Quality time with the Pope, and other stories of my trip to Italy!!
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Quality time with the Pope, and other stories of my trip to Italy!!
Am finally back from a great trip to Rome and am going to try my first trip report. This was my third trip to Rome, and fellow Fodorites really helped in making it one of my best trips ever. With that said, here goes...
delightfully uneventful trip over on American Airlines. The only thing I learned was that a 1/2 full 3.5 container of toothpaste still counts as over 3 ounces, and therefore was pitched before getting on the plane. (new math told me that I was only carrying 1.75 oz of gel, but being on holiday, I was in no mood to quibble.)
Arrived in Rome, and took the train to Termini - transfer was smooth as could be. Picked up a (real) cab at the station. However, a public demonstration was going on and all streets around Piazza Venezia were closed. Cab driver finally gave up and threw me out at the Colisseum. I wouldn't have minded walking, but was still dressed in Kentucky weather clothing (read turtleneck and vest.) Since it was 85 degrees, I was QUITE odiferous by the time I made it to the hotel. (Tip #1 - splurge on the shuttle next time - they'll charge the same no matter how mnay streets you have to go down to find a way to get to the hotel.) This leads me to wonderful tip #2....)
LOCANDA SENATORUM - I Loved staying here!!! It is on Via dei Sedinari, between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. (2 minutes or less to each of these destinations, and I am NOT a fast walker.) It was also perfectly located for catching buses - the Torre Argentina stop was also 2 minutes away, and I had the pleasure of checking on the kitties at the sanctuary every morning. Hotel is on the 2nd floor and there is no lift, but if that is not a problem, this place was the perfect location, and $125 Euros per night for a single. Since it was 2:00pm, I immediately became Roman, and gave myself permission for a nap. (one of my favorite activities. I need to live in a country that shares my high regard for the fine art of afternoon dozing.)
Upon arising (and changing into sleeveless tops with a light sweater for evening hours) it was time to explore. My first stop is always the Pantheon - this structure just calls to me. (didn't hurt that I was reading that trashy Angels and Demons, either!!) Had an early dinner in Piazza della Rotunda and enjoyed the change in lighting as evening fell. A perfect first night ended with a choral concert at San Ignazio, around the corner from the Pantheon. If you enjoy sacred choral music, there are concerts scheduled there almost every weekend, at 9:00pm.
check www.amicimusicasacra.com for their schedule.
delightfully uneventful trip over on American Airlines. The only thing I learned was that a 1/2 full 3.5 container of toothpaste still counts as over 3 ounces, and therefore was pitched before getting on the plane. (new math told me that I was only carrying 1.75 oz of gel, but being on holiday, I was in no mood to quibble.)
Arrived in Rome, and took the train to Termini - transfer was smooth as could be. Picked up a (real) cab at the station. However, a public demonstration was going on and all streets around Piazza Venezia were closed. Cab driver finally gave up and threw me out at the Colisseum. I wouldn't have minded walking, but was still dressed in Kentucky weather clothing (read turtleneck and vest.) Since it was 85 degrees, I was QUITE odiferous by the time I made it to the hotel. (Tip #1 - splurge on the shuttle next time - they'll charge the same no matter how mnay streets you have to go down to find a way to get to the hotel.) This leads me to wonderful tip #2....)
LOCANDA SENATORUM - I Loved staying here!!! It is on Via dei Sedinari, between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. (2 minutes or less to each of these destinations, and I am NOT a fast walker.) It was also perfectly located for catching buses - the Torre Argentina stop was also 2 minutes away, and I had the pleasure of checking on the kitties at the sanctuary every morning. Hotel is on the 2nd floor and there is no lift, but if that is not a problem, this place was the perfect location, and $125 Euros per night for a single. Since it was 2:00pm, I immediately became Roman, and gave myself permission for a nap. (one of my favorite activities. I need to live in a country that shares my high regard for the fine art of afternoon dozing.)
Upon arising (and changing into sleeveless tops with a light sweater for evening hours) it was time to explore. My first stop is always the Pantheon - this structure just calls to me. (didn't hurt that I was reading that trashy Angels and Demons, either!!) Had an early dinner in Piazza della Rotunda and enjoyed the change in lighting as evening fell. A perfect first night ended with a choral concert at San Ignazio, around the corner from the Pantheon. If you enjoy sacred choral music, there are concerts scheduled there almost every weekend, at 9:00pm.
check www.amicimusicasacra.com for their schedule.
