Provence, Vaucluse, & Luberon: sightseeing and dining advice?
 

Can anyone suggest some "must sees" and also some decent but not-too-expensive restaurants near Apt? We arrive via TGV in Avignon and will stay for 4 nights at a B&B in the tiny village of St Martin de Castillon just outside Apt. We hope to explore Gordes, Rousillon, and some of the other towns in the area for several days. When we leave Apt, we will drive to Cassis for the day, and then spend 2 nights in Aix, exploring the city. We leave Aix on Sunday and will stop at the Isle sur la Sorgue market on our way to Arles where we spend our final 3 nights. We hope to explore Arles, Aigues Mortes, Glanum and Uzes and to see the Pont du Gard. Based on the many favorable reviews here, we have booked for lunch at La Chassagnette, just outside of Arles. Otherwise we have no definite dining plans. I would greatly appreciate any advice, but particularly for the Luberon/Vaucluse. Thanks!

Kevin

Our favorite restaurant in the Luberon is Bernard Mathys - just a little west of Apt in the town of Le Chene. It's a large mansion in a very lovely setting. Barnard will most likely take your order and prepare your meal himself. We've dined there about 5 times over the past 10 years. It's by far our favorite in the Luberon. We've vacationed for about 5 weeks in the Luberon over the past 10 years, and another 8 weeks in other areas of Provence.

The only other restaurants we like as much as Bernard Mathys are all around Uzes, but that's too far for you to drive for dinner.

Do you have my 20+ page itinerary for Provence that I've sent to over 200 people on this & the aol message board? It has my favorite villages, scenic drives, markets, a "Provence Fabric" section, and a "Lavender Route" section. E-mail me at [email protected] if you want a copy, but don't wait too long - we head out for another stay in Provence in about 4 weeks.

Stu Dudley

Just below Gordes (on a side road winding down) is La Ferme de la Huppe,
an auberge with a fine restaurant. Prices are moderate, especially for what you get. The chef is the son of the owner and is now also the manager.

hi hikerboy, I'm so happy you booked La Chassagnette. Presentation is as lovely as the food. Go early so you can walk around the organic farm or to buy some things in the boutique.bar area.
We like Le Fournil in Bonnieux, Mesclun in Seguret, The Moulin de Lourmarin costs more but dining on the terrace and the food is special, the chef a protege of Marc Vayret. Near by in Silvergues you can book dinner at a goat farm, Les Castelas(the moulin's cheese comes from here.) But even thesimple cafés in the villages like Ansouis and Pertuis are a pleasanrt lunch stop. In Les Imberts, the Mas de Tourteron. There are so many more , these are the few we return to.

For casual but good dining in Uzes, we enjoyed Myou (near St. Theodorit) and Au Fil d'Eau, just off the Place des Herbes.

In the Vaucluse, we had a great meal at Le Fete en Provence in Vaison and a memorable lunch at Lou Cigalou in Beaumes-de-Venise.

I didn't mention Uzes and Nimes because they are in the Gard so not really in Provence. But If you have time, Uzes is delightful.

Just outside Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, le Mas de Cure Bourse for lunch or dinner.

I second the suggestion of Le Fournil in Bonnieux. One of our most memorable meals during our last trip to Provence was dinner at Bistro d'Eygalieres (in Eygalieres, near St. Remy). The food was sublime and the ambience very warm and inviting. If you do plan to dine there and are at all interested in gardening, try to also make time to visit Le Jardin d'Alchemiste, a fascinating garden open to the public at Mas de la Brune just outside Eygalieres.

Also the couple opened a less expensive but very good Petite Bru, just around the corner from the Bistro d'Eygaliers (Chez Bru)
In the hills of Les Baux, I like La Riboyo d Tavin.
In Aix, Clops de Violette but tres cher as is the Oustau de Baumaniere that is a special occassion place for those of us who can't afford it's prices routinely.
In Fontville, the La Rigalido,
In Paradou, Le Bistro du Paradou
In Arles, L'Affenage.

>>Bistro d'Eygalieres (in Eygalieres, near St. Remy). The food was sublime and the ambience very warm and inviting<<

>>In Aix, Clops de Violette but tres cher as is the Oustau de Baumaniere<<

All three of these places are supposedly excellent, but they do not fit your requirement of "not to expensive". Dinner for two will likely be in the $250 to $350 range.

Also, Mas de Cure Bourse is very nice, but I have difficulty getting home afterwards at night. There are excellent road signs to get you to the Mas, but no signs from the Mas back to your hotel. It's in a forest, & all intersections looked the same to me. I have got lost twice - in the daylight once (we have spent 4 weeks vacationing close to there & I have very detailed maps). Go there for lunch or do a "dry run" if you plan to dine at night.

