BaltoTraveler

For years we've entertained thoughts of driving through Provence during lavender season (late June through July, as I understand). I know it will be hot; that's a given. But will the roads be packed with tourists? Will we find accommodations fully-booked already? I have this image of roads being backed up with thousands of people having the exact same travel idea at the same time.

Any thoughts?

And while we're at it, could you suggest a not-too-ambitious 1-week itinerary? We'd either fly into Marseilles or take the high-speed train into Avignon, and rent a car on arrival. I'm thinking of using two small hotels (or at most three) as bases for exploration, rather than switching every night.

Our priorities for such a trip would be: seeing beautiful countryside; eating good (but not outrageously expensive) food; walking around "quaint" villages; doing some low-intensity hikes; and maybe renting bikes for a day.

ckenb

If you go expecting a low-key vacation and are willing to work with the realities of travel, you will have a great time. Your plan sounds good to me. I don't think you'll find yourself in bumper-to-bumper traffic, even in July. Make your reservations early and have a good time.

stewart2005

Went in July and no problem. Marseille more crowded but thats part of the experience! We stayed 1hr south of Avignon and very central for a day trip back to Avignon, Aix en P., and surroudnign area. please email b/c memory terrible and have lots of restaurants and hotel to recommend: [email protected]

Powell

My wife and I (in our 60's) have been taking that kind of vacation for the last 14 years, biking excluded.

The image you probably have seen of the roads in France is more the French going on vacation in August than foreign tourists coming in in July, though crowds have grown in recent years in the summer.

We normally train from Gare de Lyon on the TGV to Avignon (less than 3 hour ride) then rent a car. It just so happens that this year we will fly into Marseilles and rent a car there.)

We stay at a lovely two star hotel, with pool, without a/c in St. Remy de Provence and have for 14 years. I would book somewhere in advance because this is high season. If you provide your budget situation I could be more precise.

You will need a car to really see Provence. Over a week you could visit:

-Abbey Senanque near Gordes with its wonderful fields of lavender.
-Sault near Mont Ventoux with its physical beauty.
-Villages like Lourmarin, Roussilon, and more
-Aix en Provence, lovely "Paris of the South"

All of these sites are within an hour or so from St. Remy which I would make as my one base. St. Remy itself has much to offer in shops, restaurants, a wonderful weekly market on Wednesday, etc.

You can find great local resturants in each village at reasonable prices.

If you wish more info please e-mail me at [email protected]

Anthony

StuDudley

The huge crowds that you hear about don't start until about the 3rd week in July. in '99 we were in St Remy the first two weeks of July & had no problems making reservations for dinner 1 day in advance at Michelin 1 star restaurants & other Michelin listed ones - on two occasions there were 6 of us. Les Baux gets pretty crowded, but go there first thing in the AM or last thing in the evening to avoid the masses. We were in Gordes the last two weeks of June in '99 & 03 and had no problems with crowds. The temps were not bad either. '03 was the big heat wave in June & Aug also. '02 was pretty hot too. Last year, not so bad - we were there the 3rd week in June.

If you have my 20+ page intinerary on Provence, it has a "Lavender Route" section, and also describes other places to see lavender - the Valensole plane. It also has a "provence fabric" section. e-mail me at [email protected] if you don't have a copy. I'll attach one to the returned e-mail. My itinerary also has seggested areas to stay in. If you are there for 10 days or longer, I would split the time between the Luberon (my favorite area), St Remy, and Vaison. For less than 10 days, drop Vaison.

Stu Dudley

jengoestofrance

Balto Traveler,

We were there last July - last two weeks of July. we were based in the Luberon, the most touristy next to the Cote from what I gather. We rode our bikes almost every day and drove all around the country side. The drivers were very generous with the road and willing to drive around cyclists (unlike in north america) and we never found it too crowded (ocassionally a restaurant wouldn't have a table, but then we'd just walk to the next).

I'd book your accomodations now if you haven't already...it's getting late if you want your first choice.

Based on your preferences I would suggest the Luberon as a base. There is plenty there to keep you busy for a week.

Jen

kdcwood

We have been in the Luberon now every month of the year, last year being the first time we've experience the peak summer months. Based on what I had heard, I expected horrible crowds in the summer. We were pleasantly surprised-- with a few exceptions-- to find the Luberon overall very pleasant at that time of year.

My thoughts:

- It can get very hot, though not humid like we experience in the southeastern USA. Plan your strenuous activities for the earlier morning and later afternoon. Drink lots of water. Stay at a place with a pool and use it. We are hikers and found hiking much more challenging at this time of year. In July and August there are even restrictions in the Luberon. Get up early to hike!

- Make your accommodation rservations (B&B, hotel or rental) ASAP... just to be sure you get what you want.

- Get to markets early to beat the crowds. I love the outdoor markets of Provence, but we found the markets much more crowded in the peak season... some almost horribly so in the late morning. Get there early and do your wandering and shopping. Then stake out a place at a cafe and wash others push and shove.

- Make reservations for special meals. I'd suggest a lunch reservation if you want to stay in a market town or village for lunch (just stop in when you get there that morning). And I'd definitely suggest a dinner reservation, even if you just call that morning. This just helps avoid disappointment.

- Seek out some of the quieter, lesser-known places. "Popular" villages like Roussillon and Gordes are very busy. But we found other villages (those not in the tourist guides) very accessible.

You might enjoy my blog of our month in the Luberon this summer-- some gorgeous lavender photos too. This includes our explorations of the lesser-known Provence as well as some of our hikes. http://www.slowtrav.com/blog/wood/ar..._provence.html

Kathy