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am determined to not drag on by doing "on Day 2, I saw...." Instead, thought I'd focus on some of the things that made my trip so wonderful - hope they give you some ideas of your own!
Context Rome is as wonderful as everyone says!! After 2 previous trips to Rome where we "saw" the Colosseum, I was determined to actually get in the damn building!! At the advice of fellow Fodorites, I signed up with Context (for the Palatine, Fourum and Colosseum tour) - worth every penny!! Our docent was Carlos Machado - I'm in Love!!! Adorably cute, great accent (originally from Brazil!) and his doctorate in history - my perfect man! I had just read "Imperium" by Harris the night before this tour - great background and as Carlos was also reading the book, we were able to discuss various events in the story and relate them to the sites we were seeing. There were 5 in our group - a perfect size so that everyone could join in conversation.
The Mamertine Prison.... for being only 100 steps or so from the Forum, I entered into another world. There was at least a 5 minute period where I was alone in the cell where Peter was kept. Doesn't sound like a long time, does it? However, going from the crowded, sunny, noisy Forum, to this quiet, dark, slightly fetid underground cell was a very powerful experience. And it was followed by a major highlight -
The Scavi tour.... the most incredible conclusion possible to my time in Rome. The day before, I was at St Peters for a canonization (more stories about that later) and saw the majesty, rites, and ceremony of the Catholic church. During the Scavi tour, I saw its humanity. Every thing I try to write about my emotions here sounds incredibly corny/trite, so I'll just say that standing before the bones of Peter was incredibly humbling, and something I'll always remember.
Hope I haven't scared everyone away with my emotions - I'll close for the evening with an unexpected moment - I had climbed quite a way to check out a great little church - San Andrea Al Quirinale. As I started back down the hill a couple of minutes before 19:00, I suddenly heard music and came upon the changing of the guard in front of the presidential palace ( a building I hadn't even noticed in my hurry to get to the church before closing time!!) A serendipitous moment crowned by a spectacular view of domes floating in the Roman sunset. Can't imaging ever writing "I didn't notice the White House as I was walking down the street" - says something about the intimate scale of Rome that everything is so accessible.
Context Rome is as wonderful as everyone says!! After 2 previous trips to Rome where we "saw" the Colosseum, I was determined to actually get in the damn building!! At the advice of fellow Fodorites, I signed up with Context (for the Palatine, Fourum and Colosseum tour) - worth every penny!! Our docent was Carlos Machado - I'm in Love!!! Adorably cute, great accent (originally from Brazil!) and his doctorate in history - my perfect man! I had just read "Imperium" by Harris the night before this tour - great background and as Carlos was also reading the book, we were able to discuss various events in the story and relate them to the sites we were seeing. There were 5 in our group - a perfect size so that everyone could join in conversation.
The Mamertine Prison.... for being only 100 steps or so from the Forum, I entered into another world. There was at least a 5 minute period where I was alone in the cell where Peter was kept. Doesn't sound like a long time, does it? However, going from the crowded, sunny, noisy Forum, to this quiet, dark, slightly fetid underground cell was a very powerful experience. And it was followed by a major highlight -
The Scavi tour.... the most incredible conclusion possible to my time in Rome. The day before, I was at St Peters for a canonization (more stories about that later) and saw the majesty, rites, and ceremony of the Catholic church. During the Scavi tour, I saw its humanity. Every thing I try to write about my emotions here sounds incredibly corny/trite, so I'll just say that standing before the bones of Peter was incredibly humbling, and something I'll always remember.
Hope I haven't scared everyone away with my emotions - I'll close for the evening with an unexpected moment - I had climbed quite a way to check out a great little church - San Andrea Al Quirinale. As I started back down the hill a couple of minutes before 19:00, I suddenly heard music and came upon the changing of the guard in front of the presidential palace ( a building I hadn't even noticed in my hurry to get to the church before closing time!!) A serendipitous moment crowned by a spectacular view of domes floating in the Roman sunset. Can't imaging ever writing "I didn't notice the White House as I was walking down the street" - says something about the intimate scale of Rome that everything is so accessible.
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adrienne
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Nov 4th, 2003 04:09 PM