Request for comments: Paris, Antwerp, Versailles
 

Hello!

I wanted to get some feedback on our current plan to Paris, with a overnight to Antwerp and a day trip to Versailles.
Here's what I have so far:

3/30: Fly to Paris from SFO
3/31: Arrive Paris. Setup in apartment and see local neighbourhood and The Centre Pompidou (which is a walking distance from our apartment)
4/1: Eiffel tower, Champs Elysee. See local area. Evening: Take pictures of Eiffel tower, Walk along the Seine
4/2: Louvre, walk along the Seine
4/3: Museums: Musee D'orsey, Evening: Show at Moulin Rouge
4/4: - Notre Dame and Arc de Triomphe: Go to top
4/5: Leave for Antwerp
4/6: Return from Antwerp
4/7: Rest in Paris: Maybe local neighbourhood, lounge at home a bit, sit in a cafe.
4/8: Change hotels (leave bags at hotel) and Day trip to Versailles

Some notes:
- We are a family of three. My wife, my daughter (8) and myself.
- We live in SF so there's chances of jetlag, especially for my daughter.
- I have an apartment booked for our entire stay in the The Marais district of Paris.
- I will be working in Paris the week after (4/9 to 4/13) and my wife and daughter are in Paris until 4/11 as well. So they can see some more of the city later and I may have some time to see - Montmarte / Sacre C'ouer on 4/13.
- We like history, culture, arts and in general taking in the feel of the place.
- This is our first visit to Paris and my wife/daughters first visit to Europe.

Questions:
- Do you think I've packed too much in this time?
- Is the trip to Antwerp worth it? We have friends there and hence thought it might be worth the visit to see them.
- Are there must see attractions I completely missed out?
- Are there other recommendations out-of-the-way things to do in Paris y'all recommend?
- We're vegetarians: Any recommendations you have?

Thanks so much!

Hi rahulm, I think your plan is reasonable. For the last half a dozen years I flew from SFO to CDG several times a year and I can tell you that your concern about jet lag is not unfounded! The older I got the harder it got. So my advice is leave your plans loose for that first day. You probably arrive at 10:30 am. Getting settled, buying some groceries, and checking out the neighborhood is a good idea. You are staying in a great area. There are lots of restaurants, cafes, shops and open markets. Be sure to visit the Marche Enfant Rouge. And you have Place de Voges, one of Paris's oldest public spaces.

I think it's great to have a loose schedule and smart to be very flexible with it. I think a trip to Antwerp is a fun idea, particularly since you have a friend there. I traveled there for a day to visit a friend as well and it was a fun day. Plus you see the countryside while you're on the train.

I can't make any restaurant recommendations because I'm not a vegetarian, but I'll be interested to hear what you find out because I have an 18 year old veg granddaughter who will be here in June visiting me.

Some suggestions before you arrive: Download the app "Citymapper". It's essential for figuring out options from getting anywhere in Paris. I also recommend downloading a taxi app; either Uber, Chauffeur Privee, or Taxi7. If you get stuck somewhere, it will be a lifesaver. I'm sure your apartment will have wifi, most cafes also have free wifi (pronounced wee-fee, ask for the password). Put your phone on airplane mode and you can use the internet (and phone) free.

Investigate some of the good Paris walking tours, particularly for your wife and daughter while you're working. Hopefully some others will pipe in here with some suggestions. There are even some free walking tours. Be prepared for rain and cold. Although the temperatures for next week are similar to SF, it's somehow much colder here!

How about a cooking class for your wife and daughter? Cookin With Class has both classes just for kids and for parents and kids.

Have fun in Paris!

If you have friends in Antwerp that you want to see, of course it's worth it; it's an easy train ride on Thalys (have you booked tickets? If not do so now!).
I'm sure your friends there will show you around. The Rubens House, Cathedral, Hendrik Conscienceplein with the Carolus Borromeus church; easy enough to wander around and see in a day.

Yes book Thalys tickets ASAP for deep discountged fares over waiting until there - huge savings often. www.thalys.com - www.seat61.com has loads of great advice on booking your own tickets online - general train info like first v 2nd cl, etc also BETS-European Rail Experts and www.ricksteves.com.

Hi rahulm,

I think you may want to take a look at a map of Paris and plot out where things are. The way you've grouped items doesn't make the best use of geography or time.

