"Red? or White?" My trip to Venice, Lake Como, Milan
May 31st, 2005, 11:46 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"Red? or White?" My trip to Venice, Lake Como, Milan
To ALL the MANY posters whose wise and generous advice made this trip report possible, I am very grateful and truly in your debt.
This reminds me that among the numerous, well-informed contributors, there are some regular posters with special expertise concerning travel to Italy. Everyday the same questions are asked and these regular posters continue to give their same answers in a tireless and good-natured way even though it must be tedious at times.
This information includes but is not limited to:
Everything you ever wanted to know about Trenitalia
SIMS, tribands, quadbands
Malpensa Express
Reservation phone #'s for Uffizi, Borghese, Accademia, Last Supper
"THE BEST..."
"THE MOST ROMANTIC..."
How to drive
Where to eat
Where to stay
What to say
How to pay
These efforts are NOT going unappreciated.
My sincerest THANK YOU goes to ALL contributors. Over the past few years this shared knowledge has literally opened up a new world to me.
On our most recent trip we spent 8 wonderful nights in Italy: 4 nights in Venice, 3 nights in Varenna on Lake Como, and one night near Milan.
This trip also gave me a chance to do some advanced personal research into the differences in my reactions to wine in Europe vs. wine in the USA.
After no more than 2 sips of wine at home, I feel a great fog overtaking my brain, as if I have been given a very strong sedative. On past trips,I've noticed that wine in Europe does not have this effect on me.
This trip would give me an opportunity to re-confirm my reactions.
This reminds me that among the numerous, well-informed contributors, there are some regular posters with special expertise concerning travel to Italy. Everyday the same questions are asked and these regular posters continue to give their same answers in a tireless and good-natured way even though it must be tedious at times.
This information includes but is not limited to:
Everything you ever wanted to know about Trenitalia
SIMS, tribands, quadbands
Malpensa Express
Reservation phone #'s for Uffizi, Borghese, Accademia, Last Supper
"THE BEST..."
"THE MOST ROMANTIC..."
How to drive
Where to eat
Where to stay
What to say
How to pay
These efforts are NOT going unappreciated.
My sincerest THANK YOU goes to ALL contributors. Over the past few years this shared knowledge has literally opened up a new world to me.
On our most recent trip we spent 8 wonderful nights in Italy: 4 nights in Venice, 3 nights in Varenna on Lake Como, and one night near Milan.
This trip also gave me a chance to do some advanced personal research into the differences in my reactions to wine in Europe vs. wine in the USA.
After no more than 2 sips of wine at home, I feel a great fog overtaking my brain, as if I have been given a very strong sedative. On past trips,I've noticed that wine in Europe does not have this effect on me.
This trip would give me an opportunity to re-confirm my reactions.
May 31st, 2005, 11:53 AM
#2
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
FLIGHTS:
Air France: Miami to Paris; Paris to Venice
Alitalia: Milan to Miami
I've always considered the flight a necessary ordeal in order to get to my vacation. I don't care about the food and I just hope for an efficient and professional crew. My main concern is that the airline delivers me to my destination safely and in a somewhat timely manner. Whenever I feel like whining about the flight, I try to remind myself about how long it took Christopher Columbus to cross the ocean.
Airline Food: I never touch it. I always bring my own. And I've discovered that "gourmet" chocolate chip cookies...the SOFT kind...lots of them..can brighten up (almost) any flight. And we bring our own carefully wrapped blueberry muffins and bagels for breakfast the next morning.
RETURN flight first: We had no problem with Alitalia. We arrived on time. The crew was polite and professional. I would have to say, however, that the meal that was served was just about the second worst I've ever seen in the air (the worst being on Air Portugal). But I had bought nice sandwiches and cookies at the airport in Milan, so this did not concern me.
Air France: Miami to Paris; Paris to Venice
Alitalia: Milan to Miami
I've always considered the flight a necessary ordeal in order to get to my vacation. I don't care about the food and I just hope for an efficient and professional crew. My main concern is that the airline delivers me to my destination safely and in a somewhat timely manner. Whenever I feel like whining about the flight, I try to remind myself about how long it took Christopher Columbus to cross the ocean.
