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Old Jan 23rd, 2005, 01:02 PM
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Prague, Vienna & Hungary Trip = Please Help

Looking for information on Prague, Vienna and Hungary. Planning to go in September with Mother, who is 75 and pretty spry. We plan to fly into Prague, spend 3 days, then on to Vienna for 3 days (train??), and Danube water cruise to Budapest. Rent car in Budapest, go north to Miskolc and Eger and then south to Lake Balaton, and spend few days in Budapest before leaving. Looking to spend about 15 days total. Any information on airfare, hotels, transportation and restaurants would be helpful.

Anyone have experience with Air Consolidators.com? Their quote for airfare is about 33% less than major airlines like Delta, CSA or Malev from our town in Ohio. We are hesitant as we don’t have experience. Comments good or bad would be helpful.

Anyone have experience with renting car in Hungary? Are roads OK? These are pretty on the beaten path places we want to visit. We are fluent Hungarian speakers, Mother was born in Miskolc (doesn’t sound too exciting to me, but…). Will we be able to find big American car with automatic not stick shift??

Looking to dine on native, regional food. Mom is terrific cook – paprikash, goulash, strudel, schnitzel, so the bar is set very high to begin. Particularly interested in Jewish sites but sightseeing in general is appreciated.

Looking to spend about $200/night for double room, fine dining, not student/hostel type of trip. Thanks in advance for help! Hope this turns out as well as the Paris & London trip I just completed with family.
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Old Jan 23rd, 2005, 01:06 PM
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When I drove in Hungary in 1975, I was very happy that my car was a Honda Civic, especially when a hay wagon came towards me on what would be considered a road no wider than a lane and a half. The roads were otherwise fine. Don't look for a big American car, it is a hindrance on many European roads.
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Old Jan 23rd, 2005, 02:11 PM
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Hi
I've just booked a return visit to Prague for this April--actually, my friend has booked it. We're booked on Czech Airlines--I flew home on them last time and they were good, they are a partner with Delta. This trip we are booked at the Hotel Adria, which I think meets your price range. Not much on it on this message board, but there are good comments at tripadvisor.com
In Prague for restaurants (our family group included some foodies) we loved Restaurant David, among other places.
From Wittman tours we took a guided tour of the Jewish area, very informative as otherwise it is hard to tell one building from another. Also from Wittman, we took a guided tour of Terezin, which was a daytrip out of town.

I have files on Prague and on Vienna; if you'd like to see them, email me at
[email protected]
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Old Jan 23rd, 2005, 02:12 PM
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Roads in Hungary are pretty good these days. Drove through both Miskolc and Eger with a Ford Focus and never came close to a tight squeeze. Much better than say, Ireland.

Miskolc was a pass through for us. Without meaning to be negative, just know that Miskolc is very industrial, very soviet-block housing. We got lost going through there (a sudden 5 way intersection where the sign makers forgot where we were going) - se we got to see more than we'd planned.

The drive through the Bukk Hills, past Lillafured and on to Eger is very pretty though, and Eger itself is wonderful for a day or two. Eger, I would think, would be reasonable driving distance to Miskolc if you'd prefer to stay in Eger instead.

In Eger, we liked the little 5 room Offi Haz guesthouse - right on the main square and just really cozy. The owners were so helpful with anything we needed. No elevator though, rooms on the 3rd floor(US). We had a double for 56 Euro. http://hungary.egerhotels.com/hoteloffihouse.php


We know of two hotels in Budapest, but don't know what your level of expectations or budget are. Hotel Victoria on the Buda side is recommended a lot here, and we weren't disappointed with it either. Great views, nice owners. www.victoria.hu



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Old Jan 24th, 2005, 08:26 AM
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Clifton, I read your post about your trip to Romania and know that you have spent much time in Hungary as well. Can you share some highlights of what you saw in Budapest? Don't believe I read that you went to Lake Balaton, but if you did, can you share any advice? I have also sent an e-mail to Bela Lukacs, who has been recommended on this site about transportation from Vienna to Budapest and a day trip to Miskolcs. Trying to cram a lot of sightseeing in 15 days. Any must see's or don't waste your time recommendations would be realy helpful. Will check out Hotel Victoria. Thanks!
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Old Jan 24th, 2005, 06:55 PM
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aliska,

I know there are a number of folks who post here who have spent more time in Hungary than we have. We'd love to get back to Budapest soon though.

