Quick trip to Paris and Lake Annecy with kids
 

Good morning,

This year I have been focusing on our up and coming plans to travel to Indonesia with my parents and our children this July. But a few months ago I started to feel the familiar pull of Paris. I checked the low fare calendar of Norwegian airline and I was able to price out direct round trip tickets to Paris for around $400. I checked with my job and I was able to get a week off at the end of may till the beginning of June. My daughter's kindergarten teacher had never been to Europe but was dying to go (just not wanting to go alone), so I invited her to come along. And then my dear friend L. said she could meet us in Paris. My husband much prefers the smaller towns of France than Paris. I mentioned to him that we could maybe include lake Annecy and that Paris would be filled with carousels and picnics in the Luxembourg garden. A trip was born.

While I do not regret going, this trip had more than a few hiccups due to transportation problems. Also, it was just too short. I came back feeling unsatisfied as if I has just taken a few bites of a delicious meal and then it was taken from me. If only I could have made it 10 nights instead of 7... I think the kids wanted to travel longer as well. When we walked into my children's bedroom, coming back from the trip, my 2 years old started to cry saying she wanted to be at the hotel in Paris not home.

I can't complain.Je ne regrette rien. Last year we had 3 trips that went smoothly and were extraordinary. I was due for some misadventures.

Who is going: Myself, my husband, my 2 little girls (5 and 2 years old), my friend and colleague L., my daughter's kindergarten teacher K. My daughters' first language is French (like me, so please forgive any grammar mistakes as I write this).
Time frame: May 26th-June 2nd.
Must see on this trip: the garden of Luxembourg and lots of carrousels.
Budget: plane tickets $400; hotel rooms between 100-150$ a night; food: 3 restaurants, then the rest street food, picnics, breakfast at the hotel.

There were more than a few things that I could not see during this trip because it was closed due to renovations. I knew this before hand and I will have to go back in 2019. The house of Victor Hugo is closed. Ditto for the museum of Carnavalet. Same for the medieval museum, to see the Lady and Unicorn tapestry.

We had 2 carry-ons, 2 medium size backpacks, a pockit stroller and a ergo baby carrier. We could have had half the stuff. Before leaving the forecast was showing rain every day with a low of 55F. It rarely rained and the weather was beautiful, in the low 70's.

The plan was 2 nights in Talloires on Lake Annecy and 4 nights in Paris.

The Norwegian airline plane left late. 4 hours late. Instead of leaving at 8:50pm, it was past midnight. I had bought separate inexpensive one way flight from Paris Charles de Gaulle to Geneva, departing 5 hours after landing. The original plan was to drive from Geneva to Annecy and spend 2 nights in Talloires. After missing our connection, we pondered what to do while the children devoured their first chocolate éclair. The kindergarten teacher K, was just happy and excited to be in France, even if it was only the airport. I suggested we could look for a last minute hotel in Paris on the right bank, since our reservation later this week are on the left bank (l'Hôtel des Grandes Écoles in the 5th). That way we would have a different neighborhood to explore. But the pull of the mountains and crystal clear lake was strong, especially for my husband.

I bought another chocolate éclair for the kids and left them all to talk to both Air France (the original ticketing agent for the Paris-Geneva) and train station. The agent in Air France was very nice even though our tickets were not refundable, he was willing to rebook us for a minimal fee. But all later flights were full. However he urged me not to give up on Annecy as he only had one night there 15 years ago and still remembered it's beauty. The train station employe also was very kind. It took a while to find a possible route since there were still strikes going on. He also strongly recommended that continue our journey to lake Annecy. I came back to find my family and showed them the newly bought train tickets. I called our hotel in Talloires and arranged for a taxi to meet us outside the train station in Annecy.

We got into our hotel in Talloires a little after midnight (instead of the original 3pm), weary but excited. Our hotel, Le Logis la Charpenterie cost us around $120 for a family room. K had her own single room which was less. Both rooms had a balcony. While not being directly on lake like more famous accommodations like the Abbey of Talloires, it was comfortable, spacious rooms and the staff was very friendly. We were a 3 minutes walk to the lake shore.

The kids had a bath and were still wide awake jumping on the beds. But they eventually fell asleep. I put the alarm on my iphone for 9am.

