Report: Barcelona New Years Trip
Feb 4th, 2009, 05:33 AM
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<b>The B list: also pretty darn good</b>
<b>Suquet de la Almiral</b>
On previous trips we’ve always been attracted to the Port Vell area with its lovely harbor next to Barceloneta and we’ve debated which of the open air restaurants just in front of the Catalan History museum even though we knew they’d afford better ambiance than food. This time I came prepared with recommendations in the area. I’d to continue further along the along the harbor an select between the restaurant Barceloneta and Maribel’s recommended Suquet de la Almiral. Since I’d seen pictures of the former and liked others owned by the same group, I’d more or less settled on it in my own mind, when we chanced upon the latter as we were starting to feel a bit chilled and so decided to pop into the inviting little place. So glad we did.
It was just what the doctor ordered. Son was emerging from his bout of Le Grippe and looking for comfort food. The charming waitress took him in hand, brought him some hot tea and made us all feel like we’d soon be getting chicken soup for our travel-worn souls—and bodies. It turned out to be fish soup, of course, not chicken, but it sure did the trick. We started with steamed clams, mussels and whelks. I had the eponymous (there , I’ve finally used that word in a sentence) suquet (a fish soup with potatoes in it, DH continued to chomp on yet more seafood and sick son had a calming rice dish.
Seated near us on this weekend day was an extended family of 12 celebrating some occasion, making the friendly little place seem even more cheerful. It reminded me of a New England/Nantucket resort kind of place with its striped and plaid denim –covered tablecloths and chair cushions. It sure made a rather bleak day cheery for us. It is my new restaurant of choice in the Port Vell area.
<b>Bossborn</b>
We ate twice at this place. It was very convenient to our apartment and our first experience was sufficiently good as to invite a second. For one thing, it was where we were introduced to that great potato/egg/truffle oil dish we enjoyed so much.
I loved the ambiance at this place. It’s a bar with tables for eating . It’s old and the tradition has been preserved while still adding trendy touches that the design-crazed Barcelonans (is that what they’re called?) just can’t get enough of. Even the single red gerbera daisy in the white vase on the table couldn’t just be sitting there by itself. It had to be accompanied by an artsy sprig of just the right greenery to look more interesting.
Service was bar service—serviceable. The waiter did everything he was supposed to because it was his job and he did it well, but there was none of the stupid stuff we tend to have in US restaurants like, “Hi, I’m Harry and I’ll be your waiter today.”
Bossborn has excellent tapas. Good tomato bread, red and white anchovies, steak with mustard on one trip there and cockles, pork pieces, Russian salad—with a hint of orange in the mayo, excellent fried artichokes, and tortilla omelet on the next.
<b>Mussol</b>
I thought this was yet another place that we’d more of less found on our own—and we did, actually—but in looking back over Maribel’s Guide, I see she lists it. We chanced on it because Tapac2 was closed on the first day we tried to eat there and we were all getting tired, hungry and cranky and I decided I’d best give up on a hunt for someplace perfect that I’d read about and just duck into the closest available place that looked like they’d serve something decent. It actually turned out to be a bit more than that.
It had the look of a chain, and it is. Décor is sort of cutesy rustic with multiple levels of seating. There is an open kitchen with grill and we found it amusing that in a Spanish tapas restaurant more than half of the chefs were Asian. What we liked about the food was that it included plenty of green vegetables and we really loved the grilled asparagus. Although the artichokes (which I now see Maribel warns against in her guide) were a bit over grilled, we enjoyed those parts that escaped charring and liked the addition of rosemary. Other than the veggies, though, the food was not really exceptional and as I write this I’m wondering why this is in the B rather than C list. I do note that it’s rated B- while Suquet de la Almiral is rated B+, so there’s range within these ratings.
Veal with cheese, boiled potato with butter—nice in its simplicity, tomato bread, a plate of catalan cold sausages, and hot sausage with beans. Carpaccio of pineapple with lemon crème sounded good but unfortunately wasn’t. Overall the place was there and it satisfied us when we needed it. I’d go again under the same circumstances.
<b>Set Portes</b>
This was where we ate our New Year’s Eve dinner. I selected it assuming it would have a nice party vibe and that the food would be serviceable. It lived up to my expectations and maybe even exceeded them.
The rooms are really beautiful. Overhead hang wide circular lampshades with lights that add a peachy glow to the room and get reflected in mirrors that line the walls. It being a highly traditional place in the port area, there’s also lots of wonderful, pretty old Spanish tiling. It was a perfect NYE venue. And we splurged because it was a festive holiday.
We started with a seafood platter with extra oysters, accompanied by tomato bread with ham slices. DH continued to eat from the seafood, while son had fish and I had a nicely done leg of kid. Goat is my favorite meat and I try to eat a lot of it in BCN. The restaurants we selected this time didn’t often have it on the menu so I was delighted to have it at Set Portes. Theirs was very tender and tasty.
This is another place I’d go again, if in the neighborhood and hunger overtook me at an opportune moment. But with all the wonderful places to pick from I’d not write it into the reservation schedule for another trip—unless I was traveling with friends who I knew would really relish a good, traditional meal in a beautiful traditional setting that they would read about in travel articles ever after and relish looking back and saying, “ah yes, remember the wonderful dinner we had there.”
<b>Irati</b>
We ate in the restaurant part of this place which is primarily a Basque tapas/pinxtos bar. The food was good, but I kept having the feeling that we’d done the wrong thing and that we should have gone instead for the fantastic bar scene with the bits of bread covered in the most beautiful looking stuff being passed from plate to mouth that I’ve ever seen.
This is a tough one for me because I don’t think our party would have been happy had we done the bar thing. I am clumsy, have knee problems and would probably never have lasted through a stand up meal trying to balance a glass of txakoli while holding on to my purse and eating a pintxo. DH is crowd averse. Nonetheless we kept feeling like we were missing the fun. It didn’t help that the restaurant part is probably the most sober, spare restaurant I’ve ever eaten in. Stone walls, plain wood tables. That’s it. Maybe a mirror on the wall.
That said, the food was good, very good. DH, though coming off his bout with Le Grippe, had the anchovies in oil in a ceramic pot—very plain, very traditional, very good. Son and I had cod fritters, then ravioli with crab—homemade and luxurious. Mains were monkfish with mushrooms, a plate of iberico ham and lamb with black trumpets du mort mushrooms. Everything was rich and good.
If I go again, I’d bite the bullet and elbow my way to the bar. They charge only 1.8 euros per pintxo. This is a place you could try many fabulous, beautiful things, for very little—if you have good balance. I asked if we could sample some in the dining room but they just won’t let you eat them sitting down. I guess if they did, people would just never leave.
Irati is in the Barri Gotic area, a place with a scarcity of good restaurants in my experience, so it’s worth remembering.
So endeth the B list. On to C.