Just so you know, my wife and I seem to have more fun sometimes just wandering than we do once we get to the place that was listed in the travel guide. I think the favorites for us were Matyas church, walking in Varosliget (the city park), starting at Heros Square and walking the streets in Pest at night near the Deak Ter back towards Vaci Utca.
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Old Jan 24th, 2005, 06:57 PM
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Oh, and you're right. We didn't get to Lake Balaton. We stayed east of Budapest, and really have only spent time in the north east portion of Hungary so far. I'm dying to visit Sopron on the Austria border on the next trip though, and Pecs to the south.
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Old Jan 24th, 2005, 09:56 PM
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Hello aliska,

We were in Hungary with my Hungarian-speaking mother and Hungarian-speaking cousins in September 2004.

You are welcome to read my travel journal at:

http://judy.squarespace.com/trip-summary/

In addition to Budapest, we went to Eger, Szeged, Szentendre, Zirc, Veszprem, Balatonfured, Fertod, Sopron, Pannonhalma, Gyor and Tihany.

We based ourselves near Balatonfured and, in 4 day trips from there, saw the places in Trans-Danubia that I've mentioned.

We found it magical. Szeged was a delightful city, but I think it would be too far out of the way for the rest of your itinerary.

I have not yet typed into my travel journal the accounts of our brief visits to Vienna and Prague after Hungary.

We took the hydrofoil from Budapest to Vienna, and I do not recommend it. It sits low in the water, and water splashes over the windows. Consequently the view is partially obscured. And, quite frankly, even when we did see the view, there was not that much to see. The banks of the Danube were very wooded, which was nice for the first while, but then got monotonous. For much of the voyage, one could not see beyond the wooded banks. Somehow I had had visions of something like the Rhine, a river flanked by a hillside or hillsides, but for substantial portions of the voyage that was not the case. If I had it to do over again, I would travel between Budapest and Vienna by train.

Actually, come to think of it, if you are going to be travelling from Vienna to Budapest, and then later visiting the Balaton, that doesn't make sense. If you were to drive from Vienna, through Trans-Danubia towards Budapest, you would be able to see all of those towns north of the Balaton <b>en route</b> to Budapest. It would be more efficient, IMO.

(Our itinerary was not entirely efficient, because we were several members of an extended family who needed to accommodate each other and compromise.)

Someone did e-mail me and ask me detailed questions about the train journey from Vienna to Prague. I figured it was just as easy to complete that portion of my travel journal and direct the person to the website as it was to respond to his questions by e-mail. So, if you skip ahead to the entry entitled, &quot;Train to Prague,&quot; you will find a detailed account.

We found 2nd class to be adequate, but I think your mother would be more comfortable if you travelled 1st class.

Fodor's has good itineraries of Prague and Vienna in the Destinations section of its website. At least you can use them as a starting point for your research. Actually we followed the one for Prague very successfully. It did involve a great deal of walking, however. Even if your mother is in good shape, she may prefer to avail herself of Prague's excellent public transportation here and there.

Fodor's entry for Budapest mystifies me. It describes Old Buda, which I don't think is the part of the city that a first timer should concentrate on. The &quot;must see&quot; things in Budapest, in my opinion, were:

On the Buda side : the Royal Palace and the M&aacute;ty&aacute;s Templom during the day and the view from the Citadel at night

On the Pest side : Szent Istv&aacute;n Bazilika and the Houses of Parliament. The interior of the parliament building is splendid! Well worth the tour. But the sale of tickets for the tours of the Houses of Parliament was a bit chaotic. Had it not been for my Hungarian-speaking -- and assertive -- mother, arriving a mere half hour before the tour was due to begin would not have been enough.

