Reeder

We have been back from our 16 night Italian adventure since March 25th and am just getting around to starting this report! Shame on me--but better late than never. I did keep a daily journal which will help my aging memory quite a bit. We left Southbury Connecticut on the Connecticut Limo(which is generally a bus ride)--just sounds spiffy heading for JFK. At the start I should mention this might not be our option on future big trips like this. Waiting for "the ct limo" on return was an hour and the ride took over four hours as we stopped at LaGuardia also and made three stops in NY state before entering Ct.(This trip should have been 2.5 hours max) Next time it will be nice to have one of those men standing there with our name on a card and be whisked off!!!! Our Delta flight was fine and uneventful. We arrived Rome about 8:30 am , rented our car (a Renault Scenic 4 door) and were off to find Baschi Italy in Umbria. We found our way to A-1 and made it to our first stop Baschi in 1.5 hours or more. Found our way to Torre Vecchio on 800 acres, long horns, farming fruits and veggies etc. It was a very scenic farm amidst the Umbrian hills. Not many people around off season and the buildings on this agritourismo (I used both Karen Brown books for our stay and went exclusively with places she recommends. We have used her in Ireland and France in the past quite exclusively. We find the places exactly as she has described) To repeat the building were quite spread out and we found ourselves lost on this farm more than once.. There seemed to be miles of dirt roads on this property. We had a one bedroom apartment which was out of the history/picture books. Kitchen was simple , old fashioned had a large fireplace , good size bathroom and large bedroom with queen bed. It iwas in an old building made of stone and brick. I thought it would be a cool place to stay in the hot summer days--literally cool. We went to lunch in Orvieto which this place is just a few miles south of and had a tasting lunch at a restaurant Rick Steeves recommended called Patrizio's. We had many courses, small amounts, of what was described a true Umbrian cooking. They were quite nice to us. However you must understand we are there at what for us was 6 am on no sleep so really unfair to judge this restaurant. The zuppa was good and the antipasto. I wasn't too sure about the raviolini stuffed with rabbit or the duck course. I tried it all but didn't finish much. John had a very BIG lunch as result. Dessert was very good and with house wine $72 E. (this was to be our most expensive lunch of the entire trip and we could have eaten most satisfactorily here for much less. Jet lag ordering let's call it!) We came back to our apartment--made a fire to warm us up and took a nice nap. Dinner was at 8 and we got lost finding the dining room. They came out to rescue us. Thisis when we found out we were the only guests. Danieli and her husband Pablo? greeeted us wamrly and joined us for dinner which Danieli had prepared. They shared their homemade white and red wine and even a superlative homemade cherry grappa after dinner made from the leaves of ripe cherries. For us the meal tasted delicious-various brushetta, pasta Mingherlini (their surname), pasta with meat sauce, beef and broccoli rabe and zuppa englesa for dessert, expresso etc etc. This is the best part. Both were warm , friendly,interested and interesting. They practiced their English on us and we tried our hand at Italian with them. Somehow it worked out well and we had a wonderful warm eening--just what we were hoping for! We were both glowing as we headed back to our apartment saying "What a wonderful way to start our trip!" Next morning I was up before John (not a normal occurence) and very cold!!I started a fire and made expresso actually cafe latte and read my boook until sleeping beauty woke up. The deal here at this farm is to make your own breakfast and they provide the fixins., cereal, milk, cookies, jam and crackers and juice. We were packed and off by 9 am. It was sort of chilly and rainy. We did well finding our way to Todi and Spoleto (hilltop towns but we bravely drove up and around them) Todi is smaller and very charming. We then went up to Monteflaco and parked in the square. We did some wine tasting at a great enoteca right in the square.It is called L'Alchimista. Guy was very nice and also very generous with samples. We tried at least four Montefalco reds and others. They put out proscuitti and bread just for us and we felt as though we were at a party! We bought two bottles of wine there (we felt we had to) and browsed some of the shops in the square. They had a great shop for cloth napkins, table cloths etc (made in Montefalco I believe) I ended up with two finger towels with bees on them. (I collect bee things for a special reason) We then went to Bevagna another charming town but we walked this town. Karen Brown recommends an inn and restaurant there but it had not opened for the season yet. We just went down the street to an osteria (Osteria del Podesta) and had a nice lunch. The antipasto was sensational and huge to share. They gave us complimentary glasses of Prosecco. Yum!! It was my first experience with this delicious bubbly and NOT my last! John had raviolitini in red wine sauce which he loved. I just had a vegetable terrine side dish. With house wine bill was $32.E. A nice place. We alked the town a bit thru the residential area and found ourselves curious about wha t the residences looked inside and what their lives are really like in a medieval town. We then found our way to Bettona our destination for the next two nights. While our stay was on an agriturismo outside of town we stopped into the medieval town of Bettona to check it out. I wanted to email the kids and asked a man on the street(Carmine) where there was an internet shop or whatever. He said there were none in the town but we could use his in town hall. He was the zoning officer. I set about my task of writing chatty email to the kids of our adventures (I can be verbose) while John was TRYING to communicate with this man who had no English whatsoever. My husband has absolutely no Italian. It was hard for me to concentrate as I was laughing so hard from the background conversation I almost wet my pants. Somehow though they got maps out and talked "zoning" and seemed to communicate. I wish I could say the same for my long email which never arrived back here???? We then found our way to Torre Burchio, sort of a ranch-- B&B on 1500 acres. Talk about miles of road to get there??? Incredible --up high and just gorgeous country. Driving up you can see Assissi in the distance on a clear day. The sun is out now and weather really getting nice which is to continue throughout our tip until we finish in Venice !! Yeh!! We were warmly greeted here and enjoyed the capuccino and biscotti they served us on arrival. Our room was in a separate building (motel like but not really) across from dining room and main office with great views of the hills. Our room was large comfortable with vaulted ceilings. We took a much needed delicious and went to dinner at 8. (Note here: wnere possible we took half board so we could try the foods of the farm and hopefully really meet the people) Our dinner was a five course affair, quite good with bruschetta, two past courses (gnocchil and a cheese and proscuitti pasta) then pork and spinach and dessert pls their house wine and water. We hit the rack and were up early for brakfast shich consisted of capuccino,water, cereals, jams, honey and two pastries, juice etc. More than enough. (Buffet style) Then off the 7 km to the main road and Assissi. We are absolutely loved the scenery here. The hills, farms, and green everywhere with snow capped mountains in the background are spectacular!! We are finding our way around quite nicely on the backroads! Next report startsin Assissi! Helen

