I spent a night in Bari this past March, and wished I'd scheduled to spend 2 there. Loved the town! And it's compact enough to walk everywhere from the train station (assuming no mobility problems).

Another vote for Nadia in Matera. She was awesome.

One night in Bari was enough for us. Interesting to walk through. Young vibe because of the university in town. We enjoyed the other cities we visited throughout our 2 weeks in Puglia much, much more than Bari.

I wrote a TR. You're welcome to check it out to see our route through Italy's heel. You can find it by clicking on my screen name.

Have fun.

Robbie

Another vote for Nadia's tour of Matera, we loved it.

FWIW, I didn't feel that I needed a tour guide in Matera -- I used printed information instead. YMMV.

Nice TR Robbie, thanks.

Nadia grew up in Matera during the time when the Sassi were occupied. Her perspective added an interesting sidelight to our time with her. I agree you could use printed material, but sometimes a guide enriches the experience and Nadia did just that.

@ yestravel -- I can see how that personal perspective could add to one's experience. Thanks for clarifying!

As with so many things, it probably all depends on one's preferences and budget and timing, etc.

"out of interest, why does Bari not get recommended?"

Because it's got a bit of a reputation.

For many people in Puglia it's seen as somewhere you only really want to go if you must, which is a real shame as there's some real beauty in the old town itself.

My partner (who's from Alberobello) doesn't really like it because it's a bit too "noisy" and there's not really much to do there from a leisure point of view, but to the foreign outsider it's spectacular.

Not only is Bari Vecchia one of the nicest and best preserved oldest parts of Puglia, it's also highly interesting to walk around for when you occasionally catch a "Nonna" making fresh pasta in the early hours of the morning before lunch.

Outside of the old town there's one of the oldest fort/castles in the south, plus the shopping streets are filled with some really nice cafes and bars that only locals really visit.

The beauty of Bari for me is that no one really goes there, which is all the more reason to visit!

Lastly, if I had to compare it with anywhere else I've been then I'd have to select Marseille, so if you've been there you know what to expect.

I forgot to add something about Matera!

Two nights there would be my personal recommendation, but a LONG day trip with an early start and late departure so that you can see the city in the best light, with the night lighting across the city being highly memorable.

Also, staying in Matera centre is quite expensive. Seeing as you have a car I'd recommend staying outside of the city to save money on accommodation which you can then put towards petrol.

Oh, yes -- seeing Matera during the day and at sunset and lit up at night is worth savoring!

"Also, staying in Matera centre is quite expensive. Seeing as you have a car I'd recommend staying outside of the city to save money on accommodation...."

That might make a lot of sense. But for a different perspective, I'll note that staying in a cave hotel in Matera was, for me, a wonderfully unique and evocative experience. I won't pretend that it was authentic in any way, but it was memorable and I am VERY glad that I splurged for a decent stay in a sassi hotel! YMMV.

Adelaidean,

For what it's worth, Bari is the only place in Puglia I would be interested in revisiting. Despite its reputation for urban decay and petty crime, I found it to have a rather sunny disposition. It has a fascinating intact traditional culture in the heart of the historic center. Also, I had the best food and wine in Bari that I had in Puglia.

You might like the Gianrico Carofiglio books to understand the Italian legal system at its most transparent. Nearly all the stories are based around Bari

Spent 4 nights in Matera in early march and found it fascinating. A terrific restaurant I would highly recommend is Trattoria Caveoso. Excellent food (we ate there 2 nights) and owner goes out of his way to make you feel welcome and at home. He even drove us in his own car back to our hotel on the 2nd evening rather than have us wait for a taxi.

thanks Dale and sandralist, good to hear your thoughts, Bari is definitely on my radar when we do visit one day. I kind of like to mix up the experiences (picture postcard perfect towns and 'gritty' cities), it's all fascinating for us coming from Australia.

Hotel recs for Matera, please.

Will be staying for the above recommended 2 nights in Sept, after a week in an apartment in Lecce.

Thanks!

I enjoyed the Locanda di San Martino in Matera, which still seems to get good reviews:
http://www.locandadisanmartino.it/?lang=en

We stayed at L'Hotel in Pietra and ti was our favourite of the entire Italy trip. Couldn't recommend it to enough pople.

We stayed at "Fra I Sassi Residence" a few years ago. Good location. The proprietor, Domenico, was fantastic. Very welcoming. Nice modern room that was built into a cave. The bathroom was huge - the tub like a mini swimming pool! Great breakfast, too. We'd stay there again in a skinny minute.

Robbie

Hi mikster

Please feel free to read my travelogue of a recent trip to Matera & Puglia.

http://www.colin-julie.com/Puglia01.htm

I've completed the Matera section and am now busy writing the Puglia part.

Matera is a special place. We stayed for only two nights but with hindsight a third evening would have been better.

In Puglia we based ourselves in Alberobello staying in a traditional trullo. A wonderful and unforgettable experience.

We also spent one night in Lecce which was well worth the effort. A beautiful city not to be missed!

Another great report, Colin. Looking forward to you finishing the rest of it.