Stu Dudley

Thanks to all for your assistance.
Stu, thanks, I did receive your documents on Provence and we intend to follow your "lavender route". Even though the lavender is unlikely to be blooming, the drive looks very appealing to us. Based on suggestions from all of you, we have added Le Fournil in Bonnieux and L'Affenage in Arles to our dining plans. We will also try the Mas de Cure Bourse for lunch (that is,if we can find it!). In Aix, we plan to wander aimlessly, trust serendipity, and let our instincts and our noses guide us. Any suggestions for lunch in Cassis? We have seen recommendations for Chez Nino and Le Jardin d'Emile. Do you prefer one, or are there others?

We're 5 weeks away from France and counting down by the day (one week in Paris, 10 days in Provence).
Thanks again!

Kevin

>>Mas de Cure Bourse for lunch (that is,if we can find it!)<<

It is very easy to find it - lots of signs everywhere. It's getting back that's difficult.

Stu Dudley

Right in your backyard in St. Martin de Castillon (right on the N100), there is the Hotel-Restaurant Lou Caleu. We liked it so well that we ate there twice in one week in 2003. Nice atmosphere, good, reasonably priced food(menus 17 - 32 euros), beautifully presented and nice people. You can have a look at http://www.provenceweb.fr/84/hotels/...restaurant.htm Enjoy Provence!

Several places we enjoyed recently near St Remy are:
La Source in St Remy
L’Oustalet Maianen in Maillane
Alain Assaud Le Marceau in St Remy
Grain de Sel in St Remy.
If you want more detail check my trip report for March 2005.

Betty-thanks for the lead on Lou Caleu. It looks enticing, it's very close to our place, and if you yourself ate there twice, it must be good! I also read a recommendation by Peter Mayle for the Bistrot de France in Apt, which we will check out and hope that it hasn't fallen victim to the dreaded "celebrity endorsement." I've just read several glowing recommendations for Auberge de la Loube in Buoux---great setting, wonderful service, fantastic starters, and inventive provencal cuisine. Now, how can you fault that? And besides, it's quite near our place.
AGM-Cape Cod- Your trip report is compelling. You have a real eye for the details, and thanks for the resto tips. Le Grain de Sel looks tempting and we have added it to our list.

AGM knows her food! La Loube is very good.
We stayed several days at the Mas Cure Bourse several years ago and happy the figs were ripe that I plucked from the trees on the terrace.
I like Chez Gilbert that faces the port in Cassis.

Elle, thanks for the tips on restaurants in the Vaucluse and in Uzes. I've added them to my trip planning document. La fete en Provence seems to be a hotel, with a restaurant. Is that the way you remember it? We will likely go to the
Tuesday market in Vaison-la-Romaine, unless we leave early and head down to Seguret or Gigondas.
Myou restaurant appears to be right in the town of Uzes. Is that right?

La Table du Comtat in Seguret serves good food and has spectacular views of the Montmirail chain.

Sorry for my typos, it shoukd read Clos and Riboto, My arthritis is very bad this week.

Hikerboy- Just remember that Le Grain de Sel didn't take credit cards and plan accordingly. Enjoy and let us know where you go.

Thanks everyone for your help. Here is my "short" list (which comprises too many restaurants to try in the time available!)

While we are in St Martin de Castillon:
**Lou Caleu (provencal for “The Oil Lamp”) just east of Apt near St. Martin de Castillon
Apt: Bistrot de France
La Manade
Relais de Roquefure ( The food is some of the best in the area, emphasizing regional produce. Repas du soir 20€ par personne).
St. Saturnin les Apt: Les Voyageurs
Roussillon: La Val des Fees
N100 near Goult: L'Auberge du Fiacre
Mas de Tourteron-Les Imbert (s. of Gordes)
**Auberge de la Loube, Buoux Small, personalized, and charming, this century-old domaine of Provençal chef and entrepreneur Maurice de la Loube offers delicious cuisine.
**Le Fournil, Bonnieux in an old bakery-John Malkovich’s favourite-is the very definition of low-key Provencal style, with great service and local produce.
Mas de Cure Bourse, Carrefour de Velorgues - 84800 - L'Isle sur la Sorgue - Tél. 04.90.38.16.58 €16 lunch, wed-fri
Near Sivergues,the restaurant/goat farm called Castellas

Moving on to Aix, here are the ones we like:
*Le Bistrot Latin (Aix) tel. 04-42-38-22-88): The staff is young and enthusiastic, and Provençal music plays in the background. Try the scampi risotto.
Le Petit Verdot, at 7 rue d'Entrecasteaux (near hotel)
Le Dernier Bistrot - 15-19, Rue Constantin +(33) 4 42 21 13 02
Chez Charlotte - 32, Rue des Bernardines +(33) 4 42 26 77 56
Le Basilic Gourmand - 6, Rue du Griffon (lunch)
Brasserie Léopold - 2, Avenue Victor Hugo C'est un excellent restaurant. La carte y est variée et les plats copieux. La tarte tatin avec son fromage blanc est magique.
Le Ramus, 5 Place Ramus tel. 04 42 93 00 97 Typical Provencal restaurant, the bouillabaisse is especially good.

