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-   -   Recs for a few days in France (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/recs-for-a-few-days-in-france-1674541/)

lonelyplanet Nov 28th, 2019 09:35 AM

Recs for a few days in France
 
Hi all,

My wife and I are taking a rare trip alone (we have 2 small toddlers) to France in late Feb/early March 2020 for 10 days. We will spend 3 - 4 days in Paris for a meeting but then will have 6 - 7 days free. I realize we can go virtually anywhere by train/TGV. We are especially fans of smaller towns with great food and simple beauty but would of course consider any big town sights too. What would be your recommendations be for a week or so outside of Paris? Thank you in advance for your help and suggestions (and for those in the US — happy thanksgiving!!)

isabel Nov 28th, 2019 10:01 AM

How about Dijon. Or Strasbourg. Neither of those are small but their historic centers feel small. And there are day trips to smaller towns that you can do. From Dijon there Beaune. From Strasbourg there's Colmar. Or consider Lyon and do a day trip to Perouges.

StCirq Nov 28th, 2019 10:16 AM

Honestly, there are probably well more than a few thousand places in France that would fit this description, even if you limited it to places relatively easily accessible by train. Rather than have us, and you, throw darts at a map, it would be helpful to narrow your scope down considerably.

What kind of simple beauty? Half-timbered houses? Stunning seascapes? Rolling hills? Snow-covered mountains? Lakes and rivers? Lauze roofs? Romanesque chapels? Stone houses? Chalets? Pine forests?

Great food means what to you? Baeckeoffe and choucroute royale and tartes aux mirabeilles? Foie gras and confit de canard? Pl teaux de fruits de mer? Poulet au cidre? Jambon de Bayonne? Tapenade and fougasse? Daube de boeuf? Wild boar? Milk-fed pré-salé lamb? Truffles? Pastries?

There are many people here with vast knowledge of beautiful places in France and succulent things to eat in all of them. Help us out with some details of what you are looking for.

Michael Nov 28th, 2019 10:54 AM

I would choose larger towns. Small French towns can be dreary in the middle of winter. Maybe take the TGV to Marseille and then train along the Côte d'Azur to Nice and Menton. Given that that area is known for its Mediterranean/semi tropical gardens, it probably would have more comfortable temperatures than Marseille or Dijon, unless a mistral is blowing. If you are skiers, maybe a week of skiing in the French Alps would be a better choice.

jpie Dec 1st, 2019 07:39 AM

Another city that comes to mind is Bordeaux. It is nice with kids because it mostly flat and they have a great tram system to get you anywhere in town. They have a lovely central pedestrian only city center area that has a nice carrousel that kids that age would love I think. In general it is just a really easy city and potentially more like to have sun that time of year than other areas.. You could even rent a car for a day and go to the beach if the weather is nice. Here are some photos to give you a sense of it:

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e234a4d005.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...720053b53e.png

StCirq Dec 1st, 2019 07:54 AM

I live 2.5 hours from Bordeaux and would never go there in February or March. I love Bordeaux, but at that time of year, hell, no.

starrs Dec 1st, 2019 08:42 AM


Originally Posted by StCirq (Post 17023790)
I live 2.5 hours from Bordeaux and would never go there in February or March. I love Bordeaux, but at that time of year, hell, no.


Where WOULD you go?


Michael Dec 1st, 2019 11:44 AM


Originally Posted by starrs (Post 17023830)
Where WOULD you go?

Stay home by the fire?

starrs Dec 1st, 2019 11:55 AM


Originally Posted by Michael (Post 17023931)
Stay home by the fire?

Not very helpful to vistors who want to plan a winter trip they are looking forward to.

Perhaps they will stumble on a travel forum for France that provides suggestions.

"My wife and I are taking a rare trip alone (we have 2 small toddlers) to France in late Feb/early March 2020 for 10 days. We will spend 3 - 4 days in Paris for a meeting but then will have 6 - 7 days free."