Airline Food: I never touch it. I always bring my own. And I've discovered that "gourmet" chocolate chip cookies...the SOFT kind...lots of them..can brighten up (almost) any flight. And we bring our own carefully wrapped blueberry muffins and bagels for breakfast the next morning.
RETURN flight first: We had no problem with Alitalia. We arrived on time. The crew was polite and professional. I would have to say, however, that the meal that was served was just about the second worst I've ever seen in the air (the worst being on Air Portugal). But I had bought nice sandwiches and cookies at the airport in Milan, so this did not concern me.
May 31st, 2005, 11:58 AM
#3
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 45,322
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi suntravler, yes Alitalia no long does anything for the reputation of their Italy's wonderful food, do they?
Interesting comment on the wine in Italy. My DH always said that. And my SIL (who is from Italy) cannot drink the red wine here (US) but he never had a problem in Italy. It is interesting.
Looking forward to the rest of your report. And which wine you liked best.
Interesting comment on the wine in Italy. My DH always said that. And my SIL (who is from Italy) cannot drink the red wine here (US) but he never had a problem in Italy. It is interesting.
Looking forward to the rest of your report. And which wine you liked best.
May 31st, 2005, 12:07 PM
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Air FRance: We had FF tickets through Delta and we usually start out our trips on this same flight from Miami to Paris and make connections there. We have done this several times and have always made our connecting flight, sometimes with only an hour in between flights. This time we had 2 hours between flights. But sooner or later our luck had to run out.
The day we left I must have called Air France about 4 times, checking that the flight would be on time. When I called the 4th time, I never expected to hear that we would be leaving 2 hours late because the plane was arriving in Miami 2 hours late. Not only would we miss our connection to Venice, but the only time they could confirm us on a flight to Venice wasn't until 9 PM...11 hours later than planned, getting us to Venice at almost midnight.
I immediately got on 2 phones and the internet to see if there wasn't some better way to reschedule. But since we had FF tickets, we were at the bottom of the list of passengers needing help.
As we left for the airport, I grabbed an old Paris guidebook I had around the house thinking that this day could bring interesting possibilities! (Make a lemon into lemonade.)
After much discussion with ticket agents and supervisors, I was led to believe that we had an excellent chance of getting on an earlier flight to Venice once we were in Paris.
To make this long story short, I'll just say we had the choice of enjoying a few hours in Paris and leaving for Venice on the confirmed 9 PM flight or hanging around the airport hoping for an earlier flight.
Sometimes it is hard to switch gears when you have your heart and mind set on a particular goal. We were traveling with carry-on luggage which gave us a lot of flexibiity. Air France reps kept telling us to hang around, "don't go anyplace", leading us to believe we might get on the next flight...there are always no-shows.
Unfortunately, we never did get on an earlier flight and wasted a whole day in the airport when we could have been enjoying a few hours in Paris. What a shame and waste of a day.
When we were finally awarded those highly prized boarding passes for the 9 PM flight, we lined up for boarding. As I gave the gate agent my boarding pass, he put it in his little machine and then told me to step aside. All I could think of was "WHAT NOW?" and I pictured ourselves having to sleep at the airport.
Instead, he replaced my boarding card with a new one. As a small consolation for our lost day, we had been upgraded to Business Class for the 2-hour flight to Venice.
If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't have bothered trying to get an earlier flight. I would have considered it a gift to have a few unexpected hours in Paris. But I like to believe there are no mistakes in life...only learning opportunities.
The day we left I must have called Air France about 4 times, checking that the flight would be on time. When I called the 4th time, I never expected to hear that we would be leaving 2 hours late because the plane was arriving in Miami 2 hours late. Not only would we miss our connection to Venice, but the only time they could confirm us on a flight to Venice wasn't until 9 PM...11 hours later than planned, getting us to Venice at almost midnight.
I immediately got on 2 phones and the internet to see if there wasn't some better way to reschedule. But since we had FF tickets, we were at the bottom of the list of passengers needing help.
