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recommended driving route from Saint-Jean-de-Luz to Vitoria-Gasteiz?

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recommended driving route from Saint-Jean-de-Luz to Vitoria-Gasteiz?

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Old Jun 11th, 2016, 10:22 PM
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recommended driving route from Saint-Jean-de-Luz to Vitoria-Gasteiz?

I will be leaving a B&B near St Jean de Luz by car in late September toward two nights in Vitoria-Gasteiz. I'm having trouble choosing my route. From what I see there are three strong contenders:

1) I've read very good things about Nacedero de Urederra for a short day hike and have been thinking I could go through there on the way if the day is lovely. Would be around 2 1/2 hrs through Tolosa, plus time for hiking.

2) According to The Guardian (http://www.theguardian.com/travel/20...ope-road-trips) one of the "Best drives in Europe" goes from Biarritz through Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, skirting Pamplona through Estella to Vitoria-Gasteiz. This looks like about 4 hours (+) according to google maps.

3) I've also read that the "Smuggler's Route" from Sare is the way to go, though I haven't pinned down exactly that that means. Through via this route I'm assuming I could see Ainhoa, Sare and the Zugarramurdi Witch Museum with a little authentic Gateau Basque for good measure along this route.

Any recommendations from folks who have been through this region?

Much appreciated!
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Old Jun 11th, 2016, 11:25 PM
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Fabulous landscapes and small towns around here, and you seem to have looked up three great options. Tolosa is a wonderful town, and excellent hiking around here into the Aralar mountains, so I would perhaps recommend that option. See if you can fit in the Saturday market, a special vibe here then: http://www.euskoguide.com/places-bas...olosa-tourism/
http://tourism.euskadi.eus/en/natura...aa30-12375/en/

Also some sensational restaurants in Tolosa where you could have the best steak in the world or the famous Tolosa beans.
Steaks in Casa Julián or Casa Nicolás:
http://www.viamichelin.com/web/Resta...s-223822-41102
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaura...e_Country.html
And the Tolosa beans ++ in El Frontón:
http://www.viamichelin.com/web/Resta...n-223819-41102
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Old Jun 11th, 2016, 11:32 PM
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We normally take what is referred to as the "Smuggler's Route" only because we're familiar with the area. It allows you to avoid the heavy traffic on the main highway and the toll booth at the 'border'.

If you have the time, the Gateau Basque museum is an interesting stop.

If you want to visit the witche's cave at Zugarramurdi, then you would have to follow the N-121B into Navarra. It's a few minutes south of Ainhoa.
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Old Jun 12th, 2016, 02:23 AM
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I hope you're not renting a car and planning to pick it up in France and drop it off in Spain - that will cost you a fortune.

Can't help with the routing, sorry, though I'm starting to plan something similar for us in September and may have some thoughts later when we've done more research.
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Old Jun 12th, 2016, 10:43 AM
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Thank you, kimhe! You are a terrific and generous resource here!

My feeling is that I will be in the car for plenty enough time on this trip. I don’t want to add to that unless it’s a can’t-miss thing. I think the Tolosa route will be my Plan A and it’s good to know that the other two are good options if I need to make adjustments.

For now, this google map shows the whole route of my trip: https://goo.gl/I61htx . It may look a little convoluted, but I am making a special effort to see the recently announced Francis Bacon show at the Guggenheim that opens on Sept 30 (after working in the arts for many years, this is my cross to bear) and still preserve the 2.5 days in Toulouse before flying out early on the 4th of Oct.

-------------
Robert2016 , where do you like to cross for your Smuggler’s Route? I can’t find anything that actually spells out what the route is. Perhaps I need to find the pirate map ☺

StCirq, I will have the car for two weeks, r/t from the Toulouse Airport. I will eagerly watch for recommendations you want to share once your planning for this area starts to come together.
------------

I will be coming from three nights (Thurs Sept 22/Fri 23/Sat 24) at Maison Tamarin, just north of Saint-Jean-de-Luz. From here I will enjoy as much as possible of the Biarritz/Bayonne/ SJdL/Hondarribia/Donostia area. While I don’t have these days plotted out yet I do have an extensive list of things I am hoping to see along the way. Probably too extensive. Will surely need to make some hard choices here.

It does mean that my drive to Vitoria-Gasteiz will be on Sunday and my full day in La Rioja on Monday. I may have fewer options in terms of what is open, but due to other constraints I think these days are my best options. However, the timing could work for a nice lunch at Casa Julián or Frontón on the way. I have them both marked on my map and will possibly set a reservation before heading that direction.

kja>>> if you have found this thread, I would love advice on how you arranged your tours of Santa Maria de los Reyes and the Monasterios de Suso and Yuso.

Thanks, all!!
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Old Jun 12th, 2016, 03:19 PM
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For Santa Maria de los Reyes in Laguardia, I contacted the tourist information office in advance:
[email protected]
They were very helpful, and that portal is awesome!

For my reservations for the Monasteries de Suso and Yuso, I relied on my B&B in Laguardia, having been unable to find an effective direct contact in advance.
Well worth seeing, IMO, although you will need to plan on several hours there.