For instance, the Arc de Triomphe is at the end (or the beginning...) of the Champs Elysee, so it would make sense to see them on the same day. In another instance, the Louvre is a nice, relaxing walk down the river from Notre Dame, so it would make sense to do them on the same day.

Have fun as you plan!

s

Day trip to Versailles a snap - just about 30 minutes via RER C right to near palace entrances. Many folks book time ahead to avoid long wait in line.

Thank you so much, everyone. I have a slightly updated itinerary to adjust for the mismatched places. Thank you for pointing that out.

Any thoughts on visiting Monet's garden in Giverny? How is it? Is it worth the 45 min trip? My daughter really wants to see it. She's into art and biographies these days (reading Value tales to her - in case anyone remembers these books from the 70s and 80s). Any other suggestions for biographical museums would be very welcome.

Lastly, any ethnic or vegetarian things we should try (apart from me having promised my daughter 1 chocolate crepe a day :)).

Thank you!

Giverny and Monet's garden are spectacular. It can be very busy in July but I think if your daughter wants to see it, it would be well worth the trip. I've gone on the train and taken the bus from the station in Vernon to Giverny and twice I've taken a small group tour. I thought the small group tour was better for me because it saved a lot of traveling time. A driver will pick you up at your hotel and drop you off at the special entrance to the garden (no line!) then pick up up a few hours later and take you back to your hotel. It was something like 1 - 5. Well worth the money, in my opinion. You were on your own in Giverny to wander around as you choose.

Belinda, do you recall the name of the tour you took to Giverny? for our trip with the granddaughters we'd written Giverny off as too crowded and logistically difficult, but the tour you describe sounds quite doable. Thanks for any info you can provide.

Julie, we booked it through Viator. I think it may have been this one: https://www.viator.com/tours/Paris/S...s/d479-7245P11

Here is the info on the voucher they sent. We printed this for our ticket. They picked us up at my apartment. We did this one in July (afternoon option).

Thanks so much for your very quick and complete reply. Appreciate it. I think something like this is probably the only reasonable way to try to see the gardens during peak season. Ah, for the good old days when the crowds were not so heavy!

Will absolutely share. Starting to make a list of places and will share our feedback.

If you're in Antwerp, restaurants will probably be serving white asparagus, which are seasonal and only available in spring.
I don't know if you eat eggs, if you do you could go for Asperges a la Flamande (with chopped boiled eggs, butter and parsley). Check that they're not serving that with ham.
Belgian restaurants are starting to get better at this, but in traditional restaurants it's not so easy to find good vegetarian food. There are cheese croquettes as a starter, you can ask for these as a main course, with french fries or a salad.

I took public transportation to Giverny. It is spectacular if you like Monet or gardens. I happened to love it. It was very easy to get there via public transportation. Next time, I would leave earlier (slept in) to have more time there. I say that because If you really like Monet, the tour might not give you enough time there. There is a little road that I would have liked to explore. In any case, it is a must-do trip imho.

I also did Versailles by public transportation. The gardens are wonderful.

Giverny by public transit - trains from Gare Saint-Lazare to Vernon then minimus or taxi or a nice about 3 mile walk on footpath along Seine to Giverny itself. Vernon is a bustling enough regional town but not much reason to linger - though there is a nice outdoor market some days.

I did a bike tour to Giverny that was amazing.. and much preferable to a bus trip.. got same skip the line options.. but a lot more fun and awesome scenery to enjoy.. We met at the train station in Paris and board the train together.. then once we arrive in Vernon we pick up our bikes.. then a short ride to town market where everyone picks up their lunch items.. then a ten minute ride through town ( its not hectic like paris of course) to a lovely spot along the river for a picnic lunch.. After lunch the rest of the ride is easy.. along an old decomissioned rail line that runs along the river .. just for bikes and pedestrains..
Arrive at gardens and by pass line. Inside tour gardens on your own .. meet later with group for bike ride back..

I dont like Monet and I loved the tour lol

You do not have to be fit to enjoy this tour.. just capable of biking.. only one hill that I recall and it wasnt steep.. the rest is flat. Bikes are big easy glider types.. three speeds with big fat tires and comfy seats..

Fat Tire Bike Tours

I think your daughter would love a day out like that.. instead of another bus tour.