In Cassis- Chez Gilbert, on the harbor. (Thanks, cricket!)

Arles:
La Gueule du Loup 39 rue des Arènes a delightful small restaurant. The very tasty 25 euro menu was a steal.
**L'Affenage. A roaring fireplace grill and a parade of crockery bowls full of Provençal hors d'oeuvres (eggplant, tapenade, and chickpeas with cumin) make this a popular lunch spot. Closed Sun., Mon. night
*La Paillotte - 28, Rue du Docteur Fanton - Best restaurant in our 4 weeks in Provence.
*Le Jardin de Manon 14, av Alyscamps. A simple, reasonably priced, hospitable Provençal restaurant serving elaborate regional dishes and delicious desserts.,
**La Chassagnette Route du Sambuc (13 km south of Arles on the D36) The meal starts with tapas-style dishes. Some are based on vegetables; you might be served grilled sardines as well. Meals are interesting and innovative, inspired solely by the restaurant's superb organic garden and the local Provençal markets. Lunch €22. Stupendous! (we've already booked here for lunch)
*Grain de Sel in St Remy

When we return in late June, I'll file a trip report. Thanks again for all your help. I really appreciate it!

Kevin

Dear Kevin, Great list! Even if you only get to a few you will love it.
If you like Jazz, on Thursday night at the Le Gousse D'Ail in St Remy. and Kevin, a cigale is not a cricket but a cicada. "Et La Cigale Chanta tout L'Eté."

My favorite place missed your list (although you may have dropped it because it exceeds your price limit). It is close to where you are staying - just stop by one time & check out the menu and the ambience at Bernard Mathys. We've vacationed many times in Provence, for a total of 13+ weeks. We've dined at 6 of the places on your list, and I certainly prefer Bernard Mathys over the others. My second favorite close to Apt, is Bartavelle in Goult - it's more in the price range of the others on your list.

I was disappointed with my meal at Fournil, and Jardin de Manon is perhaps last on the list of the 20 or so places we've visited. We've dined at Aub de la Loube twice, and when the Peter Mayle "mystique" wore off for us on our second visit (a few years later), it did not seem as good.

My favorites on your list are Cure Bourse (tried to dine there a second time - after a dry run driving there in the daytiime, we concluded that we would get lost going "home" after dinner like we did the first time we dined there), and Mas de Tourteron (dined there twice - lovely setting). We chose not to dine a second time Auberge de Fiacre.

Stu Dudley

Grandmere!! I noticed in my cookbook of Elizebeth Bourgeious (sp?) of the Mas de Tourteron, that she also owns the "La Carre D'Herbes" in Isle sur Sorgue. We did lunch there one day several years ago but didn't realizze it was their operation or if it still is. Do you know?

Auberge de la Loube was probably our most memorable meal in the Luberon. A couple of things -- be prepared for a somewhat hair-rising drive up to Buoux. We drove from Bonnieux (where we were staying) in the afternoon to make sure we could find our way that night for dinner. Two of our party were so alarmed by the twisty mountainous road that they didn't want to go back at night. We finally convinced them, and it was fine, but I wouldn't want to attempt it if the driver had overindulged on wine! I did see a road going out of Buoux the other way, so maybe there is an easier approach than the one we took.

Also, if you go (and I definitely recommend it) be sure to have the antipasto; it's amazing, seemed to go on forever. You can see a picture of it on our web site at: http://www.aultdesign.com/FrancePGA/.../source/17.htm
Also, they have a wonderful dessert platter. The night we were there the main dinner choices were pork and lamb, and the lamb people were happier with their meal.

If you're there in warm weather, they had a really nice looking patio dining area. We were there in October, so it wasn't open.

nonafelice, are they no longer open for lunch?

Helas, Cigalechanta, I haven't been in Provence in several years and don't know about Eliz. Bourgeois' other place. Have you tried to google it?

This thread reminds me that I wish I were going to Provence next week.