BTilke

Whoa Nelly! Helen, thank you for the trip report and it's very interesting, but it is REALLY REALLY hard to read! Would you be able to repost this with some paragraph breaks in there? If not (or maybe some kind Fodorite will do it for you), could you please put some paragraph breaks and more spaces in your next post?

Reeder

I have writer's (typist) cramp and you want me to give you paragraphs? I will try on the many many more sections I have yet to write on this report. Just curious--why do paragraphs make my words more palatable? H

Betsy

Yee-ikes! Oh PLEASE give us paragraphs! I LOVE reading trip reports, but the thoughts of trying to read this one make me dizzy! Reeder, try to read your own report as it's now formatted. After a few left to right, left to right, left to rights without breaks, it becomes almost impossible to track the lines.

Reeder

Okay guys--you are killing me here! PARAGRAPHS IT WILL BE!! HELEN


We have been back from our 16 night Italian adventure since March 25th and am just getting around to starting this report! Shame on me--but better late than never!? I did keep a daily journal which will help my aging memory quite a bit.

We left Southbury Connecticut on the Connecticut Limo(which is generally a bus ride)--just sounds spiffy heading for JFK. At the start I should mention this might not be our option on future big trips like this. Waiting for "the ct limo" on return was an hour and the ride took over four hours as we stopped at LaGuardia also and made three stops in NY state before entering Ct.(This trip should have been 2.5 hours max) Next time it will be nice to have one of those men standing there with our name on a card and be whisked off!!!!

Our Delta flight was direct , fine and uneventful. We arrived Rome about 8:30 am , rented our car (a Renault Scenic 4 door) and were off to find Baschi Italy in Umbria. We found our way to A-1 and made it to our first stop Baschi in 1.5 hours or more. Found our way to Torre Vecchio on 800 acres, long horns, farming( fruits and veggies etc). It was a very scenic farm amidst the Umbrian hills. Not many people around off season and the buildings on this agritourismo (I used both Karen Brown books for our stay and went exclusively with places she recommends. We have used her in Ireland and France in the past quite successfully.. We find the places exactly as she has described)