<b>Suquet de la Almiral</b>
On previous trips we’ve always been attracted to the Port Vell area with its lovely harbor next to Barceloneta and we’ve debated which of the open air restaurants just in front of the Catalan History museum even though we knew they’d afford better ambiance than food. This time I came prepared with recommendations in the area. I’d to continue further along the along the harbor an select between the restaurant Barceloneta and Maribel’s recommended Suquet de la Almiral. Since I’d seen pictures of the former and liked others owned by the same group, I’d more or less settled on it in my own mind, when we chanced upon the latter as we were starting to feel a bit chilled and so decided to pop into the inviting little place. So glad we did.
It was just what the doctor ordered. Son was emerging from his bout of Le Grippe and looking for comfort food. The charming waitress took him in hand, brought him some hot tea and made us all feel like we’d soon be getting chicken soup for our travel-worn souls—and bodies. It turned out to be fish soup, of course, not chicken, but it sure did the trick. We started with steamed clams, mussels and whelks. I had the eponymous (there , I’ve finally used that word in a sentence) suquet (a fish soup with potatoes in it, DH continued to chomp on yet more seafood and sick son had a calming rice dish.
Seated near us on this weekend day was an extended family of 12 celebrating some occasion, making the friendly little place seem even more cheerful. It reminded me of a New England/Nantucket resort kind of place with its striped and plaid denim –covered tablecloths and chair cushions. It sure made a rather bleak day cheery for us. It is my new restaurant of choice in the Port Vell area.
<b>Bossborn</b>
We ate twice at this place. It was very convenient to our apartment and our first experience was sufficiently good as to invite a second. For one thing, it was where we were introduced to that great potato/egg/truffle oil dish we enjoyed so much.
I loved the ambiance at this place. It’s a bar with tables for eating . It’s old and the tradition has been preserved while still adding trendy touches that the design-crazed Barcelonans (is that what they’re called?) just can’t get enough of. Even the single red gerbera daisy in the white vase on the table couldn’t just be sitting there by itself. It had to be accompanied by an artsy sprig of just the right greenery to look more interesting.
Service was bar service—serviceable. The waiter did everything he was supposed to because it was his job and he did it well, but there was none of the stupid stuff we tend to have in US restaurants like, “Hi, I’m Harry and I’ll be your waiter today.”
Bossborn has excellent tapas. Good tomato bread, red and white anchovies, steak with mustard on one trip there and cockles, pork pieces, Russian salad—with a hint of orange in the mayo, excellent fried artichokes, and tortilla omelet on the next.
<b>Mussol</b>
I thought this was yet another place that we’d more of less found on our own—and we did, actually—but in looking back over Maribel’s Guide, I see she lists it. We chanced on it because Tapac2 was closed on the first day we tried to eat there and we were all getting tired, hungry and cranky and I decided I’d best give up on a hunt for someplace perfect that I’d read about and just duck into the closest available place that looked like they’d serve something decent. It actually turned out to be a bit more than that.
It had the look of a chain, and it is. Décor is sort of cutesy rustic with multiple levels of seating. There is an open kitchen with grill and we found it amusing that in a Spanish tapas restaurant more than half of the chefs were Asian. What we liked about the food was that it included plenty of green vegetables and we really loved the grilled asparagus. Although the artichokes (which I now see Maribel warns against in her guide) were a bit over grilled, we enjoyed those parts that escaped charring and liked the addition of rosemary. Other than the veggies, though, the food was not really exceptional and as I write this I’m wondering why this is in the B rather than C list. I do note that it’s rated B- while Suquet de la Almiral is rated B+, so there’s range within these ratings.
Veal with cheese, boiled potato with butter—nice in its simplicity, tomato bread, a plate of catalan cold sausages, and hot sausage with beans. Carpaccio of pineapple with lemon crème sounded good but unfortunately wasn’t. Overall the place was there and it satisfied us when we needed it. I’d go again under the same circumstances.
<b>Set Portes</b>
This was where we ate our New Year’s Eve dinner. I selected it assuming it would have a nice party vibe and that the food would be serviceable. It lived up to my expectations and maybe even exceeded them.
The rooms are really beautiful. Overhead hang wide circular lampshades with lights that add a peachy glow to the room and get reflected in mirrors that line the walls. It being a highly traditional place in the port area, there’s also lots of wonderful, pretty old Spanish tiling. It was a perfect NYE venue. And we splurged because it was a festive holiday.
We started with a seafood platter with extra oysters, accompanied by tomato bread with ham slices. DH continued to eat from the seafood, while son had fish and I had a nicely done leg of kid. Goat is my favorite meat and I try to eat a lot of it in BCN. The restaurants we selected this time didn’t often have it on the menu so I was delighted to have it at Set Portes. Theirs was very tender and tasty.
This is another place I’d go again, if in the neighborhood and hunger overtook me at an opportune moment. But with all the wonderful places to pick from I’d not write it into the reservation schedule for another trip—unless I was traveling with friends who I knew would really relish a good, traditional meal in a beautiful traditional setting that they would read about in travel articles ever after and relish looking back and saying, “ah yes, remember the wonderful dinner we had there.”
<b>Irati</b>
We ate in the restaurant part of this place which is primarily a Basque tapas/pinxtos bar. The food was good, but I kept having the feeling that we’d done the wrong thing and that we should have gone instead for the fantastic bar scene with the bits of bread covered in the most beautiful looking stuff being passed from plate to mouth that I’ve ever seen.
This is a tough one for me because I don’t think our party would have been happy had we done the bar thing. I am clumsy, have knee problems and would probably never have lasted through a stand up meal trying to balance a glass of txakoli while holding on to my purse and eating a pintxo. DH is crowd averse. Nonetheless we kept feeling like we were missing the fun. It didn’t help that the restaurant part is probably the most sober, spare restaurant I’ve ever eaten in. Stone walls, plain wood tables. That’s it. Maybe a mirror on the wall.
That said, the food was good, very good. DH, though coming off his bout with Le Grippe, had the anchovies in oil in a ceramic pot—very plain, very traditional, very good. Son and I had cod fritters, then ravioli with crab—homemade and luxurious. Mains were monkfish with mushrooms, a plate of iberico ham and lamb with black trumpets du mort mushrooms. Everything was rich and good.
If I go again, I’d bite the bullet and elbow my way to the bar. They charge only 1.8 euros per pintxo. This is a place you could try many fabulous, beautiful things, for very little—if you have good balance. I asked if we could sample some in the dining room but they just won’t let you eat them sitting down. I guess if they did, people would just never leave.
Irati is in the Barri Gotic area, a place with a scarcity of good restaurants in my experience, so it’s worth remembering.
So endeth the B list. On to C.
Feb 4th, 2009, 05:34 AM
#22
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<b>The C list: not really so bad</b>
It’s a good commentary on the food scene of a city when a traveler can return having eaten 18 meals there and only rate 4 of them “average.” Even the three restaurants (we had two meals at one place) we so rated were acceptable and probably in any other town would have been among the best available.