Warning re Versailles. .

I have been over a dozen times and taken both my kids there on seperate visits.. my daughter was the youngest at 11.
It was nasty and overwhelming for her in the palace itself.. people literally bumping and pushing her along. .she couldnt seem much in many places except peoples backs and elbows..It is hot as hell as there is no ac.. and the rooms are packed. I would seriously think twice before taking her through the main palace. HOWEVER.. if you reserve the Kings Apartment tour in advance it would give her a much much nicer experience.. you meet at a certain time and at a certain entrance( so skipping the long lines.. ) and tour in a small group through areas of the chateau that are off limits to the heaving masses.. after the tour you can elect to join the main part, but I would not with such a young child. The best part of Versailles for most kids is Marie Antionettes Hamlet.. be sure to make it out there.. its a very long walk or take the little shuttel tram there..

Can rent bikes at Versailles to to putz around the vast park. Or canoes/kayaks to do a float in the park's long rectangular waterway.

And town of Versailles is neat too - in many ways a typical albeit upscale regional town.

Hey Everyone: Thank you so much for all the comments and suggestions, especially around Versailles and Monet's garden. I have a feeling we'll end up just taking public transit instead of a tour just to give ourselves the leeway of planning the day to our liking that way. Given that its going to be rainy next week I am quite concerned if we'll enjoy the gardens, if at all we can even walk through them, that is :(

My wife and I have been talking a lot and finally decided that we're going to drop the Antwerp plan and just stay in Paris.

Here's a revised itinerary that I have. Would love thoughts/feedback:

3/30: Fly to Paris from SFO

3/31: Arrive Paris. Setup in apartment and see local neighbourhood.

4/1:
- Centre Pompidou
- Musee Picasso (both are free on this day and in walking distance of the apartment)

4/2:
AM: Eiffel Tower (go to top)
Afternoon: Pick 1 or 2 activities from this list for the afternoon: https://www.france-hotel-guide.com/e...-eiffel-tower/
- Evening: Take pictures of Eiffel tower in the sunset

4/3:
- Louvre
- Notre Dame cathedral
- Show at Moulin rouge in the evening

4/4:
- Arc de Triomphe: Go to top
- Claude Monets garden

4/5
- Museum of magic
- Relax rest of day (maybe an activity)

4/6: Versailles

4/7:
- Musee D'orsey
- Mariage Frères teas - historical tea shop (suggested to us by a friend)

4/8:
- Sacre Couer / Change hotels

We thought of doing a day trip to Lyon and then scrapped that as well. Next week is super rainy everywhere in France. We're still torn between adding 2 days in Lyon or just staying in Paris. Your expert thoughts will be invaluable on this new itinerary and on whether we should do a 2 day Lyon jaunt.

Thanks!

A day trip of some kind out of Paris would be nice - just to see a bit of a more typical France - say to Chartres for the day to see the fabulous mother of all Gothic cathedrals and savor a nice regional town. Frequent trains. Or to Loire Valley by train for a day with mini-bus tours from Tours' train station - see some of the most famous chaeaux. For lots on trains check www.oui.sncf - www.set61.com; BETS-European Rail Experts and www.ricksteves.com. Or to Reims for Champagne House tours - kid would love the caves you go thru - great cathedral and again thriving regional town. Lyon? Would be nice forf two days but there are many other places I may go - like Normandy's D-day beach area aroundn Bayeux - could be done as a day trip too.

With the length of your trip and all the things you want to do, I would skip Lyon. Another museum to consider in Paris is the Arts and Metier. I used to live right across from Centre Pompidou, and depending on where your apartment is exactly, it should be an easy walk:

Visitor information | Musée des arts et métiers

It really is pretty magical and I think would be a good fit for most eight year old kids I know.

In terms of vegetarian choices one of the best restaurants we ate in last year was called Desi Road. It is Indian but more what I would call Indian fusion-more modern and less traditional. It is on Rue Dauphine in the 6th near the river, but they also have a sister restaurant called MG Road. It will be closer to your apartment probably since it is in the 3rd. I haven't tried it yet but it is top of my list for June:

www.mgroadrestaurant.com
http://www.desiroadrestaurant.comhtt...restaurant.com

In addition to being yummy the plates are beautiful-up to SF standards IMO