As we left for the airport, I grabbed an old Paris guidebook I had around the house thinking that this day could bring interesting possibilities! (Make a lemon into lemonade.)
After much discussion with ticket agents and supervisors, I was led to believe that we had an excellent chance of getting on an earlier flight to Venice once we were in Paris.
To make this long story short, I'll just say we had the choice of enjoying a few hours in Paris and leaving for Venice on the confirmed 9 PM flight or hanging around the airport hoping for an earlier flight.
Sometimes it is hard to switch gears when you have your heart and mind set on a particular goal. We were traveling with carry-on luggage which gave us a lot of flexibiity. Air France reps kept telling us to hang around, "don't go anyplace", leading us to believe we might get on the next flight...there are always no-shows.
Unfortunately, we never did get on an earlier flight and wasted a whole day in the airport when we could have been enjoying a few hours in Paris. What a shame and waste of a day.
When we were finally awarded those highly prized boarding passes for the 9 PM flight, we lined up for boarding. As I gave the gate agent my boarding pass, he put it in his little machine and then told me to step aside. All I could think of was "WHAT NOW?" and I pictured ourselves having to sleep at the airport.
Instead, he replaced my boarding card with a new one. As a small consolation for our lost day, we had been upgraded to Business Class for the 2-hour flight to Venice.
If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't have bothered trying to get an earlier flight. I would have considered it a gift to have a few unexpected hours in Paris. But I like to believe there are no mistakes in life...only learning opportunities.
May 31st, 2005, 12:16 PM
#5
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,699
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi sun,
I hope your trip improves.
>After no more than 2 sips of wine at home, I feel a great fog overtaking my brain, as if I have been given a very strong sedative. On past trips,I've noticed that wine in Europe does not have this effect on me.<
Lower sulfites and, often, lower alcohol.
I hope your trip improves.
>After no more than 2 sips of wine at home, I feel a great fog overtaking my brain, as if I have been given a very strong sedative. On past trips,I've noticed that wine in Europe does not have this effect on me.<
Lower sulfites and, often, lower alcohol.
May 31st, 2005, 12:19 PM
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HOTELS:
Venice: LOCANDA ORSEOLO
Varenna: ALBERGO MILANO
Malpensa: (outside of Milan): FIRST HOTEL MALPENSA (not my first choice but everything else was booked.)
VENICE: LOCANDA ORSEOLO:
I have just received the statement from the CC company. And never have I been so pleased to pay a bill. In fact, I think I will keep a copy of it in my photo album, along with other treasured mementos of my trip, because EVERYTHING about my trip brings back super memories. Our stay at Locanda Orseolo was a joy...which even extends to paying the bill.
I had hoped to book a room at one of the Venice hotels regularly recommended on this MB. But as far back as July 2004, they were ALL BOOKED UP for the end of April 2005! After more research I came across the name of LOCANDA ORSEOLO.
I was a bit hesitant because there wasn't much information about it. And it was located right outside of Piazza San Marco, which I thought might be too congested. But the little information that was available was very positive.
Having my other hotel choices booked up was the luckiest thing that could have happened. The family that owns the 12-room Locanda Orseolo is ENORMOUSLY welcoming. The hotel is steps away from Piazza San Marco but located in a quiet and private courtyard. The inside is all recently refurbished in excellent taste and very well maintained.
We had 2 nice rooms...bedroom and sitting area...with large windows overlooking a narrow canal. The bathroom with shower was all very modern.
The best part was the hospitality that is extended to guests. In fact, my DH began referring to the owners and staff as the "Ciao-Team". Whether we were coming or going, they always greeted us with an enthusiastic and cheerful "CIAO" with our first names always remembered!
Other notes about this place report that you are treated like family...and it is all true. And I don't think you wil find another place that offers such an excellent breakfast. In addition to the usual cold breakfast buffet, Matteo, the owner, cooks eggs and omelets to order. Barbara, his pretty and charming wife, presides over the elegant breakfast room making sure that you are well fed before your day of sightseeing.
These people love what they do and it shows. Staying at Locanda Orseolo made our visit to Venice especially memorable.