<b>Cuines in Santa Caterina Market</b>
Our apartment was only 2 or 3 blocks from this place so when we got to town on Boxing Day holiday and got settled after our purse snatching episode and saw that it was still raining quite heavily, I gave up my quest for other tapas places in the neighborhood and opted to head here. I’d spent the flight from Amsterdam to Barcelona shivering in the grip of my case of Le Grippe and just couldn’t muster the courage to venture further.
The place is very cool. I’d peeked in on previous trips while at the market and had it on my list of places to try. It’s a vast open space with a grill kitchen lining one wall and a horseshoe shaped lunch counter in the front. The rest of the room is given over to trestle tables and picnic benches and the walls are used as shelves to hold all manner of cans, serving implements, etc. The back wall is covered in several tows of crowing herbs. As I said, it’s cool, way cool.
The menu is printed on the placemats and its divided into several dissimilar types of food groupings—vegetarian, Asian, Mediterranean, etc. Sorry to say, I was too sickly and listless to take notes of what we ate. I recall razor clams (a favorite but even they didn’t revive me) and fried rice, but not much else.
Even so we returned for dinner that same night. The heavy rain continued. I still felt awful and we were too sick and tired to hunt for the restaurant Id reserved at (turned out to be Bossborn which we repaid by paying two visits later in the week.)
We just didn’t give this place its due. It is cute. There were lots of people eating there, enjoying themselves and the prices were very reasonable. Someone who wasn’t feeling sick and came in from a bright sunny day might find it a perfect spot.
<b>Lonja de Tapa</b>
This is a lesson in how things change. We’d stopped at another restaurant in this 2 or 3 place chain on a previous trip and really enjoyed it. This place didn’t have the same stripped down vibe. It felt a bit crowded and tired, and the food just didn’t seem as good—and once again, it was raining hard. All my notes say is “fairly standard stuff with orange sangria.” Enough already.
<b>Mulet</b>
This was another “just walking by” unplanned selection. It looked attractive and it was in the right place at the right time. It’s attractive look came from a black and white design décor with blue lighting. Cool, or “chic” as son kept saying. My pasta pesto salad was fairly mundane except for the very clever addition of two large shrimp wrapped in crispy spaghetti strands. The crunch was terrific but the base was bland. Similar reaction to my papardelle with mushroom suace. Son, however, liked his cannelon of langostine and hake, so overall the place was 50/50. I wouldn’t return but son maybe would.
<b>El Tunnel de Port</b>
Like the places in Port Vell, the places in the Olympic Port always seem to outwit me. Do we want to eat upstairs with views of the sea, downstairs under the tents with the circus-like atmosphere and the hawkers, or should we stick to the area near the big hotel and opt for one of the super-trendy looking spots? This time we opted for view and picked El Tunnel de Port.
We got plenty of view. Even watched folks playing volleyball on the beach. The service was old-worldly and attentive and my Zarzuela was good but my bean salad over arugula was bad. I was expecting white beans. Instead I got funny wrinkly sort of slimy green beans with mint. I must find out what these beans are. I’d had them once before, in Tossa del Mar, in a soup, I think. Whatever they are, I don’t like them. Anyone know?
As I say, the zarzuela, a tomato based fish stew with all kind of fish and shellfish and plenty of it, was good. Nonetheless, the overall impression I formed of the place was that it was a bit tired and joyless. I would not return.
<b>A couple more places to mention</b>
So that’s it for our meals. But besides eating we stopped to snack or have a drink every so often and here’s what I recall about those places.
<b>Vinya del Senor</b>
This is one of my all time favorite wine bars. The interior is small—with a bar, a couple of tall tables and galvanized steel surfaces—and wine boxes everywhere. Outside there are 4 or 5 round tables with a view across the square to the front of the Santa Maria del Mar church. The shaved Serrano ham is perfection. The wine is served in lovely thin big wine glasses. You feel that the servers know and love wine. It’s just great. We stopped as often as we could.
<b>Bar by the Palau Nacional</b>
A wonderful stop after escalating up the hill to the museum at the top. Views back down over the city are great and the Barcelona type chairs made of cushy black rubber tubes may be the most comfortable I’ve ever sat in.
<b> Sagardi</b>
We walked by this Basque pintxos place just as they were opening on a Sunday morning. There was no one else there, so we had no problem “elbowing” our way to the bar for a couple of the bread based toothpick held snacks. It being early, we chose some pretty innocuous, almost breakfast toppings like smoked salmon and a slice of tortilla, but they were good.
<b>Vinotast Torres</b>
This very modern, chic wine bar is near the point where Passeig de Gracia meets the Diagonal. The bar is lit by long narrow gauge poles that end in a light directed downward—probably 6 or 7 rows of such poles. It’s pretty striking. They serve their wines in nice glassware and play a repeating loop of a travelogue of their winery and vineyards on the flat screen tvs behind the bar. It’s cool and we enjoyed it—but we LOVED Vinya del Senyor.
<b>Cal Pep</b>
Almost made it. Walking around El Born not far from our apartment around noon, we came across a long line of people and couldn’t figure out what was happening. Finally it dawned on me. This was the infamous Cal Pep tapas bar, and this was the line to be seated as they opened. Heck, why not. We got in line and almost instantly the doors opened and the line filed in to grab the available seats at the bar—until about two people in front of us became the beginning of the group to wait for those seated to be done so that they could eat as seats opened up. DH is not a wait-er. I knew immediately that I’d not make it on this trip either, and so we plowed on to return to Bossborn for lunch. Maybe next time.
Writing these posts, I’ve gotten into a deep funk of yearning to return to Barcelona. It really is one of our favorite cities—second only to Paris. I must start collecting recommendations for where to eat next time.
Hope you enjoyed the report. Thanks to those who have said so based on earlier posts. And thanks to those of you who have shared your knowledge of Barcelona and its food to help us make our time their swell even in spite of the poor weather. Thanks especially to Maribel who has given us and all others on this forum such helpful information about BCN and all of Spain. Through her and our own experiences we’ve learned to love the country and BCN especially.
It’s a good commentary on the food scene of a city when a traveler can return having eaten 18 meals there and only rate 4 of them “average.” Even the three restaurants (we had two meals at one place) we so rated were acceptable and probably in any other town would have been among the best available.
<b>Cuines in Santa Caterina Market</b>
Our apartment was only 2 or 3 blocks from this place so when we got to town on Boxing Day holiday and got settled after our purse snatching episode and saw that it was still raining quite heavily, I gave up my quest for other tapas places in the neighborhood and opted to head here. I’d spent the flight from Amsterdam to Barcelona shivering in the grip of my case of Le Grippe and just couldn’t muster the courage to venture further.
The place is very cool. I’d peeked in on previous trips while at the market and had it on my list of places to try. It’s a vast open space with a grill kitchen lining one wall and a horseshoe shaped lunch counter in the front. The rest of the room is given over to trestle tables and picnic benches and the walls are used as shelves to hold all manner of cans, serving implements, etc. The back wall is covered in several tows of crowing herbs. As I said, it’s cool, way cool.
