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Utterly Umbria...feedback on my itinerary for a week in Spello please!!

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Utterly Umbria...feedback on my itinerary for a week in Spello please!!

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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 03:07 AM
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Utterly Umbria...feedback on my itinerary for a week in Spello please!!

We'll be heading back to Italy on September 20..be still my heart!! This will be our fourth trip and on this one we are taking it easy and slowing down. We have an apartment in Spello for a week and an apartment in Rome for a week. I would appreciate input on my current plans for our week in Spello. I don't want a race to "see" all the towns...I want time to sit, to sip and to savour. Some of the days can be switched if it's advantageous....best for Sunday, market day, etc?

I welcome any recommendations or tips you have have...especially help with parking!

After overnighting in Orvieto:

Day 1, Saturday: Pick up rental first thing - visit Civita di Bagnoregio before heading to Spello....must arrive in Spello by 4 pm. Missed Civita on a previous trip and would like to visit on this one. Would love to stop in Todi but feel it may be too rushed. Thoughts?

Day 2, Sunday: Piano Grande loop, visit Norcia and Norcineria Ercole Ulivucci for salami... lunch in Taverna Castelluccio, back to Spello via Visso - with lots of goodies in hand! This will be our longest drive of the week.

Day 3, Monday: Perugia (thinking of taking the train so we don't have hassles with traffic or parking and giving the driver a break)

Day 4, Tuesday: Spoleto - maybe stop in Trevi on the way back if time permits, perhaps dinner in Trevi?

Day 5, Wednesday: Simply Spello, This is market day in Spello. We'll just spend the day exploring the nooks and crannies of this Umbrian village....pick up lunch from the market, enjoy some vino at an outdoor cafe and just savour the fact we're in Italy.

Day 6, Thursday: Bevagna and Montefalco, ending in Foligno around 5 pm for the Primi d'Italia pasta festival.

Day 7, Friday: ? Depending on the weeks weather this could be a catch-up day...if the stars were aligned for the week perhaps Todi and Monte Castello di Vibio - maybe a return to Assisi (we didn't forget about Assisi - visited on a previous trip) Also thought about Gubbio - not sure about the drive, however.

Day 8, Saturday: Drop rental in Foligno, train to Rome

Thoughts please...
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 03:17 AM
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travelfan1, we are also spending a week in Spello but a few weeks after you. Our plans for daytrips are very similar to yours so I am anxious to hear what others recommend and what you finally decide to do. I hope you'll consider reporting back after your trip.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 03:23 AM
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I don't have suggestions for you but we are also considering a stay in Umbria in early October so will watch the replies to your question.
Where are you staying in Orvieto the first night?
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 03:33 AM
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Can't really help you with your specific question as I don't drive on holiday ( too stressful and expensive for me as a solo traveller) but would just like to say that I had a wonderful 10 days in Umbria recently based in Perugia. Apart from exploring Perugia (so much to see, especially art), I got the bus to Assisi (very touristy as I expected), Gubbio ( no big names, no tour buses, no tourist tat) which was an unspoilt mediaeval hill-town, and Todi which although small, is perfectly-formed. I also went by train to Spello, Spoleto, and Orvieto. There are magnificent churches full of art everywhere.
Obviously I couldn't get to the off-the-beaten-track places you mention but there was more than enough to see in the time I had.
I don't think you can go wrong really.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 05:23 AM
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I want to follow the discussion too! I have 3 nights in Perugia, 3 nights in Spello, and 2 in Orvieto.

I know precisely what you mean about a race to see towns vrs. Sitting ans sipping. We now prefer that style as well.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 05:56 AM
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If you click on "DRJ" I hope you will find some recommendations for dining in this part of Umbria as I have spent several weeks in the area.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 08:28 AM
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 09:04 AM
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<i>Please see my comments below:</i>


Day 1, Saturday: Pick up rental first thing - visit Civita di Bagnoregio before heading to Spello....must arrive in Spello by 4 pm. Missed Civita on a previous trip and would like to visit on this one. Would love to stop in Todi but feel it may be too rushed. Thoughts? <i>With a car, so long as you leave early, I believe you can get to Civita di Bagnoregio with plenty of time to get to your hotel by 4. Hub and I visited Orvieto in the a.m. and planned to take a bus to Civita di Bagnoregio but were too tired. You could also call your Spello hotel to let them know if you were running late??</i>

Day 2, Sunday: Piano Grande loop, visit Norcia and Norcineria Ercole Ulivucci for salami... lunch in Taverna Castelluccio, back to Spello via Visso - with lots of goodies in hand! This will be our longest drive of the week. <i>No experience here.</i>

Day 3, Monday: Perugia (thinking of taking the train so we don't have hassles with traffic or parking and giving the driver a break) <i>If you take a bus, it's station is more convenient to the public escalator that goes up to the old area. It is interesting to pass through layers of the city. There are as well, busses at the train station that go to the Place d'Italia (my notes say the G2 bus but do confirm). If money is no issue, take a taxi to the top and then work your way back down to the Place d'Italia. Busses and taxis abound there.</i>

Day 4, Tuesday: Spoleto - maybe stop in Trevi on the way back if time permits, perhaps dinner in Trevi? <i>We based in Spoleto and it has some wonderful things to see. The aquaduct, Duomo, market square at the top and lots at the lower level as well. Spoleto has enough for more than a day, so do start early and at the top!</i>

Day 5, Wednesday: Simply Spello, This is market day in Spello. We'll just spend the day exploring the nooks and crannies of this Umbrian village....pick up lunch from the market, enjoy some vino at an outdoor cafe and just savour the fact we're in Italy. <i>You may have time for Trevi if you miss it on Spoleto day.</i>

Day 6, Thursday: Bevagna and Montefalco, ending in Foligno around 5 pm for the Primi d'Italia pasta festival. <i>Can't help here except that we unexpectedly had an hour in Foligno and very much enjoyed its "vibe". The main square is beautiful and we happened upon an art exhibit near the train station.</i>

<i>I'm with you in spirit! How nice that you are returning in an unhurried way. A real luxury.</i>
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 09:07 AM
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Make that "its station", not "it's"!
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 01:01 PM
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Vttraveler...this time around we're staying at the Hotel Duomo.