Venice: LOCANDA ORSEOLO
Varenna: ALBERGO MILANO
Malpensa: (outside of Milan): FIRST HOTEL MALPENSA (not my first choice but everything else was booked.)
VENICE: LOCANDA ORSEOLO:
I have just received the statement from the CC company. And never have I been so pleased to pay a bill. In fact, I think I will keep a copy of it in my photo album, along with other treasured mementos of my trip, because EVERYTHING about my trip brings back super memories. Our stay at Locanda Orseolo was a joy...which even extends to paying the bill.
I had hoped to book a room at one of the Venice hotels regularly recommended on this MB. But as far back as July 2004, they were ALL BOOKED UP for the end of April 2005! After more research I came across the name of LOCANDA ORSEOLO.
I was a bit hesitant because there wasn't much information about it. And it was located right outside of Piazza San Marco, which I thought might be too congested. But the little information that was available was very positive.
Having my other hotel choices booked up was the luckiest thing that could have happened. The family that owns the 12-room Locanda Orseolo is ENORMOUSLY welcoming. The hotel is steps away from Piazza San Marco but located in a quiet and private courtyard. The inside is all recently refurbished in excellent taste and very well maintained.
We had 2 nice rooms...bedroom and sitting area...with large windows overlooking a narrow canal. The bathroom with shower was all very modern.
The best part was the hospitality that is extended to guests. In fact, my DH began referring to the owners and staff as the "Ciao-Team". Whether we were coming or going, they always greeted us with an enthusiastic and cheerful "CIAO" with our first names always remembered!
Other notes about this place report that you are treated like family...and it is all true. And I don't think you wil find another place that offers such an excellent breakfast. In addition to the usual cold breakfast buffet, Matteo, the owner, cooks eggs and omelets to order. Barbara, his pretty and charming wife, presides over the elegant breakfast room making sure that you are well fed before your day of sightseeing.
These people love what they do and it shows. Staying at Locanda Orseolo made our visit to Venice especially memorable.
May 31st, 2005, 12:44 PM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
VENICE TRANSPORTATION:
From the airport we splurged on a private water taxi for 80E. We had intended to use the alilaguna. But the problem with our flights gave us a great excuse to treat ourselves to the water taxi for a shorter ride into the city.
Before my trip I had emailed Locanda Orseolo to ask about airport transportation. They sent me information about the alilaguna and told me that if I preferred a water taxi it would be 80E. The hotel also WARNED me that some taxi drivers refuse to take passengers directly to the hotel saying they don't know where it is or they don't have a dock or some other excuse. (to save fuel? to save time?) The hotel told me that these drivers know exactly where the hotel is and if there is a problem, I should have them call the hotel and someone from the hotel would speak with the driver to straighten out the problem.
When we got to the water taxis, none of the drivers had ever heard of our hotel. Then they told me they couldn't take anyone directly to any hotels because it was "high tide". I had no idea if any of this was true. But at almost midnight and not having slept in 2 days, I was looking for an easy way to settle this. I told them I was willing to settle for a ride to Piazza San Marco. I had studied maps carefully and had gotten detailed directions from the hotel as to how to find it from the dock at Piazza San Marco where the alilaguna leaves passengers off.
The dispatcher told me they could take us only to Rialto Bridge which was "3 minutes walk" from Locanda Orseolo. (How could he know? Allegedly, he never heard of the place.) Well, I had my doubts about this. From the maps, I knew the hotel was a much longer walk from the Rialto Bridge than from Piazza San Marco. I had no idea how to find the hotel from the Rialto Bridge. And while I was looking forward to the experience of getting lost in Venice, I hadn't planned on doing it in the middle of the night.
So we headed back toward the Alilaguna which was also waiting at the dock. As we did so, they called after me and agreed to take us to Piazza San Marco.
As we motored into the city, I soon recognized the area around Piazza San Marco which I had seen in so many pictures. But the driver didn't stop at what appeared to be the dock. Instead, he kept on going until we were traveling down a narrow canal in the dark. I was beginning to think we were being kidnapped. Finally, he stopped the boat...and to my surprise - just a few steps from the hotel. Clearly the driver knew EXACTLY where it was.
