Provence after Christmas
 

Dear all,

We are a party of two couples, who have long been enthralled by Provence - its farmers' markets, olive farms etc - having been weaned on a diet of MFK Fisher, Ruth Reichl, Peter Mayle and the like.

We are thinking of visiting in end December for two or three days - after Christmas in Paris and before New Year's in Barcelona. I know that this is the off-season but I'm hoping that it is still do-able.

Would be grateful for advice on this.

1) Is it a good idea to travel at that time? Would restaurants, markets and shops etc be closed?
2) If so, where would be a good place to go? Aix? Avignon?
3) Would also be grateful for recommendations for B&B/hotels.

Many thanks for your help!

People live there so markets, restaurants, shops are open. Several years ago I spent the time between Christmas-New Year's in Avignon and Arles, and it was a nice time to be there. Chilly, but sunny.

Stayed across the river from Avignon in Villeneuve-les-Avignon at the Hotel de l'Atelier, and in Arles at the Hotel d'Arlatan, which is a centrally located 3* hotel that has prettily decorated rooms.

Thanks Grandmere.

Given that we would be spending at most three nights there, do you recommend Avignon or Arles? What about Aix-de-Provence?

We like food, trying out the local bistros, perhaps visiting some wineries.

Have been cool but not cold nice maybe frontal rain a bit

www.lecalendal.com Arles best vibe price for me

easy to get around on foot... Easy Train from paris barcelona

If you're going to "stay put" in whichever city you go, I'd choose Aix; if you plan to do day trips with a rental car, I'd go for the smaller town of either Arles or Avignon. Arles would be my choice of those two.

Happy planning!

I love this time of year in Provence. And, yes, things should be open. The provencal Christmas season (la Calendale) is very long -- it runs from 4 Dec to Candlemas (2 Feb) and embraces a wealth of lovely local traditions.

You should find santons markets (for Christmas crib figures) - I know the Marseille one runs till the end of December at least - and the Christmas market in Aix should still be running. Try to see one of the provencal cribs in situ -- most churches and homes have them.

You may be able to see the pastrage (shepherds' procession) at either Allauch or Saint Remy. More about Christmas traditions in Provence. http://bit.ly/8X3meq

Thanks everyone for your comments, we're excited about seeing Provence in winter. We have also heard from a veteran of Provence traipses, that Gordes is the one place we should go. Has anyone been there in late December? Does it get very rainy?

We lived in Provence in 2004-2005 (in Bonnieux in the Luberon) and were there for Christmas. We were back this past Christmas for the last two weeks of December, also staying in Bonnieux.

We had a wonderful time this past Christmas. One of the reasons we love it so much is that Bonnieux is like home to us and we have local friends and social activities. But I think if someone has realistic expectations, you could have a really nice time in this area. The Christmas traditions in Provence are very special.

Weather-wise, it's likely going to be cold. There could be rain but it could also be very sunny. On a sunny day, even when it's cold, you'll see people eating outside. Bring a winter coat, hat, scarf, gloves etc. In 2004 Christmas Day was rainy and there was some snow during the following week.

This year we did day trips to Aix-en-Provence and Avignon, larger cities that are busy and interesting. They both have Christmas markets, though I don't know if they run after Christmas. Avignon also had some interesting displays of Christmas traditions (a creche and the holiday table). We really like the Luberon town of Apt, and it is incredibly decorated with lights-- the lights were still up the week after Christmas. (A famous lighting company is based in Apt.) Many of the village churches have beautiful creches; we were really impressed with the creche at the old church in Bonnieux this year. The churches may be open only certain times though.

You can visit the weekly outdoor markets, though in small villages they may be very small or non-existant. We went to the Apt market on Christmas eve and it was very small, partly due to bad weather. I think the markets will run every day but Christmas day.

One of the best things about Gordes is the viewpoint as you approach the village and its equally dramatic in winter. There was a small Christmas market (indoor) in the old chateau in Gordes when we were there this year.

Be aware that in smaller villages, some of the restaurants and shops will be closed in the off-season.

Kathy