Recommendations for a Week in Bilbao/San Sebastian at Easter ?
 

Hi all,

My wife and I have picked up a cheap flight from our local airport (Bristol, UK) to Bilbao and would love some recommendations of what/where to see/do/stay/eat etc. We fly out on 8th April, and return a week later on 15th April. Thanks to Easyjet the flight is only costing us £40GBP each return.

Current plan (open to discussion :-) ) is to stay two nights in Bilbao, see the Guggenheim (although tbh neither of us are modern art fanatics - seems a shame to stay there and not see it though) and some of the city, then hire a car and head East to stay in San Sebastian for the remaining 5 nights.

Main questions are :

Where to stay in Bilbao ? Gran Hotel Domine looks very plush/modern, but its also tempting to save the £££ and stay at the Barcelo Nervion for half the price. Any experiences of either (Looked at previous posts about the Domine - what about the Nervion? or other ? Will pay up to $150 a night if its worth it, but we're quite happy to pay less if the extra is not justified)

Where to stay in San Seb. ? (Can't really justify the cost of the Maria Cristina for a supposedly cheap break at Easter - How about the Hotel San Sebastian - or the Silken Amara - Any experience of either would be most welcome.)

What to see ? Seems like there will be plenty to occupy us in the region for a week. What would you recommend as the most rewarding sights ? Was thinking of popping over into France for Biarritz, and Hondarribia - any other good day trips ?

Also any other recs for Eating/drinking/driving will be gratefully received. Can't wait to get over there and start exploring :-)

Thanks in advance

Steve

Hi Steve,
I would change a little bit the amount of time you are planning in each city (mostly to allow you to do a couple of interesting daytrips from Bilbao). I might even do the following :
- 3 nights in Bilbao in a decent priced hotel (the Nervion is fine, and so are the Petit Hotel Arana, the Tryp Arenal, the Avenida or the Abba Parque)
- 3 nights in San Sebastian (I'll have to dig in my notes, but if you do a search for San Sebastian here, you will find many more hotels that the Reina Cristina being mentioned)
- Last night in Bilbao splurging at the Domine, the Carlton or the Miro (I still cannot bring myself to recommend the Sheraton until the works around it have finished ... and it will be a long time ...)

If you are not interested on modern art, but you like the more traditional form, visit the Museo de Bellas Artes de Bilbao, one of the biggies in Spain. It well deserves a visit, specially after the renovation.

As day trips, I would recommend you to head inland from Bilbao, direction Vitoria (the capital of Euskadi, a small city that not so many people visits, but that it is worth a stop, even if only to buy chocolate truffles in Goya ...) or Burgos (specially this year, Xacobeo in Santiago and Burgos is located in the Saint James Way). Another option would be to rent a car in Bilbao and visit some of the inland towns and mountains (Durango, Elorrio, go up to Urkiola), and then head towards places like Gernika, Bermeo, Bakio ... and enjoy the coast ...

From San Sebastian, Biarritz is a good day trip, I agree.

Food recommendations and more will follow.

BTW, I have also been tempted by those rates to Bristol. Anything interesting to do there during a long weekend?

Kind regards,
Cova

Thanks for the very useful info cova.

Have a look at www.visitbristol.co.uk for some info on Bristol. I live in Wales and commute to work in Bristol so don't really have the inside story on what is currently happening - But I'll try :-) :

There is nothing here to compete with the Guggenheim, or the Museo de Bellas Artes, but there are good restaurants and bars, and lots of interesting day trips.

In Bristol itself there is maritime heritage (SS Great Britain, Museums), and the Clifton Suspension Bridge.
There is a museum, but it is not particularly interesting. I'm sure there is much more - but it's strange how you don't realise as a local what your own area has to offer to visitors.

I would recommend a day trip to Bath, which is (as you probably know) a well preserved Roman city. (Roman/Georgian/Modern anyway). Easy to get there from Bristol by Bus/Train.