I love Paris in winter so I just bundle up and see the things I enoy in warmer months. Personally, I would take the TGV to Avignon and enjoy the walled city and then rent a car and drive around Provence. Yes, even in winter. Normandy is at the top of my list so I would go there. Years ago I found a stone cottage in a lavendar field that rents for as much for a month as is charged in the summer when the lavender is blooming. Yes, the mistral may be blowing, but it's Provence! Or perhaps a couple of nights in the Lorire valley, visiting castles.. I like winter vacations and know things will be very different from summer vacations. That appeals to me. I'm returning to one of my favorite (domestic) locations just to see it in winter. But I haven't been outside of Paris in winter, so my suggestions are just dreams. One day...
Even in winter.

starrs Dec 1st, 2019 12:14 PM

Here's an old thread from TA I found via a google search. The poster asked for winter ideas for the Loire Valley and received some helpful replies -
https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopi...re_Valley.html

starrs Dec 1st, 2019 12:47 PM

Okay, I'll share my secret place. I've not been there...yet, but plan to after I retire. I found it about 20 years ago online and at that time it was 700 euros a week in July when the surrounding lavender is in bloom and 700 euros a month in winter. Now it's an airbnb and the rate for March is a little over $100 USD a night with a 4 night minimum. It may be cold at that time of year, especially if the mistral is blowing but it may be much warmer and nicer. I checked reviews from winter visits just now and the stone cottage was nice and warm, even in winter. You may have to drive to Apt to find an open restaurant, but when I've gone to Provence and Tuscany I like to go out for a big meal in the middle of the day and to shop and sight-see and then come back and have dinner "at home". It may or may not be anything you would be interested in but it could be a lovely option, especially since the two of you don't have a lot of alone time.
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/7605070...out=2020-03-15
There's plenty to see and do within a 1.5 hour drive, which for me is perfect for exploring during the day.

Michael Dec 1st, 2019 03:19 PM

I did provide suggestions that took into account potential weather conditions.

starrs Dec 1st, 2019 03:41 PM

Yes, you did. jpie did also.

Leely2 Dec 1st, 2019 05:01 PM

I took a trip to Provence and a bit of the Languedoc in January for a week+ once. I had to use-or-lose vacation by the end of January, so that's when I went. Just chose specific sights I wanted to see and did the whole thing by train. Marseille, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, and Carcassonne. I lucked out with mostly sunny but cold weather. Except it snowed in Carcassonne, which was atmospheric but brrrr.

This isn't a specific recommendation, just saying it's not the end of the world to go somewhere other than Paris in France in winter. My trip was fast-paced, and although I noticed the quietness most places, I wasn't really affected by it. So I would just think about what things (indoor, hopefully) you have always wanted to see in France and then go where those are.

Have a great trip and please come back and share your experience.

starrs Dec 1st, 2019 05:06 PM


Originally Posted by Leely2 (Post 17024077)
So I would just think about what things (indoor, hopefully) you have always wanted to see in France and then go where those are.

I agree.

jpie Dec 2nd, 2019 07:30 AM

We spent a month in Bordeaux from around 20th of Feb. to 20th of March and actually the weather was pretty nice-partly cloudy to sunny and in the 50s and 60s most days. I think it does get a bit better weather than more inland-although any given year who knows.

My initial reaction to the OP's question was actually to say just wait and see when you get there. Yes you might spend a bit more on train tickets by waiting but you also will have a lot more flex and choice about where to go. I do agree that the Languedoc is sort of the first place that came to mind. You can get to Avignon TGV station in just under 3 hours and pick up a car from there. We happen to love Uzes but there are plenty of other lovely cities and villages in that area and if you want to explore the coast even going as far as Narbonne is only a 2 hour drive.

jtpj777 Dec 2nd, 2019 07:49 AM

I’m in agreement with Michael. At that time of year take the TGV south to Marseille and the Cote d’Azur: good chance of some decent weather and plenty to see. Some days in Marseille and surrounds then train to Nice for some time, fly back to Paris.

PS Driving around small villages in Provence ( or anywhere in inland France) at the time of year you are going would not be a good experience as many sites/ hotels/ restaurants are closed for the winter.

StCirq Dec 2nd, 2019 09:01 AM

Where would I go?

We go to Essaouira. Morocco.