To repeat the buildings were quite spread out and we found ourselves lost on this farm more than once.. There seemed to be miles of dirt roads on this property. We had a one bedroom apartment which was out of the history/picture books. Kitchen was simple , old fashioned had a large fireplace , good size bathroom and large bedroom with queen bed. It iwas in an old building made of stone and brick. I thought it would be a cool place to stay in the hot summer days--literally cool. We went to lunch in Orvieto which this place is just a few miles south of and had a tasting lunch at a restaurant Rick Steeves recommended called Patrizio's. We had many courses, small amounts, of what was described a true Umbrian cooking. They were quite nice to us. However you must understand we are there at what for us was 6 am on no sleep so really unfair to judge this restaurant. The zuppa was good and the antipasto. I wasn't too sure about the raviolini stuffed with rabbit or the duck course. I tried it all but didn't finish much. John had a very BIG lunch as result. Dessert was very good and with house wine $72 E. (this was to be our most expensive lunch of the entire trip and we could have eaten most satisfactorily here for much less. Jet lag ordering let's call it!)

We came back to our apartment--made a fire to warm us up and took a nice nap. Dinner was at 8 and we got lost finding the dining room. They came out to rescue us. This is when we found out we were the only guests. Danieli and her husband Pablo? greeted us warmly and joined us for dinner which Danieli had prepared. They shared their homemade white and red wine and even a superlative homemade cherry grappa after dinner made from the leaves of ripe cherries. For us the meal tasted delicious-various brushetta, pasta Mingherlini (their surname), pasta with meat sauce, beef and broccoli rabe and zuppa englesa for dessert, expresso etc etc.
This is the best part. Both were warm , friendly, interested and interesting. They practiced their English on us and we tried our hand at Italian with them. Somehow it worked out well and we had a wonderful warm evening--just what we were hoping for! We were both glowing as we headed back to our apartment saying "What a wonderful way to start our trip!"

Next morning I was up before John (not a normal occurence) and very cold!!I started a fire and made expresso actually cafe latte and read my book until sleeping beauty woke up. The deal here at this farm is to make your own breakfast and they provide the fixins., cereal, milk, cookies, jam and crackers and juice. It was ample and we liked actually sharing the fire and views on our own. We were packed and off by 9 am.

It was sort of chilly and rainy. We did well finding our way to Todi and Spoleto (hilltop towns but we bravely drove up and around them) Todi is smaller and very charming. We then went up to Monteflaco and parked in the square. We did some wine tasting at a great enoteca right in the square.It is called L'Alchimista. Guy was very nice and also very generous with samples. We tried at least four Montefalco reds and others. They put out proscuitti and bread just for us and we felt as though we were at a party! We bought two bottles of wine there (we felt we had to) and browsed some of the shops in the square.
They had a great shop for cloth napkins, table cloths etc (made in Montefalco I believe) I ended up with two finger towels with bees on them. (I collect bee things for a special reason)

We then went to Bevagna another charming town but we walked this town. Karen Brown recommends an inn and restaurant there but it had not opened for the season yet. We just went down the street to an osteria (Osteria del Podesta) and had a nice lunch. The antipasto was sensational and huge to share. They gave us complimentary glasses of Prosecco. Yum!! It was my first experience with this delicious bubbly and NOT my last! John had raviolitini in red wine sauce which he loved. I just had a vegetable terrine side dish. With house wine bill was $32.E. A nice place. We walked the town a bit thru the residential area and found ourselves curious about wha t the residences looked inside and what their lives are really like in a medieval town.

We then found our way to Bettona our destination for the next two nights. While our stay was on an agriturismo outside of town we stopped into the medieval town of Bettona to check it out. I wanted to email the kids and asked a man on the street(Carmine) where there was an internet shop or whatever. He said there were none in the town but we could use his in town hall. He was the zoning officer. I set about my task of writing chatty email to the kids of our adventures (I can be verbose) while John was TRYING to communicate with this man who had no English whatsoever. My husband has absolutely no Italian. It was hard for me to concentrate as I was laughing so hard from the background conversation I almost wet my pants. Somehow though they got maps out and talked "zoning" and seemed to communicate. I wish I could say the same for my long email which never arrived back here????

We then found our way to Torre Burchio, sort of a ranch-- B&B on 1500 acres. Talk about miles of road to get there??? Incredible --up high and just gorgeous country. Driving up you can see Assisi in the distance on a clear day. The sun is out now and weather really getting nice which is to continue throughout our tip until we finish in Venice !! Yeh!!