There are also interesting towns/villages in the Cotswolds, but you really need to hire a car to make the most of these.

My favourite would be to hire a car and explore the Welsh side of the border - Drive up the Wye Valley, then go and look at some of the great castles in the area - eg. Raglan, Chepstow, Cardiff. (Disclaimer: I am biased as I live in Wales)


Apologies to the Bristol Tourist board if I dont make it sound very attractive - It is actually a really nice city. I just don't have the powers of expression to do it justice :-)

Please post if you do decide to take advantage of Easyjet's ridiculously cheap fares and I'll try and help with hotel and restaurant info.

Thanks again

Steve

Cova,

Thanks for the suggestions for Bilbao day trips!!

How bad is the construction around the Sheraton? I know that all of Abandoibarra is "under development". We were able to get a very good rate at the Sheraton in mid-March. I'm willing to put up with some construction traffic in the area, but am concerned about the noise. Any information would be appreciated.

I'm also very interested to hear your food recomendations.

Thanks,

-- Chad

Hi Chad,
what I don't like about the Sheraton is that right now is a bit lonely. The Euskalduna (congress and concert hall) is nearby, and very lively on Thursdays and Fridays evenings when there are concerts (and I shouldn't forget the restaurant there, "Etxanobe", fully recommended), but on the other sides there are almost finished apartment buildings (empty), a big shopping center being built ( a bit eery late at night), works in order to cover the former railroad that went along the river ...

But to be a bit optimistic ... if the sun is shining on Sunday morning you will find plenty of people strolling along the new river promenade, and the rates are really good (but some of the services won't be open yet ...).

I don't think it will be very noisy (or at least, the windows should be double-glazed :) ), but if you are coming back late at night, I wouldn't walk right now, I would pick up a taxi ...

Rgds, Cova

Thanks for the information, Cova. Up to date information on the Sheraton is lacking. Their website has not been updated since long before the hotel opened. We will definitely use taxis when returning to the hotel at night.

-- Chad

I would recommend the Hotel Niza in San Sebastian. Very nice, convenient, and used to be reasonably priced. I've also stayed at the Hotel Galeria. Also very nice. It's a block from the beach but much farther from the old part of town.

Hi Steve,
I have posted a couple of recs on the following thread
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34466359 (maybe you will have to copy and paste it ...).

I am also posting this so that it might go up and Maribel (as she is back) can help you with the San Sebastian hotels ...

Bye, Cova

If you do stay at the Sheraton please could you let me know what it's like as I'm booked there this summer. It seems as if it's the only hotel that offers a swimming pool. Hotel Miro I contacted, however, they refused to offer me anything better than the rack rate - this is ridiculous, every hotel I have ever stayed at gives a rate better than the rack!

Thanks for the recommendations Cova.

Looking forward to seeing your part of Spain.

Currently thinking about the Tryp Orly in San Seb. Expedia have what seems to be a good rate at the moment. Does anyone have any experience of the Tryp Orly, especially in relation to the Niza which is the other hotel in the running ?

Steve

Steve,
Please stay at the Niza. You'll be much happier, and the location couldn't be more perfect or the price more right. Request a bay view room. The hotel is owned by the family of the late Basque sculptor, Eduardo Chillida, the welcome is warm and the rooms pleasant, and I highly recommend a trip out (via public bus or car) to his open air museum, the Chillida-Leku. A lovely place to spend a Sunday late morning or afternoon.
See www.eduardo-chillida.com/

You have gotten much good advice re hotels. However, you may have overlooked one of Cova's suggestions: Go inland, into the mountains, and you will begin to understand much more about he region. It really doesn't ,ale ,uch difference where you go - just get on one those roads and you'll understand a grat deal about the the soul of the place.

I have stayed at the Conde Duque (right at the footbridge across rio Nervion). It's a nice hotel in a good location. But, after visiting the Market (on the river just on the other side of the Casco Viejo) I decided the next time I visit Bilbao I will find a place with cooking facilities.