The following day was as perfect as a day can be while exploring a new destination. The strain of the day before faded away while we admired the scenery of lake Annecy. After breakfast ( and lots of coffee for mommy) we walked the charming small village of Talloires. K told us that she did not want to miss anything. I think if I had told her to meet us in the breakfast room at 5am instead of 9:30 am she would have still been excited. She actually spent time on her balcony that morning admiring the mountains and facetiming with her twin sister. I love to travel with people full of enthusiasm.

We took the ferry that goes around the lake. In the distance we could see the tall mountains with the white snow on the top. The sun was out and the breeze from the lake was just enough. We got off the ferry in Annecy and strolled through the streets. We stopped for ice cream and fed the swans some bread. There is a playground on the shore and our eldest played there with some local girls. Our youngest fell asleep in the stroller.

When I travel with my children, I do not follow a set schedule. They sleep and eat when they want. At home it is a lot stricter. Bedtime at home: 7:30pm; when traveling: around 10pm; food at home: lots of vegetables, fruits, rarely processed food; on vacation: ice cream and croissant are their own food groups. But my daughters are adventurous eaters (octopus salad anyone? oui maman) so I don't worry about it.

We rented some bicycles. I had the two girls in a large basket in front. It took some getting use to and I was grateful for the electric assitance on the bicycle. It also reminded me that I really need to start teaching my eldest how to pedal without training wheels. The first part of the trail is next to the street with cars, which I did not like. But soon, it is it's own beautiful bicycle path. We pedaled a bit past Sévrier. The fruit trees already had unripe cherries on them.

We took the ferry back to Talloires. The schedule is limited so it pays to know it. We saw a couple in their 60's running towards the boat and missing it by 30 seconds. The Captain came back to get them since it was the last one of the day. We showered, changed and had a low key dinner at the hotel. Later we took another walk through the village. Past the Abbey, along the shore there is a path. It seems to stop in front of a private residence, but if you look carefully, there is a precarious path that continues next to the water all the way to a forested area (la réserve naturelle du Roc de Chere). At that point there are two paths, one going straight up, the other continuing to hug the shore.

To my eldest daughter's cruel disappointment, we had to turn back since it was now very dark. She insisted that I wake her up early tomorrow morning to continue our exploration.

I let my daughter sleep in (which in her world is 7am); after a long breakfast we packed and met our driver. Originally we were supposed to have a rental car. Also 2 weeks ago, my tickets Annecy to Paris were cancelled due to a train strike in France. Trains from Lyon to Paris were still running, so I had exchanged my original tickets to new ones departing from Lyon (about 1h 30min from Annecy). We worked up a deal with the taxi driver who pick us up from the train station in Annecy on our first night. He drove us to Lyon. It was an unexpected expense but it made for very smooth travel. Our train was not leaving till 1pm, so we were not rushed.

We arrived at l'Hôtel des Grandes Écoles in the 5th arrondissement 2 minutes before my friend L arrived. After a joyful reunion, I changed the girls into pretty dresses and we caught our boat (les vedettes de paris) next to Pont Marie. A cruise on the Seine is IMO a excellent introduction to someone who has never been to Paris. A lot of key monuments can be seen. Plus being on the water is always fun.

We got off next to the Eiffel tower were the kids rode their first carousel. Last time we were in Paris was 2013 when our eldest was not even a year old. It was fun to take pictures and walk around. Of course there is another playground on les Champs de Mars where kids played and the adults talked. I like les vedettes de paris because you can stop at the Eiffel tower and re board later. We had crepes au sucre and des crepes with cheese and ham. From le pont Marie, where the boat leaves you, we walked to our hotel.

I liked l'Hôtel des Grandes Écoles very much. It has a quiet inner courtyard with flowers, so it is a bit like being in the countryside within Paris. The rooms are around 130 euros. K. and L. , shared a room. From the hotel we were next to the rue Mouffetard and the Place Contrescarpe. We are very close to La Sorbonne, le Pantheon and of course the garden of Luxembourg. It does not have air conditioning, so it could be problematic in July and August. We slept very well with the windows open.

