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Reggio Emilia as Home Base?
We are going to Emilia Romagna. Trying to choose between Bologna or Reggio Emilia for a home base. Using public transit. Hope to go to the sea and Parma and Modena. I have a friend who has just visited Bologna and wasn't that impressed. I have read good things about Reggio Emilia as a smaller and perhaps easier city to visit. I'm wondering about the ease of the rail travel. All insights appreciated. |
Bologna has many vocal fans on this forum. I'm not exactly one of them but have to admit there is a lot to see/do there. Reggio Emilia appeals to me more because I could actually imagine living there. But for a sightseeing/vacation base, I think the choice is up to you and your plans. How many days/nights will you be there?
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You'll travel through Bologna just about every trip out. I'd go for Bologna as a base even though I prefer Ferrara to visit.
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If you pick Reggio nell'Emilia, you won't go through Bologna to visit Parma or Modena (or Mantova if that interests you).
Although both are cities, Bologna feels much more like a city than Reggio nell'Emilia, with both its positive and negative aspects: There is much more to do and experience inside Bologna if you are interested in history and the arts, or want a variety of shopping and food-related experiences. But if you don't like bustle, traffic, noise, higher prices, then you might prefer the much more tranquil Reggio nell'Emilia, which is well located for the day trips you mention and even has a high speed train stop, like Bologna. Colorful Parma is arguably prettier and definitely more lively than the pleasantly handsome and atmospheric Reggio nell'Emilia -- but if you stay that far west then your choices for day trips are radically different (although interesting, since you can go into charming parts of Tuscany) as opposed to staying in Bologna. From Bologna, it's much easier to visit Ravenna, which for many people who value art and history is one of the great highlights of a visit to Italy. If you like to bicycle, either Ferrara or Modena can be fabulous (and Modena has one of the most beautiful food markets in the region if that's the top of your list). I can imagine living in any of the cities I've mentioned with the exception of Ferrara (too muggy and dungeon-dominated for me, although the food is fascinating). For me personally, I might pick Modena as a base, for it's easy connections to other places, including the train north to Mantova through Carpi, etc). But if I wanted the thrill of being in an economically solid, historic Italian small city with beautiful food and architecture and near ZERO tourists, hard to beat Reggio nell'Emilia for that kind of memorable thrill. |
We spent a week in Reggio nell'Emilia about 10 years ago, and really enjoyed every minute. We did have a car, which made day trips to Parma, Modena, Bologna, and Ravenna so much easier. I was also not impressed with Bologna, because it was too much of a city for me. Parma and Ravenna were the highlights of that trip to us.
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Parma, Modena, Reggio, Bologna
Given your question, I'd choose Reggio over Bologna simply due to size. Bologna is a big city and it feels big: Reggio is much smaller and rather cozy. However, overall I'd choose Parma which is prettier, has more landmarks, and easier rail and road access to the sea you'd like to visit. 2nd choice Modena.
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We stayed 4 nights in Reggio Emilia in 2012 and loved it. We did day trips by train to Bologna and Modena but ran out of time to get to Parma or Brisighella. We had a car, so spent one day driving around the countryside to places like Castello Torrechiara, where we had a nice lunch. We stayed at Hotel Posta (a nice 15 minute walk from the train station) which we really enjoyed. The front desk arranged a dinner and balsamic tour at their Agriturismo Cavazzone as well as a tour of a parmigianno-reggiano cheese factory (needed the car to get to these but a taxi might work). We saw a famous pianist perform at the beautiful opera house, Teatro Valli. The restaurants were good, especially Ristorante Canossa that had local specialties like tortellini in broth and an interesting meat trolley that came around for the secondi. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this friendly town for a home base.
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My husband and I spent a week in an apartment in RE in late April.
Here's a link to the first blog post I made that week: Short and Sweet ? Keep Your Feet in the Street I found it a really nice, low key base with great transportation. Ask away if you have other questions. |
I have visied all those places by train from various bases and trains are so frequent and go everywhere - these are mainly regional trains where best to buy tickets, dirt cheap, at stations as you go. Same price as buying online I believe- flat fare no seat reservations even possible- first class is also very cheap and for regional trains that have first class may be a great deal on crowded trains - anyway for loads on Italian trains in this area and anywhere check www.trenitalia.com; www.seat61.com- great info on discounted tickets you can score to take faster trains if booked (in stone) long in advance to get those limited in number discounted tickets; BETS-European Rail Experts and www.ricksteves.com.
I especially like Parma and Mantua and really all towns I saw including Cremona and Pavia - Bologna is certainly worth a day trip or two and as bilbo said often have to transit Bologna when taking train. |
Jangita hanks for your insight and blog. I'm enjoying your report and I have decided Reggio Emelia will be just our type of place to "call home" for a week.
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I realize I'm a little late to this party. However, my wife and I spent a week near RE four years ago. We stayed at an agriturismo a few minutes drive from RE near Scandiano. The couple, Anna and Maurizio, who own it are wonderful people. Maurizio makes his own balsamic vinegar and allowed us to sample several years from the casks so we could taste how it matures over time. Anna is a phenomenal cook and served up wonderful breakfasts. She also took us on a tour of a nearby parmigiano-reggiano maker where the owner and his sons do everything by hand. Getting in and out of RE to the train station was a cinch and there's an underground parking lot across from the railway station. If interested you can find Anna and Maurizio at Agriturismo REGGIO EMILIA - "Bosco del Fracasso" - Agriturismo Scandiano - B&B in the heart of Emilia Romagna- a hotel in the countryside of REGGIO EMILIA -
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Either would be great for a rail base - regional trains go everywhere and beauty of them is they are flat-fare with no seat reservations even possible so just buy for same price at station as online - full flexibility to decide where to go when you want - avoid faster trains unless going farther afield and then book in advance at Acquista il biglietto con le nostre offerte - Trenitalia - but regional trains are dirt cheap faster trains much more expensive. For lots on Italian trains and where to go in that area check www.seat61.com; BETS-European Rail Experts and www.ricksteves.com. Bologna to me is a fascinating city - be sure to visit but I understand desire for smaller town but Bologna to me was awesome.
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Revisiting this thread with an eye towards late November, 2019.
Other than a few days stay in a hotel in Bologna, I have not visited ER in recent past. This visit would likely be in mid or late November. I think two weeks would be the probable time frame. For sure would like to visit Modena, and probably Parma, where I stayed for a few days so long ago I remember very little. Just hoping you all can advise me on a great place to stay with access to trains to other nearby towns and cities...it would be great not to have to rent a car. Interests are food and just wandering around and relaxing. Just returned from Le Marche, Abruzzo and Rome and am keen to return as soon as possible! |
We just spent five nights at a great Air BnB (a first for me) in Bologna. Took train day trips to Padova and Ravenna. All four of us loved Bologna (and its food). I definitely will return.
((H)) |
"The" place to stay in Parma is Palazzo della Rosso Prati. It is perfectly located just on the Piazza Duomo.
If you would like the link the the apartment we stayed, in Reggio Emilia I can provide it. In Modena, we have twice stayed for short visits in the Cervetta5 Hotel Cervetta 5 Modena | A Modena, in centro storico which is extrememly well located for the market, Hostaria Giusti, the shops of via Emilia, the Duomo etc. If you would like more details about any of the above properties, I can probably remember a whole lot more. |
Jangita I spent about two hours yesterday reading about your Italian adventures on your blog. I love your style!
I'd love any recommendations for accommodations in ER, and details about them, if they are not already in the blog. The hotel in Modena sounds perfect. We usually stay in hotels but I would not mind an apartment so I could cook a few dishes from the great market selections! |
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