeared to be open. Several of our group phoned one afternoon for a reservation and were told that it would be "quite impossible" with no further reason given. So we never had a chance to try it out.<<<

We've had this discussion before.

You must realize that dining in France is different than dining in the US. Plume d'Oie is a "mom & pop" place, and they sometimes might not be able to handle a lot of guests. That may be an explanation for why they don't fully book the restaurant. Also, their food purchases for the day might not accommodate a full house.

Belle Etoile is a hotel, so they at least need to handle the guests in their hotel.

The "hostess" at Plume d'Oie is the wife of the chef - and she is a little "cold" at times. We got into a lenghtly discussion with her on one of our visits there, and she is quite opinionated, but very nice also. She is very proud of the food that her husband prepares, and if someone shows little interest in the food, she shows little interest in them - this was one of the subjects we discussed with her (longer story - I won't go into it).

We've vacationed near Roque Gageac for over 4 weeks within the last 8 years. I'm a big foodie. Plume d'Oie is one of my "Top 4" - Belle Etoile is not. We've dined at Plume d'Oie twice, and Belle Etoile 3 times. We've also dined at l'Esplanade 3 times, 5 chateaux 2 times, Jardin d'Epicure 3 times (our favoirte), la Treile 3 times (one of our top 4), and several others once.

If you have the Michelin Green guide to the Dordogne, you will see that Plume d'Oie is recommended in it. It is closed on Monday, except "in season" (June - Sept. I presume). It is also a no smoking restaurant, and they even told us that last time we reserved.

Reserve there, and show your appreciation for the creativity of the Chef with a few "Ohhhs & Ahhhs", and you will have a memorable meal.

Stu Dudley

It sounds like, from the michelin guide, that the La Plume d'Oie may also be closed on Mondays. I see that there are also a few other restaurants, Gardette, Perigord, Les Pres Gailardou which are listed in Michelin. Has anyone tried any of these? and if so what did you think. The Belle Etoile said they would find somewhere for us to eat...but I would like a good meal. Thanks

Jardin d'Epicure on the Roque Gageac side of St Cyprien is our favorite restaurant in the Dordogne. It is open on Monday. Worlds better than Belle Etoile, IMHO.


Jardin d’Epicure - outside of St Cyprien, on the north side of D703 before the turnoff to St Cyprien & Castels. 05 53 30 40 95

http://www.jre.net/Restaurant.aspx?R...antID=03302207

From my wife's diary:

Since the evening was somewhat warm, we opted to sit on the terrace for dinner at Jardin d’Epicure outside of St Cyprien. The dinner started with 3 pastry type amuse bouches, & one (probably gesiers) en brochette. This was followed by small cup of chilled cantaloupe puree. I had the menu a 170FF, starting with smoked salmon in a chive crème fraiche sauce, followed by daurade with tomato basil fondant. I had a cheese course (and, as always the case one helping of house made fromage fraiche). All followed by a chocolate mousse cake. Stu had the menu a 295FF (toujours le gourmand!). He started with a salad with vegetables and pan seared foie gras, with a sour type dressing, then bar (fish) with awesome (I tasted) eggplant caviar, then “lasagna” of riz de veau (sweetbreads) which was only a lasagna in that 2 feather light sheets of pasta were placed above & below the sauced entrée. His cheese course was truffled goat cheese with walnut oil and dessert was a chocolate gateau with an almost liquid center served with strawberry compote & candied orange rind. The owner/chef/waiter came out several times to chat & genuinely seemed to enjoy our praise (which was well earned). He said he had been up since 4AM, personally buying the restaurant food and, since his wife was home with their new month-old baby, he was doing many jobs at the restaurant. He was looking forward to tomorrow when the restaurant would be closed so he could get some sleep.