The following day we had a bicycle tour with Paris Charms and Secrets. It departed from Place Vendome at 9:30am. I really like to walk the streets of Paris. I feel like there is something interesting at every corner. I left with kids and K. and it took us about 45 minutes slowly. My husband and L choose to Über it. Part of our bicycle tour was also a Dutch couple dressed smartly city chic outfit and they never broke a sweat. There was also another American family with their 5 years old daughter to my children's delight.

The bicycle tour was 5 hours and was the highlight of our short trip to Paris. We had an excellent guide, we were a small group, and for those who wanted, the bicycles had electric assistance. After the tour we all had lunch together (sandwiches) in le jardin des Tuileries, were the girls went for several rides on the carousel.

While at the Procope during the bicycle tour, I made reservations for that night at 7pm, specifying to be upstairs. I am passionate about French history, especially the French Revolution. On the second floor at the Procope, you can see two original desks, one belonging to Rousseau and the other to Voltaire. You can also read the last letter of Queen Marie Antoinette saying goodbye to her children at 4:30am. You can read also the letter from King Louis XVI asking for some time before being beheaded, to pray and face his death. The request was denied. You can also see the letter that Robespierre was writing just before being arrested: he only signs the R and the O and he is unable to continue.

I'm enjoying your account. More, please!

The following day, the two single gals K. and L. left (at my encouragements) on their own so they can enjoy Paris children free. My family and I visited the Panthéon. I had my husband watch the children while I went down to the crypt. I wanted a moment alone to say thank you to these great men and women of France who gave me so much. I feel particularly grateful to Victor Hugo, Émile Zola, Alexandre Dumas and Antoine Saint-Exupery.

There is an app on the iphone called ducktheline and it is to climb Notre Dame without waiting in line. It was our turn, so we walked from the Panthéon to Notre Dame. The children kept imagining they were looking for an elusive Quasimodo. Lunch was all about des soufflés at La Cuisine de Philippe where we reconnected with our friends K. and L. From there, my husband and K went to the Louvre, L. went shopping on rue Mouffetard, and I took the children to my favorite park: the Luxembourg garden (it is also the garden where Marius and Cosette meet, if you are a fan of Les Misérables).

First on the agenda was renting the small sail boats. My two years old wanted the one with the seahorse; my five years old wanted the one with the Greek flag (her favorite country after Italy). With a long wooden stick, you push your boats along in a large fountain. Once they grew tired of the sailboats, we went to the best carousel on the planet, where the children are given a spear and as the carousel turns, the goal is to grab a metal ring with your spear. At the end, the attendant counts how many you have. "Dix-huit! Maman j'ai dix-huit anneaux!" screams my eldest. My youngest is just happy to hold her stick up. We go for several more turns.

Next to the carousel we buy more crêpes and ice cream. There is also a pretty extensive playground where they play for an hour. Coming back, I stop in a book store to stock up on children French books. At the hotel, I change into evening clothes but keep my flat sandals. My husband goes on rue Mouffetard with the kids to grab dinner. Tonight I go out alone to see La Locandiera at La Comédie Française! I very excited and my ticket is front row. I decide to walk, and the evening is delicious. How I love walking in Paris!

However, as I try to go in, the doors are locked! A man says in French "Sorry Miss, where you here for the play? We are on strike. We have sent emails. Here is a website you can go on to get reimbursed." I am disappointed. So I walk back, but I take my time. I feel very light since I don't have any children with me. I take unhurried pictures of Paris. Some people speak to me Russian; I don't speak it but I can look Russian (my mother' is Russian). I just smile but walk faster with a purpose. By the time I get to the hotel courtyard it is getting darker. My husband saved me sushi, chicken and a green salad. The adults drink champagne and my daughters play hide and seek.

This morning we leave for Sainte-Chapelle; we are close to opening time and so there are no lines to go in. L. chose to sleep in. After Sainte-Chapelle, we visit La Conciergerie, check out Queen Marie Antoinette's cell, and read about the condition of prisoners during the French Revolution.