Before my trip I had found an official webpage from Venice with the official rules for water taxis and setting fares. However, I accidentally deleted it and can't seem to find it again. I would have liked to post that information here because there are often questions about the water taxi service. So maybe someone else will have better luck finding that webpage again...because I know it exists.
From the airport we splurged on a private water taxi for 80E. We had intended to use the alilaguna. But the problem with our flights gave us a great excuse to treat ourselves to the water taxi for a shorter ride into the city.
Before my trip I had emailed Locanda Orseolo to ask about airport transportation. They sent me information about the alilaguna and told me that if I preferred a water taxi it would be 80E. The hotel also WARNED me that some taxi drivers refuse to take passengers directly to the hotel saying they don't know where it is or they don't have a dock or some other excuse. (to save fuel? to save time?) The hotel told me that these drivers know exactly where the hotel is and if there is a problem, I should have them call the hotel and someone from the hotel would speak with the driver to straighten out the problem.
When we got to the water taxis, none of the drivers had ever heard of our hotel. Then they told me they couldn't take anyone directly to any hotels because it was "high tide". I had no idea if any of this was true. But at almost midnight and not having slept in 2 days, I was looking for an easy way to settle this. I told them I was willing to settle for a ride to Piazza San Marco. I had studied maps carefully and had gotten detailed directions from the hotel as to how to find it from the dock at Piazza San Marco where the alilaguna leaves passengers off.
The dispatcher told me they could take us only to Rialto Bridge which was "3 minutes walk" from Locanda Orseolo. (How could he know? Allegedly, he never heard of the place.) Well, I had my doubts about this. From the maps, I knew the hotel was a much longer walk from the Rialto Bridge than from Piazza San Marco. I had no idea how to find the hotel from the Rialto Bridge. And while I was looking forward to the experience of getting lost in Venice, I hadn't planned on doing it in the middle of the night.
So we headed back toward the Alilaguna which was also waiting at the dock. As we did so, they called after me and agreed to take us to Piazza San Marco.
As we motored into the city, I soon recognized the area around Piazza San Marco which I had seen in so many pictures. But the driver didn't stop at what appeared to be the dock. Instead, he kept on going until we were traveling down a narrow canal in the dark. I was beginning to think we were being kidnapped. Finally, he stopped the boat...and to my surprise - just a few steps from the hotel. Clearly the driver knew EXACTLY where it was.
Before my trip I had found an official webpage from Venice with the official rules for water taxis and setting fares. However, I accidentally deleted it and can't seem to find it again. I would have liked to post that information here because there are often questions about the water taxi service. So maybe someone else will have better luck finding that webpage again...because I know it exists.
May 31st, 2005, 12:49 PM
#8
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 45,322
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good grief suntravler, the reason one takes an expensive watertaxi is to avoid frustration etc., especially after a long trip like you had (your day at the airport in Paris must have been so much fun, NOT). Good for you for walking away but how unproffessional the watertaxi drivers are evidently getting. That is a shame.
May 31st, 2005, 12:50 PM
#9
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oooh suntravler ~
Please tell me you took a water taxi to Locanda Orseolo. I can't imagine trying to find them for the first time at midnight or after on foot! But, how nice that you were able to book a room there. With all the rave reviews, they stay booked solid now.
Please tell me you took a water taxi to Locanda Orseolo. I can't imagine trying to find them for the first time at midnight or after on foot! But, how nice that you were able to book a room there. With all the rave reviews, they stay booked solid now.
May 31st, 2005, 12:52 PM
#10
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
While in Venice we walked everywhere. We took a traghetto to cross the Grand Canal where there were no bridges close by, and I must admit I had to sit down during the crossing. I just couldn't keep my balance standing up like almost everyone else.
We took only 2 vaporetto rides...once was after dinner at La Zucca restaurant because finding the vaporetto was easier than finding our way back to the hotel on those zig zag streets in the dark...and the other time was when we left the hotel for the train staions with our luggage.
