tuscanlifeedit

Our trip is for 13 nights in late September, early October. We can't change any dates. Some of it is working out, and some of it is driving me mad. Not that it's anything important, but please indulge me in my fussy travel ways.

Frustrations:
#1: I've posted about this three times, twice here and once on TA. Many helpful suggestions but also many snarky comments, some akin to "you are an imbecile." I am indeed often less than a genius, but please, I know where I want to go and what I want to do. I just need some help and feedback. I'm almost done ranting.

I've been told to "get a guidebook" and "look at a map" when I've obviously listed an itinerary that only a guidebook junkie could come up with. I've been told that I don't want to visit museums and galleries in the south of France and that there's something wrong with me if I think I've "exhausted" all that the museums in Paris have to offer. I don't. For jeeper's sake, I just like museums and art galleries.

I've also been told that I know nothing about Provence (duh; that's why the books and questions), and I'm an American (gosh, no! exposed at last) and that I'm taking a Disneyesque (or some such made up word) approach to the Cote d'Azur.

Ok, I'm done ranting. If you've made it this far, please help me plan my trip.

#2
We arrive in St Remy de Provence on a Wednesday afternoon or early evening, thus missing the much praised Wednesday market. We will stay in the area, with a car the entire time, in a good position for day tripping.

Are there other worthwhile markets I can make it to? Or am I shooting myself in the foot by staying in St Remy and missing this market? We chose St Remy for it's ease in approaching many of the places we would like to get a look at, and it sounds like a nice town.

#3
From St Remy, on a Monday morning, we will head to the Cote d'Azur. I have a very art-centric itinerary, suggested by Underhill years ago when I first planned to take this trip. I also want to see more villages and maybe some natural beauty. We have six nights for this leg of the trip.

I'm thinking of spending 4 of those nights inland, maybe Vence, then 2 nights in Nice, ditching the car on the way in to Nice

Sub-frustrations
a) is this a good plan or should we
b) get an apartment in a smaller coastal town with train and parking, day trip into Nice, and stay in apartment in smaller coastal town all six nights?

OK, i will stop now. If you've read this far, I owe you gratitude and welcome all constructive criticism. Please be aware that my stack of guidebooks is toppling over.

Judy

Somehow I've missed your other two posts....perhaps life intervened.
We've stayed in St Remy and not experienced their market. We survived, though maybe don't know how much richer our life could have been had we gone. Simply google markets in Provence and I'm certain you'll find one you can go to from St Remy. We did find St Remy quite easy to get in and out of though we stayed on the outskirts.

We've stayed inland in Core d'Azur, in St Paul de Vence and Tourette sur Loup.....and we love art. We've seen the Matisse Chapel in Vence, Maeght Foundation, Chagall and Matisse Museums in Nice.

I would split the stay 3 days inland and 3 in Nice.

Michael

<i>I'm thinking of spending 4 of those nights inland, maybe Vence, then 2 nights in Nice, ditching the car on the way in to Nice </i>

Vence is so close to Nice that I do not see a reason to overnight in both places. Either one can easily be reached from the other.

<i>get an apartment in a smaller coastal town with train and parking, day trip into Nice, and stay in apartment in smaller coastal town all six nights?
</i>

That might be the best plan, but not necessarily on the coast. Anywhere between Nice and Grasse would do.

tuscanlifeedit

Judy, that all sounds just right.

Did you like Nice very much? I was there many years ago and didn't love it, but I'm open.

Michael, I was thinking "coastal" because of the train service. In fact, taking the train would be the main reason I would want to park in one town (for the access to Nice, Antibe, Villefranche).

Michael

We drove to Antibes, staying at a B&B east of Grasse and had no problems. Nice is more complex. On the other hand, if staying west of Nice, dropping the car off at the airport on the last day might be a nice convenience.

macanimals

Saturday market in Arles, Sunday market( big ) in I'le sur la Sorgue and there are many more depending on where you would like to visit i.e. Lourmarin or Eygalieres (v. small) on Friday. Lots of choices for a full morning.

Underhill

Arles has a huge market on Saturdays. The day we were there we saw two "guardiens" from the Camargue, shopping with their horses and in full regalia.

