Questions about sarlat and beynac and dordogne in general
 

We are looking at a green Michelin Guide of the Dordogne.My goodness what a lot to see!!

Is it possible to stay in Sarlat or Beynac and go to most of the places from there. (the top sights). I realize we would only be seeing one portion of the Dordogne but there is always next year!!

I understand Sarlat is crowded. Would we be better staying in Beynac and if so are there good places to eat? (my husband's question) or is food in Sarlat better?. Maybe just visit Sarlat ... the market,etc. We don't drive at night so like to be based where we can walk to eat if possible.
Suggestions for hotels are welcome.

Now I understand why so many of you go back so many times...my head is spinning.

About 80% of the "biggies" in the Dordogne can easily be reached from the Sarlat area.

The one exception would be the area around St Cere - to the east of Souillac. You might be tempted to see Rocamadour, Padirac, Loubressac, Autoire, Montal chateau, St Cere, Castelneau Bretenoux, Beauleau sur Dordogne, Carrannac, and Martel on one swing. It can't be done. Padirac and Castelau Bretenoux will each (not together) consume most of the entire morning. We stay in a Gite near Domme, and when we want to visit this area, we pack our bags & do an overnight.

With the completion of the A20 freeway, you can visit St Cirq Lapopie & Pech Merle in a day trip - even time to hit Cahors or Figeac on the way back if you get an early start.

Brantome is a bit too far away, if you are only going to be in the area for a few days, It's a cute town, but I think it's a 1 1/2 to 2 hr drive to get there, and perhaps not a good investment of time, if you have limited time. If you do decide to visit Brantome, also include Perigueux and Bourdeilles on the same trip.

If you stay in Sarlat, it will take more time to get in/out & it can be frustrating if you do so at the "wrong" time (during the market). I would stay in Beynac or Roque Gageac. These two village are 10 mins apart & there are several restaurants in both towns - actually better restaurants than those in Sarlat, IMO.

We've vacationed for over 4 weeks in the Dordogne in recent years - back for 4 more weeks this Sept. I developed a 20+ page itinerary for touring this area.
E-mail me at [email protected] if you want a copy.

Stu Dudley

I don't know how much time you have in the Dordogne, but yes, the area around Sarlat is where it's all "happening" in the Périgord. As Stu says, you can make daytrips (albeint long ones) to sites like Collonges-la-Rouge and the Gouffre de Padirac and Martel and Souillac in a day, and go even farther if you want to. But the main attractions are within about a 40-km radius of Sarlat.
I forget what time of year you're going, but if it's peak season, I'd stay outside Sarlat and, if you want to go to market, plan on an early start to the day (or a long and hilly walk). Sarlat's no restaurant mecca, even if it is the capital town of one of France's most renowned gastronomic areas. There are better restaurants elsewhere. Some of my favorites are:

The Belle Etoile in La Roque Gageac

The Plume d'Oie in La Roque Gageac

La Table de Terroir in La-Chapelle-Aubareil

La Bastide in Monpazier

L'Esplanade in Domme

L'Oustalou in Le Bugue

Le Relais des Cinq Châteaux in Vitrac

Auberge de la Truffe in Sorges

Le Moulin de la Beune in Les Eyzies

La Rosearai in Montignac

La Roque Gageac is a better bet for restaurants than Beynac. Domme is also a good choice, or Le Bugue, or St-Cyprien.

Wow..thanks so much. This thread is invaluable to me. ...

An answer to your quesations. We will be there September for 5 to 6 days or however much we need..Stu I have your itinerary but needed to get down to basics first. It's all so overwhelming.

Thank you

We stayed at le Pelissaria in St. Cirq La Popie a few years back and it has a marvelous view, but as St. Cirq advised about Domme with it's own superb view from l'Esplanade, you will spent a portion of your time climbing and descending the cliff. One beautiful, relaxing place on the Dordogne that many people don't know about is the Pont de l'Ouysse. The chef owner is fantastic, the setting is idyllic with the old bridge and a view of the Chateau Belcastel. It is on the S. side of the river across from Soulliac, just outside LaCave, close to the more touristy Chateau de la Treyne, but the locals feel the food is better. I very much agree after 2 visits. The scenery along this meandering stretch of the river is gorgeous; if time permits, drive it at least as far as the charming village of Carennac.