Being a senior citizen, your mother will not need to pay a cent to use Budapest's estimable public transporation system.

The Hungarian cuisine at M&aacute;ty&aacute;s Pince was excellent, but expensive.

We had the most divine fish soup at a modest little restaurant in Gyor and fabulous pork knuckle and bean soup at Dobos Restaurant in Csopak, near Balatonfured, and again at a Slovak pub in Matraszentimre, on the way back to Budapest from Eger.

At Ruszwurm, which was located at Szenth&aacute;roms&aacute;g &uacute;t 7, near M&aacute;ty&aacute;s Templom, we had kremes pite that was to die for. Another place that serves wonderful pastry is Gerbeaud at Vorosmarty t&eacute;r in Pest.

We also had excellent kremes pite at a sidewalk cafe in Eger, but I can't remember the name of the place.

Going back to my travel journal, you do have to wade through a bunch of my family stuff in order to sift out the travel information. However, it includes some Jewish family history, so that possibly may be of some interest to you. (I may be jumping to conclusions about that, but you did express an interest in Jewish sites.)

We found out too late, basically on the eve of our departure from Budapest, that the city has a magnificent synagogue. Unfortunately we did not see the inside of it. My mom apparently knew about its existence, but she didn't mention it. She evidently had such sad memories associated with the neighbourhood that immediately surrounded it that she didn't feel like walking through those streets.

Anyway, hope that helps.

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Old Jan 24th, 2005, 10:44 PM
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You don't have to go to Lake Balaton-just eat the fish-Balaton fish-which is found on the menu of most good restaurants-and it is excellent.

As far as I'm concerned, there's just Budapest. Locals refer to the rest of the country as &quot;the provinces.&quot; Everything worth seeing or doing is there. And without question, it is one of the world's great cities-a true gem. Don't know how I missed it all these years of traveling around the world, but I just got back from there in November, and was completely won over-and would now like to visit in springtime.

Stayed at the Budapest Marriott-had a jaw-dropping view from my room's balcony across the Danube over to the Royal Palace, Fisherman's Bastion and Gellert Hill-all lit up golden at night. Fabulous-and the hotel COULD NOT be better located-2 minutes from the vaci utca (the pedestrian shopping area)-a variety of good restaurants and a great gourmet food shop across the way-I needed no tourist travel pass for the subway and buses-because I could walk most everywhere-even the Opera House was only about a 15 min. walk. And oh, that pastry bar they set out each day in the lobby! And that incredible breakfast buffet each morning! Really first-rate.

And where have you stayed where you did not need any sort of an adapter converter? The Marriott had an entire power strip installed on the wall that had each different plug one would need from all over the world! You could just plug your appliance in and that was it! Have never seen that before or since in any hotel I've stayed in.

I could go on and on about the Marriott-great staff-I'd stay nowhere else in Budapest- it has it all-right smack on the Danube promenade.

And has anyone mentioned Hungarian wines? I went to a wine-tasting at a 700 year old cellar down underneath the Buda Hilton-it was a one-of-a kind experience. I tried 6 or 7 different wines, merlots, sauvignon blanc, Tokais-all of them good, a couple of them great. The entire cost for the tasting came to US6 (that was the only cheap thing in Budapest, however!) -it's quite an interesting thing to do while in Budapest. The wine tasting was literally in an old dungeon-with candles and a couple of small tables-it was romantic and a little spooky both at once-perfect!

One of the highlights of my trip was a free Sunday evening organ concert at St. Matyas Templom (St. Mathias Church) located adjacent to the Buda Hilton. The interior of this cathedral is stunning, but that concert-and the Liszt piece (a native son) is not to be missed (I believe they have them most Sunday evenings, starting at 7pm).

