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-   -   Rapallo v. Santa Margharita/Portofino in off season (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/rapallo-v-santa-margharita-portofino-in-off-season-396057/)

kellymp Jul 16th, 2008 09:12 AM

Rapallo v. Santa Margharita/Portofino in off season
 
I am traveling with my parents to the Italian Riviera late Nov this year. We will only be there three nights before moving on to Milan. I plan to also take them for a day trip to Cinque Terra. I've been to SML/Portofino before and thought that would be a nice home base for the 3 nights but am now considering Rapallo (but have never been there). Any thoughts?? Is Rapallo larger w/ more likely to be open? Any hotel advice is also welcomed...want ocean front preferably under $200/night (which seems doable in the off season based on the hotels in SML I have quotes from). Thanks for any help :)

zeppole Jul 16th, 2008 09:22 AM

Rapallo is a busy, substantial town and a bit less subject to the feel of depopulation come the end of summer -- which in Liguria can be quite late. I've eaten outdoors in the evening in early December, although one can't count on that. You could get rain, and chill. Even in May -- as we did this year.

I would expect restaurants to be open in Santa Margherita Ligure, and if you're there during the weekend and the weather is nice, you'll have lots of company in that sleepy town.

Two things to consider: It's a bit easier to take trains in and out of Rapallo, partly because you don't have to walk up and down hill to get to the station (it's not a hugely steep hill, but it's not flat). Also, Rapallo is a major stop on the line, whereas some trains (and buses) skip Santa Margherita Ligure sometimes.

Whichever town you pick, please remember that November is the month when a lot of places RENOVATE and paint, and do maintenence. Be sure to ask at your hotel if that will be going on in the hotel or just outside it.

Rapallo gets a lot of car traffic. Santa Margherita very little. If you liked what you experienced before in Santa Margherita Ligure, it's not likely to feel all that different in November.

SeaUrchin Jul 16th, 2008 09:23 AM

SML is a regular town so I don't see a problem in it being "open" in November. From what I saw of Rapallo it is also a regular town. Portofino may be quieter I would think.

kellymp Jul 17th, 2008 07:54 AM

Hi - Thanks guys...I was in SML in summer, but enjoyed it. My parents enjoy places like the Outer Banks of NC in the off season so I thought they may enjoy a few days in SML before we move on. I am crossing my fingers for a few sunny days :) At this point I am leaning toward keeping with the original plan of SML...although I really appreciate the point from Zeppole re:the trains being easier to get out of Rapallo. I may need to read a bit further...anyone else have an opinion?

Ninkette Jul 17th, 2008 10:25 AM

We stayed in SML in May and had no trouble getting around, catching a train, etc. Just get a train schedule from the tourist office (not available at the train station) so you know how to time your trips. If you've been to SML you know the hill up to the train station and if that would be an issue for your parents.


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