Thank you all for your responses so far.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 01:15 PM
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Hmmm...this plan calls for Perugia on Monday - which is when most of the museums are closed, including the interesting looking Rocca Paolina. May have to rethink this....
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 01:23 PM
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Your plans sound great. We spent a week in Umbria last September, visiting many of the same places you are considering. Do not miss Trevi, that is where we were based and it is truly wonderful. Very small and quaint, just what we wanted. The views are unbelievable. The Olive Oil Museum is a real treasure. Several very good places to eat, also. If you are into Italian ceramics, Deruta is the place. Market day there is Tuesday, it is Friday in Trevi.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 03:13 PM
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Consider making some time for provisioning on the day of your arrival in Spello. We have found it helps to get groceries on that Saturday as Sunday and Monday am can find many stores closed. In other words, save some energy for your arrival.

We/I like to visit the wineries between Spello and Montefalco--there are many. Arnaldo Caprai has a very nice tasting room with first class italian hospitality--Scacciadiavoli is another favorite and there is a good enoteca in Spello. I always suggest the restaurant Al'Chemista in Montefalco.

We will be in the area also--Can you tell us more about Foligno's "Primi d'Italia's Pasta Festa" ? Is it the one scheduled for 9/27 to 9/30 (Thur-Sun)?

Your schedule looks fine--we've driven the Piano Grande Loop (and will again) a couple of times but in reverse of your description--something about lentils and pork in Norcia! Love it! If you are a fan of ceramics, don't miss Deruta Alto.
Enjoy--Paul
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 03:25 PM
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Macanimals - Yes indeed, it is the one scheduled for that Thursday through Sunday and since we're there I thought it might be something to experience. I'm opting for the first night because I was told the weekend will bring bigger crowds. Thanks for the tip regarding Arnaldo Caprai...may very well do their tour/tasting - with the Umbrian cheese and cold cuts of course!
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 05:24 PM
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My husband loves to drive, so we have see a lot of Umbria by car. Although it's all beautiful, we especially enjoyed the scenery along the road between Spoleto and Acquasparta (SS418), all the roads between Bevagna and Spoleto, and the road between Gubbio and Perugia (SS298). If the weather's exceptional, consider going to Lake Trasimeno and driving part of the shoreline -OR- drive toward Terni and see the Marmore Falls.

http://www.bellaumbria.net/en/nature...marmore-falls/

If you go to Todi, look for the parking lot at the bottom of the town and farthest from E45. Ride the funicular from there to the top of the town. There are beautiful views toward Bastardo from the terrace of Ristorante Umbria located off the main piazza. Good food too. We found the shopping options in Todi to be a bit more sophisticated, higher quality, etc.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dalem/22993965/

If you go to Gubbio, there is a parking lot at the bottom of the town that is easy to find if you follow the signs for the Roman Theater. There are some beautiful ceramics shops. Don't forget to ride the Bucket of Bolts to the top of the town.

http://www.annaghvarn.plus.com/Italy...8/imgp0094.jpg
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 05:53 PM
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Travelfan,

Your plans sound wonderfulderful! I stayed in Spello on my last trip and loved it. Especially liked Il Mulino restaurant across from Palazzo Bocci,excellent. Also loved the bar/gellateria up the street that has back garden with gorgeous views.

Gubbio is not a long drive and definitely worth visiting. Very interesting town.

I also really liked Todi. Very steep,very special.

Was disappointed inthe ceramics inDeruta, but our mistake was in shopping in the lower town!

Besure to try Sagrantino di Montefalco, an amazing red.

Do go into the churchrd andsmall museums in all the above. There is some beautiful and mousart
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 05:54 PM
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Argh! Hardto type on touch screen.

I wish i was going! Buon viaggio
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 08:26 PM
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Travel fan, from the info I have, lonely planet guide, the museums are open on Mondays, except the Galleria Nazionale del Umbria is closed only the first Monday of the month.

We will be there the same Monday, also Tuesday, before we move on to Spoleto.

Jean, thanks for the driving tips. My husband also likes to drive, and I have been pondering which would be the most scenic roads/towns to tour. Going to cut and paste your suggestions into my itinerary.

Dayle, maybe I am dense, but I can't for the life of me figure out what is mousart?

Macanimals, please share what is a comfortable driving time for the Piano Grande loop? I am hoping we can do a day drive to Ascoli Piceno by way of a detour, north from Spoleto to Visso and Casteluccio, then south towards Norcia to get onto the east west highway to Ascoli. Does this sound like too much of a drive for one day?
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Old Aug 3rd, 2012, 09:06 AM
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Wow! There is so much great information being exchanged here. I love the tips like where to park - always an issue - and driving routes. I'm madly taking notes. Thank you to all.

We're also staying in Spello for a week. Anyone with some good restaurant recommendations? Also, I hear there are some hikes that start in Spello. Can anyone provide information about those?

Thanks, TravelFan, for starting this thread.
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Old Aug 3rd, 2012, 09:12 AM
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Possibly staying in that region next spring, too. Eager to hear what you all have to say!
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