Puglia, and a touch of Rome
Sep 23rd, 2016, 12:30 AM
#22
Ann, Puglia is not very hilly at all, the north is based on a plateau (the Murge) which is about 300m up and level, while down in the south it is equally flat. But a lot of the older cities are mounted on volcanic stumps so they rise out of the plain like pimples. I know, I've ridden it.
Sep 23rd, 2016, 06:37 AM
#24
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A GREAT REPORT! I've never been to Puglia, it must be a wonderful place.
But I know that it's really hot in Summer, so maybe the best season is May or September? what do you suggest Jubilada if I would like to plan a visit?
But I know that it's really hot in Summer, so maybe the best season is May or September? what do you suggest Jubilada if I would like to plan a visit?
Sep 23rd, 2016, 08:22 AM
#25
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Yes, may or September. May is liable to be rainier.
We spent the day meandering down the very scenic coast from here to Gallipoli, the old part of which is on an island. It has several interesting castles and cathedrals , and the streets twist and turn at will.
Lots of open doors where we could see families cooking and eating their lunches.
We had our first bad meal. We had planned a visit tons place highly recommended which is known for its sea urchin, a locL delicacy.
It was closed, perhaps after summer it no longer opens for lunch. I was hot tired and cranky so we popped into a promising looking place, yuck.
But a cafe granita con pan heals all wounds.
Most of the day was spent exploring the little coastal towns, each different from the other in architecture and character . The sea is gorgeous here .we need the day by renting some chairs at a local lido in a small town and having a delicious swim.
We find the Salento to have much to offer, though not perhaps so many sights per se. For us the joy of travel is
Mainly being in a place.
We spent the day meandering down the very scenic coast from here to Gallipoli, the old part of which is on an island. It has several interesting castles and cathedrals , and the streets twist and turn at will.
Lots of open doors where we could see families cooking and eating their lunches.
We had our first bad meal. We had planned a visit tons place highly recommended which is known for its sea urchin, a locL delicacy.
It was closed, perhaps after summer it no longer opens for lunch. I was hot tired and cranky so we popped into a promising looking place, yuck.
But a cafe granita con pan heals all wounds.
Most of the day was spent exploring the little coastal towns, each different from the other in architecture and character . The sea is gorgeous here .we need the day by renting some chairs at a local lido in a small town and having a delicious swim.
We find the Salento to have much to offer, though not perhaps so many sights per se. For us the joy of travel is
Mainly being in a place.
Sep 23rd, 2016, 09:28 AM
#27
But a lot of the older cities are mounted on volcanic stumps so they rise out of the plain like pimples. I know, I've ridden it.>>
pimples I can manage, bilbo, it's mountains I'm fed up with.
jubi - amazing that you are doing this on your phone, I soon gave up with that.
pimples I can manage, bilbo, it's mountains I'm fed up with.
jubi - amazing that you are doing this on your phone, I soon gave up with that.
Sep 23rd, 2016, 01:24 PM
#30
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<<May is liable to be rainier>>
I'm not so sure. Don't know when you have been but we had extremely bad weather (rain/thunderstorms, inundated roads) from the start of our trip on 7th September until a week later, after which it became hot and unbearably humid.
The weather really wasn't/isn't what we expected.
I'm not so sure. Don't know when you have been but we had extremely bad weather (rain/thunderstorms, inundated roads) from the start of our trip on 7th September until a week later, after which it became hot and unbearably humid.
The weather really wasn't/isn't what we expected.
Sep 24th, 2016, 09:10 AM
#31
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We didn't come until the 13th and we did have two hours of rain as well as some rain one night but for the past week it has been 75-80, sunny, not very humid. So I guess it varies region to region. No rain forcast for the next week either. Right now a blazing pink sunset.
Today we drove further down the coast the Leuca, where the Ionian and the Adriatic seas meet. A gorgeous drive through many small towns, each with different wonderful seashore and different character, all with castles and towers in various states of ruination and tiny chapels with frescoes.
Santa Maria de Leuca has a wonderful log house right outside the basilica .
Gorgeous villas, gardens. We did not take a bot trip into the grottoes there but will on another trip.
We had a great lunch ( fabulous seafood, simply prepared, as well as local specialties . And gelato.
We drove home as the sun set.
A really perfect day.
Today we drove further down the coast the Leuca, where the Ionian and the Adriatic seas meet. A gorgeous drive through many small towns, each with different wonderful seashore and different character, all with castles and towers in various states of ruination and tiny chapels with frescoes.
Santa Maria de Leuca has a wonderful log house right outside the basilica .
Gorgeous villas, gardens. We did not take a bot trip into the grottoes there but will on another trip.
We had a great lunch ( fabulous seafood, simply prepared, as well as local specialties . And gelato.
We drove home as the sun set.
A really perfect day.
Sep 25th, 2016, 07:09 AM
#33
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It is gorgeous again today: 78, breezy, sunny. Same is forcast for our ten remaining days!!
After a glass of fresh grape juice made by our host, we set off to more fully explore two of the town's near us. On the way we passed a very large bustling market. We bought some limes which turn out to be orange on the inside.
We then poked around Santa Maria al Bagno to find the memory Misuem which commemorates the Jewish community created during WW 2 by the 150,000 Jews who passed through here on their way to Palestine.
http://www.italymagazine.com/italy/p...ly-inaugurated
We found the signs to it but couldn't find it.