There's so much to say and so much to do in Budapest-the Opera House, the music, the incredible Parliament building with the Hungarian crown jewels, the Castle District, the spas (and I don't mean Gellert spa either-yuck!). The many great kaffehaz in the city-(my favorites-Ruszwurm on Castle Hill and Angelika's with its stained glass).

My recommendation for best restaurant goes to Arany Kaviar, which is located down to the right of the Buda Hilton, through the old Vienna Gate, and keep on the right hand side until you see the sign. Although it specializes in caviar and other Russian dishes, it is 100 percent Hungarian owned and operated- a family business, and has a heavy emphasis on fish dishes-which is why it was recommended to me, since I don't eat meat. Arany is a lovely, cozy, romantic restaurant-and was hands down the best meal I had in Budapest. I found out recently that this restaurant is quite well-known, and that many celebs frequent it when they are in town. I loved it-and the very dashing Hungarian owner!

These are a few things I did-enjoy Budapest- I surely did!
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Old Jan 24th, 2005, 11:22 PM
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P.S. The name of the Great Synagogue in Budapest is Dohany Synagogue or &quot;Tabac Schul&quot; named after the street, which apparently means tobacco. It is gigantic-one of the largest in the world. I didn't go in, but did go past it. Seeing this would of course be on your Budapest itinerary.
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Old Jan 25th, 2005, 07:36 AM
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&gt;&gt;&gt;As far as I'm concerned, there's just Budapest. Locals refer to the rest of the country as &quot;the provinces.&quot; Everything worth seeing or doing is there.&lt;&lt;&lt;

Well, I don't know about that.

The best meals I had in Hungary were in Gyor, Csopak and Matraszentimre.

My favourite church in Hungary was the Benedictine Abbey at Pannonhalma, followed by the Franciscan Church in the &quot;Old Town&quot; district of Szeged.

Oh yes, aliska, I forgot to mention Margaret Island in Budapest. That is a must see for sure. We walked around it, but you can also rent a golf cart to get around it if you like.
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Old Jan 25th, 2005, 08:59 AM
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Spygirl:
Well, many of the &quot;Budapestians&quot; refer to the rest of the country as the &quot;countryside&quot;.
That's why the rest of the country refers to them as those stuck-up people in the capital. Yes, there is a lot of rivalry going on.
The government is fairly centralized, and when there is a question of financing infrastucture, arts, etc, many times the capital wins out.
But if the people of Buda and Pest tell you that there isn't anything to see outside the capital, perhaps you shouldn't believe them...
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Old Jan 25th, 2005, 09:38 AM
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Oh no lindi- I DO believe them! And I did go to bits outside Budapest, Szentendre and the like, down river to some towns, and believed them even more after that! (smile-and I'm not kidding!)

All the art, architecture, music, interesting and beautiful Serbian churches, cool and hip bar/restaurant scene (and they have MANY cool hip bars and clubs in Budapest, some centered around the stunning St. Istvan's Bazilika) and of course, the lovely tree-lined Andrassy Utca, the fin de siecle elegance-which compares very favorably with Berlin's Ku-damm. In my book, all you need to know about Hungary is right here.

P.S. And in terms of sophisticated world-class cooking-George Lang and Gundel's has got nothing on the owner of Arany Kaviar Etterem!
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Old Jan 26th, 2005, 05:58 PM
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Judy, I am going to print your travel post on your trip and read it this weekend. I am just so sorry my father is not alive to go with his. He grew up in Transylvania and was hidden with Raoul Wallenberg in the Swedish Embassy during WWII. He did return to Hungary about 10 years ago. This is very much going to be a &quot;Roots&quot; trip. I have heard from Bela Lukacs, who has been mentioned on this site and I think we will make arragements for him to drive us on a day trip to Eger and Mishkolc. Lake Balaton sounds very restful and relaxing and we do want to do some of the thermal baths. Bela has said that he will pick us up in Vienna by car and can make arrangements for a stay in Lake Balaton.

