And another swig or two after.

Yes, he's Pepper von Snootful.

Thanks bvlenci. That's a much better system than the old one!

This thread has some great info -- thanks everyone!

I just want to thank everyone for all of your suggestions. We ended up adoring the Doria Pamphilj (notation all crowded on a Saturday), did take cabs and still managed a ton of walking. Had surprises at the churches like organ concerts or a temporary closure, ate well and I went twice to La Tavernetta. OMG the pasta was so good there.

The Borghese was so perfect and thanks so much for the Matisse suggestion-- well worth it. If anyone needs info on the Jewish Tour of the Vatican, let me know and we can discuss over email; it enriched my appreciation of the Sistine Chapel immensely. I know I could write one of those tour reviews but not gonna happen. I really just wanted to thank you all. My trip was so improved because of the suggestions I received here.

Jean - thanks for coming back.

it's great to know that so many of the suggestions here proved useful, one way or another.

Yes, Jean, thank you for letting us know that some of the suggestions paid off.

JeanT, thanks for reporting back and glad you had a good time. Sounds like an excellent visit.