Enjoy!
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Old Jun 12th, 2016, 04:37 PM
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Lisa,
We've done the drive many times in several ways--
from St-Jean-de-Luz to Vitoria through Tolosa (with lunch at Casa Julián, Frontón for alubias and the equally good Casa Nicolás for an incredible steak),

directly south on the N 121 A through Pamplona, past the beautiful Parque Natural Señorío de Bertiz (exit at Oronoz for a stunning and very easy hike through this park)

from St-jean-de Luz through St-Jean-Pied-de Port to Pamplona.

They're all pretty drives.

But the third drive, St-Jean-de-Luz to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Pamplona to Vitoria, through Estella would take the longest and wouldn't give you time, I don't think to take the Nacerdero de Urederra hike in Navarra.

We've taken this hike (partially). We've accessed it from Estella, Navarra.

http://nacederourederra.com/Como%20l...dr&iwstate1=di

You could drive from St-Jean-de-Luz to Pamplona on the N 121 A (omitting the "smugglars' route" through Sare and Bera de Bidasoa on the NA 4410/D 406)
Then from Pamplona to Estella on the A 12,
then from Estella, you would drive up the NA 718 for 20 minutes into the Parque Natural de Urbasa-Andía to the village of Baquedano, where the Nacerdero de Urederra hike begins.

The estimated time for the hike is 2 1/2 hours. Then from Baquedano you would travel north on the NA 718 to the A-1, west to Vitoria.

To arrange a guided visit to the Santa María de los Reyes church in Laguardia, you need to go to the tourist office, as kja explains, and inquire when guided visits are given. The schedule varies according to the season. Visits are given in Spanish with a sheet in English for the non Spanish speakers.

For the Monasterio de Suso, one must reserve by phone:
(+34) 941 373 082 It's closed Mondays.
The office is open 9:30- 1:30 and 3:30-6: 30.

September schedule for Suso:
9:55 -1:25 and 3:55-5:55
(You can't reserve for the 9:55 visit, for some reason).
Closed Mondays.

You can't access Suso by private vehicle. You need to take the shuttle bus provided from the Monastery of Yuso. This shuttle operates in the morning at : 9:55 / 10:25 / 10:55 / 11:25 / 11:55 / 12:25 / 12:55 / 1:25
In the afternoon at 3:55 / 4:25 / 4:55 / 5:25 / 5:55
It doesn't operate on Mondays since both Monasteries are closed.

For the Monastery of Yuso you don't need reservations. You'll take a 50-minute guided visit. The September schedule is 10:00h-1:30 and 4:00-6:30 pm
But closed on Mondays.

Since your full day in the Rioja is Monday, you won't be able to visit.

The other Rioja monasteries, Monasterio de la Luz in Cañas and the stunning Santa María la Real in Nájera are also closed on Mondays.
http://www.santamarialareal.net
http://www.monasteriodecañas.es/horariostarifas.html

The Monasterio de Valvanera, which sits just south of Yuso and Suso off the LR 113 in Anguiano, I believe is open on Mondays.
http://monasteriodevalvanera.es/monasterio/

We highly recommend the Maison Tamarin! It has a beautiful location.
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Old Jun 12th, 2016, 04:53 PM
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Thanks, kja! Just my luck, it is closed on Monday. But I could go straight there on Sunday in the drive that I was originally asking about here, aiming to arrive when they re-open period from 16,00 - 18,00. I think I will plan to do that. I can still stop in Tolosa without a problem.

I have finally given up the idea that I might get to Picos on this trip. Once I made my peace with that I was able to get a more strategically placed reservation for the Sept 27-Oct1 stretch. This period will be concentrated more on Bilbao and the coastal region between it and the Geopark.

It feels like a smarter and less stressful itinerary and I find I am very happy with the (hopefully last) new plan (fingers crossed).
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Old Jun 12th, 2016, 05:02 PM
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Thank you Robert2016 !!! Your post showed up for me after my one just above. What a great amount of good information.

I will give some thought to which is more important (and could depend on what my weather situation turns out to be) between the Nacerdero hike or the monastery tour. If I decide on the tour I will have the folks at Tamarin (wonderful to hear your recommendation!!) help me make reservations for the Sunday shuttle at 3:55.

I really appreciate your help!
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Old Jun 12th, 2016, 05:02 PM
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Mondays can pose such a challenge to sightseeing in Spain! And Sunday afternoons, too.

When I visited the Santa María de los Reyes in Laguardia, there was an English-speaking tour, which I reserved in advance by e-mail. Maybe things have changed?

IIRC, I tried several times to reserve the Monasterio de Suso by phone, but never reached an English-speaking person and, unfortunately, my Spanish was not up to the task. That, too, could have changed.
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Old Jun 12th, 2016, 05:10 PM
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kja,
It may have been that there was enough interest to have an English-speaking tour on your date. It may depend on the season, or... it may have changed and the tourist office now gives tours in English every day. We'll be checking on that when there in July.
Thanks for the heads up.
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Old Jun 12th, 2016, 05:47 PM
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@ Robert -- and thanks for looking into it!
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