Frank Gehry's Titanium masterpiece is enough reason to visit the Guggenheim

I have been to San Sebastian and Biarritz but I'm not a great fan of that area. I would go west from Bilbao to Santander and spend a few days there as well as Santillana del Mar, Comillas, Liebana and the Picos de Europa. I think the scenery there in Cantabria is much nicer, especially if you drive from Unquera to Potes, Capital of Liebana: The gorge of the rio Deva is a 'white knuckler.'

Thanks for the continuing good info.

Looks like The Barcelo Nervion and the Hotel Niza is the plan at the moment.

I think we will save the Western side for the next trip, possibly when we go to Lisbon ?

As for cooking facilities in the room - sounds like a nice idea, but as we are only there for two nights I think we will be taking advantage of the pintxos/restaurants.

We certainly intend to drive inland. I am a bit of a wine bore so am going to drag my wife to Laguardia/Rioja area for one day (any ideas on wineries to visist ?). Would also like to see some of the more mountainous areas - Believe St. Jean Pied a Port has been recommended for this.

Three months seems such a long time to wait now :-)

Thanks

Steve

OK - Ignore the comment about doing the North west of Spain when visiting Lisbon. I've just looked at a map and realised that Lisbon isn't where I thought it was (but Porto is -hmm, another wine related holiday :-))

Also realised (like I didn't know) that Spain is a big place :-)

Hi Steve,

if you are thinking about Porto for a next wine holiday, you can join it with the south of Galicia and the Albariño regions : O Rosal, near the Miño river, and then Cambados. That will be a real treat :)

For your day trip to La Rioja, it will be better to depart from Bilbao than San Sebastian (rent a car for the day). I think that the subject has been beaten to death here, and there are so many wineries ... I personally like the small town of Labastida, with its views over the valley and the vineyards.
http://www.labastida-bastida.org/
If you like lamb chops, there is a nice, simple place there, Jatorrena. Their speciality : patatas a la riojana (an stew of potatoes with red peppers, simple but very nice) and roasted lamb chops. And they sell huge tins of peaches that are amazing ...

I think these threads can be helpful :
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...mp;tid=1379954
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...mp;tid=1380000

Bye, Cova

Thanks for the information cova. Really useful.

Hadn't seen those threads you linked to - Must get used to using the search facility.

Thanks again.

Steve,
As cova says, the Rioja Alavesa is closer to Bilbao than to S.S., so you should venture down there from Bilbao.
Laguardia is the capital of the Rioja Alavesa and better equipped for wine tourism than Labastida, although Labastida is certainly a lovely place to visit as well. I work for a Basque travel co. in the summer and take foreign visitors down to this area for winery tours. In Laguardia the winery with the most beautiful interior and the best reds by far is Bodegas Campillo, but it requires a prior appt. www.bodegascampillo.es
email pilar or miguelangel. But the new, state-of-the-art Santiago Calatrava designed Bodegas Ysios gives tours without a prior reservation and is an intersting option. Another Laguardia winery I can now highly recommend is Bodegas Heredad Ugarte, outside of town on the Haro road. I'll look up the hrs. in my Basque file for both and post later.

As for your Bilbao hotel, have you considered the very, very good value and new High Tech Petit Palace Arana? We were very impressed with the price-quality ratio, and it has a terrific location right at the Nervion at the edge of the Casco Viejo (Old Quarter), just a stroll away from the modern city and its major artery, the Gran Via (great shopping). There's also a stop for the Euskaltram right in front of the hotel which will transport you up to the Guggenheim in a snap.

We stay in a farmhouse in Hondarribia each summer for a week, and I highly recommend a short trip from S.S. to this charming, highly picturesque fishing village. From our perch in Hondarribia, we take day trips up to stunningly beautiful, highly manicured Biarritz, stopping at the smaller and more typically French Basque fishing village/resort of St. Jean de Luz along the way. You can also make a foray into the Pays Basque countryside down to lovely St. Jean Pied de Port, the major staging post for the Camino de Santiago pilgrims' route. It will be relatively quiet in April (chock a block with tourists/pilgrims in summer).