Getting rid of a car before Nice is a very wise idea, as it's murder to drive in and around that beautiful city--which we absolutely love. For anyone interested in art, there is much to see--especially the Chagall Museum. Nearby are, of course, the Picasso Museum (in Antibes); the many galleries of St-Paul-de-Vence and Mougins; the Matisse Chapel in Vence; and the Fondation Maeght near St-Paul. You will be spoiled for choice.

One of our favorite museums is the Corning International Art Glass Museum in Biot, just across from the glass-blowing atelier (where you can watch the artisans at work).

Underhill

I left off the national ceramics museum in Vallauris, which has a number of Picassos; it's next to the museum housing Picasso's huge War and Peace painting.

Sassafrass

You are not shooting yourself in the foot at all. Of the many markets we have been to, the Sat mkt. in Arles is my favorite. It is huge with fantastic foods of all kinds, beautiful flowers, spices, etc. We bought the most wonderful cheeses, breads, fruits, roast chicken, vegetables, etc.

immimi

If you haven't already, check out the website Beyond the
French Riviera - www.beyond/fr - for info on every single
village in the region.

You do not want or need a car in Nice but Arles - yes, a
car is invaluable imho.

joannyc

Bookmarking

tuscanlifeedit

Underhill, you posted on a thread of mine where I asked about art sites in this area, about 6 or so years ago. We never got to take that trip. Do you think we can see a good deal of what you mention in 6 days/nights?

immimi, I will continue to study the beyond.fr website.

So
1) do we think 3 and 3 for Nice and inland, or, my original preference, 4 inland and 2 Nice? Everyone, of course, has a different opinion.

and
2) Can we reasonably drive into Arles on Saturday for the market?

Thanks so much.

rosemaryoz

The drive from St Remy to Arles is easy - literally about half an hour (but allow a bit of time time find parking on market day), and well worth it, as there is so much more than the market to explore in Arles. I think St Remy has lots to offer beyond the market too: St Paul Asylum where Van Gogh stayed, the Glanum ruins, and 15 minutes drive to Carrieres de Lumieres and Les Baux. Also drive half an hour north to Avignon. It is a really interesting area, with plenty to do within an hour's drive in any direction.

grandmere

Uzes is only about an hour away from St. Remy and has a wonderful Sat. market as well as being a lovely town in itself.

cathies

If you do go to a market. Look out for beautiful soaps. I brought half a dozen home and was very sad when I'd used them all.

Sher

One year I stayed in Beaulieu sur Mer. One of the things I enjoyed visiting is the Villa Kerylos. It is not a museum but a lovely house in a great setting.
It may not be your thing or you just might run out of time but you might put it on your list. Besides the drive from Nice to Beaulieu on the lower corniche road is really beautiful.
Enjoy

tuscanlifeedit

Sue, Uzes was one of the reasons I chose St Remy: so we would be in driving distance to Pont du Gard and Uzes. I know you love this area so if you have any other recommendations nearby, I would love them.

cathies: I am all about soap. Love soap. Will buy soap. I would also like to buy a piece of Provencal table linen. Nothing fancy or fine, but colorful and typical would be great.

dugi_otok

+1 on Uzes and it's Saturday market.Stayed there last year. Just the right size.Easy in easy out.Last year I bought a zillion bars of soap for my daughter-in-law. Also table linens and dinner ware. I have also been to Arles market.Interesting. OD on fish,flowers, and produce. Very blue collar. The Sunday market in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is to markets as the Rose Parade is to all other parades and is on everybody's bucket list especially if you like antiques.Should have bought that antique coffee grinder. Settled for a ceramic cicada which still decorates my kitchen wall.

Sassafrass

Dugi_otok said, "OD on fish, flowers and produce. Very blue collar"

Dugi is absolutely right.

Arles does not look like an upscale city and the market, though big, was not at all designed for tourist trade. The market goers seemed to be an eclectic group, some buying fancy cheeses, and others buying chickens and rabbits for butchering. But, the flowers were lovely and the produce, etc. fresh. We had rented a tiny, two story house in Arles and I felt like a local buying food to take back to prepare in my own little home. If you are looking for local color, it is great; for antiques or upmarket gifts, no.

Judy

While you are staying inland, have lunch or dinner at Colombe d'Or in St Paul de Vence to see the art there. It would be perfect for the day you see Foundation Maeght.

I like Nice but have never stayed in Nice. We've stayed in Antibes and St Jean Cap Ferrat. Oh and don't forget to put Villa Ephrussi on your list!