The menu is printed on the placemats and its divided into several dissimilar types of food groupings—vegetarian, Asian, Mediterranean, etc. Sorry to say, I was too sickly and listless to take notes of what we ate. I recall razor clams (a favorite but even they didn’t revive me) and fried rice, but not much else.
Even so we returned for dinner that same night. The heavy rain continued. I still felt awful and we were too sick and tired to hunt for the restaurant Id reserved at (turned out to be Bossborn which we repaid by paying two visits later in the week.)
We just didn’t give this place its due. It is cute. There were lots of people eating there, enjoying themselves and the prices were very reasonable. Someone who wasn’t feeling sick and came in from a bright sunny day might find it a perfect spot.
<b>Lonja de Tapa</b>
This is a lesson in how things change. We’d stopped at another restaurant in this 2 or 3 place chain on a previous trip and really enjoyed it. This place didn’t have the same stripped down vibe. It felt a bit crowded and tired, and the food just didn’t seem as good—and once again, it was raining hard. All my notes say is “fairly standard stuff with orange sangria.” Enough already.
<b>Mulet</b>
This was another “just walking by” unplanned selection. It looked attractive and it was in the right place at the right time. It’s attractive look came from a black and white design décor with blue lighting. Cool, or “chic” as son kept saying. My pasta pesto salad was fairly mundane except for the very clever addition of two large shrimp wrapped in crispy spaghetti strands. The crunch was terrific but the base was bland. Similar reaction to my papardelle with mushroom suace. Son, however, liked his cannelon of langostine and hake, so overall the place was 50/50. I wouldn’t return but son maybe would.
<b>El Tunnel de Port</b>
Like the places in Port Vell, the places in the Olympic Port always seem to outwit me. Do we want to eat upstairs with views of the sea, downstairs under the tents with the circus-like atmosphere and the hawkers, or should we stick to the area near the big hotel and opt for one of the super-trendy looking spots? This time we opted for view and picked El Tunnel de Port.
We got plenty of view. Even watched folks playing volleyball on the beach. The service was old-worldly and attentive and my Zarzuela was good but my bean salad over arugula was bad. I was expecting white beans. Instead I got funny wrinkly sort of slimy green beans with mint. I must find out what these beans are. I’d had them once before, in Tossa del Mar, in a soup, I think. Whatever they are, I don’t like them. Anyone know?
As I say, the zarzuela, a tomato based fish stew with all kind of fish and shellfish and plenty of it, was good. Nonetheless, the overall impression I formed of the place was that it was a bit tired and joyless. I would not return.
<b>A couple more places to mention</b>
So that’s it for our meals. But besides eating we stopped to snack or have a drink every so often and here’s what I recall about those places.
<b>Vinya del Senor</b>
This is one of my all time favorite wine bars. The interior is small—with a bar, a couple of tall tables and galvanized steel surfaces—and wine boxes everywhere. Outside there are 4 or 5 round tables with a view across the square to the front of the Santa Maria del Mar church. The shaved Serrano ham is perfection. The wine is served in lovely thin big wine glasses. You feel that the servers know and love wine. It’s just great. We stopped as often as we could.
<b>Bar by the Palau Nacional</b>
A wonderful stop after escalating up the hill to the museum at the top. Views back down over the city are great and the Barcelona type chairs made of cushy black rubber tubes may be the most comfortable I’ve ever sat in.
<b> Sagardi</b>
We walked by this Basque pintxos place just as they were opening on a Sunday morning. There was no one else there, so we had no problem “elbowing” our way to the bar for a couple of the bread based toothpick held snacks. It being early, we chose some pretty innocuous, almost breakfast toppings like smoked salmon and a slice of tortilla, but they were good.
<b>Vinotast Torres</b>
This very modern, chic wine bar is near the point where Passeig de Gracia meets the Diagonal. The bar is lit by long narrow gauge poles that end in a light directed downward—probably 6 or 7 rows of such poles. It’s pretty striking. They serve their wines in nice glassware and play a repeating loop of a travelogue of their winery and vineyards on the flat screen tvs behind the bar. It’s cool and we enjoyed it—but we LOVED Vinya del Senyor.
<b>Cal Pep</b>
Almost made it. Walking around El Born not far from our apartment around noon, we came across a long line of people and couldn’t figure out what was happening. Finally it dawned on me. This was the infamous Cal Pep tapas bar, and this was the line to be seated as they opened. Heck, why not. We got in line and almost instantly the doors opened and the line filed in to grab the available seats at the bar—until about two people in front of us became the beginning of the group to wait for those seated to be done so that they could eat as seats opened up. DH is not a wait-er. I knew immediately that I’d not make it on this trip either, and so we plowed on to return to Bossborn for lunch. Maybe next time.
Writing these posts, I’ve gotten into a deep funk of yearning to return to Barcelona. It really is one of our favorite cities—second only to Paris. I must start collecting recommendations for where to eat next time.
Hope you enjoyed the report. Thanks to those who have said so based on earlier posts. And thanks to those of you who have shared your knowledge of Barcelona and its food to help us make our time their swell even in spite of the poor weather. Thanks especially to Maribel who has given us and all others on this forum such helpful information about BCN and all of Spain. Through her and our own experiences we’ve learned to love the country and BCN especially.
Feb 4th, 2009, 06:33 AM
#24
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Julie--
Thanks for a great report. I can't wait to follow your eating trail. We really enjoy the bar at Irati. If you decide to go for the bar next time, make sure to save the toothpicks since the final accounting is based on a self-reported toothpick tally.
Where's the next trip?
Thanks for a great report. I can't wait to follow your eating trail. We really enjoy the bar at Irati. If you decide to go for the bar next time, make sure to save the toothpicks since the final accounting is based on a self-reported toothpick tally.
Where's the next trip?
Feb 4th, 2009, 06:38 AM
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Thanks Julie for your trip report.
While I enjoyed Gaudi's architecture and the Park, I think Palau de la Musica Catalana AND Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau are even more impressive. Both of them were designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, and combined, they are designated as a UNESCO heritage site. I feel that these two places were eclipsed by the fame of Gaudi in Barcelona, and it saddens me that so few tourists (esp the Hospital) visit them, esp given the Hospital is only 4 blocks away from Sagrada Familia, reportedly the most visited tourist site in Spain.
My favorite dish at Comerc 24 was the oxtail. Mmmmm....
While I enjoyed Gaudi's architecture and the Park, I think Palau de la Musica Catalana AND Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau are even more impressive. Both of them were designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, and combined, they are designated as a UNESCO heritage site. I feel that these two places were eclipsed by the fame of Gaudi in Barcelona, and it saddens me that so few tourists (esp the Hospital) visit them, esp given the Hospital is only 4 blocks away from Sagrada Familia, reportedly the most visited tourist site in Spain.
My favorite dish at Comerc 24 was the oxtail. Mmmmm....
