Iregeo

Good morning Fodorites! We are just back from 2 glorious weeks in Rome, the Tuscan countryside, Florence and Venice. Our travel experience was completely safe and completely wonderful -like a dream! I hope to be able to post a brief trip report soon, and am happy to answer any questions. But first I must thank you all, especially Bob the Navigator, Elaine, Grinisa and Bookchick (who, for some reason, I found myself looking for around every corner!)for your suggestions and advice which made this trip the trip of a lifetime. Grazie mille! Ciao.

HartmannA

I am interested in doing the same trip in the fall, please advise as to where you flew in and out from and how many days you spent in each area. Thank you!

Judy

Iregeo, I'm leaving Wednesday...somewhat similar itinerary....Rome, Southern Tuscany, Sestri Levante and Venice...getting very excited about going and looking forward to your report! Did you rent a car when leaving Rome? Where did you pick it up? Anything wonderful you'd like to share quickly before I go? Thanks.

Iregeo

Hi HartmannA. To answer your question, we flew into Rome and out of Venice. We arrived in Rome at 6pm, spending 5 nights/4 days in Rome, 3 nights in the Tuscan countryside (stayed in Montefollonico and visited Orvieto, Cortona and San Gimignano), 3 nights in Florence and 3 nights in Venice. Of course, Rome has so much to offer you could stay for months, but we felt that we made a good dent in our 4 short days. On the other hand, we were scheduled to stay in the countryside 4 days, but chose to move on after 3, and spent the extra day in Florence. Wow, what a city! Again, could have spent more time in each Florence and Venice, but must return to work to make money for the next vacation! Enjoy yours.

Iregeo

Hi Judy. I'm excited for you! Although I've been elsewhere in Europe, I've never been to Italy before this trip and I enjoyed it tremendously. I'll try to answer your specific questions and give you our &quot;best of&quot; list in each city. <BR><BR>We had prearranged and prepaid for a manual transmission, compact car with Europecar to drive the remainder of our itinerary. When we went to retieve our car at the Via Lombardia office in Rome, they provided us with a brand new, big, beautiful AUTOMATIC Mercedes Benz! That was comfortable treat.<BR><BR>If you need transportation from the airport in Rome, don't hesitate to contact Andrea (by email before you leave)at [email protected]. I learned about it here. They have a driver meet you at the airport, with a placard with your name. It is easy, reasonably priced and quite welcoming after a long flight.<BR><BR>If you haven't already and still can, book as many tours as interest you with Scala Reale (www.Scalareale.com?) Again, I learned of them here. We did Roma Antica and Arte Vaticana, with a child, and they were wonderful. We also thoroughly enjoyed our orientation tour as well. They truly are a wealth of knowledge and, imho, well worth the extra dollars.<BR><BR>Whether you are an art lover or not, DON'T MISS THE GALLERIA BORGHESE, and prebook a reservation through your hotel.<BR><BR>Our 2 best meals in Rome were had at Spirito di Vino, Via dei Genovesi 31a/b (Trastevere)reservations recommended, and Ditirambo, Piazza della Cancelleria 74-75 (Campo di Fiori) reservations necessary. We ate at Orso 80, Via dell Orso 33, our first night and had great dishes of antipasta. Also, a nice, popular, crowded enotecha in the Navona area in called Cul de Sac. We did also eat at Nino, but I can't recommend it.<BR><BR>I listed above where we went in the countryside. I loved Orvieto, Cortona and Montefollonico, but unfortunately thought San G. was too touristy. I wasn't expecting that because everyone says you must go. Anyway, our room at the hotel, La Costa, had the most magnificent view, but next time I'd try La Chuisa up the street. The proprietors were much friendlier.<BR><BR>Don't know if you plan to visit Florence, but all I can say is GO! It is a charming, open air museum/city where you walk everywhere. The basilica, the view from the duomo, the shopping... we loved it. We also had 3 good meals there and if you're going, do a search under my name and you'll find the names and addresses of the restaurants I liked.<BR><BR>Finally, what can you say of Venice? Moonlit gondola rides, the Grand Canal, Piazza San Marco. Some may say it's cheesy, but I think its romantic and beautiful. <BR><BR>I hope you have a wonderful time and if you have any specific questions, let me know and I'll try my best. Ciao! <BR><BR> <BR><BR>

capo

Glad to hear you liked Cortona as we did too, spending an entire afternoon there (when we'd only planned to spend an hour or two.) <BR><BR>Although Cortona certainly had tourists, we felt, as you did, that San G. beat it hands down in the &quot;too touristy&quot; sweepstakes. We were able to actually park right outside Cortona's walls whereas, in our attempt to visit San G. we ran into some of the worst traffic congestion of our trip outside the town. (San G. may, of course, be more spectacular than Cortona, which may account for the greater number of tourists.)