We were warmly greeted here and enjoyed the capuccino and biscotti they served us on arrival. Our room was in a separate building (motel like but not really) across from dining room and main office with great views of the hills. Our room was large comfortable with vaulted ceilings. We took a much needed delicious and went to dinner at 8. (Note here: wnere possible we took half board so we could try the foods of the farm and hopefully really meet the people) Our dinner was a five course affair, quite good with bruschetta, two pasta courses (gnocchil and a cheese and proscuitti pasta) then pork and spinach and dessert pls their house wine and water. We hit the rack and were up early for brakfast which consisted of capuccino,water, cereals, jams, honey and two pastries, juice etc. More than enough. (Buffet style)

Then off the 7 km to the main road and Assissi. We are absolutely loved the scenery here. The hills, farms, and green everywhere with snow capped mountains in the background are spectacular!! We are finding our way around quite nicely on the backroads! Next report starts in Assisi! Helen

awbaker

Thanks for reposting with the paragraph breaks, Helen. I look forward to more of your report.

mvor

Helen,

I'm really enjoying your report, thanks. Since you love bees, have you read "The Secret Lives of Bees" by Sue Monk Kidd? If not, I think you'd enjoy it.

BTW, we live in Fairfield, and always spring for car service; it makes the trip so much easier, especially coming home.

I can't wait to hear more.

Maureen

Reeder

Maureen--Thanks and I absolutely LOVED that book. More coming tomorrow hopefully and "with paragraphs" h

i_am_kane

I'm enjoying your trip report Reeder. I live in Trumbull. Next time call a limo service (as we have done the past two trips to JFK-to-Italy). It makes a huge difference. Thumbs down to Connecticut Limo.

I look forward to your next posting.

Betsy

Ahh...thanks SO much for the paragraphs! Waiting for your next installment!

Another recommendation for "The Secret Life of Bees."

ira

Hi Helen,

Thank you for the paragraphs. A full page of text without breaks makes my eyes go out focus, and I have to stop reading.

Lovely report.

In case you are planning on posting each portion of your report as a separate thread, I suggest that you keep it all together.

It's easier to follow.

Reeder

Sorry !! I went with you on the paragraphs but the repors as lengthy as they are are coming one by one like it or not? H

Reeder

By the way Report Number Two has been posted today. H

ira

Dear Helen,

You may, of course, do what you wish, but it took some effort to find report number two.

Why is it more difficult to add to your original report than it is to start a new thread?

Why did you post part 2 twice?

If you can't find your threads, just click on your name. They will appear in the left-hand pane.

Reeder

Ira:
You are one PITA!!! in my book. If it is too much trouble to find it forget it someone else will do their report EXACTLY as you desire I am sure.
(For some reason for your information I DO KNOW about putting my name in but the reports especially number two do NOT come up) Why not put in Reeder yourself and see what you get. Perhaps because it doesn't work you may have had a hard time finding it. Look--I do have a life here and DO want to share our experiences with everyone. It does take me a bit of time as I want to be as thorough as I can be. STOP nitpicking okay?

ira

My goodness,

Someone is certainly in a bad mood today.

cotogal

Helen,
I loved reading about your adventure. I will be flying into Rome and renting a car, heading to Umbria.

Could you give me some information on how you decided on your rental car.

How did you decide on the Renault? Do you have information you could share with me?

Was it difficult to drive from Rome?

Any information you could share with me would be great.

Thank you,
Chris - cotogal

Huitres

Reeder...nice trip report. Sounds like you enjoyed a lot of wonderful meals with equally great wines. What is what Italy is about! My friends use the Karen Brown guides exclusively too and have been very pleased with her recommendations in France. I am happy to hear her places were on the mark in Italy too.

Since you collect bee things, I suggest a trip to the charming island of Elba the next time you are in Italy. The bee design was a special insignia of Napoleon's and he even created his own flag with bees on it. There are numerous towels, prints, purses, etc that you can purchase there all with his familiar bee design. I have several bee towels and a key chain and love them!

Reeder

Huitres:
Thanks so much for the bee tip. I will get there someday but in the interim will check out info on Elba and see what I can find online. I'll tell you my "bee" story someday as well. H

Reeder

Cotogal:
I think it is AutoEurope and I rent it here. Go to KarenBrown.com and if you use her code (on site) can get another 10% discount. They seem to be like a broker and give you the best rate going from among all the car rental companies. I called heir 800 number and made my reservations calling them back weekly looking for even better deals (which I did find once) The Renault we got was a two car upgrade (free) for us as they were out of the car we rented. Hope this helps. H ps We liked this rental car a lot. Enough trunk to ide our luggage when in transit and a comfortable ride.