Feb 4th, 2009, 07:21 AM
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"Writing these posts, I’ve gotten into a deep funk of yearning to return to Barcelona. It really is one of our favorite cities—second only to Paris."
reading your post makes me feel the same way!
We got into Cal Pep for lunch, set at the bar and had the best time ever - it was not just the fresh food, but the friendly atmosphere ( they shook our hand at the end), Cal Pep right there , the "vibe" ...
reading your post makes me feel the same way!
We got into Cal Pep for lunch, set at the bar and had the best time ever - it was not just the fresh food, but the friendly atmosphere ( they shook our hand at the end), Cal Pep right there , the "vibe" ...
Feb 4th, 2009, 10:10 AM
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Thanks all. Glad my report struck a chord with you.
Marjia, we are in Paris next and I'm also planning Brittany, Scandinavian stops on a cruise and Lake Como, Piemonte, Nice for much later in the year. We're booked for Paris and the cruise, I'm searching--and searching--fares for the other two. We're not as young as we once were and we're not getting any younger. We figure we'd best go as much as we can as soon as we can. Not a bad quest when you think about it.
Marjia, we are in Paris next and I'm also planning Brittany, Scandinavian stops on a cruise and Lake Como, Piemonte, Nice for much later in the year. We're booked for Paris and the cruise, I'm searching--and searching--fares for the other two. We're not as young as we once were and we're not getting any younger. We figure we'd best go as much as we can as soon as we can. Not a bad quest when you think about it.
Feb 4th, 2009, 10:12 AM
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yk, I always love oxtail, and theirs was really good.
danon, ok. that seals it, next time we start camping about about 11 a.m. for one of the first wave seats at Cal Pep. Some things must be done.
danon, ok. that seals it, next time we start camping about about 11 a.m. for one of the first wave seats at Cal Pep. Some things must be done.
Feb 4th, 2009, 11:04 AM
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Cal Pep review from last year
My splurge meal for the trip was Cal Pep. It is on a small square near the water and people gather outside a shuttered restaurant until 1:30 when the metal gate is pulled up. There is an immediate frenzy. You are seated around a counter and the workers scramble to feed all the dinners who just arrived simultaneously. Unless you ask otherwise you get the tapas specials of the day which this day were fried mixed seafood tapa and another of small clams. The fried seafood contained many fish with whom I was not familiar. For those I just removed the heads and ate was left. It was not their best dish. The clams were garlicky and fresh. My main course sea bass was perfectly poached, unfortunately I ordered the razor clams. It was my fault. My Spanish is awful and my English has deteriorated. The meal was 40 Euros.
My splurge meal for the trip was Cal Pep. It is on a small square near the water and people gather outside a shuttered restaurant until 1:30 when the metal gate is pulled up. There is an immediate frenzy. You are seated around a counter and the workers scramble to feed all the dinners who just arrived simultaneously. Unless you ask otherwise you get the tapas specials of the day which this day were fried mixed seafood tapa and another of small clams. The fried seafood contained many fish with whom I was not familiar. For those I just removed the heads and ate was left. It was not their best dish. The clams were garlicky and fresh. My main course sea bass was perfectly poached, unfortunately I ordered the razor clams. It was my fault. My Spanish is awful and my English has deteriorated. The meal was 40 Euros.
Feb 4th, 2009, 01:42 PM
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Audchamp, too bad I wasn't there with you. I'd have loved the razor clams. Goat and razor clams are my favorite things to eat in BCN--besides that potato/egg/truffle oil thing. Thanks for the extra incentive to get to Cal Pep.
Feb 4th, 2009, 04:21 PM
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When we were at Cal Pep, they asked if we just wanted to be served and what we liked. I speak passable Spanish, so I told them my husband did not like fish or seafood but all other tapas were fine. They continue to serve us until I finally said " Nada mas"
We were stuffed, had several beers,
the last dish was the most expensive (beef )the bill was a bit over 60 euros.
We'll be in Barcelona in Oct. - Cal Pep, here we come!
We were stuffed, had several beers,
the last dish was the most expensive (beef )the bill was a bit over 60 euros.
We'll be in Barcelona in Oct. - Cal Pep, here we come!
Feb 9th, 2009, 07:17 AM
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Nice report -- I love Paco Meralgo, too. Enjoyed one of my best meals in Barcelona there.
I also enjoyed my food at Cal Pep, but one of the things that put me off was the "no menu" policy. The "chef's choice" plan is one they try to sell to tourists, fyi. The locals who go there order things by name. Thank goodness I had read about this on Chowhound, including lovely, specific details about good dishes there. I ordered the tortilla (excellent), little clams (taillerinas?), croquetas (we saw them and couldn't resist), and steak (ternera), and tomato bread.
Sorry to hear about the purse-snatching. Before my trip, I read so much about Barcelona's petty crime, I became paranoid about even carrying a purse or wallet. In the end, I left both at home. I carried three credit/debit cards in an inside pocket of my coat, cash in another pocket, and change in a ziplock bag in a tote bag. I have to admit, however, that after 2 days in Spain, I began to feel pretty silly for not bringing my purse. Granted, I've read about many, many Barcelona purse-snatchings on Fodor's -- but the city seemed as dangerous as any big city -- that is, vigilance is necessary, but no need to be as neurotic as I was.
I also enjoyed my food at Cal Pep, but one of the things that put me off was the "no menu" policy. The "chef's choice" plan is one they try to sell to tourists, fyi. The locals who go there order things by name. Thank goodness I had read about this on Chowhound, including lovely, specific details about good dishes there. I ordered the tortilla (excellent), little clams (taillerinas?), croquetas (we saw them and couldn't resist), and steak (ternera), and tomato bread.
Sorry to hear about the purse-snatching. Before my trip, I read so much about Barcelona's petty crime, I became paranoid about even carrying a purse or wallet. In the end, I left both at home. I carried three credit/debit cards in an inside pocket of my coat, cash in another pocket, and change in a ziplock bag in a tote bag. I have to admit, however, that after 2 days in Spain, I began to feel pretty silly for not bringing my purse. Granted, I've read about many, many Barcelona purse-snatchings on Fodor's -- but the city seemed as dangerous as any big city -- that is, vigilance is necessary, but no need to be as neurotic as I was.
Feb 9th, 2009, 04:34 PM
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Hi JulieV,
Wow, wow, wow, Julie, where do I begin? I'm so sorry I missed the report in its initial stages while I was traveling but am so glad you "led" me to it on other threads! One of your very best reports to date, but then, I love all of them, as we are certainly like-minded in travel style and kindred foodies.
Here goes-you've triggered so many thoughts!
First and foremost, I'm really sorry that you fell victim to a purse-snatching on your arrival day to boot, but you handle the whole affair with great aplomb and even better spirits. And the savvy way you handle the prescription drug issue is a lesson to travelers. I always purchase my prescription ointments in Spain, and the pharmacists are utterly shocked when I tell them what I pay for an ointment in the US that costs only a tiny fraction of that sum in Spain!
I too love to fly on Xmas Day. No crowds, the cabin crew is invariably in a festive mood, greater chance for an upgrade to business....