We were in Bordeaux 2 weeks ago and it was bitter cold, pouring-down rain, fiercely windy, and totally miserable. It's been, and is going to be, a very unpleasant winter/early spring here in France.

mjs Dec 2nd, 2019 07:25 PM

In general I have not found the country side in Europe to be particularly inviting during the winter. Spent a few weeks in Majorca once in between terms which was reasonably pleasant but otherwise tend to visit large cities in the winter. If you wish to stick to France I too would head to the Cote.

StCirq Dec 3rd, 2019 05:17 AM

Go to the Pyrenées if you must be in France in the winter. Get an apartment in some place like Amélie-les-Bains and sign up for daily spa treatments. Take the Bus à Un Euro all over and explore. Towns in the Pyrenées are geared to winter travelers. Restaurants and cafés are open, the markets are full of winter produce, and the local towns and villages are celebrating their peak season. You can take the bus (for one euro) to beautiful places like Collioure for a daytrip if you like, or even into Spain.

If you don't go someplace like the Mediterranean coast, which will probably be warmer than most other places, as Michael suggests, then go somewhere that is set up for and geared to please winter visitors -like the Pyrenées. We spent a lovely, if frozen, week there in December a couple of years ago. Spa towns are absolutely fabulous in the winter in France.

Fleur_de_Lis Dec 3rd, 2019 04:10 PM

Just want to inject a little positivity into this thread and point out that going in Feb/March is not that terrible of a thing - it will actually be a great opportunity to see parts of France (and Paris!) when it's least crowded, without the hordes of tourists, and I consider that a huge positive (particularly for Paris).

I second the original idea Isabel posted about. Strasbourg would be great, and you could check out nearby(ish) towns of Colmar and Riquewihr which are lovely and fairytale-ish and sound right up your alley! Look up some pics - I bet your interest will be sparked!

Otherwise, if you're interested in castles/chateaux you could do a Loire Valley tour and stop in some of the adorable small villages there.

StCirq Dec 5th, 2019 05:17 AM

I'm all for positivity and tried to inject some of my own, but frankly I can hardly think of anything bleaker than the Loire Valley, which isn't all that attractive IMO at any time of year, in February.

Coquelicot Dec 5th, 2019 07:12 AM

In winter, you’re obviously not going to see any town or village in full flower, but if you focus on architecture (plus good meals, of course), there are many towns and villages worth visiting. But you would need to rent a car, because trains don't go to smaller places.

Each of the 159 Plus Beaux Villages features the local stone of its region, so they are all different. We’ll drive out of our way to see one. Here’s a link to the map:

https://www.les-plus-beaux-villages-...ages/?map=true

Off the top of my head, here are some towns north of the Loire (to limit your driving) that I think are worth visiting for architecture. Some of these are on the PBV website. Bernay, Gerberoy, Belleme, Bagnoles de l’Orne, Chateau-Gontier (especially a particular café with remarkable tiles), Laval, Lyons la Foret, Loches, Le Mans’s old center, Pont Audemer, Sainte Suzanne, and Veules les Roses. I’ll throw in Honfleur and Bayeux which we disliked because of the crowds but that won’t be a problem when you’re traveling.

Most of these places have more to offer than architecture–some have excellent and not expensive restaurants, museums, shopping. Each town's one-day-a-week street market will be active and most of the other shoppers will be French. The conviviality of a market day is wonderful to be part of, even if you see old friends exchanging the bise but nobody’s kissing you.

In the Loire, some of the grand chateaux do fabulous winter flower arrangements. I would love to see Chenonceau and Azay le Rideau without the crowds.

Have fun planning and I hope it’s a wonderful trip.

starrs Dec 5th, 2019 07:15 AM


Originally Posted by Fleur_de_Lis (Post 17024987)
Just want to inject a little positivity into this thread and point out that going in Feb/March is not that terrible of a thing - it will actually be a great opportunity to see parts of France (and Paris!) when it's least crowded, without the hordes of tourists, and I consider that a huge positive (particularly for Paris).

I completely agree, especially about Paris.

Far more positive to help the poster who will already be in the country on business than telling them to fly to Morocco.