We picnic in the gardens behind Notre Dame (Park Jean XXIII). My babysitter in the States is an elderly woman that I adore. Her grand-daughter lives in Paris and she is good friends with my eldest. We meet her and her mom in front of Sainte-Chapelle. Her mom C. has to be back to work (it is a Friday). We have now 3 children with us: 9, 5 and 2. But our little addition is very polite and immediately assume the role of big sister. We walk a little bit over île Saint-Louis. Eventually we find ourselves in the Garden of Luxembourg and the girls have a repeat of their afternoon yesterday but this time with their new friend. However around 4:30pm we all jump in a large Über and go in the Orangerie Museum for an hour. I tell the girls to pick two paintings that they like and for the Monet water lilies too look at them close and then far. It is a huge success with the older two "Wow! How did he do that!". We eat a carrot cake in the café at the museum.

We end the evening in our little courtyard again, drinking champagne, eating food from Rue Mouffetard and the children playing hide and seek. C. comes and pick up her daughter.

The next day we have a 2pm return flight to the States. The morning is unhurried. Our flight leaves on time but when we arrive we have to wait 1h and 30 min before getting off the plane. We are told multiple planes have arrived at the same time and border control does not have the space for us. Finally we make it home.

What a wonderful trip for all of you!

Thank you Kathie!

What a great trip. I so admire your energy and ability to roll with the punches. Apparently your children have inherited a great deal of that as well. Thanks for your report. We are just back from a trip to Paris and Loire with our grand children. We too had to work around the rail strike but were lucky to have timely flights. I, too, love Annecy. Happy that you got to spend some time there. I hope your next trip goes more smoothly.

Sounds like a wonderful trip with great kids. I was in Annecy way back in 2005 and loved it. Need to go back....

@JulieVikmanis: I read your trip report with enthusiasm, especially the parts about your grandchildren.

@thursdaysd: I agree that Annecy is very beautiful. Next time in that area, I would book a gîte for a week. I could see myself living in Annecy easily, more so than Paris.

What I liked the most about our trip: the beautiful scenery, master piece buildings, parks and fountains, fresh food, History at every doorway, every corner, people speaking my language, the feeling of being home, the depth of conversations.

What I liked the least: the constant cigarette smoking, the smell of urine in the streets that you find in every big city, Paris or New York. What broke my heart is seeing babies or toddlers homeless in the street, crying on dirty mattresses with their disheveled mother, next to les Deux Magots and along St Germain-des-pres boulevard.

Great report! My husband and I are taking our kids (will be 7 & 4 at time of travel) to Paris next spring. Hearing about your lovely playground time and great ideas on how to engage at art museums was lovely. Did the kids enjoy the bike tour themselves? Or did they find it too long? Did your 5-year-old enjoy the content?

Thanks for sharing your trip!

Loved your report - thank you. I am particularly impressed that you were so calm and organised when you missed your connecting flight: Well done you!

I have not been to Annecy in a couple of decades. You have put it back on my agenda :)

Regards ... Ger

@craze17: Have fun in Paris! Your children will love it! The bicycle ride was a hit across all ages. The kids though it was really fun to be on the back of the bicycle of either mommy or daddy. Every time the guide stopped to talk, we took the kids out of their seat and they could play safely. It was either on square or a park. It helped that we had another 5 years old with us, who made instant friends with my daughters. The following morning, the children asked if we could do it again. My 5 years old enjoyed some content, she followed with interest the battle of Austerlitz and Napoleon because the guide was very descriptive. She got really upset when she realized they beheaded Marie-Antoinette. She actually cried. It did not help to say that it happened a very long time ago. The time awareness is skewed at that age. But for the most part she just enjoying running in the gardens of the Palais Royal.

@OReilly: Thank you for thinking I was organized. Honestly, I kept thinking there are no wrong choices here: 2 extra days to Paris or a quick glimpse of Annecy. I am glad we persevered but it made for a very long day of travel after a transatlantic flight.

Wonderful report, TV! Haven't been in Annecy in years and now am making a note to be sure to go back. Living in France now, we are constantly amazed at how many, many wonderful places are just a train ride away. We could literally live on the rails and never be disappointed, but of course it's not a hardship just to stay put, either.

@StCirq: Thank you for your comments. And thank you again for your help last year when we went to Sarlat.

Wonderful trip report, thanks for sharing! I loved reading it, not only for great ideas on what to do with kids in Paris/Lake Annecy, but also on great ideas on how to keep kids entertained on trips. Good job rolling with the punches and staying calm under pressure :)

I am glad you liked it!