From S.S. if you really want to experience the rural Basque countryside in all its authentic Basque-ness, you might venture down to Tolosa (if it's Friday) for their famed outdoor farmers' market and a superb porterhouse steak (chuleton) at Casa Nicolas facing the river. This is an area where foreign visitors rarely tread.

If you decide to forgo the winery visit to the Rioja Alavesa, as cova says, a nice and easier day trip from Bilbao could be down into the Duranguesado valley, first to mansion-filled Elorrio, then venture to the tiny hamlet of Axpe, nestled under the shadow of Pico Amboto-spectacular scenery-and have the meal of a lifetime at the wonderful Etxebarri, next to the church and the pelota court. It looks like a local Basque tavern downstairs, but make your way upstairs and you'll find an extremely sophisticated dining room with a dynamite chef producing really memorable gourmet cuisine (but have your hotel reserve, as it's jam packed on wkds.).

Or as cova says, take a trip up to the really excellent Museo de la Paz in historic Gernika and continue on to the coast, through the Urdabai Biosphere to Mundaka, Bermeo.

Thanks for all the info Maribel.

I had looked at the Petit Palace Arana, but Expedia was showing it as being rather expensive. I've now had a look atheir web site directly and the rates quoted are much lower (always pays to shop around I guess).

Prices in Bilbao for two nights in April look something like this :

Tryp Arenal 81
Barcelo Nervion 105
Sirimiri 105
Petit Palace Arana 105
Abando 112
Vista Alegre 116
Carlton 154
Jardines de Albia 158
Silken Inautxu 162
Lopez du Haro 178
Sheraton 189
Conde Duque 204
De Deusto 207
Miro 221
Domine Bilbao 236
(btw: Some prices include tax some don't)

So on that basis the Petit Palace does look like a better bet than the Barcelo Nervion - Thanks for the advice.

As Rioja + wineries is easier from Bilbao I'm thinking about staying an extra day there and hiring the car whilst in Bilbao. How is driving around the city ? My guide book suggests this is pretty tricky (in terms of navigating). I've driven on the continent many times before so hopefully the actual process of driving in Spain shouldn't be too bad. My only concern really is getting lost, and not being able to park. My wife acts as navigator when we are driving aboard and she isn't particularly keen on driving in cities unless they are easy to get around.

Thanks again

Hi Steve,
We don't drive in Bilbao unless we're coming in for the day from the Gernika area (we also stay in a country home in the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve sometimes). We dump the car in the first underground garage we see because we don't like the city traffic.

The Petit Palace Arana doesn't have a garage, but they told us there was one down the street (cova would know exactly where-I don't have my Michelin guide at hand).
We discovered the Petit Palace Arana thanks to a great review by Jade, and cova posted that her friends had really enjoyed staying there, so we went to inspect it.

Here's another very good value, recently remodeled hotel option that cova mentioned:
The newly renovated "Abba Parque" on Rodriguez Arias, behind the Gran Via, in the Ensanche (new city), near the park and the San Mames futbol stadium.
It does have a handy underground garage. We used to stay there when it was the old fashioned Aranzazu, comfortable like an old shoe, before the snappy new look, finished last yr.
Our friends who run a large Basque tour co. use it for their clients. I see you don't have it on your list, but it's a nice, stylish option in the modern quarter, although a 15 min. walk to the Guggenheim.
I checked the rates for April, and a standard double runs 74,50, superior double, 92,50 (vat and brk. extra).
www.abbahotels.com
The Abba properties are nice. We know S.S.'s "Abba de Londres y de Inglaterra" and Pamplona's "Abba Reino de Navarra".

If you venture down to Laguardia from Bilbao, I do think you'd need another day. For info about this very unique, medieval walled wine town, see
www.laguardia-alava.com
Click on "services" and you'll see the list of wineries. I'll post visiting hrs./tours later.