Pre-Romanesque architecture in Asturias
 

I am planning our trip to northern Spain next May and have read a lot on Pre-Romanesque architecture in Asturias, a fascinating subject.

A few of the architectural sites such as CÁMARA SANTA DE OVIEDO have fixed visiting hours.

More often the instructions are”make appointment by telephone”, “ask permission of the resident priest” or “pick up the key at the village store”.

Is it feasible to try touring the interior of these sites or just stick with the few that have defined visiting hours?

You'll find a number of pre-Romanesque sites closed unless you follow the instructions, but we have been lucky enough to be able to gain access to a few sites, some are open year around, others you can only see from the outside unless you make an appointment.

"Picking up the key at the village store" is not all that unusual, and can often be done on the same day. Sometimes it's all in the luck of the draw. The area around Oviedo has a number of interesting sites.

It depends on where you are getting your information from. I live right next to a Romanesque church. I can get 100s ringing at the front door asking for the key to the church. I do not have it. Some visitors contest that their guidebook says I have the key! So do not trust everything you read. I do know some other churches in my area where you can see inside. However you should be aware that the key holder may have other things to do, like tending to their land or meals or ……!!!!
You can always ask the local tourist office, town hall or if you are staying in a Casa Rural the owners may know of how to see inside any building.
So patience is a virtue on this and have some ideas, but never plan to visit what you want to.

Robert, are there any pre-Romanesque sites that you are particularly fond of? I found a great internet site: http://www.turismo-prerromanico.es/a.../DirIngles.htm which lists all of the major Visigothic, Pre-Romanesque, Romanesque, and Mozarabic architectural sites in Spain. I am interested in all these periods but with only 2 weeks in northern Spain I will need to make some difficult decisions.

ribeirasacra, if a lost and confused American shows up at your door meekly asking for key it will probably be me! Especially if you notice a Spanish fellow impatiently waiting in the car, my traveling companion.

We liked Santa María del Naranco, overlooking Ovideo, great views on a nice day. And San Salvador de Valdediós (Villaviciosa) was very interesting, even if we had to wait around for an hour or so for the tour to begin. San Pedroi in Villanueva de Cangas was also worth a visit. There were several others, but I'll have to review our notes, which takes time.

http://www.valderredible.eu/arte/romanico.html
http://www.valderredible.eu/arte/iglesiasrupestres.html

going there this long weekend in Spain (days off 7 and 8), together with http://www.1romanico.com/004/rutases.asp, the romanesque routes in Spain (pre-romanesque churches are scarce).

http://www.vivirasturias.com/asturia...rerromanico/es, in Spanish, prerromanesque routes in Asturias.

http://www.verdenorte.com/prov/astur..._asturiano.php, as Robert says, the three musts in Oviedo. You can visit them through the Tourism Office. Beautiful, small, overlooking the city, a must see.

Also, as a curiosity, search in Google images for "San Miguel de Arretxinaga", in the Basque Country. When I was a child, you had to ask for the key at the farm next to it. A very peculiar church, originally a pagan site formed by three huge prehistoric rocks.

InMiami I know who you are from your profile photo!
Hopefully we do manage to meet up.

BTW, InMiami, if you´re coming to the Basque area my blog may be of help, http://mugalari.wordpress.com.

Thanks to all for your experienced opinions.

Mikelg, the RUTAS ROMANICAS EN ESPAÑA site is especially helpful because it presents different auto routes that allow visiting pre and Romanesque sites in an organized sequence. Thank you!

Mikelg, how difficult is it to visit the interior of the church on San Juan de Gaztelugatxe? The setting is fantastic!

It opens only on special days, but you can see it from the outside. It´s more a chapel than a church. There´s a small refuge next to it where you can sit down and enjoy the views.

30´drive from Bilbao.

I'm a huge fan of pre-romanesque and romanesque architecture. I've even been to the church next door to Ribeirasacra's house, but he wasn't home! (and the church was closed)

If you are going to be only in Asturias, I think that the "not to be missed" pre-romanesque includes, in Oviedo, San Julian de los Prados(very well preserved and unusual paintings on walls) and the two up on Mt. Naranco (Santa Maria was originally built as a non-religious building, I think it's the only pre-romanesque non-religious building still standing in Asturias, and maybe in all of Spain; San Miguel de Lillo was built as a church). For those sites you can get reliable operating hours at the tourist office -- and BTW, unlike most tourist spots in Spain, the sites on Mt. Naranco are open on Monday.

Outside of Oviedo, I think Santa Cristina de Lena is absolutely beautiful though I was unable to go inside because I was there on a Monday, when it's closed. Here are hours and person to contact, though: 11-1 and 4:30-6:00; closed Monday (have to call Maria at 985-490-525 or 609-942-153). This church is reputed to have 365 corners on the outside, with many of the columns not needed for support, though I haven't counted them.

And I agree with robert that the church at Valdedios is very nice -- the setting in the middle of a meadow is pretty special, and it's in a little valley surrounded by high hills.

I know others have posted lots of helpful links, so this may be overkill, but I like this site: http://www.turismo-prerromanico.es/ (for its information, not for its design, which is confusing and too busy). But there's a good map:
http://www.turismo- prerromanico.es/arterural/mapas/mapaast.htm

I think this sounds like a fabulous trip.