Otherwise, when we saw the vaporettos, they were always very crowded, even late at night, and we didn't feel like being crushed.
VENICE MAP: I would like to pass on some information, which I luckily obtained from other posters here. a good map is essential in Venice. Many of the maps I looked at were incomplete...a lot of streets left out..OR their print was much too tiny for me...even with glasses.
With several recommendations I found on Fodor's, I bought online the "Illustrated Venice Map" for $9.95. It uses larger print. All the important landmarks are clearly indicated with pictures to help you navigate from point to point. Vaporetto stops and traghetto stops are also clearly shown. It also has a listing of all sorts of useful information, including hotels, restaurants, bars, cafes, shops, etc. I ordered it at: www.TravelGuideWarehouse.com. It took about 2 weeks for it to arrive even though they said they had it in stock.
We took only 2 vaporetto rides...once was after dinner at La Zucca restaurant because finding the vaporetto was easier than finding our way back to the hotel on those zig zag streets in the dark...and the other time was when we left the hotel for the train staions with our luggage.
Otherwise, when we saw the vaporettos, they were always very crowded, even late at night, and we didn't feel like being crushed.
VENICE MAP: I would like to pass on some information, which I luckily obtained from other posters here. a good map is essential in Venice. Many of the maps I looked at were incomplete...a lot of streets left out..OR their print was much too tiny for me...even with glasses.
With several recommendations I found on Fodor's, I bought online the "Illustrated Venice Map" for $9.95. It uses larger print. All the important landmarks are clearly indicated with pictures to help you navigate from point to point. Vaporetto stops and traghetto stops are also clearly shown. It also has a listing of all sorts of useful information, including hotels, restaurants, bars, cafes, shops, etc. I ordered it at: www.TravelGuideWarehouse.com. It took about 2 weeks for it to arrive even though they said they had it in stock.
May 31st, 2005, 01:16 PM
#12
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
suntravler,
> But I like to believe there are no mistakes in life . . . only learning opportunities. <
I love your optimism.
We have reserved three nights at Locanda Orseolo for later this year, and are encouraged by your glowing review. We are starting to book our days' activities. It sounds like Matteo's omlets are not to be missed. What are the hotel's breakfast hours?
Woody
> But I like to believe there are no mistakes in life . . . only learning opportunities. <
I love your optimism.
We have reserved three nights at Locanda Orseolo for later this year, and are encouraged by your glowing review. We are starting to book our days' activities. It sounds like Matteo's omlets are not to be missed. What are the hotel's breakfast hours?
Woody
May 31st, 2005, 01:18 PM
#13
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ira: Your analysis of the wine situation is probably correct. That would be my theory too.
LoveItaly: There have been some previous discussions on this board about this same wine question. Several posters have reported the same reaction.
Which wine I liked the best? All of them as long as I'm drinking them in Italy.
Rookie: Locanda Orseolo gave me extremely detailed directions for finding the hotel...even in the dark at midnight. In fact, they emailed me photos of landmarks to look for to help me find my way!
LoveItaly: There have been some previous discussions on this board about this same wine question. Several posters have reported the same reaction.
Which wine I liked the best? All of them as long as I'm drinking them in Italy.
Rookie: Locanda Orseolo gave me extremely detailed directions for finding the hotel...even in the dark at midnight. In fact, they emailed me photos of landmarks to look for to help me find my way!
May 31st, 2005, 01:27 PM
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
SIGHTSEEING: We did the usual Venice sightseeing: Piazza San Marco, the Rialto fish market, Palazzao Ducale, and getting lost in the streets. We didn't want to rush our visit which is why we never got to any of the Islands. So now we have a good excuse for another trip.
For me, the most interesting part of the visit was just roaming the city and observing how it was all put together...streets, canals, bridges, buildings. From our hotel window overlooking a narrow canal, we could watch how deliveries are made from delivery boats starting very early in the morning...I assume to avoid traffic jams with tourist gondolas later in the day. When you see how deliverymen unload huge boxes from the boats onto "hand trucks", you know how they stay in shape without the need for expensive gym memberships.