We then had an extravagant lunch overlooking the water and then wandered some more.
When we got to Tge town it was very bustling with Sunday activity of all kinds, walking , swimming, riding bikes, many people in cafes. But by 1 it was almost completely quiet other than restaurants. Time for lunch and then siesta.
Tomorrow: Lecce.
After a glass of fresh grape juice made by our host, we set off to more fully explore two of the town's near us. On the way we passed a very large bustling market. We bought some limes which turn out to be orange on the inside.
We then poked around Santa Maria al Bagno to find the memory Misuem which commemorates the Jewish community created during WW 2 by the 150,000 Jews who passed through here on their way to Palestine.
http://www.italymagazine.com/italy/p...ly-inaugurated
We found the signs to it but couldn't find it.
We then had an extravagant lunch overlooking the water and then wandered some more.
When we got to Tge town it was very bustling with Sunday activity of all kinds, walking , swimming, riding bikes, many people in cafes. But by 1 it was almost completely quiet other than restaurants. Time for lunch and then siesta.
Tomorrow: Lecce.
Sep 25th, 2016, 11:30 AM
#34
I am absolutely loving your trip report jubilada. You are doing Puglia right...your own way. I hope you enjoy every single moment.
Last week at this time I was in Rome eating a very thin (cracker crust) margharita pizza with some stuffed olives. We had just been to Ferentino, Italy, a hill town where my friend's ancestors were from. We stopped at a trattoria which looked open but wasn't, and the hosts insisted we stay. They baked a special lasagna just for us and brought us a tray of small bites while we were waiting. That little tray was heaven...salami, olives, small tuna sandwiches...the best I've ever eaten. I am nostalgic as you can see. t I hope we Americans (as a country) are as cordial to tourists as the Europeans were to us.
Anyway, I will be following your travels along with interest. I like your food descriptions. You know what you are describing so well. I imagine your wife is getting lots of artistic inspiration.
Last week at this time I was in Rome eating a very thin (cracker crust) margharita pizza with some stuffed olives. We had just been to Ferentino, Italy, a hill town where my friend's ancestors were from. We stopped at a trattoria which looked open but wasn't, and the hosts insisted we stay. They baked a special lasagna just for us and brought us a tray of small bites while we were waiting. That little tray was heaven...salami, olives, small tuna sandwiches...the best I've ever eaten. I am nostalgic as you can see. t I hope we Americans (as a country) are as cordial to tourists as the Europeans were to us.
Anyway, I will be following your travels along with interest. I like your food descriptions. You know what you are describing so well. I imagine your wife is getting lots of artistic inspiration.
Sep 25th, 2016, 09:29 PM
#36
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barbrn, I fear we as Americans are not nearly as welcoming to tourists. For one thing, we as a rule speak only one or two languages.
Our hostess at the current masseria
Speaks Italian, English, German, Spanish and some French!
Centralparkgirl, WFD is the ongoing What's for Dinner thread in the lounge.
I have been reporting in detail daily about meals there. You can find the current on under the food and wine tag, September part 2.
Yesterday's restaurant was called Art Nouveau . I'll include names of standouts henceforth.
Off topic: I saw in your profile that you will go to the Berkshires soon. Do you know Elizabeth's restaurant in Pittsfield?
Our hostess at the current masseria
Speaks Italian, English, German, Spanish and some French!
Centralparkgirl, WFD is the ongoing What's for Dinner thread in the lounge.
I have been reporting in detail daily about meals there. You can find the current on under the food and wine tag, September part 2.
Yesterday's restaurant was called Art Nouveau . I'll include names of standouts henceforth.
Off topic: I saw in your profile that you will go to the Berkshires soon. Do you know Elizabeth's restaurant in Pittsfield?
Sep 26th, 2016, 06:39 AM
#37
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We spent much of the day I Lecce, touted as the finest city in Puglia. Many gorgeous boroque facades and way over the top churches as well as a surprise, a Jewish museum. Lots of twisty old streets and alleyways, lovely door knobs and knockers, tons of cafes
It was an interesting place to visit but too many tour busses. All in all we preferred the less touted Martina Franca, also pretty boroque but to us felt more live able and more real.
This morning at breakfast one of our favorite moments of the trip.
There was another couple who my wife helped get checked in when they first came. They are a straight couple from Barcelona ; they speak no Italian, he a smattering of English, she and I high school French. We all four managed to have a joyful , numerous conversation in four languages and now we know someone who would like to show us Barcelona. For me this is the best part of travel, more than what I see or even more than what I eat.
We plan to go out to a local place specializing in raw shellfish for dinner.
It was an interesting place to visit but too many tour busses. All in all we preferred the less touted Martina Franca, also pretty boroque but to us felt more live able and more real.
This morning at breakfast one of our favorite moments of the trip.
There was another couple who my wife helped get checked in when they first came. They are a straight couple from Barcelona ; they speak no Italian, he a smattering of English, she and I high school French. We all four managed to have a joyful , numerous conversation in four languages and now we know someone who would like to show us Barcelona. For me this is the best part of travel, more than what I see or even more than what I eat.
We plan to go out to a local place specializing in raw shellfish for dinner.