My hubby and I feel the same way as you regarding an apartment rental. It's just not for us, and for the two of us we don't find it a significant money saver unless we stay 7 or more days and make sure we don't over-shop for groceries so as not to leave them to waste. I also don't enjoy the daily cleanup or worry about limited hot water for showers, etc. We have an upcoming week in the Navarran Pyrenees where we've opted to stay at an inn rather than rent a country home, because, honestly, we do enjoy the camaraderie of our innkeepers and appreciate their invaluable advice and daily "insider" tips, which have lead us to such memorable experiences.
We're still partial, though, to the Esquerra (Left) Eixample (more residential), and probably will continue to lodge there because we feel less need there for "extra vigilance" of our belongings, Also most of our favorite "haunts" are located there, including the gorgeous Casa Fuster for an after dinner drink.
But we'll make frequent trips to El Born for the lively, hip vibe and our favorites there, which are also yours-BossBorn (much, much better quality than Lonja de Tapas, agreed!), La Vinya del Senyor, Cuines de Santa Caterina (better for tapas at the bar, I think) and the terrific chocolate emporia.
I'm glad that you were able to hit the Caixa Forum. I've seen quite impressive special exhibits there, and I highly recommend its new Madrid counterpart on the Art Walk, across from the Prado.
Your new favorite dish! In the Rioja, "menestra", in Paris, "aligote" and now "huevos estrellados", which is what that irresistible, infarctional concoction is called In Madrid! But there you won't find it drizzled with truffle oil (yum!). One of Madrid's best versions of said dish is at Casa Lucio on the Cava Baja.
I agree that the Tapac 24 rendition is particularly delicious, along with their foie gras burger.
Tapac24 and Paco Meralgo are the 2 tapas bars that will forever be on our "go every time" list.
We also like Irati right off the Ramblas in the Barri Gotic (which is a member of the same group as Sagardi, which in fact, runs the restaurant at the Palau de la Música). You were seated in the back in what in Basque is called the "txoko", and yep, it's bare wood tables and stools or benches sans other decorative elements-typical cider house decor. Pared down atmosphere so that the food can take center stage. Next time, try the pintxos route, or if you'd like to do the pintxos ritual sitting down, go to the Eixample to another fantastic Basque, Taktika Berri, on València 169-equal in quality with a refined, upscale Exiample ambience (larger space, less jammed in and easier on the feet and knees!)
I'm relieved to read your glowing review of Tapac24's molecular gastronomy restaurant brother, Comerc24, which follows yk's solid review. I've had conflicting reports on it, more having to do with the service than the cuisine. I think that these less favorable reports come from those who just don't highly experimental fare.
When I told you I had the best meal of my life at Can Fabes, I wasn't exaggerating, so I'm so happy that you found it as memorable too! We arrived at the end of our repast so satiated that we simply didn't have room for dessert. Much to our surprise, a tray of homemade sorbets appeared-4 of them-all lined up in a row, followed by a tray of petits fours. We barely made it back to the car and back to our Mas Ferrer, luckily, a short drive away in neighboring Gualba.
For high end in Barcelona, I think Windsor's tasting menu represents one of the city's best bargains. So nice that they gave you the same table in the gorgeous covered terrace.
El Rovell is indeed your great find, not mine. I do see that in merits a nod in the red Michelin '09, along with Irati.
I appreciated your very eloquent explanation of the "charms" for first time visitors of dining at the traditional Set Portes-very well put. I'm glad they pulled out all the stops for you for NYE after your concert at the Palau. For delicious rice dishes, La Mifanera is another for you to try next visit (off the Diagonal).
www.lamifanera.com
El Mussol-I list it in my guide as "an easy on the budget family place"-a themed restaurant (the owl) that kids could enjoy as long as they stay away from the charred artichokes! They do serve a very decent gazpacho and yummy allioli as a dipping sauce.
Glad you made it to Gresca, Barcelona's leading bistronomic. I have a few more "to assign", if you choose to accept another dining assignment, for your next trip! You're a model student, BTW!
Well, enough for now-sorry the drizzly weather put a damper on your planned trips to Sitges and cava country, but there's always a next time!
Thanks again, Julie, for a delightful read, as always.
And enjoy your wonderful trips ahead in '09.
Wow, wow, wow, Julie, where do I begin? I'm so sorry I missed the report in its initial stages while I was traveling but am so glad you "led" me to it on other threads! One of your very best reports to date, but then, I love all of them, as we are certainly like-minded in travel style and kindred foodies.
Here goes-you've triggered so many thoughts!
First and foremost, I'm really sorry that you fell victim to a purse-snatching on your arrival day to boot, but you handle the whole affair with great aplomb and even better spirits. And the savvy way you handle the prescription drug issue is a lesson to travelers. I always purchase my prescription ointments in Spain, and the pharmacists are utterly shocked when I tell them what I pay for an ointment in the US that costs only a tiny fraction of that sum in Spain!
I too love to fly on Xmas Day. No crowds, the cabin crew is invariably in a festive mood, greater chance for an upgrade to business....
My hubby and I feel the same way as you regarding an apartment rental. It's just not for us, and for the two of us we don't find it a significant money saver unless we stay 7 or more days and make sure we don't over-shop for groceries so as not to leave them to waste. I also don't enjoy the daily cleanup or worry about limited hot water for showers, etc. We have an upcoming week in the Navarran Pyrenees where we've opted to stay at an inn rather than rent a country home, because, honestly, we do enjoy the camaraderie of our innkeepers and appreciate their invaluable advice and daily "insider" tips, which have lead us to such memorable experiences.
We're still partial, though, to the Esquerra (Left) Eixample (more residential), and probably will continue to lodge there because we feel less need there for "extra vigilance" of our belongings, Also most of our favorite "haunts" are located there, including the gorgeous Casa Fuster for an after dinner drink.
But we'll make frequent trips to El Born for the lively, hip vibe and our favorites there, which are also yours-BossBorn (much, much better quality than Lonja de Tapas, agreed!), La Vinya del Senyor, Cuines de Santa Caterina (better for tapas at the bar, I think) and the terrific chocolate emporia.
I'm glad that you were able to hit the Caixa Forum. I've seen quite impressive special exhibits there, and I highly recommend its new Madrid counterpart on the Art Walk, across from the Prado.
Your new favorite dish! In the Rioja, "menestra", in Paris, "aligote" and now "huevos estrellados", which is what that irresistible, infarctional concoction is called In Madrid! But there you won't find it drizzled with truffle oil (yum!). One of Madrid's best versions of said dish is at Casa Lucio on the Cava Baja.
I agree that the Tapac 24 rendition is particularly delicious, along with their foie gras burger.
Tapac24 and Paco Meralgo are the 2 tapas bars that will forever be on our "go every time" list.