We missed our appt at the Accademia because we were pleasantly lost on the other side of the city. But we did see the Guggenheim. We also took the Secret Itineraries tour at the Palazzo Ducale, and we visited the Old Jewish Ghetto. We toured as many of the beautiful churches as time allowed.
I also discoverd that there isn't enough film in the world for all the unique sights. (Yes, I still use FILM.) So, after the excitement of the first morning, I put away my camera and used it sparingly except to photograph the restaurants where we ate...mostly to make our friends at home more jealous. This brings me to the next subject of my report:
All this sightseeing in Venice is hard work and really gives you an appetite.
For me, the most interesting part of the visit was just roaming the city and observing how it was all put together...streets, canals, bridges, buildings. From our hotel window overlooking a narrow canal, we could watch how deliveries are made from delivery boats starting very early in the morning...I assume to avoid traffic jams with tourist gondolas later in the day. When you see how deliverymen unload huge boxes from the boats onto "hand trucks", you know how they stay in shape without the need for expensive gym memberships.
We missed our appt at the Accademia because we were pleasantly lost on the other side of the city. But we did see the Guggenheim. We also took the Secret Itineraries tour at the Palazzo Ducale, and we visited the Old Jewish Ghetto. We toured as many of the beautiful churches as time allowed.
I also discoverd that there isn't enough film in the world for all the unique sights. (Yes, I still use FILM.) So, after the excitement of the first morning, I put away my camera and used it sparingly except to photograph the restaurants where we ate...mostly to make our friends at home more jealous. This brings me to the next subject of my report:
All this sightseeing in Venice is hard work and really gives you an appetite.
May 31st, 2005, 01:31 PM
#15
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Woody: Gee, in my old age I can't remember the exact breakfast hours. I THINK it was 8 AM to 10:30. But I am NOT positive. I'll see if my DH remembers more exactly when he gets home. Otherwise, if you email the hotel, I'm sure they will be glad to give you the correct information.
May 31st, 2005, 01:42 PM
#17
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
VENICE RESTAURANTS: Bancogiro, Ristorante Riviera, Alla Rivetta, La Zucca, Bar Accademia, Al Paradiso
Food is a very important part of our vacations and I hate to waste even a single calorie...or penny..on sub-standard food and sevice. I used several sources to choose restaurants, including recommendations on this MB. But my main source was "CHOW VENICE", by Shannon Essa and Ruth Edenbaum. (They also have a website where they give updates to their book.)
I chose to use this as my primary guide because it seemed to be very complete, and the authors addressed the same concerns that I have when judging a restaurant. So much has been said that the food in Venice isn't that great. Well, we chose carefully and were never disappointed.
Even armed with menu translators, most menus were a total mystery to us. The ingredients are VERY unfamiliar.. especially the types of fish which were mostly unknown to us, even though we are big fish fans.
However, waiters were prepared to explain the menu mysteries in English and they were always very patient with us. Many times we were still puzzled about what to order and left it to the waiter. Delightful surprises awaited us.
Now this is where my wine research really got serious. We ordered wine at lunch and dinner. Sometimes just a glass, sometimes a whole bottle. But the results happily confirmed my previous experiences that drinking wine in Italy will NOT turn my brain to mush.
Food is a very important part of our vacations and I hate to waste even a single calorie...or penny..on sub-standard food and sevice. I used several sources to choose restaurants, including recommendations on this MB. But my main source was "CHOW VENICE", by Shannon Essa and Ruth Edenbaum. (They also have a website where they give updates to their book.)
I chose to use this as my primary guide because it seemed to be very complete, and the authors addressed the same concerns that I have when judging a restaurant. So much has been said that the food in Venice isn't that great. Well, we chose carefully and were never disappointed.
Even armed with menu translators, most menus were a total mystery to us. The ingredients are VERY unfamiliar.. especially the types of fish which were mostly unknown to us, even though we are big fish fans.
However, waiters were prepared to explain the menu mysteries in English and they were always very patient with us. Many times we were still puzzled about what to order and left it to the waiter. Delightful surprises awaited us.