Judy

Thanks, Iregeo, I'm taking your restaurant recommendations with us! I only have two days in Rome with a couple of friends before we meet our husbands and three other couples in LaFoce (southern Tuscany)where we have a villa for a week. We do have reservations for the Borghese on our second day but have decided against any other culture in Rome, just getting over jet lag and maybe some shopping/eating/drinking! Happy to hear about your car. We have a Europcar reservation as well and recently moved our pick up location from the airport to the Via Cipro (Vatican) location due to airlines changing schedules and husband #1 arriving at 8 am and husbands #2 &amp; 3 arriving at 1 pm...they'll get the airport car and hopefully will find Tuscany. My concern was driving out of Rome. I've only been there once before but driving looked scary!! <BR>We plan on several day trips from LaFoce, probably going in several different directions on any given day...we have 4 cars and some of us have been to Italy before. We, too, loved Cortona so will suggest that those who haven't been spend part of a day there. <BR>Venice is what we are really looking forward to as we've never been and at that point in our trip it will be just me and my husband. Who knows if our 10 friends will even be speaking to us by then! We're looking forward to it and appreciate your suggestions and comments greatly.<BR>

Iregeo

Judy, where are you staying in Rome? There may be a closer place to pick up your car than the Vatican area. In any case, it was a bit hairy finding our way to the autostrade out of Rome, but get some good directions for the navigator to read to the driver.

Judy

We're staying at Albergo del Senato but are meeting another couple who had arranged the pick up site. Looking at the map, the site northwest of the Vatican does have no driving in the central city and seems to be a fairly straight shot to the Autostrade....at least one would think that 6 reasonable experienced adult drivers could get two vehicles out of Rome!! It'll be an adventure.

SeaUrchin

Judy, it is not that hard to drive from where you are staying to the autostrada. I stayed at the Atlante Star near the vatican and navigated the way out of town easily. Get a little map from the rental company and have them draw a colored line to lead you.

Judy

Thanks, Sea Urchin &amp; Iregeo. I'll stop worrying about getting out of Rome and concern myself with enjoying our time there!

Iregeo

Judy, you're lucky to be staying at the del Senato. We stayed at the Due Torri, which was very nice, but I walked by and loved the Del Senato. Next time, we'll stay there for sure. Have a safe and wonderful trip!

rootcher

Iregeo, we are going in June with my three kids and going to Venice and Florence (along with Cinque Terre and Lake Como). Did you say you went with a child? How old if so and how did he/she do. Any good hotel recommendations in Florence. We are renting an apartment in Venice and may stay in a B&amp;B in Florence. Still working on that. any help would be appreciated. Sandy

KathrynT

I am relieved to hear that it is possible to drive out of Rome from the Vatican area without going too insane as that is our plan, as well, and I have been rather worried about it. This board is so helpful!!!

Iregeo

Rootcher, yes, my husband and I travelled with my 11 1/2 year old son, who loved every moment of the trip! Never once complained about walking everwhere, which is usually his m.o. Anyway, in Florence, we stayed at a small 2 star hotel called the Alessandra. It was very well located in the center of the city, walking distance to everything. It was a large, clean room and the service is warm and friendly (and kid friendly). It is, however, just 2 stars, and therefore has few amenities, if that makes a difference to you. Please let me know if you have any other specific questions. Ciao.

Amanda

Hi Iregeo, can you recommend any cafes or restaurants in Venice? We'll be there for 4 nights in May and staying at the hotel Do Pozzi a few minutes away from San Marco apparently. Also any must-sees?

Iregeo

Hi Amanda. In Venice, we ate at Da Rafaele, which is right behind the Do Pozzi. Although the food was not outstanding, we had a lovely meal there. We sta outside canalside, with great wine and good food. I learned of the restaurant on this site and I recommend it. We also ate at Alla Madonna, which is on a small side street 1 block from the Rialto bridge. They are known for their fish/seafood, and again, our meal there was o.k. We had lunch one day at Trattoria San Trovaso in Dorseduro. The food was pretty good, but the service... oh well, we weren't in a hurry! There was 1 restaurant in Dorsoduro we passed and wanted to go, but didn't get the chance. Its call Al Gondolieri, at Dorsoduro 366, San Vio. It looked really nice and specializes in meat. If you go there, please let me know how it was. Have a great trip!