The Marriott sounds wonderful, Spygirl. The pastry assortment in the afternoon sounds reason enough for me! As a dear little Magyar girl, I grew up on all sorts of yummy delicacies and I intend to diet and lose a few pounds so I can eat my way through Vienna (schlag - yum, yum) and Hungary. Seeing as how it will be early Fall, I hope we will get to some wineries. Spygirl, I guess we will have to judge the provinces for ourselves.I will certainly keep the hotel and restaurant recommendations in mind, Thanks everyone!
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Old Jan 28th, 2005, 10:36 AM
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The Budapest Marriott IS wonderful, Aliska, and very much integrated into the city, unlike some of the other 5 stars I visited along the Promenade (the Four Seasons Gresham Palace comes to mind-quite sterile and impersonal).

And after your trip through the provinces, do come back and tell us if there is something there besides Budapest-(smile) Enjoy your trip!
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Old Jan 28th, 2005, 01:31 PM
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We're considering flying into and out of Budapest for our Budapest-Eisenstadt-Vienna-Salzburg-Prague trip. Getting back to Budapest from Prague is the issue: should we go overnight and sleep in couchettes, or is the trip so beautiful we'd want to go during the daytime and enjoy the sights?
Thanks in advance for your responses.
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Old Jan 28th, 2005, 02:30 PM
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Spygirl, I'm with you on all those beautiful and interesting parts of Budapest, pretty much all the place's you listed.

I will say though that if you get back, unless you're usually drawn just to the main cities, that you might like Eger quite a bit, if just for a short period. I have a few photos, if you haven't seen Eger before. The Baroque Minorite church is really beautiful as are some of the others there.

http://travelisfatal.com/hu/Eger
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Old Jan 28th, 2005, 03:26 PM
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In Budapest you should definitely include the Dohany Synagogue. We are not big opera fans but really enjoyed a tour of the Opera House, a beautiful building.

We had good lunches at Bagolyvar (next to and reportedly under the same ownership as Gundel's and much less expensive-- near Hero's Square) and Muszeum Kavenhaus--near the National Museum-- each about $30 for two, including tip.

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Old Jan 28th, 2005, 07:57 PM
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Hi Clifton-thanks, I may just look up your pictures (not something I normally do, btw!)-I suppose it's possible I could be persuaded that there's life outside Budapest and a day trip to Eger might not be half bad. However, I feel that I barely scratched the surface of Budapest after 4 days, so I've lots to do there on a return visit before I venture forth to the countryside!

Did you perchance try a bit of Hungary's national drink, Unicom? I brought a small bottle back, with the Unicom drinking glasses-I must say, it's really not half as &quot;medicinal&quot; as I thought it would taste-FAR better tasting than Jaegermeister, I might add!

DCdee-Bagolyvar- I do like those Hungarian words! I walked around Budapest saying the name of this restaurant (which means Owl Castle, as I'm sure you know). I agree, the lunch was pretty good, (the poppy seed cake was great!) I've heard less enthusiastic reports on dinner, however. It's a less expensive alternative to the near-by Gundel's, both of which are in fact owned by George Lang. You have to really want to go there, as it is a bit out of the way, located way up in the northern part of Pest).
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Old Jan 28th, 2005, 08:29 PM
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You know, I didn't try Unicom. For some reason, some description I'd read somewhere of it just put it right off my list. I know I shouldn't do that, listen to people, but there it is. Next time for sure.

And there will be a next time, because we only spent 4 days too. We did a big circle that started and ended in Budapest, but most of that circle was driving around in Romania. Now Tuica, the Romanian drink, that'll take the rust right off a nail (but in a good way, if there is a good way). Highly distilled plum brandy. Burns all the way down, but sort of smooth at the same time. Weird. I much preferred the Eger Bikaver wine (aka Bulls Blood). A bit like a Chianti, very full red, but different. Yum.
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