We also like Irati right off the Ramblas in the Barri Gotic (which is a member of the same group as Sagardi, which in fact, runs the restaurant at the Palau de la Música). You were seated in the back in what in Basque is called the "txoko", and yep, it's bare wood tables and stools or benches sans other decorative elements-typical cider house decor. Pared down atmosphere so that the food can take center stage. Next time, try the pintxos route, or if you'd like to do the pintxos ritual sitting down, go to the Eixample to another fantastic Basque, Taktika Berri, on València 169-equal in quality with a refined, upscale Exiample ambience (larger space, less jammed in and easier on the feet and knees!)
I'm relieved to read your glowing review of Tapac24's molecular gastronomy restaurant brother, Comerc24, which follows yk's solid review. I've had conflicting reports on it, more having to do with the service than the cuisine. I think that these less favorable reports come from those who just don't highly experimental fare.
When I told you I had the best meal of my life at Can Fabes, I wasn't exaggerating, so I'm so happy that you found it as memorable too! We arrived at the end of our repast so satiated that we simply didn't have room for dessert. Much to our surprise, a tray of homemade sorbets appeared-4 of them-all lined up in a row, followed by a tray of petits fours. We barely made it back to the car and back to our Mas Ferrer, luckily, a short drive away in neighboring Gualba.
For high end in Barcelona, I think Windsor's tasting menu represents one of the city's best bargains. So nice that they gave you the same table in the gorgeous covered terrace.
El Rovell is indeed your great find, not mine. I do see that in merits a nod in the red Michelin '09, along with Irati.
I appreciated your very eloquent explanation of the "charms" for first time visitors of dining at the traditional Set Portes-very well put. I'm glad they pulled out all the stops for you for NYE after your concert at the Palau. For delicious rice dishes, La Mifanera is another for you to try next visit (off the Diagonal).
www.lamifanera.com
El Mussol-I list it in my guide as "an easy on the budget family place"-a themed restaurant (the owl) that kids could enjoy as long as they stay away from the charred artichokes! They do serve a very decent gazpacho and yummy allioli as a dipping sauce.
Glad you made it to Gresca, Barcelona's leading bistronomic. I have a few more "to assign", if you choose to accept another dining assignment, for your next trip! You're a model student, BTW!
Well, enough for now-sorry the drizzly weather put a damper on your planned trips to Sitges and cava country, but there's always a next time!
Thanks again, Julie, for a delightful read, as always.
And enjoy your wonderful trips ahead in '09.
Feb 10th, 2009, 02:29 AM
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Maribel, so glad I finally waved my hand long and high enough to get the "teacher's" attention. Glad I finally "found" you. Thanks for putting a name to my new favorite egg and potato dish.
We're starting to look at BCN as an annual destination like Paris. We're also starting to maintain a "must return" list that will increasingly narrow the number of new places we can try. I guess even good things have their downsides. I'm even finding myself spending more time reading and responding to posts about BCN than about Paris on this site.
Glad to hear that I'm not the only one who just can't get on the apartment stay bandwagon. I agree that getting to know the hotel staff is a fun part of the travel experience. We'll be two weeks in Paris in March and I held off on booking until we'd had the BCN experience to see how we'd like apartment dwelling. When we got back I immediately called our old favorite Parc St. Severin and was relieved to hear Beatrice assure me that they had room for us.
Thanks for giving the correct name for Tapac24. I don't know why I concluded that their number was 2 rather than 24. Whatever the number, though, the food is great. And I can't wait to have more of it.
Thanks also for the tip on Taktiki Berri as an alternative to Irati where I will be able to get pinxtos without standing and elbowing at the bar. It's not that the scene is abhorrent or anything, it's just that I'm not good at it. Sure wish I were. It looked fantastic at Irati.
Our plans for the rest of this year (Paris, Normandy and Brittany, Italian Lakes, Piemonte and Nice) don't include more Spain travel but if they change and we find a good fare to BCN or if we include it or other Spain destinations in next year's plan, I'll sure be looking for more assignments. We do love to eat. And BCN and Spain can sure furnish great homework.
How about you? Where were you traveling while I was reporting? Will we be seeing more reports or guides of sights and wonderful food from yet another region of Spain anytime soon?
We're starting to look at BCN as an annual destination like Paris. We're also starting to maintain a "must return" list that will increasingly narrow the number of new places we can try. I guess even good things have their downsides. I'm even finding myself spending more time reading and responding to posts about BCN than about Paris on this site.
Glad to hear that I'm not the only one who just can't get on the apartment stay bandwagon. I agree that getting to know the hotel staff is a fun part of the travel experience. We'll be two weeks in Paris in March and I held off on booking until we'd had the BCN experience to see how we'd like apartment dwelling. When we got back I immediately called our old favorite Parc St. Severin and was relieved to hear Beatrice assure me that they had room for us.
Thanks for giving the correct name for Tapac24. I don't know why I concluded that their number was 2 rather than 24. Whatever the number, though, the food is great. And I can't wait to have more of it.
Thanks also for the tip on Taktiki Berri as an alternative to Irati where I will be able to get pinxtos without standing and elbowing at the bar. It's not that the scene is abhorrent or anything, it's just that I'm not good at it. Sure wish I were. It looked fantastic at Irati.
Our plans for the rest of this year (Paris, Normandy and Brittany, Italian Lakes, Piemonte and Nice) don't include more Spain travel but if they change and we find a good fare to BCN or if we include it or other Spain destinations in next year's plan, I'll sure be looking for more assignments. We do love to eat. And BCN and Spain can sure furnish great homework.
How about you? Where were you traveling while I was reporting? Will we be seeing more reports or guides of sights and wonderful food from yet another region of Spain anytime soon?
Feb 10th, 2009, 01:43 PM
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Hi Julie,
I certainly don't blame you for going right back to visit the wonderful Beatrice, a gem, and the Parc St. Severin. Our best friends make it their base each year in Paris, and we just can't talk them into joining us in the 7th! The Parc St. Severin just feels so much now like "home" to them, and I can certainly understand why. Lovely Beatrice is the reason we were able to take a peek at the famous penthouse suite with wraparound terrace. When we were visiting, we simply asked her about its rate, and through sheer luck it wasn't booked for that day or the next, so Beatrice just gave us the key to go up and take a long look!
Unfortunately my most recent travels were just to the midwest with an unexpected overnight at ORD courtesy of US Air-that's why I missed your post.
But we do have several nice Northern Spain/Southwestern France trips coming up for '09:
In March a 3 week trip to Madrid, the Navarran Pyrenees and Pays Basque and MORE Rioja wine touring! Yipee! And on route we want to check the progress of the new Richard Rodgers winery in the Ribera del Duero that he's designed for Bodegas Portia. Rumor has it that he'll also be adding a small hotel-the Gehry effect.
In June, Cantabria/Asturias, staying at our favorite casonas.
From July 4-15, work, work, work (5 am until w-e-l-l past midnight) during Pamplona's Fiesta de San Fermín.
After July 15, two weeks of R & R between San Sebastián and Biarritz
In late October, a big scouting trip around Galicia (busman's holiday) to see what's new and finally to explore the eastern side.