Morocco does not appeal to me at all. Anywhere in France, even in winter, does.



Coquelicot Dec 5th, 2019 07:16 AM

In winter, you’re obviously not going to see any town or village in full flower, but if you focus on architecture (plus good meals, of course), there are many towns and villages worth visiting. But you would need to rent a car, because trains don't go to smaller places.

Each of the 159 Plus Beaux Villages features the local stone of its region, so they are all different. We’ll drive out of our way to see one. Here’s a link to the map:

https://www.les-plus-beaux-villages-...ages/?map=true

Off the top of my head, here are some towns north of the Loire (to limit your driving) that I think are worth visiting for architecture. Some of these may be on the PBV website. Bernay, Gerberoy, Belleme, Bagnoles de l’Orne, Chateau-Gontier (especially a particular café with remarkable tiles), Laval, Lyons la Foret, Loches, Le Mans’s old center, Pont Audemer, Sainte Suzanne, and Veules les Roses. I’ll throw in Honfleur and Bayeux which we disliked because of the crowds but that won’t be a problem when you’re traveling.

Most of these places have more to offer than architecture–some have excellent and not expensive restaurants, museums, shopping. Each town's weekly market will be active and most of the other shoppers will be French. The conviviality of a market day is wonderful to be part of, even if old friends are exchanging the bise but nobody’s kissing you.

In the Loire, some of the grand chateaux do fabulous winter flower arrangements. I would love to see Chenonceau and Azay le Rideau without the crowds.

Have fun planning and I hope it’s a wonderful trip.

Coquelicot Dec 5th, 2019 07:36 AM

In winter, you’re obviously not going to see any town or village in full flower, but if you focus on architecture (plus good meals, of course), there are many towns and villages worth visiting. But you would need to rent a car, because trains don't go to smaller places.

Each of the 159 Plus Beaux Villages features the local stone of its region, so they are all different. We’ll drive out of our way to see one. Here’s a link to the map:

https://www.les-plus-beaux-villages-...ages/?map=true

Off the top of my head, here are some towns north of the Loire (to limit your driving) that I think are worth visiting for architecture. Some of these may be on the PBV website. Bernay, Gerberoy, Belleme, Bagnoles de l’Orne, Chateau-Gontier (especially a particular café with remarkable tiles), Laval, Lyons la Foret, Loches, Le Mans’s old center, Pont Audemer, Sainte Suzanne, and Veules les Roses. I’ll throw in Honfleur and Bayeux which we disliked because of the crowds but that won’t be a problem when you’re traveling.

Most of these places have more to offer than architecture–some have excellent and not expensive restaurants, museums, shopping. Each town's weekly market will be active and most of the other shoppers will be French. The conviviality of a market day is wonderful to be part of, even if old friends are exchanging the bise but nobody’s kissing you.

In the Loire, some of the grand chateaux do fabulous winter flower arrangements. I would love to see Chenonceau and Azay le Rideau without the crowds.

Have fun planning and I hope it’s a wonderful trip.

Coquelicot Dec 5th, 2019 07:57 AM

Wow. Three times! My post never showed up on my computer which is why I kept on entering it. Only when I picked up my phone did I see that it had actually gone through, in triplicate.

Off the top of my head, I think the Beauce in winter would be more depressing than the Loire.

Michael Dec 5th, 2019 11:58 AM

I don't see the insistence on anything north of the Loire or the Loire valley itself in the middle of winter with the greater chances of nasty weather; think of a cold rainy day with temperatures hovering in the thirties. The OP could get an open jaw, travel south by train or plane and return from an airport in the south: Toulouse if the Pyrenees area is chosen, Marseille for the Provence, Nice for the Côte d'Azur. For small villages such as this one:

https://flic.kr/p/MJLpFW
a car would be needed, although there is a bus service to the town.

starrs Dec 7th, 2019 03:32 AM

Here is an older trip report that was taken in March a few years ago. Maybe it will give you some ideas -
https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...-929573/page3/

starrs Jan 4th, 2020 01:17 PM

lonelyplanet, curious as to where you decided to go.


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