Don't need to I have been there but wondering if you had since you are a fan but I don't remember what we at it wAS LONG AGO. i STILL HAVE THE CARD THEY GAVE WITH l'ADDITION. (SORRY KEYSstick)

La Fete en Provence is more of a restaurant with a few rooms above it than the reverse, I think.

Myou is indeed in the Center of Uzes, although not right near the Place des Herbes, which I think of as the social center of the town. It's near the church known as St. Theodorit. Food is supposed to be Provencal, but I had a delicious chicken dish--sesame crusted--that tasted quite Asian to me. When I mentioned this to our host, who had recommended the restaurant, he was scandalized.

Hi Hikerboy
Just a comment about the goat farm in Sivergues. Because of Cigalechanta's recommendation, we went there. If you think the drive to Buoux is hair-raising, don't go to the goat farm. We went for lunch and when you get there it is beautiful. Looks like it is straight out of Heidi with a view that won't quit. But can't imagine having dinner there. It would be impossible to drive down the mountain after dark. (As I recall, Cigale was staying there.) Anyway, we didn't get to eat because there was a film crew from Paris encamped. But we looked around. Have a great trip. It is a wonderful area. CJ

Jumpin' Jimimy, Cigalechanta, I just gave myself a quick education on the differences between crickets and cicadas (katydids also). I also learned that the 13 year and 17 year "locusts" are cicadas too! Sorry about that.

And Aunt Felicity, thanks for the link to your photo album. The starter antipasto looks impressive, and the "Chien Loube" is pretty cute too! Your album shows a great slice of life in Provence and Paris. It looks as if all of you travelling in "big blue" got along well too.
Stu, we may have a peek at Bernard Mathys and if we happen to be feeling flush or impulsive, we just might try it. I certainly value your evaluations and love reading your reports, but I am trying to economize so Peggy can spend more (time & money) in the shops and the markets! Besides, I'm just a country boy from New Brunswick, Canada with pretty simple tastes. That's why dining at the goat farm in Sivergues appeals to me (I think we'll take Carol Jean's advice and go up there for a hike and lunch, rather than scare the dickens out of my wife driving fast on those windy country roads at night.
On May 30, we leave here for a week in Paris and 10 days in Provence. We wish we could do as Stu and his wife do and stay for 4 weeks. Maybe next time. Regardless, we can hardly wait!

Thanks,

Kevin

Question - What is the difference between Locusts and Cicadas?
-----------------
Common name confusion once again illustrating the usefulness of scientific nomenclature!
Cicadas are in the order Homoptera, most closely related to plant lice and leafhoppers.
Cicadas lay eggs in slits in twigs; annual species hatch and mature on their host trees
and sing loudly during hot summer days. Periodical cicadas drop to the ground after
hatching and spend anywhere from a few to 17 years as nymphs feeding on tree roots
underground before maturing to adults. "Locust" is a general, colloquial term that
usually refers to migratory grasshoppers of the order Orthoptera, but is sometimes applied
to other insects of the order, including crickets and katydids.

J. Elliott

Hikerboy,

Cigalechanta and AGM among others gave you golden advice.

IMO, re St. Remy, for La Source only dine outside. La Grain de Sel is excellent. For a nice lunch try Gousse d'Ail in St. Remy.

A few kms outside of St. Remy is an auberge called Mas de Bournissac (near Paludes de Noves(sp?)). Its restaurant, La Maison, provided the best meal we ever had in Provence, maybe in France. Save it for a special occasion, or, if your budgt permits, do not miss it.

I also like the Mas de Toureton near Gordes--again outside is best. In Saignon, near Apt, is Le Presbytere, great for lunch. May still be owned by Virginian--who is most hospitable.

We visit St. Remy for the 13th straight year in June. Love the place.

Anthony

Anthony,thanks for the advice. When a guy with 13 years of experience speaks, I listen. You know you've found something worthwhile if you return every year! This will be our first visit to Provence but I doubt that it will be our last!

Kevin

Cigale, you asked whether La Loube was no longer open for lunch. They probably are during high season, but we were there in October, and as I recall they were only open for dinner, at least during the week. Maybe they were open for lunch on weekends.

Hikerboy, glad you enjoyed the photo album. You mentioned that you wanted to economize, and La Loube was quite reasonably priced, I think.

sivergues goat farm sounds terrific, although i'd sure appreciate how to get there from lacoste, where we'll be staying. we really enjoy restaurant loufoc (!!!) in our very own lacoste. delicious food, uner $100 eiros for 2 with wine, and the view across the valley to bonnieux in prieless !!!

hikerboy, did you write a trip report? Or want to tell us which restaurants you went to, and which you liked?

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