Have to finish my files on Navarra, Cantabria, Asturias, rural Catalunya and get them up on my travel page.
After Xmas, who knows? But most likely back to Barcelona! We love it as a winter destination.
Speaking of your new favorite dish, I had an o.k. version of it the other day here in Seattle at the new US outpost of the Taberna del Alabardero, sister to the ones in D.C., Madrid, Sevilla and Puerto Banús. Not bad, but no truffle oil!
The dish is also called "broken eggs", huevos rotos.
And speaking of that, did you possibly try it at a tapas bar at the end of Calle Laurel (San Agustín) in Logroño? It's the new place I posted about, called "Los Rotos", with outdoor high tables and green umbrellas with the inside filled with vintage radios? Ring a bell?
In Madrid another spot to try you new favorite-El Landó, the cousin of Casa Lucio, a quintessential Madrid tavern-restaurant as "castizo" (authentic/genuine Madrid) as they come, near the Royal Palace.
Graziella led me to it, and it has since become a favorite.
Now, if I can someday nudge you down to Extremadura, you may come back with a new favorite dish-"patatas revolconas"! Double mashed potatoes with pancheta, paprika and chorizo. It's a typical dish of the Tiétar Valley (Salamanca and Avila as well), equally irresistible!
Question-Did you by any chance find those goose barnacles (percebes) at the market? Just curious as to the current skyhigh price per kilo!
I certainly don't blame you for going right back to visit the wonderful Beatrice, a gem, and the Parc St. Severin. Our best friends make it their base each year in Paris, and we just can't talk them into joining us in the 7th! The Parc St. Severin just feels so much now like "home" to them, and I can certainly understand why. Lovely Beatrice is the reason we were able to take a peek at the famous penthouse suite with wraparound terrace. When we were visiting, we simply asked her about its rate, and through sheer luck it wasn't booked for that day or the next, so Beatrice just gave us the key to go up and take a long look!
Unfortunately my most recent travels were just to the midwest with an unexpected overnight at ORD courtesy of US Air-that's why I missed your post.
But we do have several nice Northern Spain/Southwestern France trips coming up for '09:
In March a 3 week trip to Madrid, the Navarran Pyrenees and Pays Basque and MORE Rioja wine touring! Yipee! And on route we want to check the progress of the new Richard Rodgers winery in the Ribera del Duero that he's designed for Bodegas Portia. Rumor has it that he'll also be adding a small hotel-the Gehry effect.
In June, Cantabria/Asturias, staying at our favorite casonas.
From July 4-15, work, work, work (5 am until w-e-l-l past midnight) during Pamplona's Fiesta de San Fermín.
After July 15, two weeks of R & R between San Sebastián and Biarritz
In late October, a big scouting trip around Galicia (busman's holiday) to see what's new and finally to explore the eastern side.
Have to finish my files on Navarra, Cantabria, Asturias, rural Catalunya and get them up on my travel page.
After Xmas, who knows? But most likely back to Barcelona! We love it as a winter destination.
Speaking of your new favorite dish, I had an o.k. version of it the other day here in Seattle at the new US outpost of the Taberna del Alabardero, sister to the ones in D.C., Madrid, Sevilla and Puerto Banús. Not bad, but no truffle oil!
The dish is also called "broken eggs", huevos rotos.
And speaking of that, did you possibly try it at a tapas bar at the end of Calle Laurel (San Agustín) in Logroño? It's the new place I posted about, called "Los Rotos", with outdoor high tables and green umbrellas with the inside filled with vintage radios? Ring a bell?
In Madrid another spot to try you new favorite-El Landó, the cousin of Casa Lucio, a quintessential Madrid tavern-restaurant as "castizo" (authentic/genuine Madrid) as they come, near the Royal Palace.
Graziella led me to it, and it has since become a favorite.
Now, if I can someday nudge you down to Extremadura, you may come back with a new favorite dish-"patatas revolconas"! Double mashed potatoes with pancheta, paprika and chorizo. It's a typical dish of the Tiétar Valley (Salamanca and Avila as well), equally irresistible!
Question-Did you by any chance find those goose barnacles (percebes) at the market? Just curious as to the current skyhigh price per kilo!
Feb 11th, 2009, 02:47 AM
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I envy your life--but you must hear that all the time. Will your time in Cantabria/Asturias include a visit to Villa Rosario? I recall checking out and telling the woman at the front desk how much we'd enjoyed it and then having her ask hopefully if we'd be returning this year. It made me so sad to say "likely not." We so loved that place--not just the hotel but also the town. And there's still the Arbidel to check out.
Your days in Pamplona do sound grueling but knowing that there's Basque country on the other side should carry you through.
Gosh, another Taberna del Alabardero in the States. I love the one in DC. We have friends who have moved to Seattle and we hope to see them if not this year, then next, combined with a first look at Vancouver, so I'll keep that in mind.
In Logrono we wound up down the street from Los Rotos though we popped in to see the place, but I never had huevos estrelladas there--or in Logrono at all.
Thanks for the recommendations on Madrid. Next time we go there, we'll have to put it at the beginning rather than the end of the trip. Recall it was last on our Cantabria/Asturias/Galicia trip and we ate Chinese and Scandinavian.
So sorry on the percebes. I saw them only once--at the Bouqueria and didn't note the price. It was my intention to return to purchase some and boil them up in the apartment (one of the best reasons I could come up with for apartment over hotel rooms) but we never got back and Santa Caterina did not have any. That was sort of the story of this trip. With 9 days it seemed like we'd be able to do so many things and then time, weather, and illness got away from us and we didn't get to do so many of them. Another excuse to go back. Perhaps I can find a hotel that will agree to boil me up some percebes.
Enjoy all your upcoming travels. Can't wait to reap the benefits.
Your days in Pamplona do sound grueling but knowing that there's Basque country on the other side should carry you through.
Gosh, another Taberna del Alabardero in the States. I love the one in DC. We have friends who have moved to Seattle and we hope to see them if not this year, then next, combined with a first look at Vancouver, so I'll keep that in mind.
In Logrono we wound up down the street from Los Rotos though we popped in to see the place, but I never had huevos estrelladas there--or in Logrono at all.
Thanks for the recommendations on Madrid. Next time we go there, we'll have to put it at the beginning rather than the end of the trip. Recall it was last on our Cantabria/Asturias/Galicia trip and we ate Chinese and Scandinavian.
So sorry on the percebes. I saw them only once--at the Bouqueria and didn't note the price. It was my intention to return to purchase some and boil them up in the apartment (one of the best reasons I could come up with for apartment over hotel rooms) but we never got back and Santa Caterina did not have any. That was sort of the story of this trip. With 9 days it seemed like we'd be able to do so many things and then time, weather, and illness got away from us and we didn't get to do so many of them. Another excuse to go back. Perhaps I can find a hotel that will agree to boil me up some percebes.
Enjoy all your upcoming travels. Can't wait to reap the benefits.
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yk
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