Now this is where my wine research really got serious. We ordered wine at lunch and dinner. Sometimes just a glass, sometimes a whole bottle. But the results happily confirmed my previous experiences that drinking wine in Italy will NOT turn my brain to mush.
May 31st, 2005, 02:00 PM
#19
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
About a week before our trip I emailed the hotel to have them make reservations for me. It was a busy week in Venice with 2 local holidays and a lot of visitors expected. So I wanted to play it safe with reservations.
Al Paradiso: I think this was our most enjoyable dinner...the extremely gracious service added to the fine food. It was a very pretty place down a small side street near the Rialto Bridge. And it was open on Sunday night when a lot of other places are closed.
In addition to the bottle of Sauvignon del Collio from the Friuli region, the maitre d' gave us each 2 glasses of some after dinner liqueur and I was STILL able to follow my map and lead us back to the hotel. Talk about research!
I must add that we enjoyed the conversation with diners at nearby tables who were from all parts of the world.
La Zucca: The menu is unique. They do wonderful things with vegetable dishes. But this place is very hard to find in a maze of poorly labeled ancient streets and alleyways, especially in the dark. We had to backtrack several times until we found it. Good thing we started out early. But it was well worth the effort trying to find it.
The staff was extremely friendly. With those menu items, I wish they would come up with a cookbook.
Even after a carafe of the house wine, my brain was able to make the wise and sensible decision to take the Vaporetto back to the hotel. Signs clearly led us to the San Stae Vaporetto stop. Otherwise, without having dropped any bread crumbs from our walk to the restaurant, there was no way I would have found our way back to the hotel before dawn.
Alla Rivetta: The food is very good, but it is a crowded, hectic place. For dinner, I prefer something more relaxing. But it was good for a quick and satisfying lunch. A short walk from Piazza San Marco.
Bar Accademia: The pizza was really good and the view was outstanding! Right next to the Accadmia Museum, under the bridge.
Bancogiro: My DH said that the fish he had here was the best he's ever eaten...very light and simply prepared...but delicious. In fact, since coming home I have tried to duplicate the recipe with pretty good results.
To find this place you must know that it is located in Camp San Giacometto near the Rialto Fish Market. Otherwise, you might never find it. There is no real sign. Look for #122 and 123 in that square.
Al Paradiso: I think this was our most enjoyable dinner...the extremely gracious service added to the fine food. It was a very pretty place down a small side street near the Rialto Bridge. And it was open on Sunday night when a lot of other places are closed.
In addition to the bottle of Sauvignon del Collio from the Friuli region, the maitre d' gave us each 2 glasses of some after dinner liqueur and I was STILL able to follow my map and lead us back to the hotel. Talk about research!
I must add that we enjoyed the conversation with diners at nearby tables who were from all parts of the world.
La Zucca: The menu is unique. They do wonderful things with vegetable dishes. But this place is very hard to find in a maze of poorly labeled ancient streets and alleyways, especially in the dark. We had to backtrack several times until we found it. Good thing we started out early. But it was well worth the effort trying to find it.
The staff was extremely friendly. With those menu items, I wish they would come up with a cookbook.
Even after a carafe of the house wine, my brain was able to make the wise and sensible decision to take the Vaporetto back to the hotel. Signs clearly led us to the San Stae Vaporetto stop. Otherwise, without having dropped any bread crumbs from our walk to the restaurant, there was no way I would have found our way back to the hotel before dawn.
Alla Rivetta: The food is very good, but it is a crowded, hectic place. For dinner, I prefer something more relaxing. But it was good for a quick and satisfying lunch. A short walk from Piazza San Marco.
Bar Accademia: The pizza was really good and the view was outstanding! Right next to the Accadmia Museum, under the bridge.
Bancogiro: My DH said that the fish he had here was the best he's ever eaten...very light and simply prepared...but delicious. In fact, since coming home I have tried to duplicate the recipe with pretty good results.
To find this place you must know that it is located in Camp San Giacometto near the Rialto Fish Market. Otherwise, you might never find it. There is no real sign. Look for #122 and 123 in that square.