We ate here a second time:

This time we ate inside and, as before, had a great dinner. Daddy & I each had the menu a 170FF. We both started with foie gras mi-cuit with rhubarb compote. I then had daurade (as did Daddy) with tomato coulis followed by a cheese course & sumptuous chocolate dessert. Stu had the menu a 260FF, starting with escargots with onion, fava beans, & rosemary cream. He then had sole with cepes, followed by lamb medallions with olives & basil. The cheese course was a cabecou cheese with truffle slices, and dessert was an orange crème brulee.

Sept ’03
Stu had the Menu a 62E (big splurge) & I had the menu a 38E. The restaurant was just as we remembered it – the owners (now) 3 year old daughter was socializing with the dining room. We remembered in 2000 how exhausted the chef was – trying to perform all roles while his (new mother) wife was home with their newborn. We both started with an amuse bouche tomato sorbet with basil & a very dense, creamy froth on the top. We also had a small plate of savories including gesiers, smoked salmon, halved cherry tomatoes with a small mozerella ball on top served with a tooth pick. Stu’s first course was a “declinization” of 3 foie gras: mi cuit, poele, and a crème brulee style served with a fig quenelle & a small green salad. This was followed by a riz de veau ravioli with a creamy morrell sauce. Then Stu had bar (a fish) with polenta & a creamy veal stock sauce with black truffles. After the fish course, he had pigeon with preserved garlic & a basil spice sauce. Stu’s cheese course was slices of chevre with summer truffles with oil & fleur de sel, accompanied by toasts. His dessert was a grand Marnier soufflé (it rose about 4” above its ramekin) served with a timbale-sized glass of grand Marnier which he drizzled over it. I started with foie gras poele accompanied by a small pear tatin & served with an apple juice reduction. I then had the rouget with tomato & basil pesto. I had the selections from the cheese chariot, followed by a “minestrone” of red fruits. We remembered that on our previous trip, this was perhaps our favorite restaurant. If anything, it is better now.

Stu Dudley

Thanks Stu, the Jardin d’Epicure does sound good. Michelin says the menus are 29/62.

We enjoyed a two week France vacation in September/October 2006. We're foodies so we made it a point to seek out good restaurants. I believe we dined at 6 Michelin starred restaurants on this trip.

Our favorite restaurant was La Plume d’Oie in La Roque Gageac. We especially recommend the shellfish Ravioli first course and the duck breast main course along with the chocolate dessert. This was easily the best restaurant on this trip.

Our second favorite restaurant was Le Vieux Logis, a Relais and Chateaux property in Tremolat, France. The food was very good but the menu was a bit too 'trendy' for our taste. This restaurant has a Michelin star.

Third best restaurant on this trip was Les Ormes in Paris. This is a one star Michelin place. The veal pot roast is outstanding. Very enjoyable meal.

Biggest disappointment of the trip was a two star Michelin restaurant in Rouen named Restaurant Gill (http://www.relaischateaux.com/gill). They had a fish mousse course that was not fit to eat so we sent it back. I thought it unbelievable that we were sending back a dish at a pricey Michelin two star restaurant.

Also disappointing was the Paris Bistro L'Ami Louis. This small restaurant is almost legendary. It is said to be President Clinton's favorite restaurant whenever he's in Paris. The food here was just OK and not great. The prices were over the top. It was a huge disappointment.

It's your thread so won't take up too much space.

L’Esplanade in Domme

Jardin d’Epicure near St Cyprien

La Plume d’Oie in Roque Gageac

Pres Gaillardou near Roque Gageac *

Belle Etoile, in Roque Gageac

Le Presidial in Sarlat

Le Relais des Cinque Chateau, in Vezac

La Metarie at/about les Eyzies de Tayac

Le Moulin de l’Abbaye in Brantome

Le Moulin de Roc.

The restaurants follow the shops with their closings on Monday. Most are closed...but not all.You just have to check them individually.

I was discouraged from Plume d'Oie when there last month, being told that it was up and down. It might be excellent and might be bad!

Vieux Logis is open on Monday. It is an excellent spot.

Michelin Red Guide will tell you the days they are closed.