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For what it's worth, Fodor's advises a visitor to plan a visit only if (s)he has five days:
http://www.fodors.com/miniguides/mgr...;feature=30002 Which are these art critics to whom you're referring, NYCFS? I'd love to see some links. I think that that comment, if true, is just outrageous. |
By any stretch of the imagination, this museum is nowhere near the "most important in Italy." I'd never make such a claim. Prove it.
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In any case, if a tree falls in the forest and no one hears it, what does that mean?
If an attraction is not regarded as very important by a standard guide book, what does that tell us about it, I wonder? |
I don't dispute any of this. I know my art, thanks. And I'm opting for the Vatican and the Uffizi.
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crystalnpat - The Borghese collection stunned and amazed me, largely due to the incredible Bernini sculptures, which seriously challenge my admiration for Rodin. IMO the Borghese is a "must see".
I obtained a reservation, planning to extend my Rome visit by one day to accomodate it, then took an early evening stroll through the park and found no line. When I asked, they got me right in. Perhaps a certain # of people don't keep their reservations! I was there early in March, 2004. |
And at least the Times review stops at
"one of the finest collections of baroque sculpture anywhere." We really should avoid hyperbole. |
Other than the St. Peter's Basilica the Borghese Gallery was my second favorite thing to see in Rome. It was great and an easy 2 hr. visit. The Sistine Chapel and Vatican Museums were wonderful too but just a little overwhelming. We took the audio guide tour.
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The Vatican is amazing. Jaw dropping, astonishing, overwhelming, and evokes powerful emotions. The Ufizzi is a wonderful museum, chock full of some of the best art in Italy. But the Borghese, there is just something about it. The beautiful dual staircase up to the front entrance, the way the art is set about the villa rooms. It is as if you were invited into the King's summer house. It is small enough that you can have your own, quiet, private little 'art' moment without the noise of throngs of people. You are really 'at one' with the sculptures. Each piece is special. As if someone decorated it like a home with the utmost loving care. You walk out of there feeling happy, not exhausted with your head spinning. Trying so hard to explain, but you really just have to feel it for yourself. It may not be the most important museum, but for me, it was certainly the most enjoyable.
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We went there on our first visit to rome . and I enjoyed it very much.But, if i had not gone, I would not have felt the vacation to Rome lacking.
That said, we will be returning to rome next summer(fingers crossed) and even though this will be children's 4th visit to rome, we will be returning to the B. Gallery. I would love to see it again, and I know, that 4 yrs ago, at ages 10 and 13 , my children did not retain any of it. My daughter really enjoys art galleries. |
I didn't see it when I was in Rome. Truthfully, there were just other things I wanted to see more during my three days. I don't regret it today. If I returned to Rome and had time, I'd probably try to go.
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Yes, the Caravaggio's were hanging. I was there in July 1998 and September 2003.
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The Borghese in my opionion is a "must see" in Rome, especially for someone who has an interest in viewing a beautiful environment to see amazing art work and sculptures. Bernini sculptures "shine" at this special place. Every time I visit Rome, I return to visit, as there are so many beautiful details I always discover something new to appreciate.
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What was so amazing to me about the Borghese collection is that this was someone's summer home, and for the most part, someones private collection. Some of the great museums are filled with works amassed from contributions and purchases made. That is not true of this particular collection. Reading all of the previous posts, I think that this point has been overlooked. This is not a collection that is on the par as the Louvre, The Met, etc., but the private collection accumulated over time of Cardinal Borghese, the nephew of Pope Paul V.
There is wonderful scandal here also, as Napoleon's sister, Paolina Borghese (married to Prince Camillo Borghese)posed as Venus for a sculpture by Antonio Canova. So realistic I wanted to touch the pillows to make sure the were actually stone. What a wonderful summer home! |
I was able to just walk right in the Borghese without a reservation. It was around 10:20 in the morning, the people with reservations had already gone in, and there was no one in line. The Borghese gallery has one of the loveliest interiors of any building that I have ever seen. The marble walls and floors are works of art themselves and are stunningly beautiful. The sculptures were absolutely incredible, especially Daphne and Apollo and best of all, The Rape of Prosperina. Both are here on this page, have a look: http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/b/ber...sculptur/1620/
and here is a close up of Prosperina: http://www.mmdtkw.org/RenRom0726-BerniniProspPlut.jpg I, too, would return to Rome just to see these works and the interior of the Borghese gallery again and again and again. |
That close up site of Prosperina above is a little confusing. Try this:
http://www.mmdtkw.org/RenRom0726-BerniniProspPlut.jpg |
The thirteen-year closure of the Borghese was very controversial, especially in the art world. The Italian intrigue behind that story warrants a book. Thirteen years is a very long time to remain out of the tourist loop, especially with a collection this powerful and profound.
I'm not surprised some guide books turned their backs on the Borghese and haven't bothered to seek new love. But guide books are mere guides and all too often come in new packaging, with pretty new pictures, but remain uninspired while continuing to churn out the expectations of the status quo. Guide books are no substitute for an art historian with great taste which Rick Steves will never be. I went to the grand opening of the Borghese Gallery in June of '97 and the memory of that joyous occasion is strong and still brings me much joy. Every time I walk into the Borghese, I'm reminded of the thirteen years of life I lived without this special place. Every time I'm in the presence of Bernini's talent, I cry. I never meant to put 111op on the defensive and nor do I ever wish to pit one great museum against another. I LOVE them all. Visitors to Rome can only absorb so much in a restricted amount of time. It took several lifetimes, if not much longer, to create some of the art in Italy's collections. What quality of study and appreciation can you possibly hope to acquire in five days or less? Much like many of the pieces in Italy's collections, the desire to visit any museum is priceless. |
During our six-week sojourn throughout Italy, we saw lots of art. Lots of famous art. I think the Bernini sculptures in the Borghese were the most moving pieces of art from the whole trip, for me (and I'm not generally a big fan of sculpture).
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Well it'll be interesting to hear what crystal decides. I'm interested in hearing what else is on the itinerary.
There's no accounting for tastes obviously, but I just find some of this hyperbole amusing (and, at worst, disturbing). Obviously a tourist in a rush has to drop something. If it came to down to a decision between the Vatican and the Borghese for a very first trip and time is just too limited, would anyone say, go to the Borghese? Certainly not me. But if the original poster is, for some reason, interested in baroque sculpture, then perhaps the decision will be different. But then, I suspect that an art connoisseur would know what (s)he wants to see in a place like Rome. |
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